Aftelier Perfumes Sacré Bleu (Mandy Aftel) 2024 + Hallowed Homage Giveaway

 

 

Aftelier Perfumes Sacre Bleu

Aftelier Perfumes Sacré Bleu

Artisanal natural perfumer Mandy Aftel has been gracing us with her aromatic oeuvres for almost 30 years. She has been, and continues to be a pioneer, mentor, and educator to all and sundry. The accolades and awards she has received over the years are mind-boggling, from the Art and Olfaction Septimus Piesse Visionary Award for lifetime achievement in 2022 to her three FiFi finalist showings, and a Perfumed Plume for her Secret Life of Scent in 2016, amongst the praise she has received from the New York Times, Vogue, Town and Country, and Vanity Fair. Mandy has authored six books to date about perfume and flavor, the most recent being her Museum of Scent: Exploring the Curious and Wondrous World of Fragrance, which I reviewed nearly a year ago. Her latest perfume is charmingly named Sacré Bleu, a cheeky nod to the expression Sacrebleu!, a minced oath/exclamation of amazement invoked to avoid blasphemy (Holy G-d!).

Mandy Aftel of Aftelier Perfumes

Mandy Aftel of Aftelier Perfumes

Aftelier Perfumes Sacré Bleu (Holy Blue!) revolves around the precious blue lotus (nymphaea caerulea, Egyptian blue lotus): a legendary material beloved by the ancients for thousands of years in the practice of traditional medicine for its multiple health benefits. It has been known to produce the following effects: relaxation, stress relief, focused euphoria, as an hypnotic (sleep aid), aphrodisiac (to improve sexual performance), mood enhancer, and to induce lucid dreaming. Whether it is inhaled or taken internally as a tea, blue lotus is acknowledged to be psychoactive and may produce hallucinations. In current usage, it is often inhaled via vaping, smoking, tincture, or as a tea.

Blue Lotus

Blue Lotus Illustration by Mandy Aftel

In ancient Egypt, the blue lotus was revered for its unique blooming patterns: it opens at dawn, follows the arc of the sun, and closes at dusk, which is why it was considered a symbol of rebirth – closely associated with Ra (the Sun God) and Osiris (the goddess of the Underworld). The blue lotus is actually a water lily, and figures prominently in the cultures of the Ancient Egyptians, Chinese, Japanese, Indians, Buddhists, and Greeks. This aquatic bloom symbolizes wisdom, knowledge, and the victory of the spirit over the senses: it is associated with purity and enlightenment because it emerges unsullied from muddy waters, mirroring the human soul’s journey toward spiritual consciousness. All of these factors achieve summation in the choice of two little words: sacré bleu.

Bottle of Antique Sandalwood used in Aftelier Perfumes Sacre Bleu

 100 year old Bottle of Antique Sandalwood which was used in Aftelier Perfumes Sacré Bleu

Mandy has been collecting rare and antique absolutes and oils for many years, and it’s a joy to experience them in her formulae. Many years ago, I was speechless when she sent me a flacon of then-100-year-old patchouli (evocative of Homer’s wine-dark sea!), and a generous sample of boronia. It felt as if they were illicit substances, they were so potent and hypnotic. During that time, another perfumer had sent me one ml. of blue lotus absolute, in order to further my olfactory education. The effect of such rare beauties cannot be overestimated: it was revelatory, illuminating parts of the brain which must have lain dormant for some time. One comes to believe in the holiness inherent in venerable antique Mysore sandalwood and the prohibitively costly blue lotus – and why they were believed to possess mythical powers.

