Every February we all inevitably begin to think of love, as Valentine’s Day is just around the corner. Many perfumes have “love” or “amor/amour” in their names and attempt to capture the feeling of love. Many, I am sad to say, miss the mark. A relative newcomer to the perfume world (not perfume itself) is Mercedes Ganon and her first release Jus d’Amour does its name justice. Mercedes has been in love with perfume since around the age of two. Periodically, while growing up, her aunt Mimi (who lived in Paris) would come to visit with a huge Cartier case full of perfumes, samples and minis. Little Mercedes would sniff everything and go into the kitchen where she would combine what she smelled. Her passion for perfumes began before she could even read the labels on the bottles!
The sample I received came in an envelope with press materials and (what is this?) a full-length music CD. My heart fell a bit as I was expecting yet another “celebrity scent” some singer had slapped their name on, hoping for a fast buck with little care to what it smelled like or how well it was crafted. Upon rolling the thick viscous juice on my arms and neck, let me tell you this: NOTHING could be further from the truth! One thing Mercedes has in common with celebrities is she has vocal talent and yet her music defies a genre. It comes from her heart brightly and rather eloquently…as do her perfumes. Make no mistake here, Ms Ganon IS a “nose” and created this scent herself (and the other two soon to be released) from blending pure essence oils. They are almost entirely natural, having only a tiny percentage of synthetics in the carrier base.
More often than naught, anything with love in the title is dripping with either roses, cherry blossoms or a ton of fruity notes. Jus d’Amour is a simple yet elegant combination of six notes that speak volumes. Immediately I get a subtle sweetness wrapped in a leafy green (this contains coconut palm leaves and a specially created “aqualeaf” accord to keep it fresh). As it begins to develop and expand more, a beautiful not too powdery not too “juicy green” violet appears. Strangely innocent and wise all at once, it smiles sweetly and bats its eyelashes at you. I am not sure if it is the violet itself or the way it is combined with night blooming jasmine…but this is most excellent. Floral without becoming too “girly girl” and creating a blend of classic violets with a hint of jasmine’s creamy sensuality, this scent is a real charmer.
Titania Sleeps by Frank Cadogen Cowper (1928)
So far, this reads very feminine, but, in reality it is a beautiful blend of both traditionally feminine components (jasmine, violet, etc.) along with some rather masculine notes (sandalwood, leaves and aqueous plants). Love knows no boundaries save those we impose on ourselves; the same goes for scents. With a name like this (the juice of love) one might construe that this perfume was a bit risqué, yet there is nothing vulgar or overtly sexual about it. It goes on softly and smoothly. Its sillage is wonderful, at times you can smell it plainly and other times it “hides” until movement or a breath of fresh air reminds you how lovely you smell. Without any direct application, this perfume (actually a perfume oil absolute) transfers to one’s clothing, coat and bedclothes and lingers like a dream.
One of the most predominant notes in this entire scent is, of course, vanilla. And here there are two kinds of vanilla: Madagascar and Tahitian. Together they are wonderful having a rather soft floral feeling (reminiscent of the orchid from which it grew) and another side that’s more dark and slightly smoky. The golden glow of the vanilla here really does make one think of that same cozy sweet aura of warmth you get when you are close to someone you really care about. I would hesitate to call this a gourmand (or a true “oriental” for that matter), and flat out refuse to call it a floral. This presents as a quasi-oriental perfume without the usual heaviness and something floral and fresh with an entirely amazing aroma that is both modern and timeless.
If you go to her website, you will see many “famous” people who have already tried and love her perfumes. Her company also makes soy candles scented with her fragrances. Her perfumes were featured in Cannes, at the Emmys and in Monte Carlo and are available at Frederick Fekkai’s and Scent Bar/LuckyScent. Without any of the trappings of the usual “love” perfumes, Ms. Ganon has captured the precious scent of romance in a bottle while remaining true to her own artistic vision and her muse. It was not what I personally expected it to be…but after sniffing and wearing it I can say it lives up to its PR. I can also report that men ranging from 22 to 54 loved it on me (with no girly vibe) as did my mom (who is 66) and my neighbor (41) and her daughters (16, 9 and 7). It is not too often such a varied group of people at different ages can agree; but they all do about Jus d’Amour. Sillage: slightly above average. Longevity: very good.
Disclosure: Review is based on a mini rollerball of perfume absolute oil sent to me by Parfums Mercedes.
Parfums Mercedes is overflowing with love as they are offering three different giveaways; a full bottle of Jus D’Amour or a soy candle of Jus D’Amour or a full bottle of her masculine fragrance Legend. To be eligible leave comment on what you think the smell of love is and which giveaway you would prefer. The draw will end February 9, 2013.
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.
–John Reasinger, Editor