Abel Odor Cyan Nori© courtesy of Abel Odor

 

“Did sea define the land or land the sea?

Each drew new meaning from the waves’ collision.

Sea broke on land to full identity.” ~ from Lovers on Aran by Seamus Heaney

Complex emotions surge within me as I first spray Abel Odor’s latest release, Cyan Nori. The perfume’s initial salinity pounces out of the flacon, swirled in a faintly floral mist; it trails the mineralic in its wake. I thought: Seamus Heaney and the sea.

©courtesy of Abel Odor

This perfume smells thoroughly modern while concomitantly whispering of primaeval oceans. For me, verse of the Northern Irish Nobel-prize winning bard and perfume were inseparable, of a piece. Full of contradictions, Abel Odor Cyan Nori had my full attention: flinty and serene, wild, untamed and civil; sea or land or both?

photo courtesy of Abel Odor

Cyan is a blue-green hue, often of light to medium intensity; nori is an edible sea vegetable (seaweed) which grows not only in China and Japan, but also along France’s Brittany coastline. Nori is well known to many in its toasted state, where it is used to garnish dishes and to roll sushi. Since nori is a red algae which turns green when boiled – I perceive Cyan Nori as a briny Atlantis of sorts, an imagined sea-meets-sky-in-full-sight-of-land fragrance.

 Isaac Sinclair and Frances Shoemack

Cyan Nori was born in isolation, yet it flourished. Master Perfumer Isaac Sinclair (trained in Paris and Milan) lives in Brazil and Creative Director Frances Shoemack is now recently settled in Wellington (she was in Amsterdam); both are native New Zealanders. These days it has not been possible to collaborate in person – so the entire process was kept alive virtually and by mail. The result is a subtle fragrance teeming with energy which opens with a sparkling sun-drenched saltiness and dries down to a contemplative skin scent full of depth. Creativity traversing continents and oceans…

Abel Odor’s packaging is recyclable with no plastic waste © courtesy of Abel Odor

Both Frances and Isaac feel strongly about transparency, sustainability and the welfare of our natural resources – water among them. Apparently synthetic musks so often utilized in the fragrance industry are non-biodegradable and non-renewable; they find their way into our oceans and ocean life. By utilizing plant-derived components such as ambrettolide, ambroxan and hexenol cis-3 we benefit our ecosystem (This is true of the brand’s dedication to ecologically responsible sourcing and materials in ALL of their perfumes. On their website they list all components and their sources for every fragrance they offer.). This is why they continue to construct packaging which is more readily recyclable and no plastic waste. Every bit helps.

 

 

Abel Odor Cyan Nori© courtesy of Abel Odor

Abel Odor Cyan Nori explodes upon the scene with a palpably briny radiance – as if there is crunchy sea salt circling the rim of your magarita glass, seaweed ribbons floating in it, seasoned with the sunshine of fresh, champagne-like citrus and aldehydes. It is a completely umami experience with a twist. You smell the similarities between mushroom and nori accented with a sliver of tangerine peel, a tonic dollop of bergamot. The potion is delicious and odd, embellished by the insinuation of a peachy kiss (those C-14 aldehydes in action, fatty and lactonic). A green aspect enhances other notes; it comes from plant-derived hexenol cis-3; and delivers a grassy, raw herbal/ vegetal tone which Abel Odor’s website characterizes as a ‘green tea’ note. The ongoing lullaby of the oceans is persistent, enabled by Ambroxan® (plant-derived) –  which is possessed of a potent saline ambergris tinted with leathery dry woodiness; it compliments nori absolute’s intensity.

 I found myself increasingly intrigued each time I sampled Abel Odor Cyan Nori; it is a perfume which grows on one and feels vital and immediate, but one which does best as a try-before-you-buy. Perhaps, like myself – you might need to take time to truly appreciate it. Be patient and you will be rewarded.

Notes: bergamot, tangerine, peach (aldehyde C14),  hexenol cis-3 (plant-derived green tea note), plant derived musk (ambrettolide), nori (seaweed), Ambroxan® (plant-derived ambergris note)

 Abel Odor is a 100 PERCENT NATURAL house and was a CaFleureBon’s winner for Best Natural Perfume House of 2018. Read Ida’s review of Nurture X Grey label, Robert’s reviews of Green Cedar, Cobalt Amber and Red Santal, Danu’s reviews of Grey Labdanum  and White Vetiver. As reported by Ermano Picco in 2017 Isaac Sinclair was a pupil of Maurice Roucel). Golden Neroli was a Best of Summer 2018 pick by Danu – Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

 

My bottle was kindly provided by Europerfumes– many thanks. I’ve come to love it.  My nose is my own…

 

~ Ida Meister, Senior Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor

Abel Odor Cyan Nori

 Thanks to the generosity of Europerfumes and Abel Odor, we have a 50 ml bottle of Cyan Nori for one registered reader anywhere in the U.S., U.K., EU and New Zealand (register here if you have not already done so). Please leave a comment saying what appeals to you about Abel Odor Cyan Nori based on Ida’s review and where you live. Draw closes 11/27/2020

1% of the sale proceeds goes to supporting Sustainable Coastlines New Zealand.

Follow us on Instagram  @cafleurebon  @idameister @abelodor @francesshoemack  @1fortheplanet @plasticsoupfaoundation @official _europerfumes

Available at fine stockists including Lorde Beauty

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like ÇaFleureBon and use our Blog feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.