Aramis Perfume Calligraphy Saffron (Ida’s bottle)

It’s common knowledge that perfumes come and go with the trends, many lost to all but fond memory. How easy it is to forget that fine perfumers have long lingered behind the scenes, creating fragrant beauties for Estée Lauder, Avon, etc. As I trawled through several drawers of excellent quality discontinued fragrances, I happened upon three delightful creations composed by Aramis (under the auspices of Estée Lauder) which were designed to bridge East and West – the Aramis Perfume Calligraphy Collection.

Clement Gavarry courtesy of DSM-Firmenich

The third (and final) fragrance was Perfume Calligraphy Saffron, one of the tenderest renderings of saffron – and certainly amongst the most natural-smelling. It is attributed to fourth generation Provençal DSM-Firmenich principal perfumer Clément Gavarry, son of the brilliant Max Gavarry. Although Calligraphy Saffron has since been discontinued, it is still available online for much less than one might imagine – and if you seek a voluptuous resinous fragrance in which to cocoon yourself, this is a good candidate.

Matisse Odalisque 1923

Deeply ambery, “odalisque perfumes” (as I like to call them) have always been popular. During the years in which Aramis released their trio, many Westerners were beginning to ease themselves into perfumes from the Middle Eastern market – and Perfume Calligraphy was intended to appeal to both Eastern and Western palates. The flacons held 100 mls, housed in weighty rectangular glass topped with wood and emblazoned with golden calligraphic characters: in other words, stylized, modern, and substantial. Fortunately, the elegant bottles were worthy of their jus – and it is unclear to me precisely why they flew under the radar of aficionados.

iStock credit lunanaranga

By today’s standards, Aramis Perfume Calligraphy Saffron might appear somewhat tame to noses accustomed to stark renditions of oud, cypriol, evocations of leather. This doesn’t detract from its loveliness; indeed, if you were to judge by an initial spray your reaction might be, “Wow! This really packs a wallop!” – and I wouldn’t argue the point. Bergamot and marigold impart a solar profile, and the boozy/herbal/honeyed nature of a fine marigold absolute sings out with its seductive (and singular) tone. Saffron follows in short order, but it isn’t a stingingly metallic, edgy aroma; it waxes golden, warm and arid. Turkish rose is clearly a jewel in Calligraphy Saffron’s crown, and the addition of lavender renders it more prismatic, lending a floral/herbal facet to rosa damascena’s richly honeyed-fruity floral notes. They are interwoven seamlessly – lying in wait to wed a stunning base. And the base is something else.

Styrax Pixabay

Deceptively simple-appearing, this perfume’s foundation is anything but, because each individual material is so complex. Styrax is an ancient resin, and one which can be tricky to work with: it’s vanillic, animalic in the vein of castoreum, leathery, balsamic, woody, and impossibly sophisticated. Coumarinic tonka tempers it somewhat as it contributes notes of hay, herb, and nutty sweet grass; and vetiver is a perfume all its own, with smoky, leathery, grassy, cedar-y inflections. This is a triumvirate to be reckoned with, and it serves Perfume Calligraphy Saffron well: when all is said and done, this is a lasting fragrance with excellent sillage, perfectly genderless and soigné. Well into the drydown, you feel as if you are swathed in featherweight cashmere – a mesmerizing veil of spice, blossom, and precious balsam.

Recently, I’ve seen bottles online going for as low as $95.00 for 100mls, and generally they are available in the $150.00 or so range, sold unused and full (some ask for upwards of $350.00 or more – but there are plenty which are being sold for less). I admit – I feel less guilty enabling you about a fragrance which is affordable and as beautiful as this one is. I’m happy that it is in my collection, and I suspect that many readers would enjoy it as well.

Notes: bergamot, marigold (tagetes), saffron, Turkish rose, lavender, styrax, tonka bean, vetiver

Bottle is from my own collection. My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

Please read our review of Calligraphy Rose

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