Anfas Sa’adah (Cristian Carbonnel) + Still Life In Tuscany Draw

 

Anfas perfumes

Still life in Tuscany. Photo and editing for Anfas by dana

 

“Where

So alone

The sky, blue with cicadas

And the hard earth

Exist,

There

The prodigy

The perfect

Capsules

Of the olives

Filling

With their constellations, the foliage:

Then later,

The bowls,

The miracle,

The olive oil.” – Ode to Olive Oil. Poem fragment by Pablo Neruda

Distilled and shined upon by hundreds of oily hands pulling its might and thus moving the world, the lever sat, satiated, and looked around. For what’s a lever to do when its job is done? Thick and hardened like the hands under which it bent, amplifying the muscle, forever rotating on a point on itself. The simple, the satisfied, the unperfectable lever.

 

Anfas Sa’adah review

 Wall art made of old oil pressing treaty. Photo and editing by dana

To make olive oil, ancient inventors (heavy with brains and easy with tools) devised presses made of wood and stone; grinding rock would slide upon grinding rock in a circle, crushing the olives and spraying bitter juices. Soft, precious pulp would mound in gentle cannelures on the stone; tender hands would carry it out of the mill and into churning pots where oil—stirred out of the pulp with hot water—would reliably do what oil does in water, and separate.

Best Tuscan perfumes

Going to work. Still on Tuscan life by dana

The workers, sour with sweat and humbled by the effort, would then gather around the pots to stare into the green with touchy eyes and hungry hands, as mankinds always do when the profane births the sacred. Then, with reverence, they’d scoop the tears of the gods.

 

Anfas Sa’adah review

Boboli gardens in the heart of Florence, a place for the gods. Photo by dana

The flesh would be sieved and gathered, again with breaths drawn, still raw but slightly more plebeian—for it’s the second press that yields the familiar.  Set in wide baskets, the pulp gets stacked; another lever makes a moving rock screw down, pressing the baskets against a hard stone beneath to make the only oil the laborer knows: the fat that makes his kids’ skin glisten; the fire in his lamp; the fasting food when, tired, all poor gather around the table and, with a bit of salt, they dip.

 

Sa'adah Anfar

Olive branch arrangement and photo by dana

Anfas Sa’adah by Cristian Carbonnel opens hard and heavy, raw, vegetal, and still warm like a basketcase of dusty olives. There’s floralcy there, but only in context- for neither the neroli, nor the ylang speak out individually; rather, they mutedly support a tonka so spicy and hot that it starts bitter…in the best way. In fact, the head is so pungent, it’s brash: the sandal notes come through slightly sour, the pine is zingy, the cedar–strong; and, over all, a tarry subtone that creates tension and increases pressure—as if the smell swells, menacing to short-circuit.

But then, instead of popping, it oozes life.

What follows is smooth and strangely addictive: an irisy violet twists ith hesperidic zest, terpenic accords blend with creamy fruits, and delicate green flowers get leverage through a discrete musk; underneath it all, a smoky and still coumaric vanilla vibrates earthily, warmly, and comfortably organic.

 

dana sandu A_nose_knowss of Cafleurebon

Self-portrait in Tuscany. Photo and treatment by dana

The result is primordially edible, physically intimate, and as uplifting as an Italian September.

Official notes: orange, rose, pine and neroli; violets, cedar, sandalwood and ylang-ylang; vanilla and tonka bean.

Other perceived notes: olive flowers, brown sugar, green coffee, dates, oud, birch, salt, terracotta, benzoin, leathery accords, berries, musk

Disclaimer:  Anfas Sa’adah tested and selected from a sample kit provided by Anfas after meeting them in Milan and delivered through Niche Parfumerie in Romania. Thank you.

dana sandu, Sr. Contributor

Review Anfas Sa'adah

Ancient steps in the Tuscan sun. Photo of Anfas Sa’adah and editing by dana

Thanks to the generosity of Anfas and Niche Parfumerie, we have a tester kit (6x10ml, a $200 value) for one registered reader in the US, EU, and Canada. You must register here. To be eligible, please tell us what spoke to you in dana’s review of Anfas Sa’adah and where you live. Draw ends 9/22/2019.

