Sant’Agata procession, photo by Guiseppe Russo

There are few perfumers whose work I look forward to with more anticipation. At Pitti Fragranze, one of our best fragrance storytellers, Antonio Alessandria, introduced me to his newest creation, Dies Aurorae. His carefully woven compositions speak to a vividly recalled childhood with a specificity few others match, and he has a genuine talent for making his memories accessible. Sample his refreshing Fara, and you could be standing in a hot Sicilian square in summer, the lemony-herbal drink that inspires it pouring down your parched throat. Or wander through his recreation of Lampedusa’s great novel Il Gattopardo and find yourself in the Prince’s study or at the table of a sumptuous party. With his newest perfume, Dies Aurorae, Alessandria escorts you down the aisles of the cathedral for the feast of the Sant’Agata, patron saint of his childhood home, Catania, your hand held by the little boy on whom the event made such a profound impression.

Antonio Alessandria

Dies Aurorae is “the olfactory tale of the emotions and memories of a little boy of around ten years who attends for the first time, along with his father, this ceremony. From the very early hours of the day, people crowd in front of the doors of the cathedral. As soon as the doors open, devotees make their way speedily down the aisle of the cathedral to secure their place as close as possible to the resting place of Sant’Agata.” The celebrations begin with a morning mass, the messa dell’aurora.

Sant’Agata by Correggio (1489-1534)

This is a woody, incense gourmand, balancing churchy smells with nutty and mellifluous sweets. Alessandria is masterful at delineating notes and extending them while mixing in other aromas. “At first, I make a selection of raw materials, chosen for their evocative power and to represent my story in terms of olfactory emotions. I then try to assemble them in a formula, taking into account their intensity and long-lastingness. When the foundation is built, I add other notes that are not perceptible, but that help the structure.”

Olivette and Torrone, photo by Antonio Alessandria

The procession begins with an intense, enveloping cloud of dark, wildflower honey, caramel and smoky incense all swirling together with the warm smell of beeswax. Nuts begin to dot the fragrance, suggesting the traditional sweets of olivette and torrone that that Antonio carried in his pocket as a boy during the service. He prepared some of these sweets for Pitti Fragranze (he’s a talented candy maker, too), and I can attest that their fragrance is alive in Dies Aurorae. Hazelnut dominates at first, with its praline aroma, followed by the marzipan smell of almond and, a little later, the pale green crunch of pistachio. Their nuttiness marries well with milky tonka and vanilla that make their way into Dies Aurorae’s middle section unobtrusively.

Fireworks over the Duomo in Catania, photo by Giuseppe Russo

The syrupy richness and thick incense are cut by Alaskan cedarwood, which brings contrapuntal notes of sharpness and savor at just the right moment, keeping the opening from becoming top heavy. This cedar starts out like pencil shavings but gradually deepens into the darker smells of old pews as time travels. The woodiness intensifies with the addition of polished sandalwood, and musk settles in like a veneer of dust. Dies Aurorae is a warming, dense fragrance, with carefully chosen accents that appear like memory imprints at different points. Wearing it is evocative. For a few moments, I can fleetingly hear a distant mass being sung as the weak winter sun creeps through the stained glass of the cathedral.  The bells ring over the town square, and wafts of incense mingle with the sweets of the time and to which Dies Aurorae pays a lovely homage.

Notes: Elemi, almond, hazelnut, pistachio, caramel, honey, incense, beeswax, cedarwood, patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla, tonka bean, musky notes.

Disclaimer: Sample of Dies Aurorae kindly provided by Antonio Alessandria. My opinions are my own.

Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor

Antonio Alessandria Dies Aurorae photo by Ermano Picco

Dies Aurorae will be available as an EDP in 50 and 100 ml bottles at the end of the month through Antonio Alessandria. However, thanks to Antonio’s generosity, we have a one 50 ml bottle for a registered reader in the U.S., Canada or Europe. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what appeals to you about Dies Aurorae based on Lauryn’s review and where you live. Do you have a favorite Antonio Alessandria perfume?

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