American Legends by Michael Edwards photo by Ermano Picco©

“Perfume is liquid emotion.” ~ Michael Edwards

The mere notion of contemplating a review of Michael Edwards’ long-awaited compendium is a daunting venture. How can one individual properly encompass the knowledge and expertise which has been accrued over the course of a lifetime? It defies truncation. American Legends by Michael Edwards: The Evolution of American Fragrances exceeds any expectations I may have entertained prior to having read it – precisely because he reveals an intimate understanding of the fragrance industry and the complex characters and factors underlying it. It has generally been the case that, for many years – American perfumery had been perceived as second-tier, the lesser-loved denizen of the fragrance world, inferior to French and Italian perfumery. My hope is that American Legends will engender a newfound appreciation and respect amongst its readers – and an ongoing fascination with the scented world.

 

Fragrances of The World Fragrance Wheel ©

Mr. Edwards is a dedicated fragrance historian and taxonomist who first realized, while working in retail in 1984 – that fellow retailers could benefit from a guide which would aid them in more effectively serving their customers/clients via a more detailed classification of scent. That same year, he independently published The Fragrance Manual – the first of its kind. By 1992, his publication included a fragrance wheel which provided visual representation of fragrance families and how they intersected. The fragrance industry welcomed and widely adopted his useful construct. Over the many years scent classifications have been adjusted, as society has deemed certain categories potentially offensive – the most obvious example being the reference to resinous, warm fragrances as ‘ambery’ as opposed to ‘oriental’. Mr. Edwards’ fragrance wheel reflects this in his most recent publications. Ever the consummate and considerate gentleman, Michael Edwards would never tolerate offensive language or seek to distress his readers.

Michael Edwards Courtesy of Fragrances of The World©

At this point, I must disclose my longstanding admiration for Mr. Edwards; I see no need for apology for it. When we first met twelve years ago at Esxence Milano, he had just delivered a fascinating lecture about the history and nature of citrus colognes throughout history. I followed each word with rapt attention, completely unaware that he had taken note of my interest. It was only later, when he approached me and mentioned this that I realized a remarkable truth about him: no one, however seemingly insignificant – was beyond his consideration; it appeared that his interest and curiosity were yet one more facet of his generosity of spirit. These qualities are evident in the manner with which he treats each of the plethora of perfumers who sends him samples. There is not one whit of snobbery or elitism in Mr. Edwards, either towards the lesser-known brands, noses, or the endeavors of other creatives. No one is beneath his notice – and he is the soul of discretion.

Estee Lauder Youth Dew composed in 1953 by perfumer Josephine Catapano

In his latest volume American Legends, Mr. Edwards has culled a wealth of information based upon primarily face-to-face interviews which span 27 years – no mean feat. It is stultifying to consider that from 1995-2024, his team matched and explored 47,000 new fragrances alone – in addition to his previous rigorous research into the great classics of perfume annals. He cites the specificity of his included choices: these encompass those significant elements which set them apart – i.e., the introduction of a new accord, note, or technological advance – as well as those fragrances which spurred others to imitate them or begin new trends. Innovation is what sets these scents apart from a veritable aromatic herd.

IFF perfumer Josephine Catapano via American Legends©

One such innovation occurred during the development of Charles Revson’s designer fragrance Norell (IFF perfumer Josephine Catapano) released in 1968 – which many considered the ‘” first great American perfume” (per Enid Nemy of the New York Times, August 25, 1975: Charles Revson of the Revlon Empire Dies): it was the first scent to double perfume concentrations.

Ida’s Flacon of Antonia’s Flowers by Ida© limited edition partum and packaging

Another personal favorite, 1984’s Antonia’s Flowers – created by the brilliant Bernard Chant and Josephine Catapano of IFF – was the first fragrance to utilize headspace technique in order to capture the beauty of freesia via IFF’s Living Flower technology. Notably, Estée Lauder’s iconic Youth Dew (1953, composed by Josephine Catapano in collaboration with Ernest Shiftan) went on to inspire a whole new wave of tenaciously decadent, voluptuously resinous fragrances – including 1958’s Royal Secret (Germaine Monteil), Frances Denney’s Interlude and Dior Dioressence (both released in 1969), 1977’s YSL Opium, and 1982’s KL.