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95 comments

  • Olives. Love them. Thanks for another fabulous article. I’m interested if I would be able to smell the perceived notes, especially the olive flowers! USA

  • Another brand I havent heard of yet and another beautifully written review. I use olive oil in most of my meals so I am very familiar with the smell. Very interested in smelling this. Greetings from Austria (EU)

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    Despite the proliferation of niche and indie brands these days, I do quite like the feeling of sampling a new one! I love the phrase “primordially edible” and the bitter spicy tonka sounds like a lovely grounding to this scent. Love how there are both actual notes and perceived ones listed. Thanks for the draw–i am in the US.

  • I really enjoyed how Dana describee the process of making the olive oil and then how those same workers used it. Also her description of Sa’adah makes it sound incredibly interesting. Thank you for the generous draw! In the U.S. Thanks.

  • Oh, my God! Tuscany! I feel again your sun on my burned skin …I smell your cedars… I miss you like hell . But my soul is full of joy, because of you, dear Dana! I miss you too! Coni from Romania.

  • If “curiosity killed the cat” is a fact, then I’m the cat and Dana’s review is the curiosity. Every time I visit a perfume shop I’m thinking ” this time i’ll ask her/him to sell me a beautiful dream or a nightmare”.I never do. Luckily Dana is able to feed me a dream, almost every time she writes a review, for free:) Hugs, from Romania.

  • I am thrilled to see a scented creation inspired by olive oil. It was interesting to see the perceived notes in addition to the actual ones. Thank you for the opportunity. I live in the USA.

  • Dana’s writing is so evocative…her reviews are ones I read…and re-read…to get every last juicy drop, much like the pressing of the olives as described above. Thank you for the opportunity to try several from the house of Anfas and Niche Parfumerie. I am in the US.

  • Thank you Dana. What a way with words. I have been transported in the middle of my work day 🙂 Canada

  • smellslikehappiness says:

    This sounds fascinating, what a cool back story! I really like the sound of the iris twist in the drydown, nothing straight forward in this one. Thank you for the draw, live in the US.

  • What was missing from the review is the meaning of Anfas Sa’adah; it translates from Arabic as Breaths Happiness. USA.

  • I love the poem!! I am a huge fan of the olive, especially since I had an olive tree in my front yard when I was growing up. I have many fond memories hanging from the tree and climbing it. I love a zingy pine!!! The notes vs. perceived notes is interesting to me. Thanks Dana!! USA.

  • Dana says Anfas Sa’adah has a brash opening but in the latter stages reveals its floral side. I am in US.

  • What interests me most about danas review is her perceived notes rather than the actual note listing.

    It’s always fascinating to see how others perceive a fragrance, I’d be interested in seeing how our senses aline or differ.

    Eu/Ireland

  • That reminds me of my childhood holidays incitaly. We lived in an old olive mill, with all the grinding stones, that still smelled a bit bitter.
    Lovely article, now i would like to try this.
    I am from Germany

  • I felt the Tuscan sun, the rays that warms your skin, the shadows of the afternoon, the smell of dry olives, the drops of water on the glass and s subtile smell of flowers in the air. It was like I was there for a moment. Wonderfully written.

  • This is the greatest juxtaposition I’ve ever heard of between the opening and heart of a fragrance. But such a major transition in the right direction from a “brash” opening are some of my favorite creations. I love the unexpected pleasures of perfumery. Commenting from FL, USA.

  • My sunny Tuscany has not so much grey as your photos, but has plenty of many perceived notes that you mentioned in the review… I am curious about the result: “primordially edible, physically intimate, and as uplifting as an Italian September”. Thank you for the draw. I am from Romania

  • This one went straight to my heart. I have lived in Florence while I was a student and one of my flat mates was a girl from a smaller Tuscan town. She used to bring olio novello made from her family’s trees every November, green, luxurious and full of precious particles on the bottom of the bottle. First thing we would do was, obviously, to smear it on fresh bread but, instead if the usual pinch of salt on the top, I would provide some of my Romanian telemea – salty, half matured sheep milk cheese, which we would crush and distribute on the bread evenly. Needless to say it made a delicious antipasto or even an isolated treat during the day. While reading this review, I imagined the people doing this wonderful, sacred and timeless process – even my friend’s parents were taking their own bags full of olives to the village press, which the whole population could book and use during olive picking time. And I assume the process was pretty much the same as Dana so wonderfully describes here: primordial, humbling, silent.
    Thanks Dana for bringing back some memories! From Romania.

