Jean-Charles Brosseau Ombre Musquée, via the brand

 

II est des parfums frais comme des chairs d’enfants,
Doux comme les hautbois, verts comme les prairies,
— Et d’autres, corrompus, riches et triomphants,

Ayant l’expansion des choses infinies,
Comme l’ambre, le musc, le benjoin et l’encens,
Qui chantent les transports de l’esprit et des sens. ~ Charles Baudelaire, Correspondances (Les Fleurs du Mal, aka The Flowers of Evil)

(Translation: There are perfumes fresh as the flesh of children, sweet as oboes, green as meadows – and of others, corrupt, rich, and triumphant. Those have the power to expand into infinity, like amber, musk, benzoin and incense, which sing of the ecstasy of the soul and the senses.)

 Jean-Charles Brosseau scent pyramid

 One of the pleasures of frequenting an immense venue such as Esxence Milano is the element of surprise – the possibility that a well- established brand may have something new and intriguing to offer. I’m referring to Jean-Charles Brosseau, the house made famous by its introductory fragrance Ombre Rose, composed by the famous Françoise Caron in 1981 (I loved the original and wore it on my wedding day in August of 1983!). Many flankers have since been released, and a goodly number of them have been excellent: one need only turn to their website to view the famous noses engaged by Brosseau – Michel Almairac, Françoise Caron, Pierre Bourdon, and Thomas Fontaine amongst their roster. When I happened upon their booth, I was pleased to discover their most recent composition, Jean–Charles Brosseau Ombre Musquée, which was created by none other than Thomas Fontaine, the current president of Versailles’s Osmothèque. Many readers likely associate me with chypres of all sorts, yet I adore every genre – and a sublime musk is no exception. Ombre Musquée is a winner in my book, not simply because it is effortlessly beautiful – but because it insinuates a stealthy subliminal charm. That makes it, ipso facto – a subversive perfume. There’s little I cherish as much as a subversive scent.

 

Thomas Fontaine’s hands holding musk pods (at the Osmothèque)

It’s not that easy to unearth a musk these days which isn’t accompanied by a vociferous woody amber, or paired with formidable animalics which seize one by the throat and/or nose. Often, they are found in the witty company of juicy fruits, powdery florals, and/or lipstick accords; rightly so, as they feel tailor-made for one another. These perfumes enjoy universal appeal, and the more vocal ones command a loyal following which exemplifies the current day audience’s desire for ever more long-lasting fragrances. Ombre Musquée is softly tenacious, with what I would describe as sufficient sillage (it leaves an enchanting trail) – so if you are pursuing nuclear musk, this tender scent may not satisfy. If you seek wearable art, I don’t think that you will be disappointed. I was delighted by it – which was wholly unexpected.

The Temptation of Adam and Eve, c. 1415 (Master Boucicault), Getty Museum

To begin with, Ombre Musquée was fully intended for flesh, not paper. That’s not to infer that one can’t obtain a general impression of how the fragrance smells; it’s just that paper doesn’t reveal the unfolding which I consider crucial prior to investing in a new perfume. We’ve all purchased blind buys from time to time (well…most of us have), especially when a scent may be had for a fabulous price – but ideally, it’s preferable to wait and see how a fragrance plays out over time. This, I think, is Ombre Musquée’s strength: it dallies somewhere between the linear and the mutable, thereby avoiding olfactory doldrum. What initially seems straightforward and appealing divulges multiple facets with continued wear. Monsieur Fontaine’s choice of fruit is diverse: a dash of mandarin, a juicy-tart wedge of apple, the succulence of peach – none of which dominates or waxes syrupy. A soupçon of piquancy assumes the form of pink pepper – fresh, fruity, softly green and spicy – to which the warmth of cinnamon provides a subtle complement. Subtle is the word – not surdosage. Ombre Musquée is the domain of legerdemain, aromatic sleight-of-hand in action. One may not fully see what the other hand is up to, but most assuredly it holds our interest.

 detail from Livia’s Villa via Wiki

This perfume’s florals are deliberately chosen for their melodic delicacy, employing jasmine, lily, and violet as a triadic undercurrent. Feathery brushstrokes of tonka and celestial white musks infer an olfactory impressionism – which is only furthered by a restrained use of cedar, guaiac, and sandalwood. Any leathery nuances are those of well-worn suede, discreetly present. Ombre Musquée is, after all – a perfume of whispered innuendo, intention hidden between the lines of prose which lingers long after the tale is told. These little seductions can be the most effective, and the most insidious…

Notes: mandarin, pink pepper, apple, cinnamon, violet, peach, jasmine (per website, not given pyramid), lily (per website), tonka, white musks, cedarwood, guaiac wood, sandalwood, leather

 A brief note regarding versatility and cost: Ombre Musquée suits all seasons and genders, which is remarkable in itself. Were that not enough, it will not break the bank; 100 mls. may be purchased for 148 Euro (~ $168.80 in U.S. dollars)

 Sample received at Esxence from the brand – many thanks! My nose is my own.

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

 

Jean-Charles Brosseau Ombre Musquée sample via Ida

 The generous Ida Meister is offering her Esxence sample of Jean-Charles Brosseau Ombre Musquée to one registered reader in the continental US. You must register to have your entry count. To be eligible, leave a comment saying what sparked your interest about Ida’s review. Draw closes May 3, 2025

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