“In the arms of the angel
Fly away from here
From this dark, cold, hotel room
And the endlessness that you fear
You are pulled from the wreckage
Of your silent reverie
You’re in the arms of the angel
May you find some comfort here.” ~ Angel, written by Christopher A. Stewart / James Quenton Wright / Mariah Carey
Amber won the 2014 Art and Olfaction award for the perfume “John Frum” photo courtesy Ellen Covey
Art and Olfaction award winning artisanal perfumer Amber Jobin of Aether Arts Perfume has been devoting creative time during the pandemic contemplating the nature of relationship, space, and intimacy. In her most recent and all-natural musk perfume CONTACT (No.2 in her Pandemic Trilogy, the first being The Space Between) she expresses the all-too-human need for actual personal touch – the reaffirming pressing of the flesh, ability to experience the changes of expression close up as opposed to the ever-increasing virtual existence which we have been forced to live of late. We are, essentially – starved for intimacies which we took for granted; even a handshake feels luxurious.
To quote Amber: “An all-natural musk began as a longing to touch those we love, to comfort and hold them close. It grew into a desire to know and understand my fellow human beings. A single shared idea, a single point of contact, can be the start of a mutual respect that may one day blossom into a realization of our shared humanity. In creating CONTACT, I wanted to express comfort and hope, a way to hug yourself until we can hug each other.”
still from Lilya 4-Ever 2002
I couldn’t agree more. In the clinical care-giving environment I try to convey a sense of quiet (insidious) wellbeing through any number of subtle, comforting perfumes which murmur (rather than trumpet) my intentions. In spite of masks, face shields, gowns and gloves, there is hand holding, stroking. Yes, I embrace those of my friends who welcome it; it keeps us sane. Otherwise, I keep a respectful distance (one does well to intuit the comfort tolerance of others so that they feel safe). I have to use my voice to caress, reassure and comfort instead of my hands or body – when I really want to utilize all of myself. It deeply saddens me. Never mind those friends who cannot sit at table, curl up on the sofa and share stories, secrets, snuggle. Actual visits…
Aether Arts Perfume CONTACT provides us with a compellingly delicate yet tenacious skin scent of an embrace, enveloping and gracious. It’s the sort of perfume that I’d ideally enjoy bathing myself in liberally for the pure pleasure of it. Roll around in it, bask in it. As you’re likely aware, most of Amber’s fragrances come in a rollerball format which precludes that sort of indulgence; a newer sprayable version is available, but only in 10 ml quantities – which is wonderful but wouldn’t last me very long, given my hedonistic bent. This small detail aside, I can attest that it is everything it’s cooked up to be. I adore animalic musks to begin with, but not those which smell formulaic, boring or brash without redeeming fascination to justify the composition’s boldness. I appreciate the artistry employed here; creating something unique which works is no simple task – and CONTACT succeeds (for me) where others fail. Here’s why.
film still from the movie Michael 1996, John Travolta
Softly, softly we approach earthiness from the lovely carrot seed standpoint; it arrives hand in hand with a creamy peach mélange kissed with the tiniest touch of coconut CO2 for emphasis – but not so much as to evoke suntan lotion of any kind. Fruit mélanges most often come from France and they are delectable, truthful and (I believe) irreplaceable in any perfumer’s organ, for they provide a veracity that isn’t easily duplicated otherwise. So we’re sitting pretty right from the beginning – no brow-beating fruit, overbearing tropical notes, and discernment is the order of the day. Amber utilizes a sighingly lovely jasmine musk attar where sambac reigns, distilled with the traditional sandalwood and embellished with ambrette’s floral stable-like botanical musk. Calamus (aka sweet flag) is a compelling addition because of its complex scent profile: earthily verdant, somewhat buttery and spicy (but it can be perceived as foul without dilution); liatrix (or deertongue) possesses beautiful coumarinic tones redolent of sun-dried hay, tobacco, with tonka and herbal resonances. The base is composed of all manner of precious things – rich cistus labdanum; piquant white pepper’s spicy mustiness; black cumin’s lemony/caraway/spicy/sweaty allure; beeswax’s honeyed furry underbelly notes; African stone and muskrat (apparently, muskrat tinctures smell remarkably fresh and tinged with aniseed!) tinctures; the mysterious beauty of mushroom absolute and orris’s silvered presence. It may seem hard to imagine all of this in concert, but the end result is magical.
I surely hope the day comes soonest when we can gather together once more and relish the real intimacy for which we pine. Until then, Amber Jobin offers us her tenderness and compassion bottled. Notes: carrot seed, peach mélange, coconut CO2, jasmine sambac, ambrette, sandalwood, calamus root, liatrix, cistus labdanum, white pepper, black cumin CO2, beeswax, mushroom absolute, African stone tincture, muskrat tincture, orris root.
My sample provided by the perfumer – I love it! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor
Thanks to the generosity of Amber Jobin we have a 10 ml spray of Aether Arts Perfume CONTACT for one registered reader globally. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what appeals to you about Ida’s review and where you live. Who do you want to hug right now that is far from you. Draw closes 2/26/22
Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebon @idameister @aetherartsperfume
We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like Çafleurebon and use our blog feed… or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume