New Perfume Reviews: A Wing & A Prayer (Jane Cate) Summer Afternoon & Moonlight Serenade + Day Vs Night

Rose, N.Y.C, 1977 by Robert Mapplethorpe

Rose, N.Y.C, 1977 by Robert Mapplethorpe

Contrast is a powerful tool that gives definition to things both similar and opposite.  Black versus white, day versus night, they confer very different things, and yet one pales in impact and emphasis without the other to juxtapose it.  What does day become without night, or joy without sadness?  With her new release of this duo of scents, natural perfumer Jane Cate of A Wing & A Prayer Perfumes offers us two perfumes that are starkly different and yet complement each other beautifully.

Summer Roses - Edmund Blair Leighton

Summer Roses – Edmund Blair Leighton

In Summer Afternoon, a limited edition perfume, Jane Cate bottles the perfect cheerful sunny day that begs you to spray away with abandon and get lost in the moment.  The perfume was inspired by a quote from author Henry James that reads: “Summer afternoon – summer afternoon; to me those have always been the two most beautiful words in the English language.”  Conjuring for her visions of soft, sensuous roses drifting in and out, Jane created this exceptional perfume that won the gold award in Lyn Ayre's 2015 Summer Challenge.  Summer Afternoon opens with a transparent light citrus and cool green leaves having a minty edge.  It sweetens with a ripe fruity rose warmed in the sun, almost edible in scent.  A cooling refreshing breeze swishes in by way of a stunning rose geranium.  This offers welcome shade from the heat of the sun and helps transition us into bit of a forest walk, conifers intermingling with damp earth, the air still scented by the memories of the rose.  Projection and longevity are both wonderful with this scent. Notes:  Rosewood, Bergamot, Peach Isolate, Clove Bud Absolute, Lavender Absolute, Geranium Rose, Rose de Mai, Fir Absolute, Vanilla, and Patchouli in a base of Floral Alcohol.

Elizabeth McGovern as Cora, Countess of Grantham and Lily James as Lady Rose

Elizabeth McGovern as Cora, Countess of Grantham and Lily James as Lady Rose

Moonlight Serenade, drew its inspiration from the 1920’s and Downton Abbey.  For me, it brings me back to burying my nose into the graceful white trumpet of enticing but deadly Datura flower.   The history of the datura plant is as captivating as this fragrance.

datura black and white antonio mora

Datura  photo from Designstack.com

The plant is indigenous to the New World and the flowers – which are used in this perfume – exude a beautiful, narcotic scent, especially at night. Spiritual master Carlos Castaneda learned about Datura from his mentor Don Juan. The wise old brujo was never too fond of the 'devil's weed', claiming its power as like that of a woman. "She is powerful, She distorts men… She makes them weak in the middle of their great power."

Laura Carmichael, who plays Lady Edith, downton abbey

Laura Carmichael, who plays Lady Edith in Love magazine (Mert Alas, Marcus Pigott)

.A sheer powdery floral announces Moonlight Serenade’s opening, lifted by hints of spice.  It hovers on the skin, tendrils reaching out to draw others into her clutches.  The flowers swirl, one moment gardenia, the next lilac, another is rose, then heliotrope, shifting and blending always just outside the reach of recognition, taunting us to go nearer.  Like moonlight illuminating the datura’s ghostly white flowers, the florals are brightened and reflective.  It settles into a creamy, powdery wood that is romantic and comforting, yet a bit dangerous.  The longevity is good and the projection is fair, staying appropriately close to the skin. Notes: Mimosa, Cardamom, Nutmeg, Rose, Heliotrope, handcrafted Tonka Bean, and Sandalwood.

Michael Singels, Sr. Contributor and Natural Perfumery Editor

Disclosure:  Samples were provided to me by Jane Cate for review on ÇaFleureBon.

wingandaprayerperfumes

Thanks to the generosity of Jane Cate of A Wing & A Prayer, we have a draw for two USA registered  of a reader's choice  a ¼ oz perfume purse spray of either Summer Afternoon or Moonlight Serenade. You must be registered or your comment is void.  To be eligible, please tell us which of the new perfumes intrigues you most  and which you would like to win.  Draw closes 10/12/15.

