Edvard Munch's "Melancholy"
Agonist has released their third fragrance, Liquid Crystal. Their first two releases, Kallocain and The Infidel, were unique compositions some would call them weird. Kallocain was a mix of unusual accords like tomato leaf, and rice all over a linen aquatic mix. Kallocain was unexpectedly bright for a fragrance from a company which says it “is inspired by the Nordic climate and culture with its melancholy.” The Infidel managed to find cumin that wasn’t so cumin-y and consequently it allowed the other notes to take The Infidel very deep. Both fragrances didn’t smell like many other scents out there but I wasn’t getting the desired “melancholy” Agonist was after. Would Liquid Crystal be the fragrance that pulled off Agonist’s stated design credo?
The one thing Agonist has accomplished is the creation of amazing flacons to hold these fragrances. Designed and realized by Asa Jungnelius of Kosta Boda Glassworks they add an artistic flair to this line. They all share an unusual beauty while touching a bit on the surreal; they feel like they match the juice inside. When the picture of Liquid Crystal appeared in the press materials I had a feeling it wasn’t going to be melancholy or dark.
Fabrice Pellegrin is the nose for Liquid Crystal and his recent composition of Diptyque Eau Duelle was a triumph of minimal design. Liquid Crystal, based on the note list, looked like M. Pellegrin was going to work the other side of the street .
Liquid Crystal starts off with bergamot and lavender and it almost seems too pedestrian for an Agonist fragrance. The spicy duet of clove and oregano comes forward to realize my expectations of what Agonist is usually like. M. Pellegrin lets the strong clove hold the center but the lavender, at first, followed by the oregano make this surprisingly almost herbal in its nature. How one reacts to this herbal phase will be what decides whether that person finds Liquid Crystal wearable.
Edvard Munch, Summer Night 1889
For me, it is not an easy accord to fall in love with at first sniff, but as I wore it more I began to enjoy it more. That herbal nature very slowly gives way to vetiver and coumarin and it feels quite seamless. The base is called a praline accord and it is here, where Liquid Crystal turns almost sticky sweet. Almond and an almost vanillic sugar come out. The transition could be jolting but it actually works here almost like dessert after a particularly aromatic entrée. In the note list immortelle was listed but after three wearings of Liquid Crystal I was never able to pick it up. Which felt like a loss to me because I think it would have been an appropriate addition.
Liquid Crystal has almost 24-hour longevity and average sillage.
Agonist does manage to live up to its unusual pedigree quite easily with Liquid Crystal. M. Pellegrin has created an herbal sweet confection; and while it isn’t a bright ray of sunshine it sure doesn’t qualify as melancholy either.
Disclosure: This review was based on a sample purchased from Luckyscent.
–Mark Behnke, Managing Editor
Thanks to our friends at Luckyscent we have one sample of Liquid Crystal to give away to one commenter below.
The draw closes Sunday February 6th.