CaFleureBon Profiles in American Perfumery: David Falsberg of Phoenicia Perfumes + “No Boundaries ~ No Limitations” Draw

me with blotters

David Falsberg

 Profile: I  was born into a world of excitement, social change, touches of madness and hints of brilliance on a wintry – by Seattle standards – January morning. For those keeping score I am an Aquarius with the moon in Virgo and Capricorn rising. My parents were East Coast Jewish intellectuals who migrated west for reasons I have never fully understood, although my overbearing Russian grandmother in Boston I suspect played some role in their flight. My parents impressed the importance of learning and their own commitment to social justice on me from an early age, probably before I was through teething. They also adopted some degree of love for mother earth and my mother nurtured a beautiful rose garden and my father, a stickball whiz from the streets of Brooklyn, learned how to keep our lawn trimmed and even how to change the oil on our gorgeous Rambler Ambassador.

 

falsberg family summertime mom me her parents kennebunkport maine

David with his mother and maternal grandparents

 My parents took me to see Bob Dylan and Joan Baez, brought me to civil rights marches and every summer brought me back to the East Coast where people spoke way too fast and where we would embark on a month-long New York immersion in “high culture”, days at the Museum of Modern Art, nights at Shakespeare in the Park, with meals at their favorite bargain French restaurant in between. It was a dizzying whirlwind life and at the time I really wish they had just sent me to Boy Scout camp like all the neighbors’ kids, but it certainly laid the groundwork for a strong aesthetic sensibility which coupled with the intellectual fire they had lit under my ass prepared me for my life’s pursuits and diversions.

My first memories of scent all come from my mother’s cooking. She was an exceptional chef who explored spices far beyond her cultural background, although my fondest memory is the smell of onions carmelizing in chicken fat she would laboriously render herself. Another olfactory joy was her flower garden, there’s lots of sand in Seattle soil and her roses produced odors so grand and narcotic that I could sniff them for hours or at least until the bees drove me away and then I would climb our cherry tree and gaze out on the urban horizon while drinking in the faint liquored scent of the cherry blossoms. Fragrance has always evoked strong narcotic-like sensations in me. I remember walking through fancy drug stores and opening the cosmetics bottles to smell their offerings. My first real personal scent was Cerruti by Nino Cerruti, it was launched in ’79 and had the real animalics that even now make me howl at the moon. I love me some animalics and I don’t hold back on them in my fragrance work whatsoever.

 .At 18 I was bustled off to Yale University where my education in life began and my love of formal learning moved slowly and surely to the back of the bus.  Bob Dylan’s lyrics in “Like A Rolling Stone” certainly spoke to me and many others I met along the slippery slope of life in the ‘80s.

You’ve gone to the finest school all right, Miss Lonely
But you know you only used to get juiced in it
And nobody has ever taught you how to live on the street
And now you find out you’re gonna have to get used to it…

elizabethan actor david falsberg

David Falsberg- Thespian


I managed to survive college on wits and savvy but I lived for the weekend when I could get jump on Amtrak and spend the weekend dancing and carousing. I was just another wild child, a fly on the wall of a cultural revolution where pop art and life collided and while much of my time was devoted to being a social butterfly, being on the guest list and making the scene, I did have bursts of Renaissance-like artistic productivity. I studied Elizabethan theater religiously and performed in period pieces by Moliere. I can still bow like a true 17th century gentleman, which is no mean feat in a pair of high heeled boots with a five pound ostrich feathered hat on your head. The obscurer the better, I always had nice clothes and glamorous companions

paper magazine picture of me from my column

David Falsberg, a founding editor of Paper Magazine

I wrote quite a bit, including several plays that were produced way Off Broadway; I was a founding editor of Paper magazine which is still an icon of fresh fashion both in print and online.

phoenicia launch 2

 I am glad to have witnessed and survived the era of Sex, Drugs and Rock and Roll. The nineties was so different, like swallowing a reality pill, finding a career, getting married, starting a family. My ex-wife and I decided to move back to Seattle in 1995 and raise our daughter on a street where she could run through the neighbors’ backyards and be nurtured in healthier environs. Then in 2007 the white-picket fence imploded when I contracted Stevens Johnson Syndrome from a common medication and the upper half of my body burned from the inside out. I was put into an induced coma for over three months and probably had little chance of surviving as the disease attacked me so ferociously. My skin was debrided and new skin grafted in areas where it wouldn’t grow back, my eyes and throat were severely burned although the disease never attacked my nasal passage. Miraculously I survived although my mind was scrambled eggs and I was blind for nearly a year and was unable to eat for even longer. Also my white-picket family was torn asunder. I have had dozens of medical procedures in the past six years, I barely blink at the thought of medical procedures but I have achieved a state of relative health and comfort although the bruises to the spirit run much deeper. I don’t feel comfortable speaking about the sacred but obviously my recovery is an example of divine intervention and a pig-headed will to return to a life of quality and substance. 

