Tama: Kilian Hennessy has just launched his third perfume series in the By Kilian line: Asian Tales. With his signature Baccarat bottles and lacquered box, but with red lettering on the silver label, and opulent red satin lining the box, the first two scents in the series make a lovely presentation. I was fortunate to receive samples of both Bamboo Harmony and Water Calligraphy, as was my fellow CaFleureBon editor John Reasinger. We have such different methods of expression in our perfume writing; we thought it would be fun to review these in tandem.

I wore Bamboo Harmony on what turned out to be the hottest day so far in the season.  Perfumer Calice Becker has managed to create a scent that is light, breezy, and soft, but at the same time remarkably tenacious. When I thought that the perfume was long gone, I spent some time outside in the heat, which released another wave of aroma. I am not normally a fan of scents that center around a tea note, as I find it can be overly sweet and oppressive. The white tea that is at the heart of Bamboo Harmony is a welcome exception. All day long, I was pleasantly entranced by the slight earthiness and sweetness of the scent.  The By Kilian sales associate at Saks said this is flying off the shelves, and I can understand why.  It’s not easy to create a scent that is as complex and long-lasting as this while retaining an almost ethereal presence on the skin.

John: Bamboo is one of my favorite things, so I was very intrigued when Kilian designed this Asian Tales release around that particular note. Many people dislike “bamboo in perfume” citing it is too green or too fresh…or just generic. I find this perfume extremely beautiful. After the lovely blend of citric top notes (bergamot, bitter orange and neroli) dissipates, you are surrounded (but never smothered) by the sheer and elegant trio of gentle white tea, lush yet cool bamboo and sunny mimosa. The opening was likeable…the heart: divine. As this wore on, I kept expecting it to fade quickly. To my delight and surprise, it lasted all through the evening and was still present (strongly on my shirt and lightly on my skin) the next morning.  The finish here is still green, though it becomes more grounded and less “breezy” as fig leaves, mate and vetiver make it drier and earthier; while remaining utterly refreshing. With a rather simple palette, the perfumer has captured the intrinsic beauty of the ideal and captured elegance without going overboard. This smelled wonderful when applied in my home. When I stepped outside and the warm spring breeze touched my skin, it became even better. 

Tama: Water Calligraphy is the more difficult of the two scents for me. I find the opening grapefruit note a bit strident, and there is a more aquatic feel to the fragrance as a whole. That said, it is a well-made perfume, with a lovely jasmine sambac and magnolia heart. I particularly like the base notes of cardamom and vetiver combined. This is more a skin scent than Bamboo Harmony, and is a fine example of “me-but-better”. Water Calligraphy is also created by Calice Becker, and these two new scents really display her versatility as a perfumer. Anyone who can create a sultry powerhouse like By Kilian Back to Black: Aphrodisiac, then turn around and create scents that are mere wisps, yet complete in their artistry, are a force to be reckoned with.

John: Water lily, as a “note” in perfumes, is hit or miss with me.  After reading the PR for this I was skeptical; but being it was a Kilian, I knew I had to at least try it. I am quite glad that I did. The opening of grapefruit and reseda blossoms was anything but “aquatic” to me. It had a very tonic effect on me. Invigorating yet somehow soothing, this morphed into a softer and somewhat creamy floral on me. Magnolia is not the star here, but instead adds a delicate aspect to the heady sambac jasmine and aqueous water lily; keeping them balanced. How all of these notes eventually join together, like a stream joining a river, to “flow over vetiver and cardamom” is genius. More than sitting beside a pond and taking in quiet beauty, this perfume (to me) is a relaxing walk beside a smoothly babbling brook until it eventually tumbles over smooth stones. Peaceful, but uplifting, this scent is predominately floral. Yet it is so much more than water and flowers. Clean, without being soapy, and streamlined, without being too “thin”, Ms. Becker has taken a ubiquitous idea and given it a touch of class.

I very much prefer Bamboo Harmony over Water Calligraphy, as well. The latter was not as well received by my skin (or my nose) yet holds its own. I, too, have a newfound appreciation for perfumer Calice Becker. I knew she could do sweet and girly, and also knew she could do dark and complex (from earlier By Kilian creations); but here she has shown her versatility by doing “sheer and ephemeral” without sacrificing longevity or quality. Sillage on both of these is restrained (gently there yet readily detectable) and the longevity is very good. Many fans of earlier Kilian creations may be unimpressed with this line. I find these to be a welcome departure from “The Black Collection” and the “Ouds”. They are quite a bit lighter; however I think they are solid releases, and perfect for wearing by men and women alike for this spring.

Disclosure: These reviews were based on samples from By Kilian.

–Tama Blough, Senior Editor & John Reasinger, Editor