Jessica Stam detail from photo Peter Lindbergh, 2007 apped with Angelos Creations Olfactives Vetiveria Animalis by Michelyn©
There are a handful self-taught perfumers working in the artisan space today who are startlingly gifted. I’m not talking about the many truly creative artists who produce well-crafted, lovely scents but those few with an innate knack for conveying a specific viewpoint in the most spectacular ways. Added to this small group is Angelo Balamis.
Now, let me write with full disclosure: Angelos is a friend of mine. We had met once or twice at shows in Italy, but it wasn’t until he pulled out a set of mods of his initial collection in a hotel garden in Florence a few years ago that he got my full attention. Even though they were works in progress, fragrance after fragrance Blew. Me. Away. I became an immediate fan. The fact that he is one of the loveliest guys in perfumery turned him into a pal. Having said all of this, I wouldn’t blame you for doubting my objectivity. But just smell Angelos Creations Olfactives leathery, 1940s-style chypre Angeliki (a heartfelt testament to his grandmother) or his modern-Rococo jasmine, Yassemi, and you will understand why I think he is one of the most talented noses working today.
Angelos Balamis courtesy of the perfumer
Angelos’ latest fragrance, Vetiveria Animalis, is his first exploration of that moody root. Balamis explains how he approached the fragrance:
“Vetiveria Animalis is a composition that represents vetiver in all forms and facets; vetiver with a soul! Bright yet dark, rooty and earthy, nutty and smoky…. I used several techniques I learned and constantly learning through my olfactory formulation journey, always staying true and loyal to vintage perfumes’ inspiration. Narcissus and several animalics harmoniously blend with rich orris butter and a complex floral bouquet of absolutes and accords and maintain but also amplify all aspects and nuances coming from vetiver oils.”
Josephine Baker circa 1925, Getty Images
If you’re looking for a discreet barbershop vetiver to splash on for the office, this ain’t it. But it you’d like to smell how many saucers high-quality vetivers can spin at once, stand by for the show. This fragrance is a time traveler, moving backwards from modern to vintage as it wears. Starting out as an urban, kelly green vetiver that wouldn’t be out of place on the pocket square of a Soho art dealer, Vetiveria Animalis slowly peels off layers like an enigmatic onion. At first, there’s a lot of assertive, rooty greenness, a whiff of anise or sarsaparilla – almost like root beer. But then Vetiveria Animalis segues and a lot happens. The Java vetiver begins to burn through its bolder brother. Spiritous and medicinal like a shot of Dewar’s and smoky as a pile of damp burning leaves, the Javan vetiver dominates the middle section and dirties things with hits of leather, smoke, dried grass and whiskey.
Dana Andrews in Laura, 1944
Next, Vetiveria Animalis gets a dusting of downtown louche as the animalics start to growl. Civet and castoreum add some worn leather jacket and sweat to the mix. My skin begins to smell like Le Labo Vetiver 46 crashed a fetish club with Vero Kern Onda in tow. But just as things start to turn feral, Balamis adroitly drops in some white florals. The flowers don’t announce themselves, but I know they’ve snuck in; there’s the characteristic soapiness from lily-of-the-valley and a touch of narcissus’ creamy carnality. The florals lend refinement and buoyancy, complemented by bitter green oakmoss. Together, they give Vetiveria Animalis its vintage sheen. Sandalwood emerges, polishing the rougher edges, and there are now quiet dabs of orris and ambrette. Balamis’ inclusion of classic flower absolutes such as jasmine and rose in the heart give Vetiveria Animalis more polish and, along with the animalics, its vintage feel. The fragrance knocks at the door of old Hollywood as sandalwood, rose, civet and smoke all hit the scene and the whole composition deepens and darkens. As the lights dim, there’s Josephine Baker, naughty and lush, making eyes on a tiger skin rug while Dana Andrews appraises the scene coolly and lights a smoke. On a sofa in the background, Eartha Kitt purrs into the ear of James Dean. The air smells of ashes, green leaves, roots and soil and sex. If you like vintage-style perfumes or crave a sensual, unconventional vetiver, this one’s for you.
Notes: Bergamot Calabria, geranium Egypt, vetiveryl acetate, plum, cinnamon, aldehydes, vetiver Haiti, narcissus, carnation, rosa damascena Bulgaria absolute, orris butter, muguet, jasmine Egypt absolute, ambrette seed oil, civet, vetiver Java, agarwood Thailand, oakmoss absolute, ambrarome, white ambergris tincture, patchouli, castoreum, hyraceum absolute, Indian sandalwood, tolu balsam, benzoin Siam, vanilla absolute.
Disclaimer: Sample of Angelos Creations Olfactives kindly sent to me by Angelos Balamis. My opinions, as always, are my own.
—Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor
discovery set includes Angelos Creations Olfactives Vetiveria Animalis
Thanks to the generosity of Angelos Balamis, we have an Angelos Creations Olfactives discovery set of all fourteen fragrances for one registered reader WORLDWIDE. This is a great way to see what I’m talking about here! To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what strikes you about Vetiveria Animalis and where you live. Draw closes 12/23/2022.
Angelos Balamis was Michelyn’s rising star of 2020.
Yassemi was one of Lauryn’s top ten fragrances of 2020.
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