A retrospective of ten fragrances of the 2010s (collage by Michelyn, top ten chosen by Ermano (photos from brands and The  Great Gatsby

The start of the new decade turning the last  number in a year back to zero always brings a sense of reset, cleaning up what we  was less then appealing  from the previous ten years. Add that the past ten years seemed particularly challenging conflicts, economic crisis and climate change. So the parallel with the post WWI and the wind of light-heartedness of the roaring 1920s was a hot topic for the New Year’s wishes, even if it is February.

As for perfumery, the 1910s left an impressive trail of creativity and innovation with  Francois Coty and his Ambre antique and Chypre, Paul Poiret and Henri Alméras with Parfums de Rosine, Robert Bienaimé and Houbigant Quelque Fleurs, Jacques Guerlain with L’Heure Bleue and Mitsouko or Ernest Daltroff with Caron Narcisse Noir in 1911 and Tabac Blond just to name a few. My first post of 2020 is dedicated to ten fragrances that for me marked the last decade. This doesn’t mean necessarily mean that they are Modern Masterpieces, time will tell.Their commercial success and popularity, often backed by powerful advertising made them highly influential and led to countless “imitations”.

Creed Aventus (2010)

Let’s face it: like it or not, Aventus deserves respect. First of all, it pulled the House of Creed off the dusty shelves of British posh imagery and brought the brand to young men as quickly as the famous horse of Napoleon Bonaparte. Then it became a blockbuster bridging the sophistication of classic fougères with the fruity tartness of pineapple,  and powerful dry ambers so valued for their mass appeal in commercial fragrances. Aventus is probably the most praised perfume among young guys on the web for the confidence it gives them and the approval by the feminine public. It’s no mystery its powerful sillage clearly marked it as one of the most coveted masculine fragrances of the last decade.

 Editions de parfums Frédéric Malle Portrait of a Lady

Editions de parfums Frédéric Malle Portrait of a Lady (2010)

Rose and patchouli is a popular combination as they both share various facets that work well together, from the green boost on top, to the powdery tobacco hue.  Only a Master Perfumer like Dominique Ropion could write new music for them, and in fact a new story. The metallic greenery on top boosted by a good amount of rose oxide immediately conveys something oddly unripe, halfway between a rose and a red berry that soon unfolds such a boozy, spiced punch of patchouli Coeur and ambery woods. So powerful and unique, Portrait of a Lady is a reference for dry roses and certainly belongs in my top ten perfumes of the 2010s.

 Bleu de Chanel

Bleu de Chanel edt (2010)

With IFRA regulations all but eliminating classic fourgères “classics”, the quest for a new men’s fougère saw various brands rediscovering lavender and aromatic notes. Jacques Polge created with his last masculine fragrance, the new standard at Chanel. Classier than fruity neo-fougères, Bleu de Chanel conveys a sporty sensation, yet a polished refinement. The pairing of classic fougère citrus and aromatic top notes with beautiful lavender here is morphed to a chic clubbing juice by a pinch of clean patchouli, vetiver and a load of salty ambroxan to please the performance junkies.  A favorite of many and it is one of my ten most impactful men’s fragrance of the past decade.

 Cartier Baiser vole

Cartier Baiser Volé (2011)

I love white lilies. The flower in nature has such a refined simplicity with its rosy, vanillic sweetness gilded in indoles and a pinch of spices. With Cartier Baiser Volé the talented Mathilde Laurent succeeded in channeling the tender part of the flower to render a neo-romantic floral. Its milky powdery nuances redolent of luxe  skincare, marked a new era of feminine sophistication.  Certainly an easy pick for my  picks for the ten fragrances of the 2010s.

 Lancome La vie est belle

Lancôme La Vie est Belle edp (2012)

The press previews Lancôme used for launch of La Vie est Belle certainly contributed to it becoming a hit. Three star perfumers were enlisted: Anne Flipo, Dominque Ropion and Olivier Polge. 5000 trials (according to my sources) and mega star Julia Roberts all came into play. Sticky fruitchouli meets ionone-laden floral: the heiress of Thierry Mugler Angel is born. La Vie est Belle is more romantic then 1992’s Angel  and has a cosmetic iris note that balances the powerful candy shop underneath.  It has a stellar performance  and sillage which is boosted by technical ambers and fruity musks that screams “life is beautiful when you don’t pass unnoticed”.

Armani Sì edp (2013)

After a slew of uninspired launches and flankers by Armani, I was so surprised by Sì. Firstly, the marketing went against type-the refined, charismatic woman embodied by Cate Blanchett speaking Italian. Not a common move in a market where everybody is targeting millennial women.  Mane Perfumer Julie Massé  composes a fragrance around a luscious blackcurrant syrup note; halfway between woody-oriental and modern chypre. The similarity to The Different Company Sublime Balkiss can be clearly sensed, but Sì fills a gap that was really missing in the mass market, a grown up, cheerful and clever perfume that gained immediate success.

Dior Sauvage edt (2015)

Sleeker, spicier and drier with its huge load of ambroxan (so explicit it’s even declared among the first notes listed), Dior Sauvage takes the Bleu de Chanel neo-fougère theme to a molecular level. The peppery, salty-green aura it exudes is so powerful (even if not so unique relying on a pretty common molecule) you can feel  the testosterone like a punch in the face.  It’s the 2010s macho scent.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 (2016)

First released as a Baccarat exclusive, Baccarat Rouge 540  then became a permanent fragrance in the Maison Francis Kurkdjian collection. This stylized fragrance takes inspiration from the 540C degrees temperature to make exclusive red crystal that Kurkdjian translates into a tremendous overdose of dry ambers rolled in cotton candy and a pinch of roasted woods. The very diffusive jasmine note adds sparkle and softens the heady concoction that’s become so popular and copied we can call it a new classic.

Gucci Bloom edp (2017)

OOPS, you did it again Mister Morillas! During the ‘90s perfumer Alberto Morillas was not the first to play marine notes, but he played them best and his Acqua di Gio pour homme became the favorite by men looking for freshness. Gucci Bloom accomplished a similar miracle, giving women a wearable yet distinctive white floral.  For me, the connection with the retro ‘70s florals like the classic Chloe is obvious, but it matches the retro glam styling by Creative Director Alessandro Michele. Its success also gave way to a slew of flankers, which are all enjoyable twists on the original.

Tom Ford Metallique / Comme des Garçons Copper (2019)
Both fragrances are out on the shelves since 2019. Nevertheless let me forecast an early trend for the 2020s – metallic soapiness will make a comeback.

Ermano Picco, Editor and Perfume expert

What did you think of Ermano’s ten fragrances that influenced the 2010s.