It seems inconceivable that there can exist so many gifted natural perfumers, of whom one has never heard.
If the submission of Graines de Paradis by Sharini is a portent of things to come, the future of natural perfumery looks pretty damn sweet.
I immediately sprayed my upper arm [unscented ’real estate’ can be a real premium among addicts] , and found myself assaulted by a powerful animalic blast.
[It pleased me greatly !]
This was clearly NOT going to be a timorous, powdery musk.
From first sniff, the quality of materials was apparent, as if no expense had been spared.
Zesty top notes of white grapefruit, ginger, green mandarine, and cognac mingled with a wild cherry / rooibos red tea tincture.
The effect resembled nothing so much as the breeze before the thunderclap; I could sense the depth of what was brewing beneath.
That which followed was floral, exquisitely so.
White rose, linden, monoi, fleur d’oranger, jasmine, and broom- combining the sweet with the fresh [ for me linden can be both; broom is simply heavenly, so bright and airy, but full-bodied].
The base notes growl; I can’t express it any other way.
The use of the aged agarwood, olibanum, Australian sandalwood [ I generally find it fairly astringent compared to Mysore- but here it was tempered with many other notes], and patchouli created a very intense base.
Ambrette seeds added their singular delicate muskiness, but married with angelica, it waxed spicy / raw/ herbal; the iris and Madagascar vanilla pod tincture helped to round out this potent mélange .
I find the tenacity of Graines de Paradis remarkable.
It reminds me of how livestock smell when they return to the barn, after lolling about in summer fields to graze; their pelts redolent of sweet wildflowers and herbs, grassy, haylike sweetness blended with real animal sweat.
Please- do not be dismayed.
This is absolutely [sic] gorgeous jus, and extremely evocative.
Should you wear it to the office ?
Perhaps not- but every time you do wear it, beloved pastoral reminiscences should surround you with agrestic bliss.
It’s the real thing.
– Ida Meister, Sr. Editor
Editor's Note: The paintings are some of the works of the French Orientalist, Jean Leone Gerome, who painted alot of beasties!!!!! "Leone and lions" made good companions to Ida's piece. Jean Leone Gerome painted in the mid 1800s when there were few if any synthetics used in perfume.
Reminder: Alexandra Balahaoutis of Strange Invisble Perfumes 'Temple of Musk' is the bottle we are giving away at CaFleureBon. We will draw from among all comments on The Mystery of Musk articles at the end of the project.