A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR : Keep Natural Fragrance Alive! Take a Lesson from Clorox

The trend for green is seeing red. Red ink…. Americans love to say they are eco-consciousness, but they are more dollar conscious, according to today’s New York Times Business section: “As recession gripped the country, the consumer’s love affair with green products, from recycled toilet paper to organic foods to hybrid cars, faded like a bad infatuation. While farmers’ markets and Prius sales are humming along now, household product makers like Clorox just can’t seem to persuade mainstream customers to buy green. At Church & Dwight, its Arm & Hammer Essentials multisurface cleaner, glass cleaner and laundry detergent are no longer being produced for the United States market, less than three years after they were introduced”.

In my own informal survey in an online beauty chat room, there are certain products, especially shampoo without sulfates and parabens, like (Ric Pipino’s Revolution in Cut which is what I use) that the group will buy. But eco-friendly cosmetic lines? Meh. Performance and price are driving beauty not unregulated claims of organic and natural color brands. Note: Skincare does have its fans still.

So what does that have to do with www.cafleurebon.com, perfume and natural fragrances. Some leaders in the Natural Perfumery community admit that they worry that too many new natural fragrances created by untrained perfumers will hurt not help their Art. ( Editor's Note Leader Mandy Aftel is not someone who said the above)

Natural fragrance is at its height, and in the limelight, with Mandy Aftel of Aftelier Perfumes taking three Fragrance Foundation FiFi 2011 Finalists spots of four in the Indie category (voting is open). Mandy teaches classes, a world famous author and is acknowledged as the Alice Waters of the Natural Fragrance movement by thousands of her followers in very corner of the world.

Anya McCoy of Anya’s Garden has a school for natural perfumery and is the head of The Natural Perfumer Guild . The Natural Perfumers Guild has grown and is getting high marks, for the quality perfumers who are members, the exciting multi blog internet projects (as Senior Editor and Natural perfume Ida Meister once remarked in a review of a Mystery of Musk perfumer, 'Who knew there were so many talented natural perfumers”? But there are strict standards in The Natural Perfumer's Guild and a committee that doesn’t allow anyone with a rose garden to be awarded the title of Perfumer.

Ida awarded Guild member, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, Perfumer of the Year 2010, Managing Editor Mark Behnke gave it to Pierre Guillaume and I bestowed the title on Bertrand Duchaufour. That alone from three fragrance experts should speak volumes.

There are over a dozen natural perfumers, who are self-taught and create wonderful natural fragrances and products such as Ayala Sender ( I only chose from the letter “A” in the alphabet ; can't list everyone list everyone, no room :)). Of course there are Fragrance Artists such as Liz Zorn of Soivohle, Kedra Hart of Opus Oils and the aforementioned Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes who switch palettes with and without synthetics with ease.

Last year a newbie ‘natural perfumer wannabe’ told me “My fragrances smell better than Mandy Aftel’s”. Sorry, Sir, they do not even come close. Learn your lesson from Clorox and the vastly downsized section of Sephora Natural section. It is not easy being Green. Your perfume has to hold its own..and not just because it is Natural.

This is the first Letter from the Editor for CaFleureBon which will appear monthly.

Feel free to leave a comment

Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief

Portions of the article have been altered as of 10:50 am Wednesday to reflect “misquotes” I could not figure out how to use the strike out key.. ahh word press anxiety time for some calm space.

Acknowledgement to “Sir” Hernando”

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31 comments

  • For those that were producing green products before it was trendy most knew that there would come a day when green would no longer be the kind of buzz it was for a short period. Thus the nature of a trend. It comes and goes.

    Mainstream consumers respond more to trend than they do to content in a product. The customers that flirted with purchasing big brand green products likely weren’t really interested in green other than that everyone around them seemed interested in it. This is a very flimsy thing to base a business around IMHO. Clorox and Arm and Hammer were probably less concerned about making a green product than they were about losing their core customers to REAL green brands. They had to produce a green product just so their customers wouldn’t stray and try other brands during that hot period.

    Real green customers are still avidly supporting their favorite brands of foods and lifestyle supplies, in fact some more so and despite cost. Local Harvest Grocery here in STL is a good example. They just expanded. But they are real local, real natural. Authenticity is important. Better Life Cleaning products is a St. Louis company that has been growing by leaps and bounds. Their expansion has been continuing unabated as far as I know. So while Clorox and Arm and Hammer (fake green/fake natural) have faded the REAL green continues on strong. None of the real greenies have ever trusted these big corporate brands to make products for us.

