Aftelier Perfumes Sacré Bleu (Mandy Aftel) 2024 + Hallowed Homage Giveaway

 

 

Aftelier Perfumes Sacre Bleu

Aftelier Perfumes Sacré Bleu

Artisanal natural perfumer Mandy Aftel has been gracing us with her aromatic oeuvres for almost 30 years. She has been, and continues to be a pioneer, mentor, and educator to all and sundry. The accolades and awards she has received over the years are mind-boggling, from the Art and Olfaction Septimus Piesse Visionary Award for lifetime achievement in 2022 to her three FiFi finalist showings, and a Perfumed Plume for her Secret Life of Scent in 2016, amongst the praise she has received from the New York Times, Vogue, Town and Country, and Vanity Fair. Mandy has authored six books to date about perfume and flavor, the most recent being her Museum of Scent: Exploring the Curious and Wondrous World of Fragrance, which I reviewed nearly a year ago. Her latest perfume is charmingly named Sacré Bleu, a cheeky nod to the expression Sacrebleu!, a minced oath/exclamation of amazement invoked to avoid blasphemy (Holy G-d!).

Mandy Aftel of Aftelier Perfumes

Mandy Aftel of Aftelier Perfumes

Aftelier Perfumes Sacré Bleu (Holy Blue!) revolves around the precious blue lotus (nymphaea caerulea, Egyptian blue lotus): a legendary material beloved by the ancients for thousands of years in the practice of traditional medicine for its multiple health benefits. It has been known to produce the following effects: relaxation, stress relief, focused euphoria, as an hypnotic (sleep aid), aphrodisiac (to improve sexual performance), mood enhancer, and to induce lucid dreaming. Whether it is inhaled or taken internally as a tea, blue lotus is acknowledged to be psychoactive and may produce hallucinations. In current usage, it is often inhaled via vaping, smoking, tincture, or as a tea.

Blue Lotus

Blue Lotus Illustration by Mandy Aftel

In ancient Egypt, the blue lotus was revered for its unique blooming patterns: it opens at dawn, follows the arc of the sun, and closes at dusk, which is why it was considered a symbol of rebirth – closely associated with Ra (the Sun God) and Osiris (the goddess of the Underworld). The blue lotus is actually a water lily, and figures prominently in the cultures of the Ancient Egyptians, Chinese, Japanese, Indians, Buddhists, and Greeks. This aquatic bloom symbolizes wisdom, knowledge, and the victory of the spirit over the senses: it is associated with purity and enlightenment because it emerges unsullied from muddy waters, mirroring the human soul’s journey toward spiritual consciousness. All of these factors achieve summation in the choice of two little words: sacré bleu.

Bottle of Antique Sandalwood used in Aftelier Perfumes Sacre Bleu

 100 year old Bottle of Antique Sandalwood which was used in Aftelier Perfumes Sacré Bleu

Mandy has been collecting rare and antique absolutes and oils for many years, and it’s a joy to experience them in her formulae. Many years ago, I was speechless when she sent me a flacon of then-100-year-old patchouli (evocative of Homer’s wine-dark sea!), and a generous sample of boronia. It felt as if they were illicit substances, they were so potent and hypnotic. During that time, another perfumer had sent me one ml. of blue lotus absolute, in order to further my olfactory education. The effect of such rare beauties cannot be overestimated: it was revelatory, illuminating parts of the brain which must have lain dormant for some time. One comes to believe in the holiness inherent in venerable antique Mysore sandalwood and the prohibitively costly blue lotus – and why they were believed to possess mythical powers.

Aftelier Perfumes Sacré Bleu is supremely meditative by virtue of its exceptional components, let alone the intricate tapestry which is woven from a modicum of sublime fragrant personae. I emphasize this because in comparison to most perfume receipts these days (which tend to be quite lengthy), Mandy’s listings are quite modest. That’s the magic of wisdom, alchemy, and an unwillingness to compromise quality. What could be more silken, creamy, than the finest sandalwood available (or scarcely available, in this particular case)? There is a distinctly mesmerising, narcotic appeal to Antipodean boronia, with its champaca-redolent rich tenacity: outrageously complex, it wafts so many facets – tea, gentle tobacco and cinnamon tones, as well as fresh, green, and sweet, juicy fruit. A voluptuous olfactory material, it recalls the high-quality floral incenses one is likely to find in India. To pair it with mimosa feels instinctively natural: spicy, honeyed, waxy, and reminiscent of hay. Blue lotus?  It’s extremely heady, sweet (in the manner of Parma violet), and also somewhat waxy, fatty in the best possible way. Its limpid, aquatic nuances become apparent in the drydown. Blue lotus presents itself as a liquid; it is viscous and not the easiest material with which to work – with an average price point (for 100 Gms goes of €2,684.00 – for 3.53 oz. Small wonder that is hasn’t been smelt on a wider scale.