Aftelier Perfumes Sacré Bleu is supremely meditative by virtue of its exceptional components, let alone the intricate tapestry which is woven from a modicum of sublime fragrant personae. I emphasize this because in comparison to most perfume receipts these days (which tend to be quite lengthy), Mandy’s listings are quite modest. That’s the magic of wisdom, alchemy, and an unwillingness to compromise quality. What could be more silken, creamy, than the finest sandalwood available (or scarcely available, in this particular case)? There is a distinctly mesmerising, narcotic appeal to Antipodean boronia, with its champaca-redolent rich tenacity: outrageously complex, it wafts so many facets – tea, gentle tobacco and cinnamon tones, as well as fresh, green, and sweet, juicy fruit. A voluptuous olfactory material, it recalls the high-quality floral incenses one is likely to find in India. To pair it with mimosa feels instinctively natural: spicy, honeyed, waxy, and reminiscent of hay. Blue lotus?  It’s extremely heady, sweet (in the manner of Parma violet), and also somewhat waxy, fatty in the best possible way. Its limpid, aquatic nuances become apparent in the drydown. Blue lotus presents itself as a liquid; it is viscous and not the easiest material with which to work – with an average price point (for 100 Gms goes of €2,684.00 – for 3.53 oz. Small wonder that is hasn’t been smelt on a wider scale.

When first applied to the flesh, Sacré Bleu exhibits a sharp, honeyed aspect with notes of overripe apricot. Its aromatic companion boronia is no lightweight either: together they comprise a formidable couple steeped in erotic overtones. The inclusion of methyl anthranilate is known for its ability to flesh out orange blossom, tuberose, and jasmine fragrances – but contributes its noteworthy grape-like odor to Sacré Bleu’s mystique and sense of heightened indigo hue. Beta ionone is the sweetest of the ionones (often found in henna, petunia, osmanthus, boronia, and violet perfumes); it bestows woody, berry-like, fruity, floral, orris, tropical and beeswax notes to the overall composition. The black tea provides a delicately smoky earthiness which is grounding and astringent, making it a welcome addition to Boronia fragrances in general; and ambergris invokes subtle aquatic characteristics, while ameliorating everything in its path. I’m certain that Mandy and I would agree: there are no current aroma chemicals which even come close to it, no matter how lovely they may be. Once again, ambergris is not a bon marché material – but it is worth every cent. When one considers all the angles, it is apparent that Aftelier Sacré Bleu has earned its lofty status. Uniquely riveting in its own right, this fragrance is an homage to the hallowed.

Notes: antique Mysore sandalwood, blue lotus, ambergris, boronia, black tea, mimosa, beta ionone, methyl anthranilate

Sample kindly provided by the perfumer – many thanks! My nose is my own…

all photos courtesy of Aftelier Perfumes

Sacre Bleu Aftelier Perfumes

Aftelier Perfumes Sacré Bleu mini

Thanks to the generosity of perfumer Mandy Aftel, we have one mini bottle of Aftelier Perfumes Sacré Bleu for one registered reader worldwide. The giveaway is for registered readers only, so be sure to register if you have not done so. To be eligible please let us know what appealed to you in Ida’s review, where you live and your favorite Aftelier Perfumes fragrance. Draw closes 11/9/2024

Mandy Aftel received a ÇaFleureBon Best of Scent in the Hall of Fame category from Michelyn in 2021, 2023 Best Natural Perfumer and Best Book, as did Ida for The Museum of Scents – Exploring the Curious & Wondrous World Of Fragrances. Ida awarded Aftelier Perfumes Joie de Vert a ÇaFleureBon Top 10 perfume of 2021.  Cepes and Tuberose is a ÇaFleureBon Modern Masterpiece. Please read Ermano’s article here

Please read Michelyn’s interview with Mandy Aftel here

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38 comments

  • Thank you so so much for this show-stopping review! Dear Ida, every word you wrote was so deeply understanding of the essences, what I was trying to create and so beautifully said! And Michelyn, I am so honored by the gorgeousness of this review and your kind attention to my whole body of work and for all the years of your generous support. I am just knocked out! mandy

  • Ida’s review totally drew me in! I love how she captures the deep, almost mystical allure of Mandy Aftel’s creations. The way she describes the blue lotus and antique sandalwood as sacred, almost mythical materials, just makes me want to smell it immediately. And that mix of earthy black tea and rare ambergris sounds like it grounds the whole fragrance in this ancient, meditative vibe. Her descriptions of each note—especially that “outrageously complex” boronia—make it feel like you’re getting a mini history and olfactory lesson in one. I’m also kind of fascinated by how she talks about the cost and rarity of these ingredients; it’s like we’re getting a peek into a world of luxury that’s super selective and special. All in all, this fragrance sounds like pure magic bottled up!