  • Oh, amazing how you blend the lyrical part with the scent description. And then blend again the official notes with the break down of your additional perception. That’s about how I would like to be able to review. – I’d love to win this to Germany, thanks for the draw!

  • Dana’s articles are always so well written and in such interesting way that i always read them in a hurry first,hungry for the information and then for the second time ,while having my coffee,enjoying every word ,cause Dana knows how to keep me interested. How to keep us all interested.The process of making the olive oil,with all the details so well described i almost see myself among the workers is one of the best part of this piece. And then the fragrance. How am i supposed to live without it after i smelled it through Dana’s words?! Thank you. Alexandra,Romania.

  • September in Tuscany, life in these places is poetry and perfume, the richly traditional past returns with the olive harvest. The kit is a great idea … the curiosity to try something new is great.
    Alex, Europe

  • Dana’s review is yet again detailed and quite visual. Thank you for another wonderful review for this house I hadn’t heard of before, the history of olive oil and for the giveaway. This fragrance sounds amazing. I’m in TX USA

  • “But then, instead of popping, it oozes life.”. Great statement about a fragrance. Would love to try. Thank you. USA

  • Neruda’s ode speaks of the beauty of olive oil, a simple but precious fruit, Anana Sa’adah tells an emotion linked to a land full of sensory inspirations, a path characterized by the aromatic note of the olive tree. Thank you for this new and fascinating knowledge.
    Angel (EU)

  • Anfas Sa’adah does not sound lovely, but it does sound interesting. Thank you dana for sharing your impressions of this fragrance.
    USA

  • Tuscany is on my list for the next trip, so Dana gave me a short heads-up about the wonderful view of this region adding a personal and delicate note through the olive oil story and she made me wonder “what can be more delightful than an Italian September?” Regards from Romania

  • KNOWING NEW FRAGRANCES IS ALWAYS A PLEASANT. HERE ART IS THE PROTAGONIST IN MANY SHAPES, CROSSING HISTORY AND TIME.THE KIT SEEMS FABULOUS.THANKS
    Linda – UE

  • Three years ago I spent a week in Tuscany in September. We stayed at an inn on an olive grove and attended a lot of the harvest related activities. It was a magical experience and this kit sounds like it captures that time and place. I live in the US

  • The land of Tuscany at the beginning of autumn is the natural setting for this olfactory experience, linked to the production of olive oil and its use in Anfas Sa’adah. Olive oil has been associated with the idea of ??beauty since the times of Magna Graecia. What’s more beautiful than a perfume?
    Mat (Europe)

  • Nicoleta.Tomsa says:

    Dana has such a fabulous way of serving you facts (i had no idea how olive oil is made) with a huge side dish of magic (the Neruda poem is beautifully blended with the imagery of autumnal Tuscany) Thanks for the opportunity! Much love from Romania.

  • redwheelbarrow says:

    Such a beautiful review. I have not had the opportunity to smell olive flowers but I love the nuances of a really great olive oil. Anfas Sa’adah sounds gorgeous with so many directions. I am not familiar with this house but now I am super intrigued. Thank you for the draw. I’m in the US.

  • The description of the morphing of this scent is enough to make me want to try it. I love unusual scents and morphing scents! I am in the US

  • This is not a company that I am familiar with. The description almost jumps off the page and begs to be tried. A most fascinating review. Thank you and thank you for the generous draw. I’m in the USA.

  • Oh wow. This sounds gorgeous. A good olive oil is so complex, with fruity and floral characteristics, but oily, and with that bitter taste on the tongue. It’s so fascinating, and I’d love to see how this is brought to life in a perfume! Thank you for the beautifully written review that made this come alive, and for the generous draw. I’m in the USA. Thanks again!

  • Nice review. I enjoy cooking with olive oil and the smell itself and have never experienced it in perfume. Like the explanation of the fragrance as edible and intimate. I also enjoy the perfumers work for Zoologist. Thanks for the draw. In the USA.

  • Great description of the olive oil production. Very poetic/ idyllic. Thank you. Also lovely pics! Ana, Romania.