 

We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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16 comments

  • Patty P. says:

    Because I enjoy the Downton Abbey show that Moonlight Serenade intrigues me the most. And yes, that’s the one I’d like to win. 🙂 US

  • Laurie says:

    I’ve purchased several fragrances from A Wing and a Prayer. They are one of my favorite Etsy sellers! I think if you like florals you will be very happy with whatever you get from them. From what I’ve tested, these tend to be very girlie fragrances, And they put so much care into their packaging. When your purchases come you’ll know what I mean. I don’t want to spoil the surprises. Anyway, I think I’d like to try Summer Afternoon because the notes of clove, lavender, and geranium rose are really calling my name. Thank you for the chance to win one of these beauties! Good luck, everyone.

  • Kim M. says:

    We can grow datura where I live — the Angel’s Trumpet flower isn’t just beautiful, but quite poisonous, too — in fact, the whole plant is deadly. I’m curious as to how this fragrance was captured in a perfume (I’m guessing the heliotrope is the most likely suspect)! As intriguing as it is, I think A Wing and a Prayer is probably the safer bet for me, and the one I’d most like to win! 🙂

    US resident.

  • Sue k says:

    Well! That’s hard to decide. My neighbor grows Datura and I have photos of the trumpets filled with bees. So a Datura fragrance is interesting to me.

  • madeleine gallay says:

    Moonlight Serenade … a darkly, almost dangerous name, suitable for the lush swirling flowers. I so so so so want this!

    Contrasts are everything, and often ironic. A fragrance to soothe and remember.

    USA, thank you.

  • Jane Cate says:

    Michael thank you so much for the beautiful way you described my newest perfumes. The article is fabulous!
    It is very much appreciated.
    Thank you too, Michelyn,for your on going support.

  • ringthing says:

    Both of these sound wonderful and I appreciate the language used in the review that conjures an image of a summer afternoon, but you had me at Downton Abbey, datura, spices and fangerous. Moonlight Serenade is the one for me. Lovely review and opportunity, thanks so much to all.

  • roxann says:

    Summer afternoon sounds the best to me. The fir, clove bud and vanilla mostly stand out to me. Thanks. Roxann

  • MikasMinion says:

    I love datura, which we used to be able to grow, and would enjoy smelling Moonlight Serenade. The notes sound gorgeous. I’m in the U.S. Thank you.

  • fazalcheema says:

    After reading this article, i have come to know Datura is a flower. My firs introduction to the word Datura was through Lutens fragrance and i thought it is just a French word. I think I have def. seen this flower in person but never realized it is poisonous. Thus, I am intrigued by Moonlight Serenade and it will also be my choice for this draw. thanks a lot for the draw. I am in the US

  • Valentine Girl says:

    I was first introduced to the books of Carlos Castaneda and his apprenticeship with Don Juan when I was a teenager. It was his writings which inspired me to major in anthropology when I went off to university; so I am drawn immediately to Moonlight Serenade. I am really curious as to exactly which species of Datura is captured in the fragrance. I find Datura metel the most fragrant and the flowers similar looking to Brugmansia species (I believe that is the one in the photo); but Datura wrightii, Datura inoxia (I personally think this was Don Juan’s Datura) & Datura stramonium (often called jimsonweed in the US) emit their own nocturnal fragrances too. I usually don’t go for powder and flower, but this one might change my mind with hints of spice and danger thrown in. Thanks for the draw. USA resident.

  • rodelinda says:

    My choice would be Moonlight Serenade because my ears perk up every time I see cardamom or nutmeg listed in a fragrance’s notes. Thanks for the drawing! I’m in the US.

  • Cynthia says:

    I love the Downtown Abbey tie in in the review! They both sound lovely but I would pick Summer Afternoon. Thank you for the draw. I am in the USA.

  • hofken says:

    Of the new perfumes, Moonlight Serenade with its “enticing but deadly Datura flower” intrigues me the most and I would like to try it. (I enjoyed the picture of “Lady Edith” looking a bit wanton.)

  • Lyn Ayre says:

    Congratulations, Jane. You’re causing quite a stir in the neighbourhood… and so you should. your perfume was just totally delightful and I loved it.
    Love Lyn