Photos for Aftelier Perfumes Joie de Vert via Mandy Aftel
Over the green and yellow rice-fields
sweep the shadows of the autumn
clouds followed by the swift-chasing
sun.
The bees forget to sip their honey;
drunken with light they foolishly hover
and hum. ~ The Gardener Lxxxiv: Over the Green by Rabindranath Tagore
Mandy Aftel in her Aftel Archive of Curious Scents and Museum (photo for CaFleureBon)
The voice of joy must surely be a green one, if we take award-winning artisanal natural perfumer and author Mandy Aftel and poet Rabindranath Tagore at their word. Joy need not be frivolous – and Mandy’s latest fragrant release Aftelier Perfumes Joie de Vert (Joy of Green) is a prime example of rapture at its most profound, deeply tinged with mystery and aromatic contradiction.
Pierre Etienne Theodore Rousseau 1812-1867. “Le Vieux Dormoir du Bas-Breau”, 1836/37 via wiki
It would be far easier to slip into some of the more tried-and-true renditions of happy verdancy: grassy tones, lilting muguet des bois, sticky über-green galbanum, a breath of hyacinth, conifer, lime. What Mandy has provided embraces the serpentine rather than the familiar – which makes it all the more fascinating and keenly satisfying. For one thing, the perfumer weaves her spell around unusual elements – a 20-year-old anise hyssop, aka licorice mint – and the fruity liquored leatheriness of fire tree essential oil. Hyssop’s greenness is a very sweet, lyrical one; one must imagine licorice as green as a fennel bulb, and as enticing. The features of herbalcy may vary greatly – and this hue bears no resemblance to basil. Other shades appear and expand upon the theme: the inky, forest floor depths of oakmoss; coriander seed’s resplendent, brilliant spice; the fleshy, crisp pear – each possessing a different palette and contributing layers which represent the earthy, luminous and juicy qualities inherent in a spectrum of green. Contrast these with the dulcet orange blossom and bigarade heart, underscored with styrax’s woody vanillic tone (which is further complicated by an animalic bent, elegant and balsamic) – and the olfactory experience is multi-tiered and exquisite.
Pierre Etienne Theodore Rousseau The Edge of The Forest Setting Sun via wiki
Mandy Aftel’s joy is not a violin, it is a cello. To me, the experience is akin to being lured into the forest initially by the song of the woodthrush, only to discover that it has flown and now you are being serenaded by the owl as daylight retires. The mood has altered entirely and you have traveled extensively in a brief period of time. There is a sense of union and communion with the natural forces in which you find yourself, a oneness which is perhaps the greatest embodiment of joy.
Notes: anise hyssop, oakmoss, fire tree, orange flower, pear, styrax, bitter orange, coriander
Sample kindly provided by the perfumer – many thanks! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor
Art Director: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
Aftelier Perfumes Joie de Vert
Thanks to the generosity of perfumer Mandy Aftel, we have one 2ml mini-flacon of Aftelier Perfumes Joie de Vert for one registered reader worldwide with exception of Italy and Spain. The draw is for registered readers only, so be sure to register if you have not done so. To be eligible please let us know what you thought of Ida’s review, and your favorite Aftelier Perfume. Draw close 12/7/2021
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