  • I really enjoyed the article and its reference to religion, art and fragrance. I believe that this fragrance house is under appreciated after I looked at their lineup of fragrances. I am very excited to sample them. Thank you for the draw. From the US.

  • That was an interesting article explaining how olive oil is extracted/made. I’ve never heard of this perfume house and would love to be able to sample their fragrances.
    I live in the US.

  • I love the description of the olive harvest. I’ve smelled fragrances claiming to contain olive blossom but I would much rather try the one from Tuscany. Excellent review. I live in the US

  • I’ve never heard of this brand before. Very cool. I love the review. I especially love the personal touch that Dana gave to it. I also love the perceived notes that she adds. Sa’adah sounds really incredible. I’m from the USA.

  • To me here the poetry spoke. First the one of Neruda, then passages by Dana, eg those about the lever and those about the sacred. I am loving perfume, because it is able to evoke such thoughts – profane births the sacred.

    Living in Germany, EU

  • Anfas Sa’adah sounds fabulous from the base of the review and the notes. Very nice review, I very enjoyed to read. Thank you for the draw. I live in the EU.

  • Enjoyed the article and photos. Also enjoy eating olives. Interested to know how olive flowers smell. Thanks for this draw, Ca

  • Bryant Worley says:

    There were 2 things that spoke to me: 1) the ode to olive oil (which I really like to use); 2) her description of how the notes to the fragrance melded together, becoming “primordial edible” (making it sound quite delicious), and that would become “physically intimate” (or bond/become one/second skin) with me. Therefore, I need this fragrance. And if you agree with me, I reside in Waldorf, MD, USA.

  • Hendrix Wilson says:

    The things that spoke to me, Dana using the word pungent to describe a fragrance. Pungent seems as if it would pop but this oozes to life. That description alone spoke volumes about the work put in a masterpiece. USA

  • Thanks for another great review, Dana! I love your style of writing- olive oil in the making never sounded so dramatic to me, but this! Amazing! I love how your described that the neroli and ylang-ylang are not the forerunners of this fragrance but acts as a muted support of the spicy tonka. I’m so intrigued by this fragrance. I haven’t any Anfas yet so I’m excited for this draw! Thanks!! – CA, USA

  • Wow! Reading about how olive oil is made by grinding rocks reminds me of when we were growing up back home in Nigeria. That’s how we would grind peppers, tomatoes etc. it’s a very tedious work to do.
    I live in USA.

  • I’m bewildered on what our imagination constructs based on words, blended with memories and feelings. Now I got an image of a world long forgotten, where people took their time in living their life. Does this sound gibberish? Not at all. I picture a time when people stopped to smell a flower and wondered how is it possible that scent to exist. [Oh, what a thrill!] A time when they put all their efforts in doing their day to day job, a time when they kissed in passion and not thinking at other advantages, or a time when the sacred was cherished and frightening in the same time. I imagine an old italian or portuguese city, with dusted marble stairs struck by a lazy sun and a magnificient olive garden depicted nearby. Isn’t that an out of this world image? And so close to my heart. Thank you for the daydreaming delight! I’m from Romania.

  • A spectacular review, as always. Thank you, Dana! I have never tested this fragrance and i will be more than happy to do it. Kisses from Romania

  • Judging by Dana take on Sa’Adah we have a changeling kind of fragrance. Pungent start , and strangely addictive base. Violet , fruits, vanilla, tonka and green flowers.
    To me it a fall scent you could wear in the spring too. I like changing fragrance, linear one are a bit boring.
    Thank you. USA

  • I like dana’s description of the the herbal opening and transition to a smooth and addictive blend of notes. I’m in the USA.

  • Matei Georgiana Mihaela says:

    Interesting articole, I love olive,I love Dana,I love Tuscany.Excellent review!!From Romania.

  • Dana – as always – provides not only her impressions about scent but also about anthropological associations that she has with it.
    Her reviews are artistic and this is what I like the most.
    I live in Poland.

  • I liked how dana was able to read this long mixture of notes as centering on olives. I like how so many of the reviewers here begin by zeroing in on the feeling that the fragrance gives them, and then pull out to analyze it and take it apart. I live in the US, in North Carolina.

