AETHER Parfums Carboneum, Ether Oxyde, Citrus Ester, Muskethanol & Rose Alcane  (Amélie Bourgeois + Anso Benhage) + The  Perfumery of Tomorrow draw

Nicolas Chabot Le Galion

Nicolas Chabot Creative Director for Le Galion and AETHER Parfums

Paris hosted a small exhibition of fashion, jewelry and perfumes last January. This exhibition was a small event, but still big enough to be the platform for brands to promote their new releases. I discovered a new perfume brand called Aether Parfums. It is owned by Creative Director Nicolas Chabot of the revived house Le Galion, which celebrates vintage style French perfumery with reformulations of well know classics and new compositions. Aether Parfums is a complete contrast, and takes its inspiration from the new wave of neo synthetics.

molecules_resized

Welcome to 21st century perfumery

Living in France is paradise for a perfumista as I am able to smell most  everything.  For some time, there has been risk takers like Geza Schoen of Escentric Molecules, who is the young father of this category. Some call it anti-perfume…., notably some fragrances by Etat Libre d’Orange, Juliette Has a Gun, Histoires de Parfums, and last year Nomenclature.  Technology is changing traditional perfume making. Molecules are all around us; many are quite expensive and  are not “cheap” synthetics. AETHER Parfumsis a modern paradigm. What does that means? It is contemporary perfume brand that uses molecules only and I would guess that many more will follow as it expands the perfumers palettes..

LEGALION perfume old hollywood

Le Galion Sortilege collage MC

Le Galion uses classic components and is a brand that debuted during the "années folles" in Paris, when modern perfumery was in bloom and led to the democratization of perfumery. The perfumer of Le Galion Paul Vacher,  became famous and Sortilege is still one of the most revered perfumes. In 2013, when Nicolas Chabot  breathed new life into the House, the fragrances were classic in feeling but still conformed to IFRA  regualtions but are nonetheless beautiful and retro.

AETHER PARFUMS CAFLEUREBON

AETHER Parfums  Carboneum, Ether Oxyde, Citrus Ester, Muskethanol and Rose Alcane display at Esxence 2016  photo Darryl Do for Cafleurebon

After two years of great success, Nicolas decided to make something completely opposite to Le Galion and the result is AETHER Parfums. Le Galion has opulent scents that are based mostly on natural ingredients and the atmosphere is the one from the past century.

iso e super molecule perfumery

Iso E Super

Aether is definitively a 2016 brand composed of 100% synthetic molecules that shows the abilities to create contemporary and advanced perfumery. The molecules include C12, Amboxan,and ISO E Super. This new olfactive vocabulary is a language a perfume lover needs to know. C12 is a carbon synthesis while ISO E Super is better known to the most readers

Carboneum aether parfums

Carboneum AETHER Parfums  photo from Esxence 2016 Darryl DO for Cafleurebon

Amélie Bourgeois and Anso Benhage are the two perfumers who have worked on the fragrances,   creating in Paris, in their Flair studio.  There are some fantastic scents within the brand. My favorite is Carboneum. Carboneum is an  unusual mix of neoprene molecule which is complex and difficult to describe. It is sweet, but not as sweet as in the smell of pralines or flowers, but an unusual sweetness, glue like. It is industrial sweetness. To me, that is the most extravagant scent of the line. I see it as the modern brother of the legendary Dior Fahrenheit. It has the edgy, metallic and petrol notes.

Vladmir Kush woods

Hardware Software by Vladmir Kush

Ether Oxyde is quite interesting because it is based on ISO E Super molecule which  is perhaps the most well known. It is transparent, woody, sweet, watery scent. It is based on ozone and oxygen notes that are soft and tender, fragile almost. It is on the trail of the great perfumes of 90s such as CK One, Kenzo or Miyake fragrances.

surreal citrus art

Citrus Ester is not a complicated scent and  smells fresh, stimulating and invigorating but still with an edge.

vladmir kush surrealpurse

Vladmir Kush Purse digitalized Mc

Muskethanol is the quintessential clean musky that reminds me of Ion Musk from Ramon Monegal. White, light, transparent and soft. It leaves a light and sweet tone on the skin

surreal rose vladmir kush

Flower Dancer by Vladmir Kush

Rose Alcane is wonderful scent that is amazing because it really smells like a rose. It is evident that it is not a real rose inside, but it gives that exact aroma never the less. It reminds me of the rose petals in biscuits which is one of my favorite treats and is the most feminine in the collection.