    Makeup, well I could see how that might be a luxury purchase for some. A lot of hardcore natural lifestyle folks don’t really wear a lot of makeup anyway. We tend to be a little on the, well, natural side. 😉 I go through one compact of powder a year because I put on makeup so infrequently. But I use skincare every day, twice a day.

    Just some thoughts from someone in the industry. 🙂

  • It's lovely to see that Julie, a perfumer in the Guild, was the first to post, and I second everything she said.
    As the "green" trend comes and goes, the natural perfumery community holds fast, and yes, holds many to high standards.  Mandy Aftel stressed this when she gave me the Guild, and it is at the forefront of our standards.  We have a fallback provision for someone who does not meet the minimum standards, which is we give them feedback and work with them, if they wish, to improve their perfumes and packaging.  It's that very grassroots ethic of the Guild and helping others in the community that I believe really helps the NP community.
    Thank you, Michelyn, for this very relevant and thought-provoking article.  I look forward to your monthly Letter from the Editor.

  • Being a  Perfumer in the Guild I also believe in high ethics and high standards for our natural perfumes and natural perfumers.

    Starting as an Aromatherapist almost 20 years ago I have seen companies come and go.  The true green brands will hold their own if they have a quality product.
     
    I look forward to more Letters from the Editor.  Thank you Michelyn.

    I am a self taught perfumer…my clients asked for natural fragrances and I delivered and I still do. 
    There is a definite need for all natural products and perfumes.  There are people who do not want to put the laboratory chemicals on their skin and they will pay for it.  Just like organic food…it is worth the extra money not to ingest pesticides.  Being a green company has different sides..

  • Some of the large corps that jump off and on the trend mobil think that consumers are stupid. We are not, and they are finding that out. High standards and ethics are exactly how business florish when things get rough. I have been working with essential oils for over 20 years and am amazed at some of the stuff that people try to get me to buy. Here again they think we are  ignorant. In this age of  fads and make a quick buck while you can (before people educate themselves) I am grateful for those in the NP that push us all to a higher degree of ethics. Wonderful article Michelyn '-)

  • Hi Michelyn, thanks for another thought-provoking article. I do think that something obvious has been skimmed over, however – I believe the Clorox range you mention never listed ingredients, citing them as "patent formula sensitive" – yet they market them as "eco-sensible". Well, what does that mean? I think Sandi is correct that they are banking on consumer stupidity. Why pay more for a product without being convinced of its green credentials? Same for "eco-cosmetics" – it is a meaningless marketing gimmick and a bandwagon because most of these products are no different – or only slightly different – from their cheaper chemical counterparts. When the difference is negligible or non-existent, yes, the consumer will lose interest and not buy them. But when transparency and quality are present together, I believe that consumers are prepared to pay a little more.

  • Nellie, i do agree 100% the point of the article is not just perfume but that the consumer has limited $ If the product costs more well and is the same in terms of efficacy they think twice. Natural perfumery has to hold itself to the highest standars, because there is a market among niche and affluent consumers for all things otherwise Whole foods wouldn’t be suceeding and are partly responsible for THE BOOM which started in 1990s.
    The ‘average’ middle calss by government standards person in 2010 will spend more on organic and natural products for their children and pets than on themselves. I can dig up that study, and have plenty of anecdotal.
    I live with an environmentalist who is also the Managing Director of this blog who stopped buying an co friendly detergent by marketed under Martha Stewart, who claims she tests everyhting she licenses. It didn’t get the clothes clean.
    There is a link to the fifi awards and to the NYT article for the bigger picture (embedded).

    Perfume and laundry degergent, if they are inferior overpriced and not ethical ther is little difference. As for me there is no difference between natural or perfumes with synthetics, if I dont love them I don’t buy them. Both are olfactory ARTs that have to meet my personal standards

  • Great article Michelyn, I've posted it to my page.  But I'm still stuck on this line "But there are strict standards in The Natural Perfumer's Guild and a committee that doesn’t allow anyone with a rose garden to be awarded the title of Perfumer".  This is the one line in the article that I didn't understand. Maybe it's a misprint?