  • Dana’s depictions of fragrances are always so lively, and this one is no exception. I can smell and fell the olives being pressed and the scorching Tuscany sun feeding into the power of that smell. The way she described that spicy tonka is intrigues me and that is why is my favorite part of Dana’s article. From Romania.

  • Thank you Dana for your lovely review! This perfume must be an unusual cration, mixing olives, irid and violets together with neroli, brown sugar, woods and musk.
    Cheers from Romania, EU.

  • I read the article and I confess I looked in the dictionary for some words. First of all, I loved Neruda’s poem. Then, I immediately felt I was transported right there, in the middle of Tuscany, smelling heavy, raw olive oil, mixed with some orange flowers. I loved the parallel between olive oil and Anfas Sa’adah. Thank you for a great article, Dana! I live in Romania.

  • Another interesting review by Dana and another house haven’t heard yet! Olive used in Perfumery…that is also a novelty for me. It sounds very interesting!
    “The result is primordially edible, physically intimate, and as uplifting as an Italian September.” makes me curious and hope to try this fragrance.
    Greetings from RO, EU.

  • Pine , cedar … and then creamy fruits?!? I like when perfumers throw curveballs at us.
    I really want to applaud Anfas for their decision of selling 6x10ml kit . Personally I think 10ml is nice amount of fragrance , to make up your mind of buying a full bottle. 1.5-2.5 samples are way too small. I need to be sure I’m making the right decision.
    Thank you Dana , and Anfas for the chance. USA

  • Coconu Monica says:

    The hypnotic sensory journey one takes when reading about olive oil making and the story told by Dana’s photos.

  • I loved the poem in the beginning. Olive oil is one of those resources that is more precious than we realize, and yet so humble.
    I have heard about Anfas and I really want to try their fragrances, so I’m so happy to see this giveaway. This article has only served to heighten my interest in the brand.

    I’m in Canada.

  • Slightly sour , slightly floral, fresh , fruity and sweet. Natural smelling is always a plus. Sounds like my type of fragrance .I will no doubt enjoy it.
    Thank you for the generosity.
    USA most of the year, and Germany from time to time.

  • The fragrance sounds like it’s on the dry, bitter, and earthy side. Mediterranean, uplifting, and fresh. The name also gives off that vibe. It means breath of happiness in Arabic, and Saadah is a North African surname (along with other parts in the Arab world).
    I live in IL, USA. Thanks for the draw

  • Smelling perfums is such a personal are extremely subjective thing, depending on the mood, weather, skin, perception, body chemistry and personal preferences.
    Anfas house i knew because of Sebastian YouTube channel. I remember he was heads over heels on Samaha.
    I also remember he said Sa’adah is lovely, but really boozy.
    What a different perception Dana and Sebastian have on a same fragrance. I’m so curious.
    Thanks
    Virginia USA, or London UK at least 97/100 times
    PP
    It’s Christian Carbonnel with Ch..

  • Ah, Tuscany…I’d love to visit one day! I greatly appreciated the history lesson in olive oil-making and the Pablo Neruda poem, as he is my favorite poet 🙂 Though I am usually a lover of gourmand fragrances, I love the idea of the almost bitter tonka bean and vanilla note. This truly sounds like a fragrance which would be wearable all year long! USA

  • This sounds beautiful with the vegetal and dusky notes and the primally raw evocation of the olive come to life. Dana’s descriptions are fantastic.
    I live in the USA. Thanks!

  • Andreea Lupei says:

    I love Dana’s reviews. She makes me dizzy by blending imagery, colors, fragrance and life itself into words, by going back to the roots and coming back with a totally new and unexpected creation. She is a goddess. I would love to smell the perfumes because this review makes me extremely curious. I am from Romania.

  • I always enjoy eating olives and the only kitchen oil I use is olive oil for many years now. I’m new to this brand Anfas Sa’adah, but I would love to try the fragrances. I’m in EU. Thank you for this wonderful draw.

