Angelos Creations Olfactives Pnoi, DSH Une Robe de Zibeline + 3 Animalic Perfumes You Should be Wearing Giveaway

Best Animalic perfumes Sultan Pasha L’Heure D’Or, Angelos Creations Olfactives Pnoi and DSH Une Robe de Zibeline

J’s image of Sultan Pasha L’Heure D’Or, Angelos Creations Olfactives Pnoi and DSH Perfumes Une Robe de Zibeline are contemporary animalic perfumes 

Angelos Creations Olfactives PNOI is an animalic perfume

J’s image of Angelos Creations Olfactives Pnoi

Angelos Creations Olfactives Pnoi (Angelos Balamis:) Pnoi is an animalic perfume that captures the exquisite joy of simply being alive. It blossoms with a bouquet of nature; powdery violets bloom from fresh bitter stem like greens splashed with fresh citruses. You really feel Angelos Balamis’s love of classic perfumes from Pnoi; I get swirls of Après L’Ondee and Jolie Madame in the opening, as if you’re opening a perfume collector’s cabinet. Slowly Pnoi becomes deliciously debauched, with a rather sensual powdery leather, purring with Angelos’ own lush Mousse deep Saxe and sensual Animalis recreations. It feels like a flapper dressed in nothing but silk florals wrapped around purring opulent furs. Wicked flashes of dreams and desires emerge from the journey Pnoi takes you on, making this a rather special leather chypre. Pnoi made my Best of Scents 2024 Top 10 for a good reason. You can also read my full review here.

 Notes: Petitgrain Bigaratier, Bergamot Calabria (Crude & FCF), Violet Leaves Absolute Egypt, Neroli Oil Tunisia, Hedione HC, Green Breeze, Orris Butter 15% infused in 2 different Jasmin Grandiflorum Absolutes (India & Egypt), Rosa Damascena Absolute infused in Violet Accord, Muguet Accord, Star Anise, Styrax Resinoid, Hay Absolute, Mimosa Absolute, Carnation Accord, 7 years aged Sandalwood Oil From East India (Santalum Album), Deadwood W. Australia, Castoreum (Reconstruction), Beeswax Absolute, Cistus Labdanum Absolute, Jonquille Accord, Fir Balsam Absolute, Mousse de Saxe, Musc (Synthetic Accord), Animalis, Honey infused Benzoin, Leather Accord, White Birch rectified oil.

Sultan Pasha L’Heure D’Or

Sultan Pasha L’Heure D’Or by J

Sultan Pasha L’Heure D’Or (Sultan Pasha): L’Heure D’Or whispers of rich leathers and delicious florals, with an mysterious incense that thickens up the musky animalic aroma, giving it a full sumptuous body. Softer cleaner floral facets shine some light on this beautiful purring animalic darkness. Absinthe has had its way with the flowers, leading them down a dark purring path to a stunning garden as the sun goes down. The star of this golden hour is an indolic rich jasmine, wrapped in a gown of rose and orris elegance. Sultan Pasha L’Heure D’Or feels velvety soft, with raw leather hidden beneath. A haze of night blooming florals trails it’s decent into this delicious darkness, as Mysore sandalwood picks out some pale flesh beneath the petals. Leather purrs with civet, full of spices blooms then morphs into a warm cloud of smoky florals, furs and creamy delicious woods. Deep rich enveloping animalic purrs of fur feel decadent, as incense smoke and ash darken it, letting delicious sensual leathery nuances melt into a lavish, enveloping tobacco. Dark resins glow like an ember at the end of a flapper cigarette holder, as her arm emerges from a dark dirtied fur that’s seem some floral fun. Notes: Calabrian lemon, Calabrian bergamot, Russian clary sage, absinthe, honeysuckle, jasmine grandiflorum, spices, orris butter, lily of the valley, Bulgarian rose, orange blossom, tobacco, Mysore sandalwood, Swedish castoreum, Iranian saffron, white ambergris, musk, civet, olibanum, cedar, vegetal amber, styrax, Siamese benzoin.