  • Anu , thank you that is so wonderful that you enjoyed the article and posted it on your blog. Regarding the “line’ you are stuck on it was not a misprint, I have put you in touch with the Guild president as I am sure she will be happy to answer any questions about this matter

  • Anu, I have written you privately, but I refer anyone with that question back to what Michelyn wrote earlier in the article: "Two leaders in the Natural Perfumery community admit that they worry that too many new natural fragrances created by untrained perfumers will hurt not help their Art.
    She was referring to myself and another perfumer. An influx of untrained, ambitious perfumers into the public eye (and nose) can hurt the brand of natural perfumery."  Their perfumes tend to smell medicinal and are poorly made. 

  • Excellent points Michelyn. I have sold handmade, all natural, essential oil scented soaps at farmers markets for several years. People love to buy handmade soaps but often don’t use them (they put them in a drawer for the scent) or if they do the soaps turn into a puddle within a week. I get many people coming back surprised that our soaps often last a month or so, and I get many returning customers. People like to support green and natural but they really need to get quality and performance for it.

  • Michelyn, Who are the "Two leaders in the Natural Perfumery community admit that they worry that too many new natural fragrances created by untrained perfumers will hurt not help their Art. "  ?

  • Thank you Anya for fielding Guild questions regarding the the two perfumerleaders you mentioned One is is NOT Mandy Aftel (RETRACTED)
    Anu I am looking forward to seeing your link I liked your fb blog! you know what sulfates can do to extensions they break down and weaken the protein as a trade of for lather Revolution in Cut also uses neroli so it’s an uplifting experience

  • I have made a statement today in the article saying that there is no connection between Mandy Aftel as one of the leaders who do not ” worry that too many new natural fragrances created by untrained perfumers will hurt not help their Art”. Regarding untrained perfumers, i stand by statement published yesterday There are over a dozen natural perfumers, who are self-taught and create wonderful natural fragrances and products such as Ayala Sender ( I only chose from the letter “A” in the alphabet ; can’t list everyone list everyone, no room ). I hope this clears up any confusion and we can move forward creating and innovating

  • Michelyn, I appreciate your support of natural perfume and my work as a perfumer and educator but these are not my thoughts or my words about perfumery education. 

  • Thank you for clarifying that Anya, you always seem to say the right thing. I love being part of the guild and the guild chat group for that reason. This article really opened my eyes to the problems natural perfumery faces. I agree with the writer’s thesis, as I have smelled some raunchy natural perfumes at farmers markets. It’s easy to compare them to quality natural perfumes if you have them for reference. Quality will win out in the end, and the writer’s Clorox reference was great!

  • Greetings,
    We live in one of the best ages for natural perfumery. We have many new natural Essential oils that are available today. The success of our art has caused some problems. Our success is in great part from those who are well known here. They blazed a path into this new frontier and announced to the world by their beautifully crafted perfumes that the age of all natural is back. Mandy, Joanne, Anya and so many others that have lead by example, educating, and helping so many.
    But, with today’s trendy world some people have decided “Hey I can do that too, it’s easy”. I read an article on the internet and I can make my own perfumes…
    This is from the celebrities who want their own designer lines; because others have theirs I want mine, to the board room of large corporations who want to present the IMAGE of being green and natural, as projecting an image is far cheaper than actually doing something.
    With the easy access to materials and the power of the internet, anyone can make a perfume line and have it on the net quickly. Many of these people feel they can learn what is needed by just reading an article to be on par with people who have spent a lifetime perfecting their craft. At the farmers markets and in local stores one can see the result of this rush to fame (shame).
    These poorly made products will not last, and will be gone within a year, but alas another takes their place, and the cycle repeats.
    With this onslaught of inferior products the consumer becomes more leery of natural products. The Natural Perfumers Guild is taking the lead in setting standards of quality and ethics. The Professional perfumers are the ones who need to step up and take our craft to the next level, taking the baton from those who have went before us.
    By educating the consumer and with the guidance of our leaders who have worked so hard so we can even have this discussion here today, natural products will be more than just a trendy fad.
    Consumers will pay the price when they understand what they are getting, so one of our priorities is to educate the consumers as well as those who are learning our craft.
    Sincerely
    Larry Marsala
    Natalchemy Inc.

  • Thank you for publishing such an insightful article.  I am also a member of the NP Guild and still after many years of creating natural perfumes, I find I am still ( and hopefully will for a long time ) perfecting this art; one cannot become complacent in the learning or creating process. Again, thank you Michelyn, for sharing your thoughts on this subject.