  • ,,over all, a tarry subtone that creates tension and increases pressure—as if the smell swells, menacing to short-circuit” is the sentence that makes me to desire this perfume. I look for somethink to induce me a certain state. Also the Reference To the Italy, that i visited once, makes me more than curious. I’m from EU

  • ,,over all, a tarry subtone that creates tension and increases pressure—as if the smell swells, menacing to short-circuit” is the sentence that makes me to desire this perfume. I look for somethink to induce me a certain state. Also the Reference To the Italy, that i visited once, makes me more than curious! I’m from EU

  • I am really intrigued by the note of olives as I don’ t have any fragrances with thisnotea. I love sandal and cedar. From UK

  • Michael Prince says:

    Dana, great review of Anfas Sa’adah. Based on your review it sounds like an interesting compisition with citrus, floral, spicy, vanilla, and earthy qualities. I would love to receive this tester kit. I am from the USA.

  • The opening notes sound so strong but her description of it not “popping” but oozing life makes for some drama! (I also love that the review started with Neruda) Thanks for the draw, I’m in the US.

  • I remember Joe , from JoeSCENTMe YouTube channel did really good interview with Asim Al Quassim from Esxence 2019 , and could swear he said there’s tuberose in Sa’adah. I’m about to watch it again, and he really did , or maybe I don’t get well his Arabic accent.
    Ok back to Dana review. Tonka beans , vanilla, brown sugar, dates, and pine combination reminded me eating a slice of tonka bean Sbrisolona cake and drinking strong espresso. Pastry Chef in the house.
    Appreciate Dana review, and the giveaway campaign.
    USA

  • Dana’s overall nerdiness is enough to get me curious about the whole range of Anfas! (UK & Bangladesh)

  • I had the pleasure of smelling Sa’aadah on a guy from Saudi Arabia I work with, and unlike Dana olives I don’t get, even slightest traces of it.
    One thing I got immediately though,was STRONG resemblance to one other fragrance created by Christian Carbonnel Kajal Homme , fragrance I know very well become both my husband and my brother own it. Not exactly the same fragrances, but pretty similar , both long lasting and great smelling.
    After some short research I found out most notes in Kajal Homme and Sa’aadah are the same , both made by the same perfumer.
    I have a feeling Kajal and Anfas are somehow connected , both are UAE based companies…..Two brands under the same umbrella I presume.
    Thank you
    Back and forth between USA and Scotland EU. 1 week in US -> 1 week in Scotland and so on. Basically both USA and EU/UK at the same time.

  • A great and interesting read! I enjoyed reading about the processing of olives. I love to eat olives and the olive flower note intrigues me. I am not familiar with this brand and thanks for introducing me. My favorite line was: “The result is primordially edible, physically intimate, and as uplifting as an Italian September.” Thanks for the giveaway and I live in the US!

  • This review was pure poetry, just like the Neruda poem at the beginning. I was transported to Tuscany in September, the most sublime time to visit. That light….I would so like to try a fragrance that oozes life like this.
    I live in the USA.

  • Hi folks, thank you all for your comments- reading everyone’s impressions is, alongside being able to pass on the good perfume luck, my favorite part of writing a review.
    NOTE 1, if I may: Sa’adah does NOT smell of olives, per se. There’s definite unctuosity and a very slight olive flower impression, as well as a sharpness connection between pressed oil and the spiciness of tonka– but similarities stop here.
    NOTE 2: my “other perceived notes” are not there to REPLACE the declared notes, but to ADD to them and provide more depth to a profile already mentioned in the official description.
    I hope this sheds some light on my approach and– I admit– the convoluted ways my nerdy brain contextualizes concepts 🙂

  • Thank you for the wonderful review and generous giveaway. I have always wanted to find a good olive/olive flower fragrance, but its such an uncommon fragrance note. The ode to olive poem in the beginning was wonderful. I’m from the USA.

  • a little bit of poetry, a little bit of factual information, a dash of amazing photos and a self portrait of dana – the recipe for a good start of a sunny Sunday.

    I live in The Netherlands, EU

  • Well written review on the notes and details by Dana on such a unique and amazing niche perfume collection. I have not tried any of these fragrances but I am very interested. Thanks for such an amazing draw. I live in USA.

  • I’m always looking forward to Dana’s reviews. So evocative, filled with complex emotions.
    An ode to the olive sounds amazing. The list of perceived notes is a wonderful touch. Smell is sometimes subjective and the list helps to understand the multiple facets and the chemistry of a perfume on skin.
    Thank you for the fabulous review and draw!
    Greetings from Romania, EU.