New Perfume Review: Phoenix Botanicals Lilac Rain (Irina Adam) + Laughing In The Purple Rain Draw

Prince by Richard Avedon

Prince by Richard Avedon

“I only wanted to one time to see you laughing
I only wanted to see you
Laughing in the purple rain.' -Prince

Irina Adam of Phoenix Botanicals

Irina Adam photo Irina Adam

New York based Irina Adam of Phoenix Botanicals is blooming again since Peach Tree Garden was a top ten finalist in 2016's Art & Olfaction Awards (Irina also was an exhibitor at the  AIX: Artisan Independent Experimental Scent Fair).

Irina adam of phoenix botanicals

Irina Adam

 She is a force, a sage, and a woodland wandering witch (a good witch); the perfumer of  Lilac Rain;  a creation inspired partially by a long, wet spring and the lilacs it brings, a dream she had of a purple blooming clove tree- complete with foggy mountain top and also as  a tribute to Prince's passing on April 21, 2016

 

Open Window, Valentin Serov, 1886 Lilacs

Open Window, Valentin Serov, 1886 Lilacs

Opening with straight up lilac (syringa vulgaris), there is a moment when that is all there is, and my brain is split: on the one side, I just want to enjoy this perfection… on the other, I am scrambling to disassemble the accord- except Irina has found a “rare and precious locally grown Lilac flower absolute.”  It's true, if it exists- you can find it in New York. The lilacs involved are from a farm upstate New York where they are enfleuraged. This enfleurage travels to South America to be processed into an absolute.  Although this process seems laborious, the essence from a lilac is still rather rare and obviously difficult to produce. Much like her Ella perfume, Lilac Rain hinges on a unique and rare oil which makes the supply limited and precious.

Mikhail Vrubel. Lilac (a fragment from the original painting). 1900. Oil on canvas

Mikhail Vrubel. Lilac (a fragment from the original painting). 1900. Oil on canvas

With body heat, Lilac Rain has moments of soft citrus, if only to usher in the next moment of floral bliss, and the most interesting clove. There is a metallic quality to some cloves, and while I usually find this off putting- Irina uses this to her advantage- making the clove tree of her dream a clear, but softened voice. It is not hard to imagine the purple blossoms she described. This quasi-aldehydic clove escorts more florals with jasmine, magnolia and an apple suggestion which brings me back to my childhood on an orchard.

 

Gustav Klimt Tree of Life 1905

Gustav Klimt Tree of Life 1905

The dry down offers a “vintage” feel, although I would suggest it is simply more mature and grown up than we are used to: tobacco, mushrooms and vetiver are a spiced earthen accord that, while is not a petrichor, will remind you of freshly showered earth and the same sense of renewal: of having hope raised high as if Irina's Lilac Rain brought out the rainbow in your heart.

notes: yellow mandarin, lilac, jasmine, clove buds, spices, tobacco, mushrooms, vetiver, benzoin.

*disclosure: my sample was provided by Phoenix Botanicals for review.

-Einsof, Natural Perfume Editor

Art Direction Michelyn Camen

Lilac Rain Phoenix Botanicals

Thanks to the generosity of Phoenix Botanicals we have  a 5mL bottles of Lilac Rain for a registered reader worldwide, (you must do this to be eligible) Please leave a comment  with what you enjoyed about Einsof's review of Lilac Rain and where you live by  8/24/2016.

We only announce winners on site and on our Facebook page- so like Cafleurebon  and use our RSS feed option … or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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33 comments

  • aire says:

    I love the “Purple rain” association! Lovely review! I am a big fan of lilac perfumes and I’d love to try Lilac Rain (wonderful name btw). Thank you for the draw. I live in the EU,

  • cinnamon tree says:

    What a wonderful description of a scent: “A spiced earthen accord that, while is not a petrichor, will remind you of freshly showered earth and the same sense of renewal: of having hope raised high as if Irina’s Lilac Rain brought out the rainbow in your heart.” I don’t know many lilac scents (I mean, with a real lilac, not some cheap synthetic imitation) and, since it is my favorite flower, I would be delighted to try this one! Thank you for the review. I am in the EU.