  • I don't think  this  problem is unique to natural perfumery.  It's always hard for customers–especially when they're buying online–to gauge the good from the crud; likewise, it's hard for anyone selling anything to be noticed in a world-wide market.  On one hand you've got newcomers who are at the beginning of their professional and creative lives, whose work is still developing.  On the other hand, you've got big manufacturers with big marketing budgets who can make their products sound better than they actually are.
    I certainly understand the frustration.  I'm a soapmaker who scents only with essential oils, absolutes and floral waxes, so it irks me to see other soaps being marketed as natural when I know they're scented with synthetics. 
    But in the end, it comes down to educating consumers.  Blogs like Cafleurebon are hugely helpful.   The Natural Perfumer's Guild also points people toward perfumers who know their craft, although there are talented natural perfumers who aren't members of the guild.   And, most importantly, perfumers need to know how to write and talk about what sets their creations apart. 
    Fortunately–largely due to the online perfume community–many people interested in natural perfumes are sophisticated enough to glean a lot from an online description.  When I see things like "coconut essential oil" in ingredients lists, or perfumes without any base notes, I know to stay away.  . 
    Lastly, some of these "natural perfume wannabe's" will develop into amazing artists. Others won't, but will develop an appreciation for what goes into creating a gorgeous scent.  Even though it makes for a crowded marketplace, the heightened interest is great.
    Thanks for opening up the discussion.

  • Thank you all who commented positive or who were not in agreement

    What you don’t see are the hundreds who read this and played it safe
    by not leaving a comment. Politics do not belong in natural perfumery when it’s poised to break into the mainstream

    Do what you know in your heart to be true because you will be criticized anyway- Eleanor Roosevelt

    We have a wonderful rose review by Ida Meister take a peek

  • I posted this comment on the NP list first, partly in response to the idea that beginners would feel discouraged by the above article. It was suggested I post it here as well. (Sorry – it’s very long!)

    I’ve followed this blog post and discussion with interest. I found it a little discouraging at first, but then I had a flash of understanding.

    I’ve been playing with botanicals for around a year now (not counting a stint when I was younger) – and I have never made an actual perfume blend that smells wearable to me.

    The day before yesterday I got very excited working on something on and off for the day … By the end of the day I had come up with something (simple – just 6 components) that I actually really liked, and thought I would almost like to wear! I was thrilled to bits. Finally something promising. I got carried away imagining what I could do next.

    I thought I would spend some time tinkering with it, as I could still perceive plenty of flaws. And then I imagined that when it was perfected I would give away some vials as free ‘gifts’ along with some unrelated craft items that I sell. (I wasn’t imagining actually selling the perfume.)

    Then I read the article and felt discouraged. And the next day I tried my perfume again, and it smelled … well … stinky. So – double discouragement.

    But then I got to thinking about how perfumery is a lot like writing.

    In my professional life, I’ve worked as a writer for 20-odd years. The process you go through, as a beginner, then a more experienced practitioner must be very similar to perfumery I think. After my discouragement yesterday, I reassured myself with thoughts of how I had bounced back from so many failures as a writer over the years, perservered, and finally got to a point where I am fairly confident of my skills and able to market them without feeling like an impostor.

    If I’ve been through that process in one field, I told myself, hopefully I can do it in another. (And if not, well, it wasn’t meant to be.)

    That’s not to say writing is no longer a challenge. Writing something you are very happy with, and want to sell, is always hard work. (Not to be tossed off quickly like this email! :o)

    Learning to write [and the learning never ends] involves always looking at your work critically, opening yourself to others’ critiques regularly, and doing plenty of reading – i.e. exploring, appreciating, and trying to understand other people’s work. Above all, it involves always assuming that your own work can and should be improved. Just like perfumery, I think.

    The flash of understanding I had after reading that article is that perfumery is perhaps also like writing in that many people come to it thinking it’s easy. I suddenly understood the experienced perfumers’ frustration!

    It’s like when serious writers get together and roll their eyes about the surprisingly large number of people they meet who say, ‘Oh I’d like to write a book too, ‘ in a tone that implies it’s the easiest thing in the world, or about the people who write a terrible book and want to show it to you, as a more experienced writer, to be admired – not wanting any honest feedback. (Sometimes getting quite angry if they get it.)

    It somehow devalues all the blood, sweat and tears that you put into writing, day in, day out. I know it can sound elitist, the way writers talk about these people they meet, but it’s actually a slightly hurt feeling – that this art form that you treasure, and your work that you have poured into it, is being completely dismissed.

    In perfumery, writing, and perhaps any art form, there’s a world of difference – I think – between being a beginner who thinks your creations are instantly going to be a gift to the world, and being a beginner who knows that you’re probably going to start off pretty bad, but with hard work, learning, honest openness to criticism, and reverence for some of the great works, you can get better and better.

