“The Great Escape,” Carolyn Cochrane, 2012
Have you ever stood in late autumn and watched a flock of blackbirds rise in perfectly synchronized unison, aloft in search of warmer climes? Those of us who are earthbound in the northern hemisphere feel the heavy weight of gravity more this time of year, as obligations and commitments prevent us from flying towards the sun. Fortunately, Parfumerie Generale’s Private Collection L’Oiseau de Nuit by Pierre Guillaume is here to warm our souls and help our spirits soar.
“Eruption at Cotopaxi,” Frederic Edwin Church, 1855
L’Oiseau de Nuit means nightbird in French. The inspiration for it is said to be the song of nocturnal creatures, but while it has all the glamour and intrigue of an evening fragrance, its initial impression is very sunny. Though not mentioned in the official notes, I get a strong impression of juicy citrus, cut with a touch of the bitter herb of davana that throws the sweetness into sharp relief the way shadows in paintings do for light.
2011 Kohler Numi ad campaign featuring the Stahl House, designed by Pierre Koenig
Over time, the leather note takes over and reins the fragrance into definitive nighttime territory, bringing to mind sunset cocktail hours on the Pacific coast where the warm colors of the spectrum melt into the dark ocean. Imagine a boozy kiss on a mid-century sectional leather sofa as the clink of cocktail glasses peal in the background, where the warmth you feel comes directly from the person next to you.
Eventually, L’Oiseau de Nuit becomes a smooth, creamy amber with a touch of caramel. The bitterness and leather are still present, but they are submissive to the finest labdanum I have ever smelled, sweetened ever-so-slightly with benzoin. At this point it assures me that while I may miss the sun, there are very real pleasures to be had in the night.
Parfumerie Generale Private Collection L’Oiseau de Nuit, Pierre Guillaume, 2009
L’Oiseau de Nuit is part of Pierre Guillaume’s Private Collection, which could be considered the couture line of the Parfumerie Generale brand due to its purposely limited distribution. Introduced in 2009, it is not widely known even among perfumistas. This both pleases me because I have an obsession with exclusivity, and saddens me because it is one of the most straight-up gorgeous, intoxicating scents I have ever encountered. Sillage is moderate but enough to garner compliments wherever I wear it. Longevity is excellent, and through every stage of light and dark, this rare bird sings beautifully.
Notes: cistus labdanum, liqueur of davana, benzoin, leather.
This review was based on a bottle from my personal collection.
Editor’s Note: L’Oiseau de Nuit is one of my top ten favorite perfumes and I treasure my bottle. It has special meaning for me as it not only was a gift from Pierre Guillaume, but I wore it when we had dinner together during his first trip to the US in July of 2010. Because it is not part of the permanent collection, there is no number. I await the sweet song of a night bird trilling that it is no longer caged and is here to stay -Michelyn
Nancy Knows, Contributing Writer and Editor-in-Chief of Make Perfume Not War
Thanks to our friends at OsswaldNYC we have a draw for a generous sample. Please leave a comment with your favorite Parfumerie Generale Fragrance or why you are drawn to L’Oiseau de Nuit. Since we love this perfume so much, perhaps you can leave a message to include it in the permanent collection. This is for USA residents only. Draw closes October 31, 2013
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