Jerome Epinette

Every year has their share of winners and losers, certainly 2012 has seen both. As I write my last review of 2012 I am very happy to be spending it with one of my biggest winners of 2012. Starting with Ambre Nue in the spring this niche perfume house has been having a superb year. As it comes to a close it finishes with a flourish as they open a new Atelier Cologne boutique in Paris and release Mistral Patchouli to coincide with that event.

Mistral Patchouli is the third fragrance, in 2012, created for Atelier Cologne by Jerome Epinette of Robertet. With Mistral Patchouli M. Epinette returns to exploring a fractionated titular note. As he achieved with the vetiver fraction in Vetiver Fatal it is a patchouli fraction, in Mistral Patchouli, which loses a lot of its heavy baggage. This transforms patchouli into something as light as a breeze. It also made me appreciate patchouli in a very different way. The fraction in use in Mistral Patchouli acts like an herbal sprite, agile and flexible. It is the centerpiece of Mistral Patchouli and it holds its own beautifully.

The mistral is a dry regional wind of France that starts in the north, flows through the Rhone valley and eventually swirls along the Mediterranean coast. It is a breeze full of the aromas it picks up on its travel to the coast. One of M. Epinette's challenges was to add that hint of the Mediterranean to the patchouli fraction so that both aspects of the name were represented. The word mistral is derived from a dialect of French which means "masterly". Mistral Patchouli is an example of M. Epinette's masterly use of materials to create a dry breeze of patchouli that is breathtaking.

Star Anise

The first example of the creativity of M. Epinette is how he creates his salty ocean accord at the opening of Mistral Patchouli. Many perfumers would reach for the Calone and be done. When I tried Mistral Patchouli for the first time I realized there was no Calone but there was a great salty marine accord blowing across my senses. I was so surprised I had to contact M. Epinette to find out how this was achieved and got, what was to me, a surprising response. He told me that, "Instead of using the usual commercial and synthetic notes like Calone; I thought to use Star Anise from China to give the fresh salty and watery effect to the fragrance." This use of the star anise was as illuminating to my nose as the patchouli fraction. Combined with the star anise is a citrus note identified as pomelo and a pinch of black pepper. These create a fresh quality and a bit of the dry nature of the mistral. The heart is made up of iris and geranium, primarily, with a swirl of incense but not a lot. In the base we get to the patchouli fraction. M. Epinette explains its place, "I used the patchouli fraction to get rid of the smoky, earthy effect of patchouli. I wanted a pure leafy, airy patchouli. So I used the fraction which smelled to me fresh and leafy." This is a great description of the patchouli fraction as it is airy and green. I would also say it retains a bit of the herbal nature of patchouli without ever becoming overwhelming. There is some benzoin and vetiver here but it is the patchouli front and center.

Mistral Patchouli has excellent longevity and above average sillage.

Mistral Patchouli was such a great place for me to finish 2012. Enjoying a new fragrance by one of my favorite niche houses and perfumers of 2012.

Disclosure: This review was based on 30mL bottle provided by Atelier Cologne.

Thanks to Atelier Cologne we have a 30mL petit flacon of Mistral Patchouli to giveaway. To be eligible leave a comment on your favorite Atelier Cologne release of 2012 or your favorite fragrance by M. Epinette. The draw will close on December 27, 2012. 

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

-Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

Editor's Note: Mistral Patchouli will be available at Bergdorf-Goodman on December 28, 2012. It is also available at both the New York and Paris Atelier Cologne boutiques. It will be available at the normal outlets early in 2013.