    On top of all that … with natural perfumery there is the additional issue that it has had to fight for respect from some quarters within the perfume world, and there is undoubtedly a fear that if too many bad products are actually on the market it gives natural perfumery a bad name. (In this sense natural perfumery is a little like some of the more maligned genres of writing where even other writers don’t actually get what goes into them … but that’s another lengthy rant!)

  • Johanna: You have the pyramid! IMHO the the top notes are talent, the heart is passion, and the base is perseverance. I was a painter, and although promising, I just didn’t have the passion.

    I was a marketing exec and was bored out of my mind; an ex boss told me that I had corporate A.D.D
    On writing– I began as a contributing editor to a print magazine seven years ago… I was a ‘newbie’ over 40 and I remember when a 25 yr old editorial assistant told me that my bombastic prose was painful to read. I read Elements of Style and kept writing.

    Some people are born with the equivalent of perfect pitch i.e. a G-d given talent like a Michelangelo or a Mozart, but for most for most of us it is “1% inspiration and 99% perspiration”. When you are ready please submit your fragrance to us. It will be a great review because you will know when you are ready. Until then you are cordially invited to be a Guest Contributor as your post is more an eloquent essay that a comment.

    PS: your fragrance probably isn’t that bad but you sound like a realistic perfectionist.

    Writing, music, art and fragrance… must evoke powerful emotions or they are just technical exercises.

  • I am re-posting my comment left on the Professional perfumers’ forum on the suggestion of Anya.
    It is interesting indeed to see how many unexperienced perfumers are attempting to enter the natural perfume market lately and how this opportunistic approach might be the demise of natural perfumery if we do not start stating out loudely that education is crucial… Education both of the consumers to differentiate between a natural smell and a non-natural one but also of the wannabe perfumers who should really learn the basics and standards of safety as a matter of priority before trying to sell their sometimes dangerous products.

    My view though is simple: in the end of the day, if your natural perfumes and products are good and well structured, if you are honest and clean on the labelling, your clients will come back, refer you and trust you. It is simple business sense! Crap products do affect the image of professionals but do not stay around for long… Natural perfumes should be synonymous with integrity and ethics. Any other approach is bound to fail!

    Isabelle

  • honestly….there is SO much roling around in my head about this topic and I will chose to stay quiet other than expressing my support of all perfumery artists, "newbies' included.  Without the excitiement and fresh expression of  these indivduals we would surely be lacking. 
    There is always the question of one's value as a perfumer and  how that is acheived. and who determines it.?
    How and where one is educated? Online, solo study, workshops, extensive 2-3 year programs?
    Aroma chems or purist?    Who do we allgn ourselves with…Guild, no Guild?
    I don't think there is any doubt that there will be poor quality natural perfumes out on the market, as are thousands more synth blends. I don't agree that this could harm the future market of NP if this was the stated concern. Safety issues are always a concern with untrained blenders but I don't think that is the issue here. 
    I'd like to think of NP as being a much larger, greater artform that can handle the details of its growth. Optimist that I am. I guess I said a bit more …but very glad the topic has come up  and I am off to enjoy Ida's words on Rose.  THAT is what it's it's all about..
    Ragna, formerly of Shasta EsScents which is now transitioning to Divne Life Perfume.;-)

  • Ragna

    The article is not endorsement of one over another You have read CaFleureBon for many months

    The letter is meant to admonish those who throw together a bunch of ingredients and call it perfume without passion but only for commercial gain
    Niche perfumery peaked In 2006 and many fragrances I wrote about are no longer around including some of my favorites like Satellite Paris there was just too many and they were lost on the shuffle
    Clorox gave up too quickly they followed the money
    There are serious creators like yourself that know these day this exists in all Arts

