New Fragrance Reviews: JUL ET MAD Bella Donna (Luca Maffei), Fugit Amor and Mon Seul Désir (Stéphanie Bakouche) 2017 + Art as Perfume Inspiration Draw

Madalina Stoica and Julien Blanchard Jul et Mad via instagram

JUL ET MAD Paris, founded in 2012 by Creative Directors Madalina Stoica-Blanchard and Julien Blanchard, debuted three new fragrances in their Les White Collection at this year's Esxence, March 23-26, 2017. 

Fugit Amor, Bella Donna and Mon Seul  Désir photo by Ermano from Esxence

A favorite representative of three different artistic mediums inspired each perfume in the trilogy: painting, sculpture and tapestry. Luca Maffei created Bella Donna, extrait de parfum, in response to the painting “La Belle Ferronnière”; the Renaissance portrait (purported to be by Leonardo da Vinci).  Stéphanie Bakouche was inspired by August Rodin's sculpture Fugit Amour and by the Flemish medieval tapestry Mon Seul Désir.

La Belle Ferronnière 

“Painting is poetry that is seen rather than felt, and poetry is painting that is felt rather than seen.” – Leonardo da Vinci

Mystery and controversy surround the ever-popular work of the Renaissance “La Belle Ferronnière”. Over the years art experts have often wondered if the beautiful lady in the portrait was really painted by Leonardo da Vinci.  Her identity has also never been truly established.  The name “Ferronnière " simply refers to the ornament she wears on her brow, a delicate chain supporting a gilded jewel, a popular fashion accessory in late 15 century Lombardi.

Luca Maffei, Madalina and Julien in front of  “La Belle Ferronnière" at the Louvre, Paris  Photo Jul Et Mad

When I look closely at the painting, the Bella Donna fragrance comes into focus.The first scent I notice is a zing of fresh ginger with a touch of citrus, portraying the almost defiant, yet vulnerable gaze of the young woman in the portrait. Sandalwood paints the color of her eyes and hair and the richly fruity, fleshy pink mulberry accord reflects the youthful warmth of her skin. Mulberry is central to my perception and understanding of this beautiful lady.  I am conscious of mulberry from the opening through the heart and well into the dry down.  At about thirty minutes I begin to notice the rusty roses that scent her gown and the delicate tracery of ribbons and embroidery in orris, jasmine and magnolia. “La Belle Ferronnière” is supported, in the painting, by a wooden balustrade.  The fragrance also seems to lean and rest on the base notes of sweet woods set off by a background of resins and musk. My experience of Bella Donna is quite intimate. The olfactory image stays with me for six hours and more, youth and mystery haunting my imagination. Notes: Bergamot, Fresh Ginger, Mulberry Accord, Magnolia Flower, Jasmine Absolute. Centifolia Rose Absolute, Orris Butter, Ylang Ylang, Sandalwood, Saffron, Benzoin, Opoponax, Labdanum and Musk.

 Francesca da Rimini and Paolo Malatesta, 1819 – Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres

The tale of Fugit Amor, the tragic love story of Paolo Malatesta and Francesca de Rimini, was immortalized by Dante Alighieri in Canto V of the Inferno from his Divine Comedy. At the very moment of their first kiss, the lovers were murdered by Francesca's husband (Paolo's oldest brother) Giovanni and were eternally damned to the second circle of hell. The sculptor Auguste Rodin revisited the love story in stone and bronze.  In 1880 he was commissioned to create La Porte de l'Enfer (The Gates of Hell), inspired by Dante's Inferno. Many of the figures created for this work became stand-alone sculptures, among them the provocative Fugit Amor. Today "Fugit Amore" appears once more, but this time as a fragrance by perfumer Stéphanie Bakouche.

Fugit amor, Auguste Rodin 1891

The spicy, peppery opening of the Fugit Amor suggests the hot wind and the heated atmosphere of the second circle in Dante's Inferno and the forever un-resolved passion of the star-crossed lovers. A strong presence of cardamom and the incense notes of resinous elimi add an otherworldly air.  The spice motif continues, but with the cool effect of carnation, rounded and smoothed with amber. Despite the elegant flow of this fragrance, I can detect the tension of opposing forces – love and lust – a burning heat and an unmistakable chill – that seem to be tearing the figures in Rodin's sculpture away from each other. The spicy carnation and ambery floral heart lasts for at least six hours. As Fugit Amor dries down I can detect a breath of cedar wood and vetiver that seem to add fuel to fires of the inferno. The sillage reflects the intimacy of the lovers, but the Fugit Amor perfume is not a transient fragrance and lasts for hours on my skin and throughout the night on clothing.Notes: Pink Pepper, Elemi, Ginger, Cardamom, Cinnamon, Carnation, Vetiver, Cedarwood, Amber and Musk.

