Angelos Créations Olfactives Krinos courtesy of Angelos Balamis
Artisanal perfumer Angelos Balamis marches to his own rhythm, ceaselessly composing distinctive perfumes that tease the senses with their originality. He has most recently created a new extrait which will premiere at the upcoming Esxence Milano 2024 March 6-9– but the last fragrance prior to it is a Luckyscent exclusive: Angelos Créations Olfactives Krinos, a very contemporary, multi-faceted ode to lily of the valley. To date, there is no other lily fragrance I’ve experienced that is quite like it. In order to fully appreciate its uniqueness, one does well to toss aside any preconceived notions about muguet. Or any lily, for that matter.
Angelos Balamis courtesy of the perfumer
Krinos translates as lily of the valley from the Greek, but it also pertains to the lily in general. In floriography, aka the language of flowers (which has existed since Old Testament times, and reached its apex during the Victorian era), the cryptological meaning of muguet is “a return to happiness”. The other lilies’ meanings are largely dependent upon their color, with a specific significance assigned to each one. As we have not yet experienced vernal delights in most of the Western Hemisphere, I view the eternal promise of a return to happiness as a welcome aromatic augury which I gratefully receive with open arms.
Muguet apped Common use
I inquired about Angelos’ creative process, which he generously shared with me: “Basically, I’m like 95% always inspired to create by molecules and naturals themselves, and this is no exception…it’s a study around muguet that I made years ago in order to create my proprietary muguet accord so I can use it in my creations (I’m a LOTV sucker, I know). So I started from that accord and made a perfume (not so soliflore), a different take on muguet based creations, and as a challenge completely wearable by all genders.”
Lily by the sea via Pixabay
When we ponder an aquatic-inspired lily fragrance, one that frequently comes to mind is Edouard Fléchier’s limpid aquarelle Lys Mediterranee created for Frederic Malle in 2000. Krinos and Lys Mediterranee couldn’t be more different if they tried. Fléchier’s lily is more floral and bosomy, even unctuous – contrasted with Angelos Créations Olfactives Krinos, which possesses a lighthearted snappiness and brisk tempo. Salinity is present in each – but Krinos has the upper edge here, in that its marine breeze quality is airier and more light-filled, less spicy and more definitively unisex than the Malle. I don’t sense a ginger lily; it feels more like Lily as an entity instead, partnered with a delicately vulnerable muguet which is feather-light and never cloys. The tangy, tonic character of rhubarb and cassis are emboldened by a soupçon of Timut pepper, with its zesty, multi-citrus tones and tender, spicy floralcy. Deftly administered quantities of sweet, animalic jasmine sambac and orange blossom provide a lovely counterbalance – and they serve to furnish just enough rondeur to keep Krinos fascinating. Krinos’ grounding elements are gossamer in nature: a discreet sandalwood is embellished by filmy amber, nigh weightless – and those mystery accords which comprise Angelos’ ‘sea breeze’. After all, inscrutability renders all things just that modicum more pleasurable, even forbidden. Angelos Créations Olfactives Krinos smells timeless, an unconstrained perfume fit for a multitude. It is intended to enchant a wide audience – and it succeeds brilliantly.
Notes: rhubarb, raspberry, Timut pepper, lily, lily of the valley, orange flowers, jasmine sambac, cassis, white musc, sandalwood, ethereal amber, sea breeze
Sample kindly provided by the perfumer – many thanks! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor
Angelos Créations Olfactives Krinos
Thanks to the generosity of Angelos Balamis we have a 30 ml flacon of Krinos for a registered reader in the USA or EU only. To be eligible, you must register. Please leave a comment saying what strikes you about Krinos based on Ida’s review and where you live. Have you tried anything from Angelos Creations Olfactives? Giveaway ends 2/17/2023
Great News: If you live in the USA, Angelos Creations Olfactives are available at Luckyscent.com to buy or sample and Krinos is an exclusive -Michelyn
Angelos Balamis was Michelyn’s rising star of 2020 and an Artisan Perfumer of the Year 2022.
Angelos Creations Olfactives Karikia was a top 10 of 2023 for Lauryn and Fougeriste was one of Lauryn’s top ten of 2022
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