When first applied to the flesh, Sacré Bleu exhibits a sharp, honeyed aspect with notes of overripe apricot. Its aromatic companion boronia is no lightweight either: together they comprise a formidable couple steeped in erotic overtones. The inclusion of methyl anthranilate is known for its ability to flesh out orange blossom, tuberose, and jasmine fragrances – but contributes its noteworthy grape-like odor to Sacré Bleu’s mystique and sense of heightened indigo hue. Beta ionone is the sweetest of the ionones (often found in henna, petunia, osmanthus, boronia, and violet perfumes); it bestows woody, berry-like, fruity, floral, orris, tropical and beeswax notes to the overall composition. The black tea provides a delicately smoky earthiness which is grounding and astringent, making it a welcome addition to Boronia fragrances in general; and ambergris invokes subtle aquatic characteristics, while ameliorating everything in its path. I’m certain that Mandy and I would agree: there are no current aroma chemicals which even come close to it, no matter how lovely they may be. Once again, ambergris is not a bon marché material – but it is worth every cent. When one considers all the angles, it is apparent that Aftelier Sacré Bleu has earned its lofty status. Uniquely riveting in its own right, this fragrance is an homage to the hallowed.

Notes: antique Mysore sandalwood, blue lotus, ambergris, boronia, black tea, mimosa, beta ionone, methyl anthranilate

Sample kindly provided by the perfumer – many thanks! My nose is my own…

all photos courtesy of Aftelier Perfumes

Sacre Bleu Aftelier Perfumes

Aftelier Perfumes Sacré Bleu mini

Thanks to the generosity of perfumer Mandy Aftel, we have one mini bottle of Aftelier Perfumes Sacré Bleu for one registered reader worldwide. The giveaway is for registered readers only, so be sure to register if you have not done so. To be eligible please let us know what appealed to you in Ida’s review, where you live and your favorite Aftelier Perfumes fragrance. Draw closes 11/9/2024

Mandy Aftel received a ÇaFleureBon Best of Scent in the Hall of Fame category from Michelyn in 2021, 2023 Best Natural Perfumer and Best Book, as did Ida for The Museum of Scents – Exploring the Curious & Wondrous World Of Fragrances. Ida awarded Aftelier Perfumes Joie de Vert a ÇaFleureBon Top 10 perfume of 2021.  Cepes and Tuberose is a ÇaFleureBon Modern Masterpiece. Please read Ermano’s article here

Please read Michelyn’s interview with Mandy Aftel here

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7 comments

  • Thank you so so much for this show-stopping review! Dear Ida, every word you wrote was so deeply understanding of the essences, what I was trying to create and so beautifully said! And Michelyn, I am so honored by the gorgeousness of this review and your kind attention to my whole body of work and for all the years of your generous support. I am just knocked out! mandy

  • Ida’s review totally drew me in! I love how she captures the deep, almost mystical allure of Mandy Aftel’s creations. The way she describes the blue lotus and antique sandalwood as sacred, almost mythical materials, just makes me want to smell it immediately. And that mix of earthy black tea and rare ambergris sounds like it grounds the whole fragrance in this ancient, meditative vibe. Her descriptions of each note—especially that “outrageously complex” boronia—make it feel like you’re getting a mini history and olfactory lesson in one. I’m also kind of fascinated by how she talks about the cost and rarity of these ingredients; it’s like we’re getting a peek into a world of luxury that’s super selective and special. All in all, this fragrance sounds like pure magic bottled up!

    I am from the EU

  • I was so excited to hear that Mandy has release a new perfume as I so love her work. Thank you Ida for the deep dive into this perfume as I had no idea of what blue lotus would or should smell like. However I was sure that in Mandy’s deft hands that this would be memorable. Sweetness, earthiness, and aquatic touch with all the other complementary notes makes it sound so appealling and very unique indeed.
    I live in the USA and my favorite Aftelier perfume is Parfum Prive. Thanks for the giveaway!

  • Ida Meister is known for her evocative and detailed descriptions of fragrances, often weaving in personal anecdotes and historical context that bring the scents to life. Her reviews are appreciated for their sensory richness and the way she captures the essence of a perfume, making readers feel as if they are experiencing the fragrance themselves. This really appeals to me. I live in Trzebnica, Poland, EU. I never tried Aftelier Perfumes but I would definitely love Sacré Bleu.

  • Hallowed Homage Giveaway Ida mentioned the use of a very rare Sandlewood. That Sacre Blue contains many rare and interesting essences. That appeals to me I have many of Mandys perfumes. I am very fond of Aftelier Violet Ambrosia.

  • A new Mandy Aftel fragrance-how exciting! I love that Mandy shares her vintage tincture stash with us. The 100 year old sandalwood oil. just smell amazing on its own. The blue lotus note sounds amazing, heady and sweet and pairing well with fruit notes and black tea. The ambergris seems to bring the whole composition together with its subtle aquatic notes. My favorite Aftelier perfume is Cuir de Gardenis. MD, USA.

  • Ida, it is so interesting to read your reviews! They tend to educate about both history and materials, and this review of Sacre Bleu was no exception. I am not familiar with blue lotus or boronia as fragrance materials, but now I am very curious, and would love to smell what Mandy has done with them and other precious ingredients. I have never before tried an Aftelier scent; Sacre Bleu sounds like a very special introduction to the brand. Thank you for the review and giveaway.
    I’m in WV, USA