DSH Perfumes Une Robe de Zibeline

J’s image of DSH Perfumes Une Robe de Zibeline

DSH Perfumes Une Robe de Zibeline (Dawn Spencer Hurwitz): Une Robe de Zibeline smoulders with animalic desire, cradling a heady, resinous drink in one hand and a floral-scented cigarette in the other. Its darkly sweet, balsamic notes embody the allure of Tonkin musk, while spiced civet-infused florals simmer enticingly at the edges. The blend of spices and soft, silky blooms captures the intoxicating sensation of luxurious furs. Aldehydes and rose create a fresh, airy dance, making room for the alluring spices of carnation’s desires. Jasmine whispers of wildness, with soft lipstick kisses of orris placed on the waxy rose petals, adding to this rather alluring perfume. Une Robe de Zibeline possesses a sensual waxiness, reminiscent of petals warmed by soft, crushed silks, with playful winks of leather. The plush, furry texture is enhanced by oakmoss, giving a gentle, fuzzy ashiness, intertwined with the prickly warmth of spices that beautifully fold back into the carnation. Its amber base purrs with civet and feels darkly decadent, benzoin and coumarin smooth things out here making Une Robe de Zibeline sumptuous to wear. The musky, rich dry down is utterly intoxicating, as if you’re draped in the memories of a flapper from the Roaring ’20s, slipping into this fur and embracing its storied past. You can feel the spotlight on you as you step onto the stage. Notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Black Pepper, Spices, Aldehydes, Beeswax, Ylang- ylang, Rose, Carnation, Jasmine, Orris, Leather, Tobacco, Patchouli, Oakmoss, Rosewood, Labdanum, Castoreum, Civet, Ambergris, Tolu Balsam, Benzoin, Coumarin.

It feels a little like history is repeating itself, as post pandemic we seem to be entering our own ‘les années folles’ the crazy years. The desire for life, experiences and luxury has returned in abundance. The Roaring 20’s was a period characterized by joy and celebration, providing a much-needed reprieve from the previous hardships. A new generation embraced a lifestyle filled with endless parties, energetic dancing and a wave of romantic encounters that thrived on the rhythm of fresh, wild music, jazz. That is up until economic bubble burst on October 29, 1929. Enjoy yourself now. The Roaring Twenties were the result of a deeper cultural shift and not just a hedonistic reaction to the war and pandemic of the previous decade. One major shift was the evolving role of women, breaking free from the rigid constraints of the Edwardian era and moving towards greater independence. In the United States, 1920 marked the landmark achievement of equal voting rights. Meanwhile, in the United Kingdom, it wasn’t until 1928 that women gained the same rights, six years after their counterparts in Ireland. With the economy booming and spending up, luxury items were lapped up along with all the other fun times.

 

flapper of the roaring 20s

“Where there’s smoke there’s fire” by Russell Patterson. Via wikipedia.

Adorned with feather boas and cascading waist-length beaded necklaces, the Flapper emerged as a symbol of the Roaring 20s era. Cloche hats replaced ornate bonnets and rather than constricting corsets, shorter dresses were du jour allowing for freedom of movement on the dance floor. Flappers smoked in public with elegant long cigarette holders, sipped cocktails and flaunted their style in luxurious fur and feathers, all while dripping in purring perfumes of the times. “It was an age of miracles,” F. Scott Fitzgerald wrote in his essay Echoes of the Jazz Age. “It was an age of art, it was an age of excess.” With the original iconic hot girl perfumes such as Chanel no.5, Molinard Habanita, Guerlain Shalimar and Lanvin Arpège all launching during this decade of decadence. All full of rich florals, with intoxicating animalic furs and lots of musky purring fun. These classics are still around for a reason,  I chose the “Three Animalic Perfumes You Should be Wearing” because they are contemporary perfumes that have a classic Roaring 20s feel to them. Each has a beautiful abundance, feeling opulent and decadent, capturing a love of classic perfumery.

 

Disclosure: Sultan Pasha L’Heure D’Or and DSH Perfumes Une Robe de Zibeline are from J’s personal collection. Angelos Creations Olfactives Pnoi was sent to J for review, thoughts and nose are his own.

J Wearescentient, Senior Editor, artist & olfactive writer.