  • openmind says:

    I’m really curious about this mushrooms note. Is it similar to the one in L’Eau Trois by Diptyque (which is the only mushroom perfume I’ve tried so far)? I can’t imagine how mandarine, lilac and clove can smell in the presence of mushrooms. The combination seems to be very creative and I’d love to test Lilac (Mushroom 😉 Rain. I live in Europe and I hope I’ll win 🙂

  • jenbat says:

    Well who wouldn’t be interested in a perfume forged by a woodland wandering wizard?! What really peaked my interest in Einsof’s review was the description of the dry down as “tobacco, mushrooms and vetiver” as a “spiced earthen accord.” I’ve been wondering lately about how a mushroom note would work in a fragrance. I live in Canada, thanks for the draw!

  • greennote says:

    Einsof has made the perhaps unexpected mix of notes sound utterly intriguing. The process of producing the lilac absolute over two continents seems both bizarre and normal in our globalised world. I’m in Australia.

  • Elizabeth T says:

    What a beautiful review and tribute to Lilac Rain! I love the concept behind it. And as if the smell of lilac were not enough to bring one back to childhood, there is also “an apple suggestion which brings me back to my childhood on an orchard”? It sounds amazing. Thank you for the lovely review and generous draw! USA

  • fazalcheema says:

    Including Prince picture is a smart thing since he is so closely associated with the color purple. I am intrigue by Lilac Rain because it contains Lilac absolute from New York, my favorite place on earth. It is safe to say this is quite a realistic lilac perfume. I am in the US.

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    Wonderful & impressive review again. Indeed lilac essence is difficult to produce & the perfume name indicates a lot of lilac. The description of the dry down with notes as tobacco, clove buds, spices, mushrooms and vetiver as a spiced earthy accord seem amazing.
    Thanks for the generosity & draw.
    Peshawar, Pakistan

  • Timea says:

    Very nice review, like always. I have very enjoyed the whole article. This perfume sounds wonderful from the review. I would very like to try it. Thank you very much for the chance. I live in Europe.

  • Diana Devlin says:

    I love that it’s a lilac-based fragrance. I went through my collection and I don’t have any perfumes with that note in it. They drydown sounds so pretty. I’d love to be able to experience this fragrance line.
    I live in the U.S.

  • foxbins says:

    A “quasi-aldehylic clove”? This sounds wonderful, Einsof. Sign me up, please! I love lilac perfumes. I’m in the USA.

  • DGambas says:

    A very nice and poetic review. Natural perfumes always have my attention, Einsof’s reviews, too. I follow Irina’s work, so I am happy to read about the newest creation. It is not the first time that aforementioned “vintage” feel is linked to Phoenix Botanicals perfumes. I am curious how Lilac Rain pairs lilac with clove buds. Mushrooms in natural perfume guarantee an extra experience. It is interesting to read on the origin of lilac that Irina uses, its enfleurage and process of obtaining the absolute. I love lilac as a natural material in perfumery. I’m in the EU, Croatia. Thank you.

  • Rae Lynn says:

    What a great tribute to Prince! Lilac is one of my favorite flowers. I love that Phoenix Botanicals has used real lilac absolute in Lilac Rain. Your description of Arina Adam as a “woodland wandering wizard” creates an evocative image. I would love to experience this unique perfume. I live in the USA.

  • Scensodine says:

    I have no Lilac dominated perfume or any idea what lilac smells like to be honest. But as i am more and more into different kind of flowers, i am very curious for sure!.
    In this review i was instantly captured by only two words Wet Spring. I love that smell so this must be awesome too!

    Thank you for the nice draw.
    I live in the Netherlands

  • Miss Almond says:

    The notes sound very intriguing. I love the vivid description of the memories of a childhood in an orchard full of the smell of jasmine, magnolia and apple. The scent must be really beautiful. Thank you for the draw. I live in Europe.

