The Countess de Presle opened Maison Detaille on a quiet street in Paris in 1905. The Countess, who owned one of the first automobiles of the 20th century, came to learn that the high speed of a vehicle (some designed without windshields at the time) caused her skin to become dehydrated. Working with a chemist, they created Baume Automobile, a hydrating lotion, quickly followed by a range of body care products, the Préparations de Beauté. The products were quite the hit among her circle of friends, and so, Maison Detaille, named after her husband, the brother of the painter, Édouard Detaille, was born.
To this day, the men and women of Detaille pride themselves on products of high quality that remain, in their words: simple, soft and efficient. In addition to skin care and powders, Detaille offers a wide range of fragrances in both Eau de Toilette and classic cologne concentrations. Thanks to MiN New York, I was fortunate to experience many of the EDTs which comprise the full collection of five feminine fragrances and five masculines. Detaille's pour femme collection consists of 1905, Dolcia, Sofia, Shéliane, and Alizée, while the hommes can enjoy Par 4, Miles, Yachting, Aéroplane and Escrimeur. I've taken a closer look at some of the standouts from the house.
Yachting Notes include cardamom, ginger, geranium, jasmine, vetiver, cedar and gaïac wood.
Yachting is, as expected from its name, homage to sea and sport. The dry smoothness of the wood notes is interrupted by a jagged saltiness, not unlike the white crest of a wave rising from placid waters and crashing on land. The vetiver is used in such a way as to suggest seagrass, while the ginger puts a zing in the salty air. Wearing Yachting is like wearing a crisp white shirt over sunburned skin after a day at sea. Add a blue blazer and you're ready for dinner at the Captain's table.
Miles Notes include grape, dried fruits, bay of juniper, plum, immortal, lime, geranium, gaïac wood, cashmere wood, white honey, and vanilla.
Though unabashedly Parisian, Miles is painted in the glorious colors of the Italian Rejnaissance: deep burgundies, reds, browns and golds. A bowl of fruit sits on a wooden table against a deep burgundy backdrop. From the opening, Miles is ornate and festive, but a bit too well-mannered, like, perhaps, the first hour of a holiday party. As the fragrance dries down, the white honey and vanilla burn through to loosen things up. At this point, the guests at this party get to know one another and things get downright sexy. A fragrance with dried fruit and vanilla may run the risk of smelling like a craft-store candle, but Miles, at all times, remains a first-class affair. I'd especially recommend Miles to fans of Chanel Egoiste or D'Orsay's Le Dandy.
Dolcia Notes include green apple, quince, Egyptian eyelet, lemon tree flower, peach blossom, osmanthus, white cedar, and amber.
Where Miles paints a portrait of fruit using dark, sumptuous colors, Dolcia paints fruit in bright watercolors. Dolcia opens with a sparkling, tart green apple and quince that quickly segues into its floral heart. This is fresh air through an open window, the breeze through the lace curtains is barely detectable, but the air is rich with peach blossoms. The amber in the base adds a bit of melancholy as it suggests not just the end of a summer day, but the end of summer.
1905 Notes include galbanum, violet, blackcurrant bud, jasmine, ylang ylang, rose, orange flower, iris, sandalwood, vetiver and oak moss.
The French produce soaps as exquisite as their perfumes. True French triple-milled soaps are passed three times through a powerful steel roller mill. With each pass through the mill, the soap crystals become smoother and smoother, resulting in more luxuriant product. 1905, with its decadent floral notes amid a backdrop of creamy sandalwood, calls to mind the best in both perfumery and fine milled soap. It smells like a beautiful, albeit demure woman who has just emerged from a long afternoon bath. She powders her soft skin, dresses and takes to the sun-drenched streets of Paris for a contemplative stroll. This woman's style is classic, polished and refined. Never ostentatious. 1905, named after the year the store was opened, epitomizes Detaille's philosophy of simplicity and elegance.
I was quite impressed with the Detaille line. The diverse collection of fragrances is of high quality while remaining unpretentious and true to their original values.
Disclosure: This review was based on samples provided by MiN New York.
–Michael Devine, Monthly Contributor