 

Angelos Creations Olfactives Pnoi

J’s image of Angelos Creations Olfactives Pnoi

Thanks to the generosity of Angelos Balamis, we have a 30ml Bottle of Angelos Creations Olfactives Pnoi for a registered reader in the USA or EU only. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what you enjoyed about j’s Three Animalic Perfumes You Must Be Wearing and where you live. Draw closes1/30/2025.

Check out Contributor Darren Alan’s amazing introduction to Animalic ingredients here! Ida’s review of Un Robe De Zibeline here

Follow us on Instagram: @cafleurebonofficial @angelos_creations_olfactives @sultanpasha78 @dshperfumes @wearescentient 

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33 comments

  • Scentlogue says:

    I loved reading this! The way J describes these perfumes, especially Pnoi and its connection to classic scents, is so vivid it feels like stepping into another era. The nod to the Roaring ’20s is such a great touch too, tying the animalic decadence of these fragrances to the spirit of that time. It’s rare to find reviews that bring both the scent and its story to life like this.

    EU

  • Scentofme says:

    Beautifil selection of animalic perfumes.

    DSH Perfumes Une Robe de Zibeline is a darkly sweet resinous scent infused with a civet note.

    Sultan Pasha L’Heure D’Or is a mysterious musky animalic scent with leather and delicious florals.

    Angelos Creations Pnoi is a very intriguing leather chypre capturing the joy of being alive. I know he is using very high quality raw materials. Greetings from EU and I hope to win Pnoi.

  • Saverioud says:

    I never tried any of Angelos creations but J’s description really made me smell Pnoi. unbelievable.
    The notes list is so long but based on the review I can imagine that this is a Francesca Bianchi- like perfume and this make me want it even more.
    I love the orris butter in association with leathery and animalic notes, usually together they create the smell of warm skin, very sensual and intriguing.
    hope to smell this creation, I’m from Italy.

  • Sybelle16 says:

    Evoking classic perfumes, Olfatives Pnoi’s animalic nature shines a light on nature, with an emphasis on a violet that is powdery, that paired with bitter green notes and a bright citrus note, gives it a certain exuberance. As it evolves, it transforms, the animalic notes and a powdery leather taking it in a new direction—this is a special leather chypre– indulgent and salacious in its nature. A contender for J Top Ten 2024 for a reason.

    L’heure D’Or tantalizing notes of leather, delectable florals, incense and animalist notes combine taking L’Heure to a dark, mysterious avenue that is tempered with the inclusion of softer, cleaner floral notes–Absinthe, rose, a sophisticated orris and the true star, Jasmine, coalesce to a smoky floral and a dry down of woody notes and sandalwood

    Une Robe de Zibeline also highlights animalic notes. Resinous, with white spiced Civet, dark, sweet, tonkan musk and balsamic notes paired with florals of rose, carnation, jasmine and orris. Like classic perfumes, the waxiness is apparent in Une Robe’s DNA–the oakmoss and amber in its base, is another nod to classics of old. Un Robe is enigmatic, smoldering and sensual; a perfume for the minx in us all.

    All three are tempting. I would wear them all

    USA

  • Ramses Perez says:

    Animalic fragrances are very polarizing, you either love or hate them. I was not a fan of them at the beginning of my fragrance journey but with time and a trained nose, I have learned to like them. There are some animalics out there that are just unwearable and I don’t get that vibe from these 3. Pnoi is sort of the entitled wilderness in a bottle and you can see by the notes how complex it is. L’Heure D’Or is in the middle with some nuances of animalics but with enough other notes to tame it down a bit making it a nostalgic scent at the end. Une Robe De Zibeline seems to be the easiest one to wear of the 3 and maybe even call it mass-appealing animalic. A great selection of entry level animalics to get acclimated. I’m located in the USA.