Stephanie Bakouche and Julien Blanchard photo by Michelyn

Mon Seul Désir was created by Stéphanie Bakouche, inspired by an oft copied Flemish tapestry from the late middle ages. Mon Seul Désir is one of a group of six designs in wool, silk and gold threads referred to today as “La Dame à la Licorne. This fabric art is executed in the ornate, mille-fleur (thousand flowers) style of the late middle ages. Five of these famous tapestries are said to represent the five senses. The sixth, Mon Seul Desir, (translated "my only desire" – or very differently "by my desire alone") perhaps represents the heart – the innermost sense.

La Dame à la Licorne” – Musée de Cluny, Paris (sixth tapestry is named Mon Seul Desir just like the perfume)

The scene is set with the first spritz of Mon Seul Désir. The woody sweetness of nutmeg and the nostalgia of smoky leather transport me to another time and place, perhaps to Flanders in the late Middle Ages. Nutmeg, one of my favorite notes in perfumery, is lifted and focused with a touch of pink pepper and mandarin. In about an hour the heart of the fragrance is revealed. Golden threads of warm peachy-ripe osmanthus are woven into the dry nutty effects of coriander, while the richness of oud creates an almost courtly sense of abundance and luxury.  As Mon Seul Désir evolves the strength of the lion is apparent in the continuing presence of leather.  Wisdom and love, symbolized by the unicorn, manifest in the opulent ripeness of osmanthus. The sensuality of the rich, red background is strewn with sweet woods, amber, benzoin and musk. Mon Seul Désir entices politely and irresistibly, remaining on my skin for eight to twelve hours. Notes: Nutmeg, Mandarin, Pink Pepper, Osmanthus, Coriander, Oudh, Benzoin, Musk, Guaiac Wood, Amber and Leather Notes.

Isadora Duncan by Edward Steichen, 1923

The magic of art as inspiration never ceases to amaze me. I find it miraculous that a single artist's vision can bloom and transform from one medium to another, from one person to another, over continents and centuries.  No matter how we choose to express ourselves, whether it be in music, visual art, poetry, dance or perfume; whatever the medium, inspiration is key.  

"The artist is the only lover; he alone has the pure vision of beauty, and love is the vision of the soul when it is permitted to gaze upon immortal beauty.."-Isadora Duncan

Disclaimer:  Many thanks Indigo Perfumery for the samples of the beautiful Bella Donna, Fugit Amor and Mon Seul Désir.  Opinions are my own.

Gail Gross, Editor

Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief and closinng quote by Isadora Duncan

Photo by Ann of Indigo Perfumery

Thanks to the generosity of Indigo Perfumery(where the fragrances are making their US debut) we have a reader's choice of one 5ml Love Dose of Bella Donna, Fugit Amor or  Mon Seul Désir for one registered US reader (be sure to register or your comment will not count) and samples of the others. To be eligible, tell us what appeals to you about any of the three fragrances, based on Gail's reviews and which Love Dose you would like to win. Which art form is the inspiration for your own creativity? Draw closes June 5, 2017

We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS FEED…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

 

 

 

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16 comments

  • Rustee46 says:

    I especially appreciate the color synesthesia aspect of the Mon Seul Désir review, it helps the reader imagine the notes blending together in forming the tapestry that is the finished creation. I would love to win Mon Seul Désir or Bella Donna. I have absolutely no artistic talent myself, but do enjoy visiting art galleries and especially appreciate viewing paintings. I live in the US.

  • Diana D says:

    All 3 of these fragrances sound so intriguing! I’d have a hard time choosing, especially since I love fragrances that use cinnamon in them. But I’d go with Bella Donna because it has so many lovely florals in it.

    I use to be artistic as a young girl. I didn’t have a particular style. I liked drawing people and flowers. Nowadays, my life is so hectic, I have so little time to dabble in drawing again.

    I live in the U.S.

  • ntabassum92 says:

    Mmm, Bella Donna sounds awesome. From the name, to the way Gail connects it to the painting. I love the way dried mulberries smell, and would love to experience the note in perfumery. I would like to win Bella Donna. I think books and also film inspire my own creative thought process. They both make me thoughtful, especially ones with dark imagery.

  • Rae Lynn says:

    The imagery invoked by the painting and the scent descriptions is intriguing. Bella Donna sounds so lovely. I love how Gail compared the “wooden balustrade” that supports the painting to the “base notes of sweet woods.” I find inspiration in many places-photos, magazines, nature- are a few. I would love to win Bella Donna! I live in the US.

