Victor Wong of Zoologist Perfumes Photo Victor Wong in Hong Kong
Zoologist Perfumes was started by Canadian Victor Wong, who hails from Toronto in 2013, following a stay in Quebec at a hotel where the smell of their complimentary soap and shampoo led him to start investigating and sampling perfume as a serious avocation. Soon, he was sampling all of the perfumes listed in Luca Turin’s book, Perfumes A-Z, following numerous fragrance blogs, (including ours of course), Basenotes and Facebook perfumista groups to learn as much as he could about olfaction and scent. His day job designing video games allowed him to save enough money to create his own line of perfumes, and he partnered with two perfumers; the award winning California perfumer Paul Kiler of PK Perfumes and Chris Bartlett, from the U.K who is the nose behind fragrances under his own brand Pell Wall (and private labels too). Zoologist Perfumes take its inspiration from the animal kingdom, offering fragrances that highlight the whimsical and natural connections between the wild kingdom and the scented world.
Zoologist Panda, Rhinoceros and Beaver Eau de Parfums fantastic labels are illustrated by Daisy Chan
They have created in their initial trio of animal-themed perfumes, Rhinoceros (enormous rum and tobacco offering) and Panda (a reedy and bright bamboo and green tea scent). But I have been on a mission. Zoologist Perfumes has done the impossible. Finally I have found a “skanky” fragrance I can enjoy without cringing. Zoologist’s Beaver perfume is a warm, slightly acrid and thoroughly pleasant scent. One that I began to imagine my inner child might smell like.
Beaver opens with a sour, impossible-to-miss castoreum note that in any other circumstance would end the exploration for me entirely. But see – Chris Bartlett is crafty. He married this overpowering note to linden blossom, and the effect is instant bliss. The combination of the light, slightly floral and sweet linden with the underlying glandular funk of castoreum turns this fragrance into a warm, inviting and approachable perfume. Listed in the top notes is also a “fresh air” accord, which aerates the other top notes and lightly frames the inherent complimentary qualities between the floral and animalic aspects.
Zoologist Beaver Perfume Digitalized by MC
The effect is stunningly paternal somehow – I more than once had the urge to cradle this scent like a newborn. The linden and castoreum accord creates a homey and warm skin feel that is irresistible. You almost want to pinch this perfume’s cheeks and make a damn fool of yourself. This newborn baby vibe is heightened by an expertly restrained cedar and soft, almost powdery vanilla layer (I instantly visualized a cedar crib and fresh baby powder, and then went back to babbling at this perfume and asking it silly questions: “Who’s a sweet and cuddly skanky animalic scent? You are! That’s right!”) There’s a hidden joy, a bubbling baby’s joy reaching out to the wearer through this scent that will instantly bring a smile to your face.
Beaver is also as soft and quiet as a sleeping child in that cedar crib. It stays very close to the skin and its power derives from the interplay between sweetness and light (fresh air accord, linden and amber), and the dusky acrid notes (iris, animal musks, castoreum, ash and smoke accords). This is not a loud perfume by any stretch. But for fans of skin scents, even bready or doughy scents, you will find something in Beaver to enjoy. I have never been a fan of anything animalic in perfumes, but I always knew that one day I’d find one that could change my mind, and allow me to appreciate their intimate and up-close qualities. Beaver is that perfume, and my inner child is happily playing with his new toy and reaching up with perspiring and pudgy hands to show me how wonderfully redolent it is.
Notes: linden blossom, fresh air, musk, light citrus, castoreum, iris, vanilla, smoke, undergrowth, animal musks, ash, cedar, amber
–Steve Johnson, Senior Contributor
Editor’s Note: I love Victor’s Blog. If you are a ÇaFleureBon reader, you know a bit about Paul Kiler, but to learn more read an Interview with Paul here. I am new to Chris Bartlett who has an extensive line and enjoyed reading an interview with Chris here
Disclosure I received my samples from Victor Wong of Zoologist Perfumes
Thanks to Zoologist Perfumes we have a worldwide draw for a deluxe sample set of Panda, Rhinoceros and Beaver for one reader worldwide. To be eligible please leave a comment on what you enjoyed about this review, where you live and which of the fragrances might appeal to you the most. Draw closes December 10, 2014
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.
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