Armani/Privé Cuir Améthyste via Bergdorf Goodman

Last week, on September 4th, we witnessed the passing of iconic haute couture designer Giorgio Armani at the ripe age of 91. Born in the historic town of Piacenza, Italy (in the province of Emilia-Romagna, south of Milan), Mr. Armani rose to well-earned fame by dint of hard work. Initially interested in pursuing a career in medicine, he attended the University of Milan for three years before enlisting in the army. In 1947, he went from being a window dresser in a Milan boutique to a menswear salesperson – eventually designing men’s clothing for Nino Cerruti, and freelancing for other designers.

Giorgio Armani via Getty MILAN, ITALY – JANUARY 13: Designer Giorgio Armani walks the runway

With the creation of his own eponymous house in 1975, he branched out into multiple areas, including film (he designed Richard Gere’s wardrobe in 1980 for American Gigolo), music, undergarments, swimwear, accessories (including jewelry, perfume, and cosmetics), prêt-a-porter (AX Armani Exchange), and any number of other creative endeavors. He will always be remembered for his streamlined, elegant style.

Only devoted perfumisti, I think, will remember him for his prodigious fragrant output – and the fact that he sought out marvelous noses to compose his perfumes, which number over 200 to date. His Acqua di Giò (1995, Édouard Fléchier) put him solidly on the map, followed by many flankers. There exist so many fragrances under his capacious umbrella, including the Armani/Privé collection (truly luxe and unusual scents). As you can see, it’s not wise to leap down the rabbit hole – so I’d like to share with you one of his most exquisite creations (now discontinued on their website, but still available at a few high-end retailers): Armani/Privé Cuir Améthyste, an exceptional violet leather perfume with which I became smitten in 2005. I have never been without it since.

Those amongst us who love floral leathers are aware that the list seems endless, a constantly burgeoning genre which appeals to many. A little while back, I collaborated with a perfumer who wished to create a new twist on leather fragrances – so I sent him > 15 samples of the great ones for his olfactory perusal, a mini-exploration. Rose leather, jasmine leather, iris leather, spiced leather, herbal leather, citrus leather, woody leather, Russian leather, Spanish leather, English leather, and also violet leather. Cuir Améthyste was included in the selection, because I knew that he would appreciate it as I do.

 

birch via Bergdorf Goodman,

What makes Armani/ Cuir Améthyste so special? Equipoise and elegance, if I were pressed to distill its appeal. In 2005, this fragrance was likely ahead of its time; it appeared one year before Parfum d’Empire’s Cuir Ottoman burst upon the fragrant scene (another favorite of mine). Most of the younger aficionados were unfamiliar with classically intense Peau d’Espagne (Spanish leather) or Russian leather perfumes, and their responses bordered on love/hate: either they found themselves entranced with these smoky, passionate fragrances, or they were instantaneously repulsed by their animalic qualities.

Michel Almairac via Wikiparfum

“Raw materials are a great source of inspiration. They allow me to constantly renew my creativity.” ~ Master perfumer Michel Almairac

To my nose, Armani/Privé Cuir Améthyste smells purringly animalic as opposed to vehemently animalic – caressable in a sophisticated manner that is a delight to wear in every season. Deftly introduced with a kiss of zesty bergamot and coriander, it is the ionones which bring great pleasure: the beta ionones in rose commingled with the alpha ionones which summon a candied violet note. Monsieur Almairac employs these elements so skillfully that they patently refuse to cloy, choosing to seduce instead. There is just enough birch (tar, or perhaps isobutyl quinoline) to impart a softly singed woody character to Cuir Améthyste without dominating its composition: it is all curves, without a single sharp edge in sight. The choicest patchouli, benzoin, and labdanum in combination with the dense richness of Bourbon vanilla (with its dark chocolate, slightly bitter and balsamic undertone) provide further gentling of the leathery tones in this perfume.

As is the case with all perfumes, if you are seeking critical opinions you will always find them. One famous perfumer and blogger gave Cuir Améthyste 4/5 stars – yet their review was decidedly lukewarm, to put it mildly: the leather was not sharp enough, and the fragrance “moved with a heavy step”. Another highly-regarded critic awarded it one star, accompanied by a scathing assessment. Others report it being too sweet, too soft, more a glorified fruity floral than a leather fragrance; point to its familiarity with Russian leather scents; and describe it as powerful. So it goes with reviews and reviewers: this is why I encourage you to decide for yourselves. In the final analysis, your opinion is really the only one that matters. I happen to love Cuir Améthyste – and I always receive compliments when I wear it; it leaves a positive impression. The fragrance is very long-lasting, and while it doesn’t possess a screaming sillage, it can be perceived by others many hours after application.

Notes: coriander, rose, bergamot, violet, silver birch, patchouli, benzoin, labdanum, Bourbon vanilla

The fragrance reviewed is from my personal collection. My nose is my own…

Ida’s bottle of Armani/Privé Cuir Améthyste

Ida is offering a decant from her bottle of Armani/Privé Cuir Améthyste to one registered reader in the continental US. To be eligible, please leave a comment about what appealed to you about Ida’s review and that you live in the USA. Draw closes 9/14/2025

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

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