  • Marko227 says:

    interesting review from J,
    DSH Une robe de zibeline is interesting, the jasmine, the pepper, the bergamot, sounds fantastic, darkly sweet and balsamic
    L’heure D’or from sultan pasha sounds captivating, the rich leathers and delectable florals sound amazing, animalistic but balanced out, sounds great
    Angelos creations pnoi sounds great, the leathery and nature notes sound like a great balance, would love to try it
    I am from Serbia, EU

  • Danniel says:

    I have yet to dip my toes into the animalic side of fragrances but I am very curious about them as it seems like I might enjoy them. I enjoyed reading about and would very much like to try these fragrances. I’m in the USA

  • Jeremi says:

    Overall, J seems to enjoy the artistry, complexity, and the sensory journey each of these animalic perfumes offers, with a particular fondness for how they merge tradition with innovation, creating scents that are both provocative and sophisticated. I live in Poland, EU.

  • rachel wiener says:

    Oh my, J’s reviews always make be blush haha!! I’m so excited to see L’heure D’or here as it’s my absolute favorite from my Sultan Pasha sample set!! I just adore over the top animalic, floral vintage style perfume done by some of these indie perfumers! I’ve been so wanting to try Angelo’s Creations but it’s not easy to sample them in the USA. I would be over the moon to win Pnoi. From Brooklyn, NY

  • Teresa C says:

    j’s reviews make all three sound amazing, but I know from experience that animalic notes can be very powerful on me and end up smelling unwashed. With Pnoi, though, it truly sounds like there is enough going on to make it more of a time travel to the 1920s, where I”d love to be that flapper described in the velvety leather chypre, floral silks and furs! I live in the US.

  • Eris.can.swatch.kaos says:

    My Grandmother was born in ’26, the height of the roaring 20’s. Her life during and after the Great Depression was wrought with hardship and difficulty. I’d like to imagine that her parents were living it up while they could, but I’m afraid that they hardly had the time to. I can imagine the middle and upper classes at that time to be indulgent and intoxicated. I wonder what that is like. I can also imagine the scents of life at the time, the furs, the booze, the smoke. I would love to take a whiff of a perfume with the inspiration of the 20’s, an indulgent treat to be sure. I live in Oregon.

  • opalbear says:

    One of my all time favorite perfume genres. Absolutely top for me. And these three perfumers are some of my favorites. I just adore their work. And as much as synthetics has added to modern perfumery I believe you cannot replicate the nuances and complexities of all natural. And these perfumes showcase this. I would love to own all three. But for now hoping to win Pnoi from the skilled, generous, and amazing Angelos! I am located in USA.

  • AleksCipri says:

    I really love J’s choices. These three perfumers can really deliver good compositions with a touch of old-school vibes and masterfully intertwined animalic facets. Out of the three, the most interesting to me is indeed Pnoi. I was sold as soon as J mentioned parts of it resemble my dear Après L’Ondee. Powdery leather also sounds right up my alley. I’m from Illinois, US.

  • bentviolets says:

    I love this!! I have a sample of zine Robe de Zebeline already (as well as many other animalic vintage-style perfumes by Dawn) and it’s gorgeous! But the other two: a leather chypre with mousse de saxe (my favorite!!) and violets (another fave) and rich leathers with delicious florals? I must try these! Nuit de Noel and Tabac Blond are my absolute favorites. No 5 extrait comes in third. I really hope I win Pnoi, it sounds like an amazing work of art!

  • brentm says:

    I’m really not the biggest fan of animaloc fragrances. It is an interesting combination of notes for Pnoi that I would be curious to get my nose on. USA

  • Salem says:

    I loved J’s selection, because it transported me to a time, place and atmosphere of absolute liberation, maybe even transgression, where a woman (or why not, also a man) could fully embrace their wild sensuality, the sexy playfulness, the liberty to embrace one’s own body and “de-sacralize” it.
    All three fragrances sound amazing, perhaps Pnoi with a more pronounced nostalgic nod to the past, L’heure d’or with added coziness from the florals and the gourmand facets, while Une robe de zibeline seems to embrace also other aspects of “retro femininity”, like furs and lipstick notes.
    Commenting from the EU.

  • sav17 says:

    I have been intrigued by Pnoi since reading about it on CaFleureBon. I love how J described the fragrance, particularly their comment that it “feels like a flapper dressed in nothing but silk florals wrapped around purring opulent furs”. Sultan Pasha L’Heure D’Or sounds like quite the animalic fragrance with the indolic jasmine, leather, and civet. Although I’ve tried many of Dawn’s fragrance over the years, I have not tested Une Robe de Zibeline. J’s comment about the fragrance possessing “a sensual waxiness, reminiscent of petals warmed by soft, crushed silks” makes me very intrigued.