phoenicia launch 1

 A few years into my recovery I stumbled upon an article about burning incense. The author described the elaborate process of heating agarwood in an ash-filled bowl and I impulsively ordered all the tools of the fumigator’s trade within the hour. The art of burning has its own learning curve but I was spending my days slowly recovering in my parents’ apartment burning agarwood and resins and reading as much as I could about this fine art. Soon I was ordering oud oil and started making blends, what Arabs call mukhallats, of oud oil and other sacred essences. One day a friend asked if I could blend something practical and western, a masculine scent profile for a car-care product line and the result was quite successful. Fast forward and I am sitting in front of a make-shift perfumer’s organ slowly learning the fine art of perfume making. I chose the name Phoenicia for my brand in honor of the multitude of phoenixes who have overcame great mental and physical adversity and left their blazing marks on humanity: survivors rule!

Far NWest storyboarding a scent

Phoenicia Perfumes Concept Board-skunk? really!

 Phoenicia Perfumes was founded with the motto “No Boundaries ~ No Limitations”. My perfume lab is like a mad scientist’s, I blend for happiness and harmony, I pay homage to the classic chypre on the one hand – geez do I love high quality florals, and on the other hand I am looking for discord and discomfort that takes us out of our comfort zone if only for a four-hour journey….what do we have to lose? Right now I am in love with the scent memory of skunk spray that I would smell on the highways as we drove across the Pacific Northwest. Most of all I like being alive and being creative, pushing the envelope. I am a firm believer in the here and now.

indole  

Taking time to smell the indoles-David inhaling jasmine

American Perfumery:  First and foremost American perfumery is a democracy. Perfumers have shared so much knowledge and good will with me and I am sure they put this same love into their work. There is love in our juices, not just variations on a set of patented molecules, and there is eagerness on the part of the consumer to experience new realms and scent profiles. When I made Skin Graft, which is based on my own recollection of what happened during my coma I was afraid the back story and the strange scent profile would turn people off. The opposite is true, people really want new and provocative scent profiles and many people have taken the time to learn about my story and the political reality behind Stevens Johnson Syndrome.

 In the face of a future where corporations want to patent and control the food supply and drug companies invest heavily in shutting down diverse forms of natural healing, the return to using natural essences is a key player in a healthy future for our world and American artisans lead the way. Personally, I just get far stronger olfactory vibrations from natural essences than from synthetics. At dawn flowers scream out their scents but by dusk they grow silent, a little shot of aldehydes is like Red Bull for florals. I am currently exploring both classic and new synthetic molecules to marry with the natural so Phoenicia is heading into the realm of mixed media but always nature first. Today fragrance is a great artistic frontier and we have the opportunity to break new ground and fragrance lovers are behind this one hundred percent.

Pretty Lights My Fave American Artist

dj PRETTY LIGHTS

 Favorite American Artist:  Dance music and dance culture is still my favorite form of American art, it played an incredible role in my post-illness healing as I played familiar tunes and loops over-and-over and somehow it bolstered my courage to survive. Now I go to what my teenager (who wouldn’t be caught dead at one) calls raves. I love today’s electronic dance music which has really taken off in the States in the past decade. I especially enjoy djs who mix all genres in their sets, rock, hip hop, electronica, movie clips, the kitchen sink. Right now the dj PRETTY LIGHTS is in heavy rotation at my place. I attend a lot of electronic dance music events and Pretty Lights recently played the best set I have heard in years, mashing up house music, the Grateful Dead and so much more. His loops are so “sick” and he has an orgiastic light show synchronized to the beat for even greater sensory assault. So I like loud music and bright lights, I like big, natural vibrating scents (but also surprising subtle nuances).

 David Falsberg, Owner and Perfumer of Phoenicia Perfumes.