The perfumery of tomorrow is already the perfumery of today. That is why AETHER Parfums is a welcome addition to generation next of fragrance.

Juraj Sotosek-Rihtarec,  Guest Contributor and author  of  BL'eauOG    with  Michelyn Camen Editor in Chief

AETHER made its debut at Esxence March 2016 where I had the pleasure of meeting Nicolas and fellow blogger Juraj, I chose most of the art from surrealist Vladmir Kush

aether parfums discovery kit

Thanks to Nicolas Chabot we have a discovery set of all five AETHER PARFUMS for a registered reader anywhere in the world. To be eligible please leave a comment with which appeals to you, what you think of 100 percent synthetic perfumes and where you live. Draw closes 7/13/2016

We announce the winners only on site and our Facebook page, so like CaFleureBon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will just be spilled perfume

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *


40 comments

  • lilyd says:

    Thanks for the article. Muskethanol and Ether Oxide sound like really interesting frags to me, the latter especially, with its both woodsy and watery notes. I think synthetic perfumes are really interesting because we can truly get unusually special results from them. It’s dizzying to think of how many things there may be for us to smell! Thanks for the draw, I am in Canada.

  • Steve A says:

    The Muskethanol appeals to me. If it’s tomorrow’s musk today I want it. As far as 100% synthetic perfumes go I have no problem at all with them. USA

  • fazalcheema says:

    Citrus ester appeals to me because it is citrus and I want to see how modern citruses smell like. I am open to 100% synthetics because they bring new variety and there are many perfumes mostly with synthetic elements that I like. I am in the US

  • Patsi says:

    Citrus Ester sounds lovely to me. I’m all for trying new things and experimentation with synthetic fragrances sounds pretty cool. Its good to push the imagination. I am in the UK and thanks for the draw.

  • ron payne says:

    Ether Oxyde sounds like a must-try. I kept thinking of Odeur 53 as I read this–it still challenges every time I wear it (I’m on my third bottle). I’m in the US.

  • Hootlia says:

    Rose Alcane appeals to me most of all. I love rose and am curious to smell a high quality synthetic. I tend to go for more natural perfumes, but think that synthetics have made so many more scents available to us now. It’s wonderful that they’ve been able to produce synthetic versions of some ingredients that we can no longer use or are in short supply like natural musk or ambergris. I’m curious to try Aether to experience high quality synthetics.

    I live in Canada, thanks.

  • Mel says:

    Carboneum and Rose Alcane looks good. I’m ok with synthetics in perfume; they have really broadened the artistic palette.

    I live in Singapore

  • Iuno Feronia says:

    Thanks for this article and for the draw. I am normally a Lover of naturla and organic cosmetics – also scents – but I would love to try one of These – also to see the artistry with which they are made.

    I live in the EU

  • Anita says:

    I am a big fan of escentric 01 so I obviously don’t mind synthetic perfumes
    Looking for a lovely rose fragrance so Rose Alcane appeals to me as well as ether oxide
    Ps I am using that painting of Vladmir Kush purse as a screen saver
    USA reader

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    Thank you for the article! Carboneum appeals to me, with the idea of its sweet/industrial duality (and I’d love to try anything with a familial relationship to Fahrenheit). Rose Alcane also sounds wonderful. As for synthetic perfumes–I know high-quality naturals are so often lifted up in this business and synth molecules get a bad rep, because a lot of companies use nasty or cheap ones to cut costs…yet high quality synthetics are so important! Where would we be now without cruelty-free synthetic musks and civet and the like? I like to think of it as a different genre of the same art…well put-together collage and mixed-media art can be just as gorgeous as a classical oil painting!

    Thanks for the draw. I’m in the US.

  • Maureen Ruf says:

    Thanks for the article and the draw. I would love to try the Rose Alcane and the Cistrus Ester, as I love citrus scents for summer. i have no problem with synthetics, being a Chanel girl from way back. I am in the USA.

