SIMPPAR 2025 Espace Champerret entrance, along with raw materials details

Returning to its historic home at Paris’s Espace Champerret, the 18th edition of SIMPPAR on June 4–5, 2025, reaffirmed its status as a global hub for raw material innovation in perfumery. Organized by the Société Française des Parfumeurs, this edition marked a generational shift, with Event Manager Alexandra Duclos succeeding her father, Thierry. Now an annual affair, the show has only grown in momentum.

With over 4,000 attendees, 128 exhibitors from 24 countries, and a crowd that spanned every perfumery sector, SIMPPAR thrived with international presence. Long queues and packed booths were the norm as visitors explored the extended show floor, where creativity reigned not only in ingredients but in booth design itself. So, let’s take the tour with a sun-kissed start.

SIMPPAR 2025 Mane 1871 booth – Ermano with Perfumer Serge Majoullier

Mane’s beach-themed “Sun Club” booth channeled summer with golden-striped huts and lifebuoys framing a display of forward-thinking ingredients. Highlights included Sublimolide, a sustainable musky molecule; the luminous Red Champaca E-Pure Jungle Essence; and Antillone, a fruity biotech captive. Along with Rhum Blanc Pure Jungle Essence, they conveyed the idea of a typical muddled cocktail, while Spicyrup, a specialty relying on captives, exudes notes of spiced carrot cake and caramelized beetroot, drawing enthusiastic reactions for its gourmand boldness.

Decorated with rarely seen off-season yellow bergamots, Capua 1880′s booth presented a standout with Hazelnut NatInfuse TEC, rich and nutty without the razor-sharpness of filbertone (the isolated molecule majorly responsible for roasted hazelnut’s smell). The apricot-tinged Italian Jasmine extraction and iris pallida NatInfuse TEC bearing rooty moistness rounded out a top-notch offering. Campisi Citrus made waves with their Siracusa Lemon PGI cold pressed oil, praised for its pronounced rosy floralcy and slight metallic glints, without being acid. Their blonde and blood orange oils were equally stunning, especially the blood orange: full-bodied, cheerful, and juicy, with an almost candied-fruit cologne quality.

 Capua 1880

Nestled at the foot of the Sierra Nevada, Zalabì is a family-run farm and distillery that began cultivating and extracting premium essential oils almost five years ago. Focusing on regional aromatic plants, they deeply embedded sustainability in their operations. With a zero-waste philosophy, efficient water management, low-emissions production, and a fully solar-powered distillery, Zalabì has created a circular process that transforms plant residue into essential oils, hydrosols, and bioenergy. Their Red Thyme oil impressed with leather and amber nuances, while Sage Oil revealed warm, labdanum-like depth.

Biolandes wowed with fully edible Champignon de Paris absolute: think creamy sautéed mushrooms, buttery, with subtle green undertones, and a soft, waxy floralcy, underpinned by moss-like elegance. The ingredient impressed with its fully edible profile (it is also food-grade). Their By-absolute collection, which previously introduced vetiver, now features a striking upcycled sandalwood absolute from New Caledonia. Luxuriously smooth and creamy with a soft cashew-like nuance, it’s derived from spent sandalwood material processed into a by-concrete and then into the final extract. Sweet Clover Absolute (Melilotus officinalis), another highlight, opens with a honey-almond bouquet supported by hay and warm orange blossom tones.

 Payan Bertrand “Jardin d’Hiver” booth

While at Mane, after last year’s Patchouli Gayo, the new Darkoa fuses cocoa with it into a seductive, leathery gourmand. At Payan Bertrand, Cuir de Sumatra blended patchouli and osmanthus into a chypre leather with fruity suppleness that feels both primal and terribly chic. Patchouli has never truly faded, but these daring reinterpretations suggest a renaissance is underway. The new collection of ingredients relying on the patented technique Process e® (involving fractioning and recombination of ingredients) had me with a gloriously vegetal and peppery angelica root extraction, very musky and not so earthy, joined by ambrette and Peru balsam to broaden their range.

PCW’s perfumer kit with trending ingredients and specialties like pistachio and champagne bases was presented alongside a short tutorial on tuberose varieties. Visitors learned to distinguish between simple, semi-double, hybrid, and variegated petal structures—each with a different olfactive fingerprint. Arriving at the Floral Concept booth, I had the pleasure of speaking with perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato and Osmothèque President Thomas Fontaine, who shared their enthusiasm for the booth’s centerpiece: Linalool ex-Bois de Rose. After disappearing from the perfumer’s palette for decades due to environmental protection, the coveted fresh-floral top note of Bois de Rose has made a triumphant return thanks to Floral Concept. The natural isolate linalool captures the purest expression of bois de rose, offering an exquisite chilling floral silkiness reminiscent of the finest French lavender and the airy brightness of hand-sponged Calabrian bergamot. It’s a true gem for the modern perfumer.