    I am from the EU

  • I was so excited to hear that Mandy has release a new perfume as I so love her work. Thank you Ida for the deep dive into this perfume as I had no idea of what blue lotus would or should smell like. However I was sure that in Mandy’s deft hands that this would be memorable. Sweetness, earthiness, and aquatic touch with all the other complementary notes makes it sound so appealling and very unique indeed.
    I live in the USA and my favorite Aftelier perfume is Parfum Prive. Thanks for the giveaway!

  • Ida Meister is known for her evocative and detailed descriptions of fragrances, often weaving in personal anecdotes and historical context that bring the scents to life. Her reviews are appreciated for their sensory richness and the way she captures the essence of a perfume, making readers feel as if they are experiencing the fragrance themselves. This really appeals to me. I live in Trzebnica, Poland, EU. I never tried Aftelier Perfumes but I would definitely love Sacré Bleu.

  • Hallowed Homage Giveaway Ida mentioned the use of a very rare Sandlewood. That Sacre Blue contains many rare and interesting essences. That appeals to me I have many of Mandys perfumes. I am very fond of Aftelier Violet Ambrosia.

  • A new Mandy Aftel fragrance-how exciting! I love that Mandy shares her vintage tincture stash with us. The 100 year old sandalwood oil. just smell amazing on its own. The blue lotus note sounds amazing, heady and sweet and pairing well with fruit notes and black tea. The ambergris seems to bring the whole composition together with its subtle aquatic notes. My favorite Aftelier perfume is Cuir de Gardenis. MD, USA.

  • Ida, it is so interesting to read your reviews! They tend to educate about both history and materials, and this review of Sacre Bleu was no exception. I am not familiar with blue lotus or boronia as fragrance materials, but now I am very curious, and would love to smell what Mandy has done with them and other precious ingredients. I have never before tried an Aftelier scent; Sacre Bleu sounds like a very special introduction to the brand. Thank you for the review and giveaway.
    I’m in WV, USA

  • I’ve had little experience with blue lotus perfumes, but I’ve been curious about this heady “somewhat waxy” material for a while. Speaking of materials, what Mandy included here sounds exceptional, especially that Antipodean boronia’s “outrageously complex” mix of facets. The astringent counterpoint of black tea and aquatic ambergris are also intriguing complements to the main floral accord. Sacré Bleu sounds like an exceptional profile of blue lotus and what can be done with special materials treated with care.

    I’m in the USA. I haven’t tried any Aftelier Perfumes.

  • Wow! What a spectacular review. Sacre Bleu sounds absolutely stunning. I just visited Mandy’s museum this last weekend and it was such a treat. I highly recommend it to everyone reading this as well as her book about the museum. Her attention and love for the history and the craft of natural perfumes is always apparent in her creations. Whomever wins this is lucky indeed. I hope to sample it soon! Thank you so much for the draw and the review. I live in the US.

  • Ida’s review totally drew me in—she makes Sacré Bleu sound like a journey back through ancient history and rare luxury all at once. The way she describes the blue lotus, with all its mystical, almost psychedelic qualities, and then the insanely rare sandalwood and ambergris… you can just feel how precious and intense these ingredients are. I love how she talks about the perfume being meditative, even spiritual—it’s like it’s not just a scent but an experience. Plus, the way she writes about the boronia and tea notes with that mix of fruity and smoky makes me want to smell it so badly. It’s like a treasure trove of depth and mystery in a bottle!

    EU

  • Oh goodness I have this at the top of my want list!! I just adore Mandy’s ambergris solid, Hey Jude (rose) perfume and so many others! I’ve tried Blue Lotus fragrances by Teone Reinthal (incredible and unforgettable!!!!) and April Aromatics (unique and sublime!!) so I just know this will be a love…. Especially with this precious Mysore Sandalwood and one of my favorite supporting notes – a lightly smoky black tea! Ok Blue Lotus Deities! Work your magic for your humble admiring servant!
    U.S.

  • subtle aquatic characteristics, while ameliorating everything in its path. I’m certain that Mandy and I would agree: there are no current aroma chemicals which even come close to it, no matter how lovely they may be. Once again, ambergris is not a bon marché material – but it is worth every cent. When one considers all the angles, it is apparent that Aftelier Sacré Bleu has earned its lofty status. Uniquely riveting in its own right, this fragrance is an homage to the hallowed.