Editor's Note: When I read Mark Benke's review of Skin Graft, I was more than intrigued; I felt a connection that is inexplicable. We have featured 40 American perfumers and creative directors in our series CaFleureBon Profiles in Perfumery, since its inception July 4, 2011,  but for personal reasons, David's profile effected me the most… not only because of  his life threatening ordeal with Stevens Johnson Syndrome (he  was diagnosed six years yesterday), but because his story is a reminder that we all struggle with darkness in our lives . Rise from the ashes and fly like phoenixes.-Michelyn Camen, Editor-In Chief

 For more information on Stevens-Johnson Syndrome visit www.sjsupport.org

phoenicia line

For our draw, David is offering one reader a choice of  5ml bottles of Phoenicia REALOUD, SKIN GRAFT or ULTRA FLORA. To be eligible, please leave a comment with what you found fascinating about David's profile and your choice of fragrance. Draw ends April 11, 2013.

Phoenicia Perfumes are available at Blackbird Apothecary in Seattle

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40 comments

  • Ross Novak says:

    I found the most fascinating thing about David’s profile to be the way in which he used fragrance as therapy in his recovery. If selected I would be interested in RealOud. Thank you for the opportunity!

  • I’ve met David and smelled his work; he’s as unique as his intriguing creations, a true artist coming into his own through intense trial and adversity. As this profile shows he is open, enthusiastic, curious and always experimenting which I think is an excellent recipe for a perfumer and human being. Realoud is real nice!

  • Patty Pong says:

    Hands down the most fascinating fact is using recollections while in a coma to base a fragrance on. Nothing beats that.

    So Skin Graft is my choice to win.

  • Tracy Roksvaag says:

    Having survived SJS myself, most fascinating to me is how David can look back at this horrendous, debilitating, extremely painful both physically & emotionally disease- and he can make something so positive from his experience. I constantly live in a place where half of me wants my burn pictures published so I can educate people, and the other half of me wants to go to a hypnotist and have my memories of burning in medical hell completely erased from my mind. David has never hid his life away, and by creating Phoenicia he has never hid from his life either. I am so proud of him.

    The bold half of my mind is winning right now, and I would chose Skin Graft.

    (Go Mets!)

  • I am amazed by his story and glad to have read it. What he has to say about the generosity of the perfume industry is something that resonates with my experience. I have to conclude this generosity is in part because perfumes remind us it takes how sensual experiences gain in richness when they are shared. But probably the most interesting thing to me is his desire to create discomfor and his search to bring the experience of his coma to the world pf scent. I am longing to try all of the scents but realoud is the one I think calls to me with the real Mysore sandalwood note.

  • Reading about the coma experience was amazing and moving.

    I also like the attitude that fragrance is a new artistic cultural frontier — I really believe that. And love the idea of searching for new synthetic molecules. Who knows what’s out there!!

  • What’s NOT fascinating about this story? I’m especially intrigued by his love of music with it’s healing properties, esp. loud music and bright lights. Losing two of the senses, it makes sense to hype what remains – what you can control – into overdrive. My choice is REALOUD. Now I want to read about Stevens Johnson Syndrome. Thanks for this profile.

  • wefadetogray says:

    I dont know where to start. David is fascinating. It gives me faith to read in his words so much energy and conviction regarding the ferocious life force that propels your body, no matter how wounded, to heal, to endure. My body has been sick for over 6 years now and I feel inspired to believe in recovery, to trust. Like Michelyn commented in the editor’s note, you must rise from the ashes even when there are no cinders left.
    I would love to try Ultra flora or Skin Graft

  • From the start, I found this profile fascinating. The voice went from humorous to profound to happy. I developed a real fondness for David.

    I would love to try Ultra Flora or REALOUD (which I read at first as REALLOUD, and thought it was a reference to his taste in music. :))

  • SisterSpecies says:

    Umm, what could I NOT find fascinating about this profile? The many twists and turns of a real life laid bare. Quite the bravery really to share such details with such a wide audience. And that piques my interest, so nice to feel some sense of the actual human behind the nose, not just the press copy. Glad to see another PNW perfumer rising up!

    REALOUD is the scent I’d be most inclined to sniff first. Thanks.

  • I really loved this interview. The energy of David jumped right out of the page’ opps, I mean screen . I felt real honesty there and it was no wonder that he said people shared with him. That kind of honesty makes for a complusary rapport. I imagine the knowledge of a near death experience and one so horriffic at that leaves only an impulse for freedom, real freedom that comes with a blend of sensation, all the senses engaging and then some! Thank you thank you thank you David, you have inspired my afternoon.