  • Iuno Feronia says:

    I love the last sentence: “having hope raised high as if Irina’s Lilac Rain brought out the rainbow in your heart”. That should a perfume be to us.

    Thanks for the draw! i live in the EU.

  • psebi101 says:

    I don’t think it’s common to pair lilac with spices and I would like to see how it went. That mushroom/vetiver earthy accord sounds nice. I live in Europe.

  • FilM says:

    Very interesting review. I like lilac very much for its beautiful flowers and rich, hypnothizing scent. I can imagine the selection of notes in Lilac Rain accentuated the lilac richness and gave it an interesting background. I’d love to smell it. Thanks for the opportunity. I live in the EU.

  • Toblerone says:

    I am a devoted tobacco lover, so every perfume which has even a hint of tobacco in it’s a must-try for me. And when it’s illustrated with a Klimt painting, I simply can’t resist 🙂 I live in Europe and hope to win this time!

  • echinacea says:

    I really like Einsof’s reviews. They are shorter that the average on CaFleureBon, but very informative and accurate. This time I am exceptionaly excited because it is about a lilac scent. Lilac reminds me of my Grandma’s garden. I loved to sniff heavy, wet bunches of fresh lilac after the rain. From this review I guess that this is a different version of a lilac scent, more “mature” and powdery. It would be great to try it.

    Thanks for the draw, I live in the EU.

  • hvit says:

    This sounds like a perfume I would really enjoy, as much as I enjoyed the article and the description of how the perfume develops with time: “With body heat, Lilac Rain has moments of soft citrus, if only to usher in the next moment of floral bliss, and the most interesting clove. There is a metallic quality to some cloves, and while I usually find this off putting- Irina uses this to her advantage- making the clove tree of her dream a clear, but softened voice.”

    Thank you for the draw! Greetings from Norway.

  • sea says:

    A vintage side of a natural flowery fragrance sounds rather unique to me. I think I have a lot to learn and to discover about natural perfumes. I love lilacs and I’m ready to learn. I’m really curious how Lilac Rain smells like. I live in the EU.

  • hofken says:

    As always, a great Einsof review. I’d like to try Lilac Rain and bring out the rainbow in my heart. I live in the US.

  • Greg Sh says:

    I love lilac in fragrances. This was a great read and I will surely get my nose on this in the future! I’m in Canada and thanks for the draw

  • teresa 310 says:

    The notes of Lilac Rain promise a unique, fascinating journey through some contrasting olfactive areas: from lilac flower being a symbol of spring, through summery clove and apple, finally reaching the autumnal climate with its mushroom note. I guess it’s also a little androgynous, joining together liliac, tobacco, and vetyver. I cannot wait to try Lilac Rain and verify my expectations.

    (EU)

  • mozaik says:

    Apart from the perfume itself, which I am sure is lovely and that’s why I am entering this draw, I am moved by the fact it’s dedicated to Prince. I love his music, I love “Purple Rain”. I am happy that there is a fragrance that will remind me of this song. Great idea! Thank you Irina on behalf of Prince fans. EU.

  • teresa310 says:

    The notes of Lilac Rain promise a unique, fascinating journey through some contrasting olfactive areas: from lilac flower being a symbol of spring, through summery clove and apple, finally reaching the autumnal climate with its mushroom note. I guess it’s also a little androgynous, joining together lilac, tobacco, and vetyver. I cannot wait to try Lilac Rain and verify my expectations.

    (EU)

  • doveskylark says:

    I loved learning the word enfleurage! I also loved that the lilacs for this process are from upstate New York. I live in the USA.

  • Hootlia says:

    This sounds stunning! I absolutely adore both lilac and clove. Mixed with the base notes, this sounds like a fascinating scent. How interesting that the lilac comes from New York, but is processed in South America. I live in Canada, thank you.

  • Vick G says:

    This is an absolutely beautiful fragrance. I really enjoyed reading this. I think I got a real grasp of how the fragrance develops and performs.

    Thank you for the draw and I’m a Canadian reader.