  • I have to say that Ragna hit the nail on the head for me. Who is it who determines each individual artist's value and ultimate title of Natural Perfumer? This is an art like anything else and not a job title you have to earn over time.  Art is subjective and, while, many may perceive some newbie's work as sophomoric at best; it is a perception.  
    If you have read Mandy's book, you know that she too started out as a neophyte (I am taking liberties, of course, as she has much skill as an artist and that makes her a unique and talented) as we all do and over time learned to create gorgeous blends. She then gifted that hard-earned knowledge to us so that we could learn in whatever way we could. I, for one, could never afford to take perfume courses and so I taught myself over the past 9 years as well as finding guidance from Mandy and Ayala. Again, art can not be deemed "art". Safety needs to be taken into consideration and that it the thing that I am concerned about whether synthetic or natural. The Guild is good about teaching those safety guidelines and we are all thankful for that hard work.
    The ones that I really worry about are the ones creating the cheap synthetic blends. They are inexpensive and everywhere I go. It is so easy to get your hands on these low-quality Fragrance Oils so more folks are popping up here than in the Natural Perfume world (see Etsy for great examples of this). Natural Perfumery work can be cost-prohibitive and that does filter out those who are not truly serious IMO.
    Again, someone deeming someone's work as real Natural Perfume is really moot here. It is all perception and when it comes down to it, we will know the difference when we smell it. If someone chooses to buy and enjoy a less than stellar blend, that is their choice. Having said that, there are so many great bloggers out there sifting through and giving us the good stuff. So, I am not worried. I am happy that NP is now back in the spotlight. This discussion shows that.
    As far as the "green" movement goes: I think the cosmetics and green cleaning products industry is overrun, but that is a whole other issue. I avoid the hype by buying products that are simple and from people I know who have great reputations. 
    Thank you for the lively discussion. Your blog is wonderful and always helps enrich the world of Perfume. <3

  • As a natural perfumer doing real natural perfumes since some years I have being observing this happens for a while now.
    I believe that the problem is of another kind, a problem of information, better said desinformation that many are receiving now over TV, magazines, blogs and reviews of perfumes that are called natural allthough they are not (and the bloggers and reviewers know this) (!).
    Mostly the media writers wish to survive and do not wish to anoy anyone doing synthetic mixed perfumes (calling them natural or describing them as such) asking about the real origine of the perfume in question.
    Due to the lack of informatioon about the difference between real natural perfumes and those so called but done with synthetics, some hidden , some not, lots of people are believing that many of those synthetic containig perfumes, because they are presented with an “all natural description “, are really natural, what is legal but misleading.
    Many, who smell for the first time in life a natural perfume believe they are not as good as those done with synthetics they believed were “natural”.
    Many uncapable newcommers trying to do a good real natural perfume offer their possible former ethics for the money or success and after have being trying for a while but not getting that nice effect (good natural perfumers can achieve easily) desperate and start using synthetics to enhance their smelling quality and be as fast as possible in the internet with a lovely collection of “natural perfumes”…
    It is nice to see this approach here and I believe that it must be much more done than this, for instance starting asking producers of the so called “natural” perfumes that they declare in an unmistakable way if they are 100% natural or not.
    This can be done, and must be done on the label, homepage and the packs, in any case visible for everybody. Who does not so must be suspicious for those good informed.
    Most companies are offering “naturals” what are not naturals. Many people who are not aware about this may believe that real natural perfumes they test are worst than other so called “natural” that are not really natural!
    Why? Beautifully (but maybe extreme dangerous man made for the consumers unknown molecules) smelling synthetics are used to sell them among people. In the most of the cases even, the so called “natural indie perfumers” do not know what is really inside the mix they buy as: Lilac, Lilly of the Valley, any Moschus ketones, etc.
    I am happy to see here at Cafleurebon a trend developing towards instructing the people how to evaluate a faked or a real natural perfume.
    I hope to see soon a special link about this in all homepages of bloggers and reviewers of perfumes.
    I believe this is the key to reveal what and how real good natural perfumes smell, what are mistakable mixed with unknown synthetic coctails (but good or nice smelling) and what real natural perfumes are bad done, poorly balanced.
    Wihtout this knowledge, this will remain the same until the definition “natural” is protected by law for perfumery as it is now for food ingredients and flavours.

  • Michelyn, thank you for your very kind comment. I like the pyramid concept. I have to say though – really mine was/is a bad perfume! 🙂 (Since I don't have as much talent at the top of the pyramid as some others, I think it will be a very long time before anything good comes of my experiments, but it's fascinating in the meantime.)
    I just wanted to add – it seems to have come across to some as if there's a feeling that all new people are being shut down? But it seems to me that the debate is much more about a discomfort with the new people who don't have strong feelings for or respect for the art (and craft)?
    In fact, you have opened up so many different interesting issues and debates with your editorial! The whole – what is good art and what is bad art –  who defines it – how much of it is subjective and how much is objective – could arguably be the biggest issue … I'm sure we could all still be debating that decades from now, in the same way this is so constantly debated around other art forms …!