Grossmith King’s Salute Review (Robertet) 2023 + A Regal Fougère Giveaway

Grossmith King's Salute

Grossmith King’s Salute photo by Jana Menard of Fragrance Vault©

In a world where Houbigant’s Fougère Royale was created by Paul Parquet in 1882, it’s difficult to write about a Fougère perfume without, at least, mentioning it. That’s why I’ve done so here within the first sentence – to give the originator the reverence it deserves and to get it out of the way early. For it’s not only a benchmark in terms of the idea (scenting a scentless plant: the fern) and approach (highlighting the olfactory glory of coumarin), it also coined the name for an entire genre of perfumes that followed. An olfactive family where Grossmith King’s Salute most certainly lives.

Grossmith Fragrances

via Grossmith website

Released in 2023 as a tribute to the coronation of King Charles III, Grossmith King’s Salute encapsulates both the monarch’s widely reported love for nature and the rather weighty heritage of the Grossmith brand itself. Established in 1835, Grossmith is one of the longest running perfume houses in English history. Throughout the brand’s life it held royal warrants – an acknowledgement of excellence and quality awarded to companies or individuals after supplying the most senior members of the royal family for more than five years – in the UK, Greece and Spain. It’s an achievement that the modern incarnation of the brand tips-its-hat-to with their Royal Collection and previous releases such as Betrothal and Diamond Jubilee Bouquet.

Simon, Amanda, Eleanor and Kate Brooke Grossmith

Simon, Amanda, Eleanor and Kate Brooke via Grossmith website

The Grossmith brand was carefully rebooted in 2006 after falling into a long period of dormancy and it’s now run by the fifth and sixth generations of the Grossmith family, who continue to treat those original formulae with high esteem. Working alongside the Robertet fragrance house they construct perfumes that highlight a long lost style and intricacy while using quality natural materials similar to those that might have been prevalent in the 19th century. And in the house’s style Grossmith King’s Salute doesn’t blast out of the atomiser in the way many modern fragrances do, as the brand makes their fragrances work in a different way. Their scents unfurl over time, shifting and repositioning themselves to reveal new layers and depths on skin.

Best Fougeres

via unsplash apped by Michelyn

The opening of Grossmith King’s Salute is soothing with its focus on lavender tones and peppery edging. The touchstones of the grail Fougère previously mentioned are all present (bergamot, lavender, a slab of coumarin and oakmoss) and they make themselves felt immediately with the characteristically classic accord conjuring tweed notions of antique wood, cluttered mahogany sideboards, and overtly sartorial grandfathers. But it’s the accomplished blending and the additional olfactive shading that really elevates King’s Salute.

Adding the astringent herbal nuances of thyme seems to turn the greener parts of the lavender a little spikier, better fusing the lauded purple flower’s power with the damp and woody tendrils of the oakmoss. In addition, the quiet luxury of the iris enriches everything. In particular it adds width to the footprint of the coumarin, tinting it and elaborating its sweet, almond-ish textures before the oakmoss and those familiar modern exalting musks and amber molecules ground it all to the skin.

Grossmith London King's Salute review

Grossmith King’s Salute photo by Jana Menard of Fragrance Vault©

Given the overtly regal inspiration, it’s no surprise that Grossmith King’s Salute smells majestic and classic. Refined, expertly blended, employing sumptuous ingredients that elevate the structure- which it does, expertly. There are no opaque aspects of a patchouli/oakmoss, no over-sweetened elements or vanillin cloy nor excessive soapiness. It’s just an extraordinarily well realised Fougère – Grossmith are not so much reinventing the wheel, as they are buffing it to a high shine before dressing the wheel in the most sought-after tire that money can buy.

Notes: bergamot, elemodor, blackcurrant, black pepper, lavender, lavandin, thyme, iris, cardamom, oakmoss, amber, cashmeran accord, musk, coumarin

Disclaimer: a sample of Grossmith King’s Salute was provided by Jovoy Mayfair.

 

-Oli Marlow, Contributor

King's Salute by Grossmith

Grossmith King’s Salute photo courtesy of the brand

Thanks to the generosity of Grossmith London and Jana Menard of Fragrance Vault we have a 50ml bottle of King’s Salute for one registered reader in either the USA or UK only. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparks your interest about Oli’s review and where you live. Draw closes 7/13/2024

Enjoy Editor Rachel K. Ng’s review of Saffron Rose and Golden Chypre which are both in the Black Label collection

To learn more about Grossmith and its legacy, visit their website here. Jana Menard and Fragrance Vault, please read WE LOVE THAT STORE here.

Editor’s Note: Grossmith Has Moved To 53 Davies Street, Mayfair.

