Antonio Alessandria Parfums Nacre Blanche Review (Antonio Alessandria) + Crepuscular Draw

April 23, 2020April 24, 2020

Danae And The Shower Of Gold by Louis Francois Comerre

I will wade out

till my thighs are steeped in burn-

ing flowers

I will take the sun in my mouth

and leap into the ripe air

Alive

with closed eyes

to dash against darkness

in the sleeping curves of my

body

Shall enter fingers of smooth mastery

with chasteness of sea-girls

Will I complete the mystery

of my flesh

I will rise

After a thousand years

lipping

flowers

And set my teeth in the silver of the moon

e.e. cummings, “Crepescule”

Antonio Alessandria, photo via Antonio Alessandria in Paris awhile back (Ermano Picco)

One of perfumery’s great storytellers, Antonio Alessandria has taken us on a wander through a hot Sicilian summer with Fara, past the procession of Sant’Agata in Dies Aurorae, and into the Prince’s study in Gattopardo.

Photo via Apnea Images

2014’s Nacre Blanche raises a curtain on an scene that seems drawn from a ballet or opera. In the fanciful way in which it unfolds, there is a touch a meta-theatricality, of a perfume that slyly whispers, “watch and wait.”

“The light of the moon, white as a pearl enters the window and through a mirror illuminates the skin of a young woman, white and transparent as alabaster. The intense fragrance of the night blooming tuberose, drifting from the garden, merges with the scent of a private chamber.”

Nacre Blanche invites us into her bedchamber, to intimate moments spied upon. And she knows she is the object of regard. Early on she is remote, the touch of cool, creamy woods as she breathes her name alone to the flowers aglow at her window. But get closer, and Nacre Blanche slowly transforms into a tuberose kitten, claws slashing into leather and she kneads and retracts. Closer still, she lolls, a creamy vanilla odalisque bathed in moonlight.

Moon by Alphonse Mucha

Nacre Blanche begins deceptively genteel, with a fruity spray of tart, bitter orange, some vanilla wafer and warm slivers of sandalwood. I almost expect it to ask me to pour the tea. But this quiet elegance does not last long. A fascinating plastic flower note comes in – the smell of the fake pink hydrangeas in a vase – that I sometimes get from tuberose, which adds a surreal touch. The disheveled, lactonic sensuality that I expect from tuberose is absent at this stage, as Nacre Blanche flirts and retreats. The creaminess is there, but without its usual indolic purr, and the flower seems greener, almost unopened.

Lois Collier photo for The Movie The Cat Creeps

But as it warms on the skin, Nacre Blanche’s purr turns guttural, like Lois Collier stalking her man prey in the 1946 movie The Cat Creeps. The tuberose begins to bloom, wrapped in smooth glove leather. The citrus fruit hangs in the background as if waiting, as the thick white flower and leather merge into the bodily redolence of slept-in sheets and licked skin. There is some spice now; the soapy herbal zip of coriander adds a bubble bath note, and I pick up some banana sweetness from ylang.

Photo by Liz Collins for Numéro France, April 2012

As things settle down, benzoin and vanilla, which have been slowly rising, take over. They accentuate the creaminess of the lush flowers, drawing them alternately into comforting sleepiness and naughtiness. Nacre Blanche, eyes closing against the wee hours, turns on her silken pillows as sandalwood reappears, soothing and edgeless. The night breeze stirs, and jasmine caresses her floral sisters.

Luminously lovely, Nacre Blanche echoes for several hours before fading into the night. Sensual, elegant, and just a little badly behaved, this is a scent for dreaming of rogues rather than princes by maidens who hardly need rescuing.

Notes: Bergamot, grapefruit, tangerine, petitgrain, coriander, tuberose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, osmanthus, benzoin, vanilla, leather, patchouli, sandalwood, musk.

Editor’s Note: Antonio Alessandria is the fourth perfumer to compose a celebratory CaFleurebon 10^th year Anniversary fragrance Rusty Vibes… (also inspired by a photograph by Alex C. Musgrave and we will be featuring it very soon)-Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

Disclaimer: Sample of Antonio Alessandria Nacre Blanche kindly provided by Antonio Alessandria. My opinions are my own.

Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor

Antonio Alessandria Nacre Blanche courtesy of Antonio

Thanks to the generosity of Antonio Alessandria, we have a 10 ml bottle of Nacre Blanche for one registered reader in the USA, Canada or EU. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what strikes you about Nacre Blanche based on Lauryn’s review, where you live and which niche boutique you would like to see carry Antonio Alessandria Parfums. Draw closes 4/26/2020.

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