    Notes: antique Mysore sandalwood, blue lotus, ambergris, boronia, black tea, mimosa, beta ionone, methyl anthranilate. A beautifully written description by Ida this is a house that has been on my radar for a while but I still haven’t tried anything as of yet. I am really fascinated by the ingredients especially beta ion one, black tea, boronia, antique mysore sandalwood and blue lotus. The ingredients used are definitely second to none. Thanks a lot from the UK

  • riveting in its own right, this fragrance is an homage to the hallowed.

    Notes: antique Mysore sandalwood, blue lotus, ambergris, boronia, black tea, mimosa, beta ionone, methyl anthranilateThere is a distinctly mesmerising, narcotic appeal to Antipodean boronia, with its champaca-redolent rich tenacity: outrageously complex, it wafts so many facets – tea, gentle tobacco and cinnamon tones, as well as fresh, green, and sweet, juicy fruit. A voluptuous olfactory material, it recalls the high-quality floral incenses one is likely to find in India. To pair it with mimosa feels instinctively natural: spicy, honeyed, waxy, and reminiscent of hay. Blue lotus? It’s extremely heady, sweet (in the manner of Parma violet), and also somewhat waxy, fatty in the best possible way. Its limpid, aquatic nuances become apparent in the drydown. Blue lotus presents itself as a liquid; it is viscous and not the easiest material with which to work – with an average price point (for 100 Gms goes of €2,684.00 – for 3.53 oz. Small wonder that is hasn’t been smelt on a wider scale. I was particularly intrigued by Ida description of baronia wafting tones of tobacco, cinnamon and tea. This sounds like something created by a magician or sorceress. I am afraid this is a house that I have not got any experience with. Thanks a million from the UK

  • Such a beautiful review Ida. Here is my favorite part.
    When first applied to the flesh, Sacré Bleu exhibits a sharp, honeyed aspect with notes of overripe apricot. Its aromatic companion boronia is no lightweight either: together they comprise a formidable couple steeped in erotic overtones.
    Thank you for the generous giveaway, it’s very hard to choose a favorite. But I do adore Vanilla Smoke in the perfume version. I live in the USA.

  • This review interested me a lot. I knew nothing about blue lotus or boronia, which I guess are not as commonly used as other notes, but Ida Meister made them sound unusual and complex. I am intrigued by her description of combining them with black tea. I live in North Carolina in the USA, and although I have not tried any fragrances by Mandy Aftel, this review certainly piqued my interest in them,

  • Patricia R. says:

    What an exhilarating and sublime set of ingredients. The promise of spiritual renewal upon sniffing this is hanging there. I live in the EU and would like to win this one.

  • Colette DelFrate says:

    Excellent review. So happy for Mandy!! I was amazed to learn the cost of blue lotus for 3.53 ounce and read about the scent description. Sounds incredible! Mandy’s detail for the best quality raw ingredients is truly impressive. I’m in awe I haven’t had the pleasure yet to smell Mandy’s perfume as I’m totally new to this fascinating field but I’ll say Sacre Bleu would be my fave. Thank you for this beautiful giveaway ❤️
    Greetings from Canada

  • I loved the indepth review and all the vivid details what this rare scent is all about. I can almost smell this prescious nectar already!

    I live in Finland and am obsessed with Cuir de Gardenia among other Aftel masterpieces.

  • As a lover of the ancient Egyptian civilization, I have a deep connection to the blue lotus, a symbol of rebirth and enlightenment in ancient Egyptian culture. Mandy Aftel’s use of this revered flower in Sacré Bleu truly resonates with me, as it evokes the essence of Egypt’s history and spiritual symbolism. The blend of rare and antique ingredients, like Mysore sandalwood and ambergris, combined with blue lotus, promises an experience that feels both mystical and meditative. I admire Mandy’s artistry and dedication to sourcing exceptional materials, and I would be thrilled to experience this homage to ancient wisdom and natural beauty firsthand! Salute from Paris 😉

  • melanierosefragrances says:

    Thank you for this wonderful review! I learned so much. I would love to win a mini bottle of this!