Follow us on Instagram: @cafleurebonofficial @olimarlowsmells @grossmithlondon  @fragrance.vault

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28 comments

  • Ramses Perez says:

    I agree with Olí, nothing says classic like a Fougère fragrance. Truly one of the oldest categories of fragrances and still going strong to this day, it’s a refreshing, masculine style of fragrances. Grossmith King’s Salute is just taking the infrastructure of a Fougère fragrance and elevating it with natural ingredients but at the same time adding the thyme and coumarin to sort of modernize it a bit. It’s a house that has been around since the 1800s, they’re not trying to reinvent the wheel but rather keep the family tradition going but also take it to the modern standards of perfumery if you will. I love a Fougère fragrance and this one looks like a classic offering to me, great job. Cheers from the USA.

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    This interests me as a huge fan of coumarin, Fougere Royale, and the overall fougere genre. I loved the idea that this isn’t some sort of gimmicky of ridiculous spin on the original, but a refined, polished version of the theme. That’s exactly what I’m looking for–not aromachemical theatrics and twists on the fougere, but a nod to the beauty of the original. It definitely was, as mentioned here, an ode to coumarin and a brilliant shaping of that material. Thanks so much for the draw! I’m in the US (Colorado).

  • AleksCipri says:

    I love fougeres! My spouse even more. I’m so excited about this one as Grossmith really knows how to do very sophisticated and elegant compositions. I particularly like the fact that this one seems to be focusing on lavander and peppery nuances which I really like. Additionally, the iris in the background sounds like something that would really nicely enhance the whole composition. Cheers from Illinois, US.

  • Surya says:

    I’m absolutely captivated by Oli Marlow’s review of Grossmith King’s Salute. The way he describes the fragrance’s ability to unfurl over time, revealing new layers and depths on the skin, really intrigues me. I appreciate the attention to quality and the use of natural materials that mimic the fragrances from the 19th century. The regal inspiration and the classic, yet luxurious scent profile make it sound like a truly majestic fragrance. I live in Nashville, TN, USA.

  • Derrick says:

    I love fougeres and never tried Grossmith and I love that King’s Salute is expertly blended with fine ingredients and the iris got my attention.Thanks for a great review and history
    USA

  • JSO says:

    King’s Salute sounds very appealing. Rather than trying to create a new style of a fougere, Oli’s rview tells me that Grossmith is creating a classical style fougere. A “well realised” fougere is something that is easy to appreciate. Located in USA.

  • Ozzyaziz says:

    Given the overtly regal inspiration, it’s no surprise that Grossmith King’s Salute smells majestic and classic. Refined, expertly blended, employing sumptuous ingredients that elevate the structure- which it does, expertly. There are no opaque aspects of a patchouli/oakmoss, no over-sweetened elements or vanillin cloy nor excessive soapiness. It’s just an extraordinarily well realised Fougère – Grossmith are not so much reinventing the wheel, as they are buffing it to a high shine before dressing the wheel in the most sought-after tire that money can buy.

    Notes: bergamot, elemodor, blackcurrant, black pepper, lavender, lavandin, thyme, iris, cardamom, oakmoss, amber, cashmeran accord, musk, coumarin. This sounds like a majestic and regal fragrance. The ingredients all sound great.This is a house that is really classy.Thanks lot from the UK

  • Amaziz89 says:

    The opening of Grossmith King’s Salute is soothing with its focus on lavender tones and peppery edging. The touchstones of the grail Fougère previously mentioned are all present (bergamot, lavender, a slab of coumarin and oakmoss) and they make themselves felt immediately with the characteristically classic accord conjuring tweed notions of antique wood, cluttered mahogany sideboards, and overtly sartorial grandfathers. But it’s the accomplished blending and the additional olfactive shading that really elevates King’s Salute.

    Adding the astringent herbal nuances of thyme seems to turn the greener parts of the lavender a little spikier, better fusing the lauded purple flower’s power with the damp and woody tendrils of the oakmoss. In addition, the quiet luxury of the iris enriches everything. In particular it adds width to the footprint of the coumarin, tinting it and elaborating its sweet, almond-ish textures before the oakmoss and those familiar modern exalting musks and amber molecules ground it all to the skin. A beautiful description by Oli really intrigued by the notes and nuances to create this particular blend. Thanks a million from the UK

  • Anna says:

    I have a lot of admiration for the house of Grossmith. The quality of their fragrances is exceptional! I love fougeres and a fougere done by Grossmith must be truly fantastic – as described by Oli – ‘majestic and classic’. I’m based in the UK

  • ianbradleyandrews says:

    This sounds so refined! I’d love to smell like this. I’ve never smelled anything by this brand but the review makes this sound so rich. I’d love to win and live in Indiana.

  • Cedric says:

    Cool review! I didn’t know Grossmith was such an old brand. The King’s Salute sounds nice – I like fougères and this one seems fancy but not over-the-top. The thyme and iris mixed with the usual fougère stuff is interesting. Kinda want to try it now to see how it smells on me. I’m in Washington state, USA.

