Vintage Perfume Review: Prince Matchabelli Aviance (1975) “Sexy Seventies Scent”

1983 Aviance ad vintage

Aviance Night Musk 1983

When was growing up there was always certain perfumes that would stick out to me at drug stores.  Prince Matchabelli’s Aviance Night Musk and Wind Song were among them.  I was (and still am) extremely fond of both, but Aviance Night Musk was just beyond my comprehension wonderful.  It’s a glorious concoction of florals and vanilla musk that I love today as much as I did as a little pip squeak boy ogling over the perfumes at the perfume counter.   Of course, Wind Song always had a song to go with it…making it, well, something that stayed on my mind. Did you all just hear it?  I bet a few of you did…

cafleurebon vintage aviance prince matchabelli

Aaron's bottle of Aviance 

This song, however, is not the one I want to focus on.  In 1975 the house put out a perfume that really helped set the stage for the development of perfume tastes for several years to come.  In ways, the perfume was an unsung hero, her name was Aviance.  Now, I am not sure if there is really a  bonafide “definition” of what the word means, but “forward” is the definition I am going to settle with.  That one simple word says so much.

 

Comercial Retro- Aviance

Aviance Perfume Commercial "I’ve been sweet, and I’ve been good/I’ve had a whole, full day of motherhood/But I’m gonna have an Aviance night! 

Raquel welch 1970s

Raquel Welch 1970s

Like Wind Song, the marketing/advertising team made an attempt to place the perfume in the minds of the public in a certain way.  Aviance was pitched as a perfume for hard working women that deserved a little “attention” after hard day of housemaking/working.  It was the beginning of, the “you get it, girl” frame of mind.  It was one of the sexiest ads for its day and written by a woman… Lois Geraci Ernst, the C.E.O. and founder of Advertising to Women .

raquel welch  1970s mini floral

Raquel Welch 1970

The perfume itself is a Floral- Chypre hybrid.  Moreover, it’s like a best of Prince Matchabelli remix from the 1950’s updated to the mid 70’s right before the disco craze started to take off.   There are two “song” elements that play in mind when I smell Aviance; the  Floral-Aldehyde symphony of Wind Song and the romantic yet dirty Animalic and lightly green Chypre of Beloved.  For those of you not familiar with these two, they are both quite lovely and having them mixed together is pretty revolutionary.  It moved both forward and back into a new era. To start we are greeted with a blast of subtle green with aldehydes and hints of white roses, jasmine sambac, subdued bergamot, and nitro musks giving an ambrette effect (which actually reminiscent of another Prince Matchabelli creations, Golden Autumn).   The cloud that emanates is not overpowering at all, it is more seductive and very nicely done.

raquel welch 1970 myra breckinridge

Raquel Welch Myra Breckinridge 1970

The mid notes are quite interesting as the aldehydes start to fade the remainder of them is very waxy.  It’s quite distinct in this perfume.  Many times this is something that is overridden by other notes, but here the waxiness takes front and center.  Actually, it rather brazen.  Amongst this there is a certain spiciness that develops that isn’t quite that of clove, carnation, or cinnamon that is straight up addicting.  The musk is also begins morphing here becoming cleaner, yet oh so very dirty minded. 

what becomes a legend most raquel welch 1975 blackglama

Raquel Welch 1975 Blackglama Ad Campaign

As the fragrance starts to fade the animalic aspect of musk is pretty much front and center.  It’s reminiscent of what one may call “skank”, but it’s still far too clean to be a brazen whore.  I think “suggestive” is definitely the word I am looking for.  Here we also get elements of Tonka, a tiny little bit of Oak Moss and Vetiver, and a slightly creamy, but dry Sandalwood.

vintage aviance perfume cafleurebon

Photo Aviance by Aaron

Overall, I must say this perfume will go in my little book as one of my favorites from the decade of the 70’s.  Unfortunately, this perfume was one that didn’t survive, but it’ spirit still lives on Like Revlon’s Charlie before it one thing is for sure, the marketing/advertising campaign around it helped set the stage for other similar concepts a few years later. “I can bring home the bacon….” ring any bells?  I thought so.

Aaron Potterman, Contributor and Vintage Perfume Expert

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5 comments

  • fazalcheema says:

    Racquel Welch was really something which explains why she appeared in so many ads

  • thanks for your review. I love vintage perfumes 😉 and there are not so much reviews of this kind of scents…

  • I definitely remember those television commercials for Wind Song and Aviance. I was not a fan of the fragrances, though — I preferred Shiseido Zen and YSL Rive Gauche in my high school days.

    The drugstore fragrance I did wear back then was Coty’s Smitty. It had tons of oakmoss, if my scent memory is correct. (My best friend wore Charlie, and I didn’t know how to tell her that I really disliked it.)

  • Oh yes I heard the song, Aaron.
    This was a great post. A perfume for the “Real Housewives” that want some undistracted attention away from the tribe. 🙂 Something to get her mans attention without smelling like a brazen whore. Loved this article. Flashbacks for this girl, Thanks.

  • The scent of Aviance Night musk was changed many years ago, and I don’t like the new smell at all. I am looking for the “original” scent on EBay.
    Would you happen to know what year it was changed before they did away with it completely?