When faced with reviewing a flanker of a fragrance I tend to brace myself. When the bottle reads “extreme” I generally know something is going to be more pronounced. Sometimes that process throws off the balance and creates something that barely resembles the original. Sometimes that process allows other notes to come to the fore and allow me to appreciate the original in a different way. Those are the extremes and most flankers fall closer on that continuum to the first point than the second, more desired point. This is why flankers are usually not my cup of tea.

The new release from Juliette Has A Gun, Vengeance Extreme, falls right about in the middle. Based on the Francis Kurkdjian created Lady Vengeance; Vengeance Extreme uses the same three notes: rose, patchouli, and vanilla. Romano Ricci who is the owner of Juliette Has A Gun is the perfumer this time around. Lady Vengeance is really about the rose. Vengeance Extreme is about the patchouli as M Ricci turns up the volume on that note. It is a risky move because I think there are more people who like rose and will tolerate some patchouli with it than vice versa. Patchouli is a divisive note both loved and despised by many which makes it a bold move.

M Ricci puts that patchouli right out in front and it is joined by the rose fairly quickly. This is patchouli in all of its pungent glory. I am one who likes patchouli and I really like the patchouli on display here. Over the next 45 minutes the rose fades away and Vengeance Extreme becomes a study in patchouli. The patchouli has a bit of a dirty raw feel once the rose dissipates and I enjoyed that transformation. For those who associate patchouli with a “head shop” vibe this is where Vengeance Extreme is going to make it or break it for you. One of the days I wore it I got an unsolicited comment centered around whether I had come from a Phish concert. So if you like that vibe this is good and if you don’t I would say this isn’t for you. The vanilla here is very subtle and much less pronounced than in Lady Vengeance and is really so slight you have to be looking for it.

Vengeance Extreme has outstanding longevity and above average sillage.

The enhanced patchouli of Vengeance Extreme didn’t give me a new insight into the rose or vanilla in Lady Vengeance but it also didn’t overbalance things and make it forgettable; or worse unwearable. The patchouli is going to be the deciding factor as to whether one likes Vengeance Extreme or not. I’m just going to remember to pack it in my duffel bag on my way to the Phish concert.

Disclosure: This review was based on a sample purchased from Luckyscent.

We have a draw for one sample courtesy of Luckyscent. To be eligible: What is your favorite Juliette Has A Gun Fragrance? Click on luckyscent's banner on our site and tell us what's on  their home page. Please do both to qualify Draw ends Saturday November 19, 2011

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–Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

Editor's Note: I was one of the first bloggers to have interviewed Romano (several times). One of his favorite songs is Joe Cocker's "You Can Leave Your Hat On"  from the movie  9 1/2 Weeks. Romano also won a Fragrance Foundation  France special  award in 2011

My favorite quote

MC: I noticed the last time we met you were drinking Veuve Clicqot champagne with ice… What’s with the ice?

Romano Ricci: I like breaking rules