  • karo says:

    The comparison of the painting and Bella Donna really paints a picture of the notes and transformations of the fragrance and makes it the most appealing to me. It’s notes, particularly the Mulberry and how it stays for most of the fragrance is also a top appealing aspect of these fragrances. Bella Donna is also the fragrance that sounds the most appealing to me. Landscape Architecture, particularly rock formations, is my favorite art form. I live in the US. Thank you so much.

  • NiceVULady says:

    I find all of these appealing. Having to focus on only one is really difficult. Fugit Amor, however, really appeals to me, so that would be my selection if I was lucky enough to win. I don’t think I could only select one art form as inspirational. Each of them brings something different. Thanks for the draw. I live in the USA

  • Roger Engelhardt says:

    Mon Seul Désir!! The listed notes are some of my very favorite! Leather and oud push the right buttons for me!!
    They all sound utterly fantastic.
    The art form that moves me the most, music!!
    A big thank you to Annie at Indigo for the chance to win !!

  • Steve A says:

    The nutmeg in the Mon Seul Désir has me drawn to that one first. On the other hand everything I have tried from the Jul et Mad house has been exceptional. if chosen I’d welcome the 5ml of Mon Seul Désir. US

  • rox says:

    I wonder what the “mystery” woman from the painting would think of this fragrance. I would like to think this fragrance would bring a smile to her face. I wonder what the Jul Et Mad team would do with an American artist’s work, perhaps Georgia O’Keefe’s work? I don’t have much time for art, but I do some Spanish Retablo work with wood burning and paints. If I should be the lucky winner I would choose Mon Seul Desir, I was immediately drawn to the nutmeg and the guaiac wood. I am checking out more osmanthus since I have recently learned it smells of apricot. Thanks for the draw. I live in the US.

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    Mon Seul Desire interests me the most, with its spiciness, woodiness, and the inclusion of osmanthus, a favorite note. I loved hearing, however, of the inspiration for Fugit Amor as I love Rodin and Dante. I am generally inspired by the aesthetics and architecture of nature, though music, especially classical, provides me with rich creativity as well. I would love to win Mon Seul Desir. Thank you for the draw! I’m in the US.

  • Vahagn says:

    Thank you, Gail for your beatiful review.
    Most of all I liked your decription of Fugit – especialy ” opposing forces – love and lust “.
    Mon Seul Desire interests me too- I like woods, spices. It is hard to choose between 2 nice perfumes.
    But I would happy to win Fugit Amor!!!
    The beauty and love can be my inspiration- so many form of fine arts.
    USA, DE

  • Cynthia says:

    I love perfumes with a story inspiration behind their creation and these certainly fit the bill. I love the tie in with art inspirations. They all sound a little deep and moody and it’s hard to pick, but I think Fugit Amor would be the one I would chooose to try. Thanks for the lovely reivew, Gail. USA

  • Gypsy Parfumista says:

    They are Jul et Mad…what more do I need to know? I was gifted generous samples of the premier trio and have been in love with this line ever since…yet have not tried Aqua Sextius nor lasts year’s Secrets de Paradis Rouge. The WHite collection also is unsniffed by me, so it would be wonderful to win a Love Dose of one of these!

    I love how these are each inspired by a timeless work of art! How Gail worded her review with perfume notes for the shades and hues of the painting, spicy accords becoming infernal winds and scents “woven” together was a joy to read and made me very intrigued.

    I’m most interested in winning a 5 ml of Bella Donna, due to the mulberry note, and the seemingly rich floral and oriental panoply it contains. (Bonus? Luca Maffei!) 😉

    More than any of the other fine arts I find that music inspires my writing and my fragrant interpretations of perfume. The 8th Art (if truth be told) inspires me the most helping me to see beauty in everything even the most modest creations or mainstream synthetic releases.

    I live love and laugh in the USA

    Brightest blessings to all at Cafleurebon and a very special thanks to Indigo Perfumery! I have called there on three occasions and they are a delight to deal with!

  • tiffanie says:

    Gail makes vivid connections between Bella Dona’s fragrant notes and the painted colors and form of La Belle Ferronnière. Her skin and Renaissance era clothes were surely scented with ginger, citrus, and jasmine. It’s lovely to think that we are connected as we enjoy those fragrant notes today. Bella Donna would be the Love Dose for me. Most often I am inspired by the textile arts. Thank you for the wonderful review and the generous draw. I am in the US.

  • hotlanta linda says:

    While all sound love-ly w/ the detailed writing to a tee 🙂 we will choose Bella Donna if we win…this is a history lesson as well as scent intro – thank you! We are in the USA.

  • hofken says:

    Fugit Amor, based on. the tragic love story of Paolo Malatesta and Francesca de Rimini, appeals most to me. I’d love to wear it. I live in the US and color is the inspiration for my fragrance choices.