The fashion House of Hayari-Paris was started in 2009 by Nabil Hayari after graduating from the prestigious Haute Couture school Sup le Mode in Lyon, France and working with several other designers. Releasing designs that were meant to reflect the glamour of Hollywood they have been worn by celebrities and on the Red Carpet at prestigious events around the world. These three fragrances are Hayari’s first foray into perfumes, and they sparkle and shine with the same luxury and beauty as their dress and fashion designs. All three scents are based on white flowers and are inspired by the elegance and glamour of Paris. All are eau de parfum concentrations and, from the packaging to the flacons to the aroma of the juices, exude a blend of class, opulence and sophistication.
The bottles and scents are meant to capture the opulence of a jewel that reflects and protects the fragility of the flowers within. Each flacon has a glass cap and has 12 facets. Each unit is numbered reflecting a one-of-a-kind purchase and the box even opens like a flower. Before one even opens the bottle to spritz, you already feel elegant! Just as I am sure M. Hayari did not use inexperienced cutters and tailors to create his gorgeous fashions, he has enlisted two very well-known niche perfumers to help make his perfumes and even though I am not a big “white floral” guy-these are quite impressive and very well-done.
Broderie was inspired by embroidery and lace, as M. Hayari feels these are the most elegant and glamorous of textiles used in fashion for centuries. These materials evoke delicacy, femininity, sexiness and are very French. Sidonie Lancesseur of Robertet created this fragrance by weaving bright juicy fruits into a lace of white flowers and embroidering them to a base of warm earthy woodiness. The peach and mandarin of the opening are sweet yet airy, no sticky sweetness here just a wave of golden fruitiness that sets the stage perfectly for the deeper dry down. The white florals used here are pollen-rich lily and creamy gardenia wrapped in a thin veil of incense smoke that adds an air of mystery and the exotic.
As the top fades, it leaves a golden mist of fruity dew on the flowers as the incense begins to smolder and its wisps tug us gently into the finish of patchouli, sandalwood and amber. This perfume, like a fine piece of lace, is woven tightly and intricately, yet gently, and despite the usually heavy oriental notes it remains delicate and ethereal. This is a scent to be worn on warm summer nights, as it has body and a wonderful oriental finish yet wafts gently. Broderie never gets “in your face” and it whispers sexily, rather than being aggressive or ostentatious. This is the most demure of the three releases and has both charming presence and throughout, even the oriental last act, the other fruity and floral notes continue to swirl about hither and yon evoking hints of delicious delicacy and floral beauty. Sillage: average to slightly below. Longevity: slightly above average.
Goldy was created by Robertet’s Dorothee Piot and is a woody powdery beauty! The unusual opening of rosemary’s balsamic piney herbal aroma with bitter dry mugwort grabbed my nose and would not let go. As I smiled and closed my eyes, it was as if I was back in time-men in suits and hats, women in dresses, with matching hats and pearls spraying perfume from puffball atomizers all around them. This smells vintage AND couture! Even when the flowers appear, they are not the bombastic rose, overdose of lilies or heady orchids found in many bygone fragrances. Here tender white jasmine, crisp and clear narcissus and soft musky orange blossoms unite to form an absolutely stunning floral blend that is intriguing, and very sexy, but serious and utterly no nonsense.
The press release for this says “…evokes a wealth of influences including vintage couture, refinement and extravagance-the very definition of luxury” and I am inclined to agree. The woods of the base (cedar and sandalwood) give this an earthy strength that is completed with a generous dose of musk without ever descending into skanky. Of all three scents, this one was the most unisex and the way the woods and the herbs are balanced with the floral mélange is simply breathtaking to me. This perfume comes across as intense, without being loud or obnoxious, and is by far my favorite of the three. Though all of these are “marketed” towards women this one defies gender (in my opinion) and just smells heavenly! A true “modern vintage” scent for anyone who longs for the glamour of those days when perfume made a real statement, Goldy smells as rich as its namesake…maybe even richer! Sillage: very good. Longevity: excellent.
Only for Her was also created by Sidonie Lancesseur and is an homage to the classic elegance of French fashion and perfumes. A surprising opening of tart grapefruit paired with a silken freesia is neither too powdery nor too citric. It shimmers and shines and feels almost like silk on skin, light and smooth. It has a brightness that lifts the heart and spirit, invigorating and also strangely calming. The heart of this is composed of magnolias and white peonies. Magnolia, usually devoured in moments by my skin, underpinned by the slightly spicy peony manages to hang on and adds gentle creamy warmth to the stimulating opening. Without going all “flower shop” on you, this exudes a timeless and superb floral aura without any of the usual suspects while remaining carefree and whimsical.
This floral elegance remains for quite some time until it starts to get richer and more sensual. Sandalwood adds a warm woody embrace to the soft teasing vanillic caresses alongside naughty winks and sexy smiles from the patchouli. Sweet, woody and floral this lingers on the skin, enchanting and enticing. I can see why it was named Only for Her, as it captures many of the qualities of womanhood: strength, passion, beauty, mystery and sexiness. Without any roses, jasmine or violet (or any musk in the finish) this is, without a doubt, the most feminine of the three and presents as sexy, fresh and playful. This is a modern olfactory interpretation of the classic woman done in a classic French style for the twenty-first century gal. Sillage: good. Longevity: very good.
As always (and as many of us perfumistas already do) don’t let the marketing department tell you what you can or should wear. If I put my nose in the air (as it were) after seeing these were released and marketed “for women”, I would have truly missed out on some beautiful fragrant experiences.
Disclosure: Reviews based on samples sent to me by Hayari-Paris Perfumes via the U.S. Distributor Crafting Beauty.
Thanks to Crafting Beauty we are offering a Reader’s Choice draw for a full size 50ml flacon ($145 USD). This is an international draw open to all readers. To be eligible leave a comment with which one of the Hayari Paris fragrances would be your choice, if you win, and why. The draw will end on June 15, 2013.
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.
–John Reasinger, Senior Editor