    Thank you, J, for your excellent reviews, and thank you to Angelos Balamis for the giveaway. I am located in the USA.

  • Sorohan Adriana says:

    The inspiration from the classics Chanel no.5, Molinard Habanita, Guerlain Shalimar and Lanvin Arpège, which I love, shapes my desire to try this perfume. I love these decadent feminine fragrances full of rich flowers, furs and lots of fun! I am frumos EU

  • Sonbahia says:

    Nice collection of animalics Mr. J. Angelo’s Pnoi is the most complex formula he did and is a versatile and wearable composition even for an animalic: it is a powdery/ violet smooth leather composition or rather a special leather chypre.Sultan Pasha L ‘Heure D’Or sounds terrific : a beautiful white floral (indolic jasmine) that turns into a dark and smoky resinous beauty.DSH Perfumes Une Robe de Zibeline sounds like a retro dark and sultry fragrance in a retro style, from the Roaring ’20s: a spicy floriental that has a musky, rich dry down that Mr. J finds intoxicating. All of them have this 20’s feeling: beautiful abundance, opulence and decay, capturing the classic perfumery touch. I live in Spain, EU.

  • Nikolina says:

    Love how J Wearescentient depicts Angelos Creations Olfactives Pnoi “It feels like a flapper dressed in nothing but silk florals wrapped around purring opulent furs. Wicked flashes of dreams and desires emerge from the journey Pnoi takes you on, making this a rather special leather chypre.”
    What sparked my intrigues me in Sultan Pasha L’Heure D’Or is the combination of absinthe and jasmine” Absinthe has had its way with the flowers, leading them down a dark purring path to a stunning garden as the sun goes down. The star of this golden hour is an indolic rich jasmine, wrapped in a gown of rose and orris elegance.”
    The blend of spices and soft, silky blooms capturing the intoxicating sensation of luxurious furs is very appealing in DSH Perfumes Une Robe de Zibeline.
    EU

  • wonderscent.mari says:

    Great review J. I’m very intrigued to try Angelos Creations Olfactives “Pnoi”. This perfume speaks to my heart, as a lover of vintage and a nostalgic admirer of great classic chypres… it sounds so complex, meshing the florals and vintage powdery feel with a modern leather. I am impressed!
    Sultan Pasha L’Heure D’Or sounds also stunning! Beautiful white floral, resinous with the right amount of animalic elements to remain a intoxicatingly luxurious scent. It’s definitely worth trying…
    What stands out with Une Robe de Zibeline is this dark sweet spicy floral that it sounds like has a vintage feeling in it. Like wearing a vintage black fur. This perfume conveys a very particular texture, with this dark
    amber base infused by civet and smooth out by benzoin and coumarin. Such a lovely perfume to try.
    A very captivating review on these beautiful animalic perfumes. Can’t wait to try them.
    Greetings from Germany EU

  • angelb says:

    I absolutely adore powdery leathers, I’m so curious about how the violet adds to it in Pnoi. Beautiful description, we could all use some more joie de vivre! I also love the name Golden Hour for a fragrance, and it’s another leather, which I love. My favorite part of Robe de Zebeline is the description of texture. I feel like I need these perfumes, and then I need a long cigarette holder and a fur coat! I hope I win!
    From ND, USA

  • Jennytammy says:

    Une Robe de Zibeline sounds beyond awesome. I love me a good classic chypre with animalic civet notes.

    Sultan Pasha L’Heure D’Or sounds like a great jasmin based perfume with warm spices and much animalic.

    Angelos Creations Pnoi Violet, Leather and Aldehydes. This sounds intriguing and very interesting to me.

    I live in the USA.