  • Nicole Chapman says:

    as a SJS survivor the thing I find most fasinating about David is to spread awarness and to come up with a way to make a diffence with a tradedy in his life. Iam also glad David has spoke up and is letting the world know about Stevens Johnson Syndrome. David keep on spreading awarness.
    I would choose skin graft.

  • marcopietro says:

    I am fascinated by David research about new synthetic molecules and I share with him the experience of olfactory rehabilitation therapy during recovery post-traumatic. I also learned something about the Stevens Johnson Syndrome which I had no knowledge.
    My first choice is Realoud.

  • Wow! I believe this is the most fascinating story yet in this series! The first part had me laughing. David obviously has a good sense of humor, which is maybe what helped him get through what was to come. I learned about a disease I had never even heard of. Then I had to laugh at the end when he brought up Pretty Lights. My college aged daughters have seen him twice; I guess I’l ask to hear some of the music now. David sounds like a fascinating guy and is approaching scent in a new way. I would like to try Ultra Floral if I were chosen. I am very sensitive to what I call memory scents, and although I’m super curious about skin graft, I’m a little afraid to try it because of some bad hospital associations. Very brave of him to tackle that one head on and turn it into a positive.

  • What an incredible story about a fascinating man! I really enjoyed reading about his lineage and was chuckling about the family’s move to the west coast to escape his overbearing grandmother!

    I was also intrigued that he created Skin Graft…which perhaps has had a cathartic effect on him…

    As a lover of Mysore I would really like to try RealOud.

    thank you, CfB for bringing another American perfumer to the forefront and thank you David for this generous draw!

  • Interesting profile, I must say. David certainly knows how to face adversity and come out stronger. To think that if none of these circumstances had happened, maybe we wouldn’t have a Phoenicia line of perfumes..
    I would love to try REALOUD, if I am chosen!

  • FearsMice says:

    I’m most impressed by what David doesn’t directly address in the interview: his courage and his indomitable will to live. To go on to create things of beauty out of such a soul-scarring experience amazes me. Peace and blessings to him!
    I’d chose Ultra Flora for the draw.

  • It was interesting to learn that the first perfume he used was Cerruti by Nino Cerruti. And I love that he’s a play writer!

    ULTRA FLORA sounds good to me!

  • I found the Steven Johnson’s Syndrome fascinating in that he never lost his sense of smell! He is totally inspiring. I would love yo try Skin Graft or RealOud if I win. Great article and thanks for the draw! 🙂

  • Thanks for a great article about an amazing man and for bringing attention to SJS. I don’t think I had ever heard about this syndrome, but I had recently seen signs in my area for the Miles for Madison 5K. There was a link to this on the SJS website. Anyway, fascinating story how this medical nightmare has lead him to the perfume business. I would love to smell Ultra Flora.

  • What a life! Exquisitely written, it sucked me right in as if I’m watching his life go by. I can really relate to the cultural excursion trips in childhood, the affinity for electronic music and “raves” but most of all, I loved the will and fire behind the words.

    Now I’m really curious to smell his creations… Would love to try REALOUD.

  • I found everything about David’s profile fascinating! What a wonderfully written little memoir. The memory of the cherry tree and sniffing all the department store bottles is great.

    I recently experienced the oud-burning process myself and it was all I could do to not go home with a pile of stuff. I just kept thinking “smoke detectors”.

    One of my friends from years ago contracted SJS. He nearly died and he said his suffering was so great that if he ever contracted it again he would kill himself rather than go through it. I can’t even imagine. I admire David’s positivity and how his illness has led him to this path.

    I’d love to try Ultra Flora. Thank you!

  • I found David’s story interesting, sad and inspiring. I do not know about his disease, but it sounds grueling and I’m glad he persevered, and overcame it. I admire him immensely. I’d love to try his Ultra Flora fragrance

  • I found the whole profile fascinating. The most interesting portion to me was about Stevens Johnson syndrome. would love the opportunity to try Skin Graft.

  • What a Renaissance man! I had never heard of Stevens Johnson syndrome, and was amazed at his recovery. Truly, a story of rebirth: The line’s name makes total sense. While fascinated by the idea of Skin Graft, I still have memories of my mother’s recent last days in a hospital, and I’m not ready to go there. But despite its prevalence, I still love oud, so I’d pick REALOUD if I were so lucky. And I live in the U.S. Thanks, and congrats to David on his success!

