Anytime I hear about a new American line of perfumes, I get excited. Great American Scents hails from the heartland of the US (New Albany, Ohio) and has created this collection to capture the rich and fertile scents of all things growing and green. Started by Fritz Hoefer (of Fast Innovations LLC) Great American Scents has two collections, two single scents and an entire line of room sprays and candles. This is not a new idea (Bond No9 perfuming NYC, By Kilian perfuming Arabian Nights, even United Scents of America, etc.) by any means; but this is novel in that they are ALL 30 ml eau de parfum sprays for UNDER $25 USD, and they are all made in the good ‘ole US of A by Ungerer and smell great.
After receiving my requested samples (a mere three mailing days from contacting them via email) I have to say they are on top of their customer service. My first thought (fear?) after seeing the site, the bottles and the prices was: Another DEMETER?!! These are nothing like those single note, simple accord, fragrances-these are all blended well and capture the essence of their names. While they are not all natural or niche, they are definitely worth sniffing, testing and owning. These were all released this year (2013).
Tomato on the Vine by Steven Noble
Tomato Leaf was the original scent that caught my attention. Having grown up in southwestern Pennsylvania, I am very familiar with the sharp green (almost bristly) aroma of tomato leaves and have always loved it. This opens strangely. Verbena and rhubarb burst out all tart, slightly sour and green. Remaining clear and strong on the inhale one catches that unique stemmy smell on the exhale. After some dissipation of top notes, the tomato vines continue to rise and are all around you, accented with crushed greens and its tiny yellow blossoms are hinted at, with a soft olive flower. The finish is guaiac wood and moss which adds cooling shade and soft comfort while cutting through summer humidity without being heavy. Sillage: good to average. Longevity: slightly below average.
Beet Root Illustration by Susannah Blaxill
Beet Root was the other scent I looked most forward to sniffing. I love the earthiness, even in the taste, of beets. No beet root is listed, as this is a “perfumed painting” of beets roots, alongside flowers and greens. Bergamot, greens and figs open this setting a darker pulpier scene. A translucent sweetness, backlit with citrus and thick leaves, carries you into a bizarre mélange of sea lily, oleander and orange blossoms. Floral, yet almost surreal, this adds a velveteen aspect to the rooty fruitiness that mingles with the opening-without pushing it aside. The cedar rich dry down has hints of musk and just radiates subtle warmth. Osmagine this as Un Jardin Mediteranee’s American cousin; they have similar DNA, but exude totally different styles. Sillage: good. Longevity: average.
Victory Garden is named for and inspired by herb and vegetable gardens planted in the US and Canada during World Wars I & II to reduce demand on domestic food supplies during the war efforts. Bergamot, petit grain (citrus leaves) and basil enter verdantly with an underlying cool herbal quality. It begins to grow sweeter and sharper, thanks to violets and lavender with sage keeping it warmly green, aromatic and grounded. The listed base notes of mahogany and cedar are indeed “warm”; but they stand more on the borders of this garden adding an aura of nearby trees without the smell of their cut woods. Simple and unpretentious, this herb-kissed floral green scent is as charming as its namesake. Sillage: average. Longevity: slightly above average.
Orchard Blossom by Anne Duke
Orchard Blossom seeks to bottle that summer time smell of fading fruit tree blossoms that develop into sweet ripe fruits. Golden apricots, crisp apples and luscious dew fruits (large round blackberries) begin this with a definite sweetness that is cut by the tartness of the apple. The dominant notes in this are the blossoms: apple, tiare and stardust peonies. A delightful blend, they remain silken and ephemeral. This manages to mesh fruity with floral without coming anywhere near cloying or generic. A touch of orris root in the base adds an earthy kiss; as light woods and hints of musk trail behind-reminding one of those flowerless branches that will soon bear fruits. Sillage: below average. Longevity: average.
Oranges on a Branch by Winslow Homer
Sunshine Grove takes us to the more southern and western areas of our country that grow citrus fruits. Juicy oranges and sweet clementines greet the nose first with zest and sparkling flesh, while sage tempers and tames the underlying astringency. Neroli adds a sunny softness as lilies drop golden pollen about while smelling creamy yet gentle. The lemongrass blossom adds a whisper of lemony floral green without descending into the usually citronella-rich grassiness of the actual plant. Weaving the sweet and the soft together, this comes down to a soft musk rounded out by a gossamer vanilla as it is cooled by iris. Not as complex as it sounds, this captures that warm “feel good” memory of fresh oranges, warm sun, blue skies and petals on the breeze. Sillage: below average. Longevity: average.
Sweet Magnolia by Marti Bailey
Sweet Magnolia conjures up that completely southern romantic warmth of creamy honey-kissed blossoms heavy in the thick humid summer air. Not only is magnolia here, but her thicker richer sister gardenia. With just the right amounts of hyacinth’s floral fruitiness paired with lemon’s brightness and crowned with mildly bitter gardenia leaves, this saunters elegantly towards you and wraps you in a white floral embrace. The softness of lotus, the buttery fullness of gardenia and the airy warmth of magnolia melt into a delightful shower of heady sexiness and sultry charms. The lotus adds buoyancy and lifts the usually heavier gardenia, as magnolia takes it and floats it dreamily about. Our gal may be a shameless flirt and a bit of a tease, yet the base of classic sandalwood and steely orris dry down with hints of skin musk reminding us that she is every inch…a lady! Sillage: good. Longevity: above average.
Sometimes I like to save the best for last. Flowering Herbs was the scent I was least excited to try; but the one that really impressed me the most in the end. Grapefruit and apple lend tart clarity to the green herb accord in the top notes. Various savory and aromatic herbs have been cut and blended into a balanced and robust mix. Sweet sharp and soulful, these notes give the herbal quality a pungent, yet drier, quality while hyacinth lotus and peonies contribute to the “flowering” part of the name. Full yet soft and elegant this sheds layer after layer of floral beauty to stand naked under a spreading sycamore wafting just enough patchouli to capture raw and earthy yet remaining surprisingly fresh. Sillage: very good. Longevity: good.
America may be the land of the free and the home of the brave, but it is also the land of many scents and the home of some pretty impressive perfumes. All of these are marketed to women (with Tomato Leaf being the only unisex release) but, with the possible exception of Sweet Magnolia, these are all relatively safe for either gender.
Disclosure: Reviews based on samples sent to me by Great American Scents.
Thanks to the folks at Great American Scents we have two draws. For our US readers it is a reader’s choice of any full (30mL) bottle. For our international readers it is a full sample set to one winner. To be eligible leave a comment on which Great American Scent you think might be your favorite, The draw will end on July 6, 2013.
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.
-John Reasinger, Senior Editor