JK DeLapp is truly a breath of fresh air to the world of natural perfumery each and every aspect of these perfumes are simply magical. All these fragrances are mixed with organic grape and grain alcohol, while some have various rare and hand-compounded oils in them. Where many a fledgling perfumer has gone from collector to student to perfumer, JK has a background in food and degrees in Chinese medicine and acupuncture. Where many perfumers began by wearing and adoring mainstream scents, this perfumer could not even wear commercial fragrances due to severe nausea and headaches resulting from sensitivity to the synthetic aroma chemicals.

JK DeLapp

Rising Phoenix Perfumery was started in 2011 by JK and his brother Kyle, originally making bespoke fragrances for people and doing fragrances for product lines for other companies. The perfumes he created were released at the Los Angeles Fragments show in June of this year. His use of specific notes, and how they are combined, reflect his degree in Masters of Science in Traditional Oriental Medicine. These scents are not only pleasing to the nose; but healing to the spirit and the mind.

His attention to detail is amazing. He has aged patchouli for years in oak wood barrels. He has reproduced the ancient Egyptian “oil of ben” and the sacred Japanese “tsubaki” oil used to polish samurai sword handles and as a beauty oil by imperial royalty on skin and hair. Perfume literally, from the Latin “per fumum” (through smoke), captures the ideal of death to life in smoke and fire that results in rebirth.

Preda is called a “rich delicious musky gourmand oriental”. That’s a bit of an understatement, if you ask me. A burst of petit grain with yellow mandarin and bergamot shine a brief citric spotlight on a full floral heart complete with delectable notes of rich coffee and decadent cocoa. Ylang and mimosa add a sunny softness to the sheer pale rose de Mai and languid jasmine accord . The cocoa, usually a base note in perfumes like Angel, shares the heart with rich and grand florals giving them a sultry mouth-watering darkness. A veritable “wolf in sheep’s clothing”, lurking beneath that sweet gourmand and demure floral exterior, is a bit of beastly oriental waiting to emerge. The mega-dose of vanilla usually found in many Orientals has been replaced here with a very healthy dose of oak-aged patchouli. It’s still here, only it’s in the chorus as opposed to being the star. The fertile earthy woodiness blends seamlessly with the smooth and luxurious smelling white sandalwood signature accord. Labdanum and benzoin make this smolder with a resinous aura. A truly unique and enticing blend of floriental and gourmand that borders on debauchery- it’s so carnal, sensual and intense; yet it never gets out of control. Sillage: very good. Longevity: great.

Green Velvet came about in an unusual way. The blend of notes in this scent was used as a template or skeleton, of sorts, for creating custom perfumes for others. It has a simple one-note green top of kaffir lime leaves and a base of vetiver, cedar moss along with the sandalwood signature accord. It was meant to be “heartless”; so the client could make up the heart, along with any additions to the top or base. While smelling many such accords, people said they wanted “THAT”, as it was. It definitely has the olfactory feel of green velvet . Despite its lack of heart notes, it comes across sharply, almost gin-like, fading to an almost translucent soft mossy/grassy smoke-kissed green skinscent that is as haunting as it is divine. This is the perfect scent to sport when humidity is high that is always well-mannered and comes across powerful yet relaxed. Sillage: close to fair. Longevity: slightly below average.

Phoenix Fougere breathes new life into the stoic old fougere structure and contains no less than 25 natural raw materials. It has the classic citric opening, bitter bergamot and zesty yuzu combined with a citrus accord hand-made by JK, giving lift to French clary sage adding that “mean green” streak all fougeres should have. The juice is almost opaque it is so dense, and it is not for the timid. The usual fern-like smell of the classic structure has been augmented by rich florals; ylang, jasmines and orange blossoms, two types of lavender, and Egyptian geraniums. The addition of davana gives a dark beauty to a usually clean and green genre, one that is typically reserved for men. Oakmoss, tonka bean, and hay join vetiver on the greener side but are balanced and strengthened by patchouli and both Indonesian and Indian sandalwoods. Classy and clean, but sexy and mean, this is a monumental blend of vintage complexity and stunning natural majesty. Sillage: Great. Longevity: outstanding, overnight plus.

More Beauty Than Beast is a spicy floral amber fragrance. This is my favorite of the five. Pink and ruby red grapefruits are spiked with allspice berries in the opening. Bright and zesty meets spicy and exotic…and this is only the initial application. A subtle floral accord of jasmine, rose and ylang is swathed in nutmeg, clove and cassis giving a dry spiciness that remains somehow full and fresh. Rosewood is the teeter-totter these contrasting notes see-saw upon, until they balance perfectly in the body of the scent. This comes across ever-so-gently animalic, due to the presence of civet musk in the finish. Vanilla, benzoin, and labdanum add warmth comfort and a subtle ambery sweetness that is held in check by crisp and intensely sharp Omani frankincense. This scent takes flowers, spices, resins and woods and wraps them in oriental opulence and downright sexy musk. Heavenly! Sillage: excellent. Longevity: very good.

Poisoned Fig is the most unique scent in the fledgling line. Real fig is not readily available to natural perfumers, so JK created this scent as his fig doppelganger. A fragrance that recalls the perfumer’s olfactory impression of a dish he enjoyed while living in Provence. Citruses in the opening keep the heart of lavender, jasmine, nutmeg, and allspice from becoming too spicy or floral. This really has the aroma of a dark pulpy fruit, without any being present. The semisweet base of tonka bean, against the backdrop of several sandalwoods and balsam fir, is kept mysterious and elegant with real oakmoss and dry vetiver. This takes a normally dry chypre-type base and adds a rich juicy fruitiness over honeyed woods. Sillage: slightly above average. Longevity: good.

Disclosure: Reviews based on samples sent to me by Rising Phoenix Perfumery.

Thanks to JK DeLapp and Rising Phoenix Perfumery we have two reader’s choice draws for a full 4mL of pure extrait.. One for our US readers and one for the rest of the world. To be eligible leave a comment naming which would be your choice and whether you are in the US or not. The draw will end September 8, 2013.

We announce the winners only onsite and on our Facebook page, so Like CaFleureBon and use our RSS option…..or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

-John Reasinger, Senior Editor