  • redactedscents says:

    I’ve been fascinated with scents since I was a little girl – I had a small perfume kit that I had picked up in a museum gift shop that entertained me for hours and I knew I wanted to be a scientist who made fantastic potions. Now I do research and development in a genetics lab but I’m pretty burnt out and want to rekindle the joy those initial experiments brought me. I’ve been dissapointed in the current state of the fragrance industry which feels very uniform and sterile – with each reformulation losing a little more character. I started digging for places to learn the old ways and Aftelier caught my eye as a fascinating place to start on a new education path. I’ve started collecting books and watching videos and amassing training materials! I loved Ida’s detailed breakdown by extract as with such rare materials just living vicariously through a description is a unique opportunity to get to know the extract a little better. I’ve currently have some antique ambergris and bergamoss in my cart while I’ve been perusing extracts! Best wishes from Texas 🙂

  • Honestly everything about this review appeals to me. I am struck by the reverence the perfumer gives to each ingredient and the commitment to quality aged materials. The fact that Bleu Lotus is known to have so many therapeutic properties coupled with psychoactive effects peaks my interest! No inhalation, or ingestion for me- I’d love to experience the perfume. I recently was given a sample of my first Aftel perfume, Ambra Luminosa. So, its my favorite, such a stunning creation. In Texas.

  • Lucinda Marrs says:

    After reading Ida’s review of Sacre Bleu I am in absolute breath taking anticipation of experiencing this perfume on my own skin. The way she describes the journey of it’s dry down in such rapturous poetic language has me mesmerised. I too love the antique bottles of ancient essences and once had a perfume made for me by Mandy that contained 100 yr old cassia that too awakened parts of my brain that had lain dormant until that time. Therefore I can dream of what it is to experience the patchouli that is homer’s wine dark sea. Ida you are such a poet, I love the pairing of your writing with Mandy’s genius.
    Back to sacre blue and the formidable erotic coupling of boronia and blue lotus together with methyl anthranilate bringing its grape overtones to the symphony at play. So then with the joy of beta ionone; the gorgeous smell of violets; black tea with its delicate smoky earthiness and the ambergris lending the subtle aquatic characteristics joining that symphony, I can only imagine what a beguiling experience for the senses that must be. I long to experience it for myself.
    As for my favourite perfume of Mandy’s, aside from the bespoke one she made for me, it has to be parfum prive. Apparently she made it purely for herself but it was simply too gorgeous not to share. I wholeheartedly agree!
    I am here in beautiful Crabbes creek, NSW, Australia.

  • raquelrosa7343 says:

    I am entirely a novice at learning about this absolutely stunning and amazing world of natural perfumes. Once your nose and soul have found these exquisite multidimensional never ending faceted aromas, you just simply never want for anything else. Ida’s divine way of speaking about each note and how they cohesively worked together to bring about each other’s beauty was as if I was witnessing a one of a kind masterpiece being composed. Dear Ida, now I can’t stop thinking about Mandy’s gorgeous and unique to this world Sacré Bleu!
    Thank you for such marvelous writing. I am so pleased to have met your writing today.
    My current favorites of Mandy’s perfume in liquid form are Hey Jude, Honey Blossom and Amber Tapestry. However, the one that my heart belongs to is Mandy’s Antique Ambergris in solid perfume form.

  • I am very intrigued by the idea of Sacre Bleu especially the boronia aspect. Working in flower shops myself the scent of boronia is always a standout in the shop so I am quite curious as to how that plays out with the Blue Lotus. I live in Charleston, SC and my favorite (only as of now) scent from Aftelier is Momento Mori 🙂

  • I once saved up enough to get a few samples of Mandy’s precious creations after reading one of her books, and what an exceptional olfactory journey and delight! Hey Jude was the best on my skin, but Parfum Prive took my breath away! Sacre Bleu must be a new one… I didn’t even know that blue lotus was a scent, but leave it to Mandy Aftel to give us the truest, most artful rendition of these rare and precious substances. Thank you, Ida for this beautiful article – as always you have sown in me a desire to experience something I had no concept of prior!