  • EstherHebe says:

    Thanks for looking inside the world of synthetics…I think that I like the Carboneum because it seems a little bit simmular to Fahrenheit and it’s the most extreme synthetic parfume and I love extreme perfumes. I don’t no if I like synthetics because I never try it before…so if I get the possibility to try the Aether perfumes than I can make up my mind about synthetics….I’m in the Netherlands

  • Lori L says:

    Thanks so much for an interesting article on synthetics! I am a fan of Essential Molecule 01 and I can’t wait to try Aether. I would love to try Rose Alcane, Citrus Ester, and Carboneum. I live in the US and thanks for the draw! 🙂

  • Iphigenia says:

    I would love to experience Rose Alcane and Citrus Esther.
    I am a big fan of essential molecule 01 so I have no problem with 100% synthetic perfumes as long as they are exceptional!
    I am a registered reader living in EU.
    Thank you for the lovely review and draw.

  • Systeme D says:

    Carboneum sounds amazing. “Industrial sweetness” with metallic and petrol notes? I have to get my nose on it! (I admit I love the scent of gasoline.)

    I think that synthetics are a crucial part of perfumery, and I believe that used wisely, synthetics can be wonderful — either on their own, or in limited amounts to enhance mostly natural fragrances. I think Laurie Erickson is a genius in the latter arena, and Geza Schoen is a master of the former.

    Many thanks to Nicholas Chabot for this sample set!

    I am in the US.

  • SniffR says:

    I’m not sure how I feel about all-synthetic perfumes. I know that I like ambroxan as part of a blend but I am wary of single-molecule scents. Rose Alcane is the one that appeals the most to me. Love the Victor Kush images, especially the purse. I am in the USA.

  • Cynthia says:

    The rose one sounds good to me, as I’m a rose lover. I am open to trying anything. Synthetics and naturals both have their high and low points. USA

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    Thanks for the informative article.
    Synthetic molecules are by no means bad; they are the heart of modern perfumery. The key to Chanel No. 5, for example, is a molecule called aldehyde, first synthesized in the 1880s. Shalimar, created in 1925, is powered by the synthetic 3-methoxy-4-hydroxy-benzaldehyde.
    Earlier perfumes, then Modern perfumery & now Advanced Perfumery……..I think there is no harm in the use of synthetic molecules in perfumery.
    Carboneum and Ether Oxyde are appealing to me.
    Thanks for the draw.
    I live in Peshawar, Paklistan

  • Salim Khattak says:

    Many Thanks for an interesting article on synthetic molecules. Whether natural or synthetic, if it is right to my taste, smells good and boost the mood are acceptable and attractive to me.
    Thanks for the gorgeous draw.
    I belongs to a warm place so Citrus Ester suits me.
    From: Pakistan

  • sserser says:

    Rose Alcane sounds incredible! Synthetic perfumes are great because they’re not as easy to ‘identify’, in the sense that we seem more familiar with natural perfumes since they’re made from things that are more commonly found around us. I’m in Canada. Thanks!

  • MariaA says:

    Carboneum must be fantastic!! I love industrial smells and synthetic molecules can really create new levels of expression for perfumers. would really love to try these new scents and also see how these experiments would evolve! Im in the UK

  • TolisGR says:

    All fragrances are very promising but if i have to choose one i will pick Citrus Ester.I really love fresh fragrances.I dont have any problem with synthetic perfumes if i like ths smell.I live in Greece!!Ty for the draw!!!

  • pursejunkie says:

    I love synthetics and I’m not ashamed to say it! Carboneum sounds like the one for me, since I am a great fan of CdG EDP and of Demeter’s Latex.

    U.S.

  • aire says:

    I sometimes feel torn between my deep love for all natural fragrances and the curiosity about how substances that have not existed before can smell like and if they can make really good perfumes. And some of them are really interesting, even if not wearable.
    I like the description of Rose Alcane. I am very curious of this “artificial rose” that smells like a rose. I live in the EU.

  • echinacea says:

    It’s a great choice to illustrate an article about synthetic perfumes with surrealist works. For me, this fragrances are exactly what surreralism is to reality: they create a whole new universe, sometimes parallel to ours, sometimes completely strange and distant, but so interesting! I remember my first adventure with synthetic fragrances, it was Comme des Garcons synthetic series. It was a big WOW! Soda! Tar! Garage! So strange, so tempting, so intimidating… I was in a real “love-hate” relationship with these scents, obsessively sniffing my samples every day, but being reluctant to really wear them.
    I think today, when discovering new synthetic scents, first thing I would do is testing them generously on my skin.

    I would love to test all of the scents mentionned, especially Carboneum. I think I am ready for “industrial sweetness” now. Thank you for the draw! I’m from the EU.