  • tannina says:

    those perfumes all seem to be great choices for any lover of animalic scents, i would love to sniff them all. sadly they are diffucult to sample in the EU, where i live. Pnoi is described as an animalic leather chypre, and as a chypre gal, please let me be lucky in this draw. i am in the EU

  • INYA says:

    Any fragrance with styrax, civet, castoreum or ambergris catches my attention. And I always liked the scent of skunk. For me, oakmoss definitely reminds me of vintage perfumes. If lucky, I’d choose Pnoi. Thanks for the opportunity to sniff. MI USA

  • ViktoriiaS. says:

    The way J describes these three animalic perfumes is just next-level. Pnoi sounds like an absolute masterpiece, powdery leather, lush florals, and that sensual Mousse de Saxe? It’s like stepping into a flapper’s dream. And L’Heure D’Or? That dark, mysterious blend of leather, florals, and absinthe is pure magic. You can almost feel the velvety richness and smoky decadence. As for Une Robe de Zibeline, it’s the perfect mix of smoky spices, silky florals, and that intoxicating musky dry-down. J really nailed it with these picks, they’re dripping with Roaring 20s vibes and feel so opulent and timeless. Now I’m dying to try all three!

    I am from the EU

  • Maestro says:

    What a beautifully evocative review of these exquisite fragrances! Among the three, Pnoi by Angelos Creations Olfactives is my favorite. Its masterful blend of powdery violets, green stems, and citrus notes creates an extraordinary, nostalgic and vibrant opening. Angelos Balamis’s homage to classic perfumery is unmistakable, and the sensual transition into its powdery leather and opulent animalic depths makes it unforgettable. As someone who appreciates the artistry behind fragrance creation, I also admire Angelos Creations Olfactives as a brand. Their ability to craft such emotive, nuanced compositions like Pnoi truly sets them apart. The connection to classic inspirations such as Après L’Ondee and Jolie Madame adds a sophisticated charm, making Pnoi a modern masterpiece with a timeless soul. This review perfectly captures the elegance and decadence of animalic fragrances, especially their ties to the roaring 20s’ allure. Thank you, J, for this inspiring write-up! Greetings from NY 😉

  • Annika says:

    It’s amazing to realize that so many iconic fragrances, that are still loved and worn by many, were first created 100 years ago in the 1920s. As J mentions, Chanel No 5, Shalimar, Habanita and Arpege are all examples of complex rich florals with animalic notes. The three fragrances he chose take this aesthetic and create scents for the contemporary wearer. I would love to win a bottle of Angelos Creations Olfactives Pnoi. MD, USA.

  • Leomag says:

    As a Greek, I am pleased to see this brand getting recognition. Angelos Creations Olfactive Pnoi seems like a fragrance that captures the essence of a fleeting breeze. With its Greek name meaning “breath,” it promises an ethereal, almost weightless experience. I imagine it blends soft, natural elements that unfold gradually, revealing their complexity. The idea of capturing such subtlety in a scent is intriguing. I’d love to experience how it balances lightness with depth. Greece, EU

  • PetaloDiCera says:

    “The joy of simply being alive”..I love this description of Pnoi! I’ve always heard all the best about Angelos Creation, but I’ve never tried anything. This one seems like a gem, shining out smells of classic perfumes.
    Smiles from Italy, EU.

  • marla says:

    I loved the review. All three perfumes evoke a sense of luxury and nostalgia, reminiscent of old-world perfumery, with a focus on rich, multi-layered compositions rather than minimalistic scents.
    For someone who loves classic, statement-making perfumes with a bold and luxurious feel, these scents fit within the same golden, vintage-inspired family.
    From EU.

  • minteacup says:

    I feel like “animalic” perfumes include a really broad variety of scents, but in my experience niche and indie perfumers make some sparkling multifaceted creations with ethically sourced, vegan or synthetic reconstructions of old school civet, castoreum, etc…. sometimes the finished product feels like reading historical fiction, sometimes it feels like post-apocalyptic sci-fi. I’m not sure how to feel about the 2020s yet but I’m ready to channel my inner flapper with one of these scents J described so well. Pnoi first landed on my radar when it appeared on several editor’s 2024 year-end top lists and it’s still on my wishlist. How can you *not* immediately be taken in by something that “blooms with nature” but also smells like you’re opening a collector’s cabinet of treasures? I’d be thrilled to win. I’m in the US, thank you for the draw.

  • Theveganking says:

    I think Pnoi would be a amazing fragrance for fancy events or just for a hang out with fragrance buddies. Usa