  • I love that old bottle of sandalwood oil. Fascinating that something from that long ago lives on in a new fragrance. That last paragraph was so interesting about the components of this fragrance. Mandy must be a magician with the best of ingredients for her potion. I would be afraid to work with that blue lotus at that price. I have not smelled any of her fragrances. I think I’ll pop into my local shop for that book, this article reminds me I had meant to do that. Will be a good winter read. Thanks for the chance. USA.

  • Ida, what an absolutely beautiful review of what must be an absolutely stunning perfume! I love blue lotus fragrances (as few and far between as they are, given how expensive the absolute is), so my jaw dropped when I realized Sacré Bleu was referencing THAT blue! What I love most about Mandy Aftel’s perfumes is that they always feel whole, every ingredient selected for the role it plays in the composition. I get the same sense of wholeness from the way Ida has written about Sacré Bleu. Blue lotus may be the star, but it’s buoyed by other equally amazing materials (100 year old sandalwood?! Real ambergris?! Boronia?!), all selected for the nuance they add when paired together. I really adore some of Mandy’s other unique florals like Cepes and Tuberose and Orchid, and would love to experience Sacré Bleu! Best wishes from the US!

  • Elizabeth Noreña says:

    I’ve never smelled blue lotus, so I’m intrigued. And I always love Ida’s poetic reviews. Wow!

  • Boronia is one of My tippy top favorite scents – so naturally I love Mandy’s Lumiere- it is to die for – and I enjoyed Idas thorough writing on Blue Lotus … makes me want to drink it

  • David Furman says:

    It’s not often one finds the perfect scent. Not simply to represent oneself but also displaying the characteristics of prestige. SACRE BLEU. The suprise comes in the form of a perfume embodying pleasure. The feeling of knowing it is able to lift the moods of many. Thank you for this lively depiction what separates the best from the rest…From Jacksonville, NC.

  • Hello this os a wonderful description.. I loved the inclusion of mythology and the articulate and sensual ways each component was described . It was utterly fascinating. My favorite Mandy scent is crepes and tuberose but that’s only because I’ve been unable to smell the others just yet … very attracted to many of her wonderful creations especially the ones featuring those bygone aromas from substances no longer easily obtainable . I believe I did get a sample of Sepia but I am dying to smell many of the them such as Sepia, Forest Bathing, Perfum Prive, Honey Blossom , Oud Laban . I often just smell my bottle I consider it almost too sacred to wear it especially considering how our environment is deteriorating. Thank you for the lovely read ! I enjoyed it especially healing from oral surgery.

  • Although this perfume sounds simply amazing, I’m not entering this contest (I won a mini from Aftelier and Cafleurebon previously, which resulted in purchasing the full bottle because I apparently fell in love).

    I just wanted to say what an informative and enjoyable review this was. Thank you for an enjoyable read!

  • What a mystical fragrance! I am almost ashamed to say there are several notes that I have no idea what they smell like, such as boronia and blue lotus, and the paragraph regarding their highly narcotic, nearly trance-inducing properties has really piqued my curiosity!
    It sounds like Mandy Aftel has extremely clear ideas regarding what she wishes to achieve, and a vast knowledge about these precious (or actually priceless) essences, their story and their specifics.
    I am very curious to smell this magical sounding potion!
    From EU.

  • The rare ingredients make Aftelier Perfumes Sacrè Bleu unique. Ida describes so beautifully her experience with this magical essences and share her impressions with us. Mystic, alluring, luxurious and still so close to us, that’s what she transmited to me about this perfume.
    I don’t have a favorite Aftlerie Perfumes yet but this one might be.
    I live in Italy

  • How can I not be intrigued by an homage to the sacred? Just wow, Ida. I have had a few encounters with fragrances that have provided that innate rumbling in me. I continue to search for more, more often than not, fruitless endeavors. My favorite is Lumiere. I am in the US.

  • A homage to the hallowed
    This was perfectly said Z love to try it !
    I love Secret Garden , Cepess ans Tuberose by Mandy but haven’t gotten an opportunity to try the others like Lumiere , Palimpsest , Forest Bathing . Love her site and just reading the descriptions I’d love to visit her scent museum one day