 Lecheq Farm & Distillery

Azerbaijan’s Lecheq Farm & Distillery booth felt like stepping into a blooming rose field, evoking the country’s rich history in rose oil production. Their Rose Damascena Essential Oil contrasted sharply with its Bulgarian cousin—jammy, honeyed, and clove-spiced. Rose Totale provided a full-spectrum floral depth, while Organic Wormwood Essential Oil (Artemisia absinthium) opened warm and balsamic, then evolved into a bitter absinthe-Chartreuse complexity, ending on a mellow, coumarin sweetness.

At Symrise, a blind scent quiz invited visitors to guess high-impact molecules like Corps Racine and the newly released Ambrostar. Originally synthesized by Philip Kraft in 2010, this dry, radiant amber with subtle animalic depth stunned with its power at even 0.01% concentration. On the naturals front, Maison Lautier 1795 presented spicy Bay Leaf Oil, buttery Cinnamon Bark, and a Myrrh Absolute rounded by dried fruit and licorice nuances.

Robertet drew crowds with its Futuring Naturals collection, starring a Black Tea Smoked CleanRscent (still a captive) unfolding vegetal tannins, IBQ-like green notes, tobacco, and labdanum-licorice into a bold Russian leather chypre. Artemisia and Combawa oils rounded out the set: while the first bears tobacco-honeyed depth, the latter is as textured as its wrinkled peel with sharp terpenes, sparkling aldehydes, and bitter greenery that form a thoroughly modern citrus expression.

SIMPPAR 2025  Synarome

Synarome’s booth invited exploration with a lively showcase of new materials, but it was their Cuir de Russie Base that stole the show. This elegant smoked leather, enriched with aldehydic floral touches from the historic Animalis base, proved its modernizing power, even transforming a cola accord. As perfumer Isabelle Fritsch put it, “It can modernize anything, even a note of Coke!” A smoky leather note so versatile it lends a couture touch to gourmandises, and when seen alongside the salon’s broader embrace of smoldering materials, it unmistakably signals a smoky renaissance wafting back into fine fragrance.

IFF’s booth glowed under a neon sign reading “Make Joy,” fitting for their imaginative synthetics. Tropicalia™ began as a radiant melon-pineapple accord and deepened into a creamy, banana-like warmth with animalic whispers. Oceanol, a new biodegradable ozonic molecule, brought savory, mossy freshness. From LMR’s newly established Chinese innovation platform came a dazzling Osmanthus Absolute, blending apricot jam with suede softness, and a zesty Sichuan Pepper CO2 sparkling with petitgrain-verbena facets.

SIMPPAR 2025 IFF & LMR

The DSM-Firmenich booth ended day one with a toast and the buzz of their Sharing Innovation 2025 collection. Star of the show was Clearwood Prisma, a next-gen patchouli note made via biotechnology. Compared to the original, it’s brighter, fresher, and wears a gleaming terpenic top, making it a worthy pillar for modern citrus-chypre structures. Another highlight of the growing patchouli rebirth. Also unforgettable were the naturals: Caribbean Rum SFE brought boozy freshness with ripe banana and sultana notes, balanced by a smooth woody-vanilla drydown. But the true showstopper was Coffee Peru Organic Firgood, an Arabica extraction that perfectly captured the spirit of Italian espresso: roasted yet never burnt, unfolding into hazelnut cappuccino creaminess and 70% dark chocolate depth.

SIMPPAR 2025  The SFP Cocktail & Awards – Clémentine Beun, Francis Kurkdjian, Hélène Prévost, Patricia de Nicolaï, Alberto Morillas

The social crescendo of SIMPPAR 2025 came with the SFP Young Perfumer Award, this year themed “Olfactory and Poetic Cultural Landscapes of Provence Lavenders.” Winner Clémentine Beun captivated the jury with her luminous creation, “Lavande Argentée.” A new tradition also began with the inaugural SIPC Awards, drawing a glittering roster of perfumers including Francis Kurkdjian, Hélène Prévost, Calice Becker, Alexandra Carlin, Sophie Labbé, Sylvie Jourdet, Karin Vinchon, and the newly elected president, Thierry Wasser.

Nearly 1,000 guests attended the ceremony, which closed on a high note with a joyous cocktail reception. Among the most touching moments were heartfelt speeches from Patricia de Nicolai and Alberto Morillas, both recipients of the SIPC Contribution Award.

SIMPPAR returns to Grasse on May 26–27, 2026.

Ermano Picco, Editor

all photos by Ermano©

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