  • What I found most interesting about the story was Steven’s fight with this awful disease. And what I found most interesting about the comments is how most other people found this aspect the most compelling too. It raises for me, as so many other things do, the meaning and significance of suffering…

    And, if my name is the one to come up, I would love to smell a real oud!

  • Are you kidding? The whole article was fascinating,! The banal, turned terrifying. I was lolling around, all ‘oh, who cares?” with the parents and the shmaltz and the Yale and the picket fence (because I am a shallow soul)….little did I know he was leading me down that rose-strewn path and OFF A CLIFF!

    I am humbled. And rejuvenated. And I rejoice in his continued recovery and his rise from what sounds to be a literal type of fire!

    xoxoA

  • oh, and my apologies. As usual I was so focused on the article I forgot to choose: if my name comes up I would love to try Ultra Flora. I admit to being more intrigued by Skin Graft but the name freaks me out.

    xo

  • As many have already said – what’s not to be amazed about?? Go, David, go! (and also “Like A Rolling Stone” is part of my daily playlist)
    I’m really interested in Ultra Flora and I can’t really understand where’s my oud love gone..

  • helical gnome says:

    David is such a powerhouse. You can read his strength. I particularly enjoy his passion for natural, high qualities flowers and the no boundaries motto which makes me think how unlimited his vision of flowers can be. i feel likes his perfumes may be like flowers on acid. I am interested in trying ultra flora for sure.

  • Dear readers, contestants and new friends:
    One of the physical aftermaths of my illness is that I can only rarely produce tears. Nevertheless I shed metaphorical buckets of tears in gratitude for your responses. I like to share my hope, strength and belief in the exalted living right here amongst us. But I also feel compelled to share the darkness and my heart goes out to all who suffer needlessly. Stevens Johnson Syndrome is an allergic reaction to common medications and the bottom line is that the drug companies could easily inform the public of the exact symptoms of SJS in their warning labels. Instead they spend mega-millions in legal fees to try to keep inadequate warning labels intact.

  • I love the fact that David was able to overcome his illness and then transform his experience into something so beautiful , Phoenicia Perfumes. God works in mysterious ways that we don’t fully understand. God bless.

    I would like the RealOud fragrance sample.

  • Incredible, fascinating, inspiring!! Amazing article!! I would love to try all the perfumes that were the result of this experience and especially Skin Graft. Keep going strong David!!

  • Sarah Lathrop says:

    What a great profile. David’s personality comes through loud and clear! It is terrific that he spent his recovery time researching and experimenting with incense and fragrance. I had to chuckle at the fact that his experience at Yale increased his love of life and decreased his interest in conventional education because I live in New Haven. Yale is certainly a double-edged sword around here. It sounds like David comes from an amazing family and has always made the most of his experiences. Best of luck to him!
    All three scents are intriguing and I like the sound of the animalic notes in Ultra Flora, but I would have to say I am most interested in RealOud.
    Thank you for the chance!

  • Wow, this was one of the best profiles yet! I really feel like I know David now. I share his interest in electronic dance music, there is a strange healing and spirituality to that music for sure. Also so interesting to see how he merges West Coast and East Coast sensibilities throughout his upbringing and through his artistic influences.

    Being a floral lover, I have to enter for Ultra Flora. Thank you!

  • I loved reading the story behind the name, Phoenicia– I thought of the ancient Phoenicians and not of Phoenixes at first. I thought the metaphor of overcoming and rising and healing was very touching and inspiring. I also liked the bit about his scent-memory of skunk spray–that was probably the first ‘unpleasant’ smell I was both repelled by and attracted to…

    I want to try RealOud the most!

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    what i notice in David’s life is that love of art does lead to rebellion spirit and maybe lot of eccentricity 🙂 my interest is RealOUD

  • I found it fascinating that he discovered oud and incense through self medication! That is amazing that the oils have so much power!

    I also smirked a bit when reading about him bowing with a 5lb feather hat!

    I would really like to smell Realoud! It sounds amazing. I am a sucker for saffron

  • I loved the strength of spirit that David approached his life with when faced with Stevens Johnson Syndrome. It is so amazing that scent can help bring us through our darkest times. I am truly humbled by what he has overcome, and would love the chance to experience RealOud. Thanks for the opportunity to learn more about David Falsberg, and for the draw.

  • Curtis Leslie Anderson says:

    Are you the same David Falsberg who worked in the bicycle industry and whom I met on Thompkins Square Park in the early 1980’s?