  • Diana Devlin says:

    This is an interesting concept. I actually have no issues with completely synthetic ingredient notes. If they’re able to successfully recreate a note, I’d be all for it. I like the sound of Muskethanol the best.
    I live in the U.S.

  • Donna S says:

    Great read – thanks! I’m drawn toward Ether Oxyde and the Citrus Ester. Both sound refreshing – which I have been on a kick with lately. Synthetics are another avenue for creativity, discovery and just taking the wonderful worth of perfumery to another concept level. I think what is out there is without bounds. So bring it on! the more the merrier 🙂 thanks for the draw opportunity. i’m registered and in the US.

  • openmind says:

    Ether Oxyde sounds most interesting to me. I like new ideas and unusual approaches to perfume making. Man-made molecules are not something worse or more “chemical” than these created by nature. It’s all chemistry. Thank you for the draw! EU.

  • cinnamon tree says:

    I have always been in love with natural, eco perfumes. I can’t even imagine the synthetic scent of rose, which makes me even more curious. Synthetic perfumes are a totally new world for me. I’m not sure if I am going to like it, but I want to know it.

    I live in the EU and thank you for the draw.

  • Toblerone says:

    I sometimes hear my friends complaining about some perfume that it “smells of something chemical, artificial”. I personally think that they rather speak of some unpleasant, unbalanced composition that cause an impression of a disharmonious mixture of random notes. We often asociate harmony with something natural, but synthetic composition can be as well-balanced and beautiful. I would love to try Aether perfumes, especially Muskethanol and Carboneum. I am a registered reader and I live in the EU.

  • teresa310 says:

    Ether Oxyde and Carbonuem sound great. I love to test new scents, the stranger the better. I have nothing against synthetics in perfume, it’s XXI century after all. Thank you for introducing Aether Parfums to the readers.

    (EU)

  • mozaik says:

    I love every kind of rose in perfumes, so I would be extremely happy to have the opportunity to try synthetic rose that smells like a rose. Ether Oxyde also sounds lovely. I think that synthetic scents can be as pretty as natural ones – I love ISO E Super. Great article and thank you for the draw. I am in the EU.

  • hvit says:

    I have recently begun my adventurous friendship with niche fragrances and so far I know only two synthetic ingredients I can recognize: ambroxan and Iso e super. I love them! They too create transparent, woody, sweet, and watery impression, so if Ether Oxyde is similar, I will love it too. I would never say no to syntethic ingredients, they really bring a new perspective to perfume.

    Thank you for the article and the draw. I live in Norway.

  • FilM says:

    For me it doesn’t matter if the ingredients are natural or synthetic, if I like the perfume. Aether fragrances look very promising, especially Carboneum and Muskethanol… but I want to try them all. Thank you for the opportunity. I am in the EU.

  • sea says:

    I love the purse!!

    As for the perfumes, I think I would like most Rose Alcane and Carboneum. I didn’t have the opportunity of testing 100% synthetic perfumes and I would like to give it a chance. I love natural scents, but I am open to new experiences and fragrances.

    Thanks for the draw! Europe.

  • Greg Sh says:

    I have no problem with 100% synthetics. Fragrance is meant to connect to us and make us feel a certain way. No matter what is in it. I’m in Canada and thanks for the draw!

  • Wayne Hollander says:

    I think if I had to choose just one based on the descriptions, it would be Muskethanol…..but really, they all sound pretty lovely. I can’t imagine why anyone would object to 100% synthetic fragrance – so long as it smells nice why should it matter? Cheers from NYC/NY!

  • Miss Almond says:

    Now I am thinking how industrial sweetness smells like? And how a scent can at the same time be something we recognize as a rose scent but can smell that there is no real rose inside? I think it’s great that the very idea of synthetic perfumes inspires so many questions that I can’t wait to test this series. I live in the EU and thank you for the draw!

  • Vick G says:

    Citrus Ester sounds incredible, as I look deeper into it. I love citrus fragrances so that one definitely has my interest.

    I don’t think I’ve ever tried a 100% synthetic fragrance so it would be fun to test it out.

    I’m a Canadian reader and thanks for the draw.

  • allaces says:

    Thank you for the article and information. all of these sound interesting, based on the fragrances they are compared to. Like industrial sweetness like Fahrenheit:) Im not opposed to synthetic fragrances as long as the synthetic ingredients pose no health risk. Would love to test these out:) Im in the USA thanks for the chance:)