  • Arron_Q says:

    It has been relatively recently that I have begun to fall in love with the classic fragrance styles (with many thanks to Darren Alan and Manuel Cross), and the fougere is one that I still need to explore a bit more. I like the fresh and bracing nature of the ones I have tried so far. I have been a long fan of lavender so I am excited to see it featured prominently in this one. I’m also quite fond of thyme and am curious how it will play with the lavender. Oli said it serves to tie the lavender to the oakmoss, and I can picture that. I only hope it also lends a bit of its astringency. I know that my not sound palatable to some, but I love that particular facet of thyme. Anyway, I’m intrigued by this one and would love to give it a shot. Best of luck to all, I live in NC, USA.

  • Donna S says:

    The regal aspect gets my attention. Always looking for those special fragrances. I like the ones as well. I can picture the coronation and all the lovely guests! Is that crystal glasses roasting that I hear? I’m in US. Thank you for opportunity.

  • rmsssss says:

    Oli really made this perfume sound so interesting. I love that there is iris and lavender, and that it is not excessively sweet or soapy. It sounds like a really nice take on a classic! I would love the opportunity to try it. I’m in MN, USA.

  • mleenstra says:

    Yes I think Oli hits the nail on the head! This may not be an innovative Fougere but nor is it meant to be. I’ve only smelled this a while ago in Les Senteurs London and thought it was excellent. A fougere that can be easily worn by any gender and definitely smells classic but has a freshness that prevents it from becoming old fashioned. Really impressed by how this House has been revived in such a classy and sensitive way. Marit UK

  • David Furman says:

    I see this being very alluring and an excellent wear. This is allegedly meant to be a fougere but it seems more like a chypre. I’m somewhat new to that designation so plz forgive me if I’m wrong. I’m a sucker for iris and it’s perfect as a middle note in fragrances but I’d love to see how that plays out overall. That opening blast with bergamot, black pepper, and lavender probably comes off loud and fresh. This is truly a royal desire and a few steps above your entry level niche. From Jacksonville NC.

  • Teresa C says:

    I rather love that it is in honor of King Charles, ADORE That the same family whose name is on the label is still running the business, which is so rare these days in perfumery, and the balance of the blend sounds perfect. I love a good fougere, but so many of today’s scents are VERY heavy on the sweetness, which I don’t love, or are overtaken by the patchouli in the base. This sounds like a perfect balance of all the elements. I live in the US.

  • FragranceIsMe says:

    Thank you Oli for an in-depth review of Grossmith London, King’s Salute. I appreciate leaning about the history of this house. The fragrance truly sounds regal in nature with what appears a perfection of notes in this creation.
    USA

  • Steve A says:

    Interest sparked by learning this house is being run by Grosssmith’s of the 5th and 6th generation. US

  • Froaderick says:

    Not reinventing the wheel, but buffing it to a high shine. That seems a perfect summary of this regal offering! Oli’s ability to set the scene of this fragrance is impeccable, and I appreciate the nod to its origins as well. This doesn’t need to shout or make a fuss to be noticed. Refined restraint is the calling card here, and this is one element of the past I’d to see brought back. Cheers from Ohio, USA! 🙂

  • Annika says:

    A well done fougere is a thing of beauty. It’s refreshing to see one done in the classic style and not ‘with a twist’. The key in Grossmith King’s Salute seems to be the expert blending and top-notch ingredients. Would love to experience it! MD, USA

  • mmerline says:

    Thanks for the interesting history lesson about the Grossmith brand and Houbigant’s Fougère Royale. This comment about how the current Grossmith brand’s vintage-minded fragrances wear stood out: “And in the house’s style Grossmith King’s Salute doesn’t blast out of the atomiser in the way many modern fragrances do, as the brand makes their fragrances work in a different way. Their scents unfurl over time, shifting and repositioning themselves to reveal new layers and depths on skin.” And King’s Salute sounds wonderful. The way various herbs are used here to texture the lavender is deft and I’m intrigued by the luxurious iris material. Surely a terrific classical fougère.

    I’m in the USA.

  • Awtz27 says:

    What interest me about Oli review were that its a classic masculine scent that has been modernize, and the fragrance’s scent profile. Bergamot, lavender, coumarin, and oakmoss were interesting combinations in my opinion. Im from California USA

  • rdy3439 says:

    Sounds like a great house and I appreciate their scents “unfurl over time”. I can tell this is a beautiful scent and one I would love to have. Oakmoss, coumarin, lavender and iris. It sounds quite lovely. In Dallas, TX.

  • deeshla says:

    I was I intrigued by the history of this fragrance and the Grossmith family themselves. Sounds classic, refined and fresh.
    I’m in the U.S.

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thanks for the nice writeup Oli!

    It was good to read about this house, it’s history and its commitment to the old style of perfumery.

    Cheers from WI, USA