Excerpt from the American Legends by Michael Edwards chapter on ck1 1994 by Harry Fremont and Alberto Morillas©

In each of Mr. Edwards’ volumes he adopts an historical, conversational, and anecdotal tone which provokes the reader’s interest and engages our attention by providing tantalizing details about the provenance of each perfume, and an ever-present backstory about the creative directors, perfumers, designers, and history of the houses themselves. These references are personal and riveting, and they breathe new life into our collective understanding of how both business and artistic aspects play out in the real world. It furthers our understanding of the era in which each scent evolved, and how this affected its artistic development (and the reception which it received). Not every fragrance is an instant hit. The willingness of American Legends’ protagonists to take risks (which others perceived as foolhardy or reckless at the time) may provide the bone structure which supports fragrance innovation and contributes to the exploration and incorporation of new technical advances and state of the art olfactory materials which have revolutionized fragrance creation.

Annette Green became in President of The Fragrance Foundation in1973 and held the position until 2003 and is the author of Spritzing to Success (Photo from Spritzing to Success)

It is the stubborn, driven, and inquisitive minds which appear – such as those of Estée Lauder, Elizabeth Arden, and Helena Rubinstein – who refused to give up despite myriad frustrations and roadblocks. These talented and iconoclastic individuals frequently provided the impetus which led to radical change. The insights of industry greats such as Ann Gottlieb and Annette Green further divulge insider information to which most of us would not otherwise be privy. We owe them each a debt of gratitude, which Mr. Edwards fully acknowledges. Younger readers and more recent devotees will recognize many fragrances as vintage classics; some may turn up their noses at choices which they have come to view as common, since they were not particularly expensive and enjoyed a wide distribution. American Legends reveals just how numerous the prestigious and gifted flacon designers and noses are/were behind these, even the humbler perfumes – which is sure to come as a surprise. Those of us who have been around a bit longer are already very familiar with nearly all the perfumes included; we’ve smelt them, worn them, and owned them – and this book’s detailed and entertaining accounts only increase our appreciation. Be they bon marché beauties or higher-end prestige fragrances, each one is treated with respect and care – without bias. This alone distinguishes American Legends when viewed alongside other writing concerning the fragrance industry. Mr. Edwards shares narratives which are intriguingly heady and disclose much about the vagaries and tastes of perfume luminaries – but none of these disclosures are mean-spirited, petty, or gossipy. One senses the deep affection for his colleagues which underpins his descriptions and observations.

 American Legends By Michael Edwards dedication to Ernest Shiften, Estée Lauder and Annette Green

I have not yet been willing to place American Legends by Michael Edwards upon my bookshelf next to his other volumes. I keep picking it up, thumbing through it eagerly, then rifling through all my closets, drawers, and boxes in order to revisit these trailblazing fragrances yet again. Each time I revisit a chapter, I realize that such a resource cannot be properly digested in a few sittings alone; American Legends is a book one lives with and grows into with each reading. It is a valuable addition to any library, especially for those amongst us who venerate the art of perfumery. Thanks to Mr. Edwards’ extensive scholarship, it is possible to view American fragrance in a new light – illuminated by insight into those talented (and currently well-known) perfumers and designers who created world-class wearable art: from initial inspiration to innovation, from the jus to the incredible flacons which house them.

Many thanks to Mr. Edwards and his marvelous team, who generously sent me a copy of American Legends.  My opinions and review my own

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief Art Director

Michelyn’s Note: American Legends The Evolution of American Perfumery includes 25 iconic American fragrances from1934 to 2011 (Elizabeth Arden Blue Grass, 1934- Le Labo Santal 33 composed in 2011 by Frank Voelkl (for A Look Inside please click here)

 Hernando attended as press at the American Perfumers Society event his photo©

Michael Edwards was a keynote speaker, discussing American Legends at The Fragrance Foundation Finalists Awards luncheon on April 11th (Ida was a Finalist).

Michael Edwards and the perfumers at the American Perfumers Society at the National Arts Society @Hernando

The American Perfumers Society, April 16 (photo by Hernando above) and will be speaking at the World Perfumery Congress in Geneva June 25th, 2024 at 9:30 A.M. GMT +1

Disclosure: I was thrilled to receive a copy of American Legends as well

American Legends by Michael Edwards book cover courtesy of Fragrances of The World

Thanks to the largesse of Michael Edwards and the team of Fragrances of The World, we have a draw for this 307 page opus, the hard cover book  of American Legends: The Evolution of American Fragrances for one registered reader WORLDWIDE. You must register here or your comment will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what you enjoyed most about reading Ida’s review, if you are familiar with Michael Edwards, and where you live. Draw closes 4/24/2034

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