ÇaFleureBon Behind The Bottle: Matthew Zink of Charlie by Matthew Zink, Carlos Huber and Yann Vasnier + by Matthew Zink Giveaway

By Matthew Zink first fragrance from Matthew Zink

by Matthew Zink courtesy of the brand

Smoke is like the memory of a fire.

As soon as a ribbon of smoke appears it begins to fade.

Thinning and dissolving as quickly as it begins.

Until it’s gone.

What was bright and hot and burning, is now a memory.

A fragrance that lingers.

A soft haunt.

The ghost of a flame that once wasMatthew Zink, January 9, 2024

By Matthew Zink composed by Yann Vasnier

by Matthew Zink promotional materials, courtesy of the brand

When I heard whispers of a sensational new perfume from industry insiders and fragrance friends alike, I quickly ordered a sample of an extraordinary collaboration among designer Matthew Zink, fragrance developer and Fragrance Foundation Award Winner 2024 Carlos Huber of Arquiste, and Givaudan senior perfumer Yann Vasnier.   The Eau de Parfum by Matthew Zink is the first fragrance from the brand Charlie by Matthew Zink. ÇaFleureBon Editor-in-Chief Michelyn Camen put me in touch with the composers. Thank you Matthew, Carlos and Yann for sharing your creative process with our readers- Rachel K. Ng, Editor

Rachel K. Ng: Can you to share a bit about your process for conceiving and creating “by Matthew Zink”?

Matthew Zink: Carlos and I met in New York 13 years ago when I created Charlie by Matthew Zink and he created Arquiste. After 5 years as Design Director of Victoria’s Secret Swimwear, I launched Charlie in 2010 with my partner Raquel as a luxury swimwear brand that celebrated the joyful sensuality of the late 1970’s and early 1980’s.  Today, Charlie by Matthew Zink is proud to have become an international cult brand with a fabulously loyal following that has expanded into additional Italian produced menswear categories including our signature swimwear, underwear, clothing, fitness, accessories, and now fragrance and home. Carlos and I remained in contact as time passed and I have certainly enjoyed seeing Carlos’ talent and success over the years. The creation of the fragrance was to be a very personal project for me and I immediately reached out to Carlos. I was thrilled when he agreed to work on the project. He quickly suggested his colleague and Senior perfumer Yann Vasnier of Givaudan Paris.  With Carlos as the fragrance designer and Yann as the perfumer, we were destined to experience magic.

Carlos Huber of Arquiste

Fragrance Developer and Scent Designer Carlos Huber of Arquiste via Carlos Huber

Carlos Huber: When Matthew came to me with the idea to create a signature scent, we discussed his brand, his sources of inspiration and his customers at length. Charlie by Matthew Zink has built an extremely loyal audience for many, many years, and I’ve always admired how honest and impactful his branding has been. It’s a celebration of sexiness and confidence. Matthew and I had known each other for over 10 years and helping him calibrate his vision in olfactive terms was an honor. : He described as inspiration, a day in the life of a Charlie man…his morning routine, the intimacy with his partner, his confident sensuality. I thought Yann [Vasnier] was a perfect choice as perfumer: he’s a master of quietly intriguing suede notes, sexy musks, smoky facets and contrasting accords.

By Matthew Zink eau de parfum

by Matthew Zink  Eau de Parfum inspiration courtesy of the brand

Matthew Zink: When we began the process, I sent Yann and Carlos a brief about a passionate encounter between two individuals.  I gave almost no scent direction.  I wanted you to feel the fragrance, not smell it.  The last few lines of the brief I provided was: “phone. keys. watch. wallet. long kiss. door locks. he buries his face in your pillow. intoxicated by what lingers.”

Carlos Huber: I translated Matthew’s ideas around confidence, attraction and sex into fragrance notes, and spoke to Yann about working around the themes of skin, smoke, fire, sweat and spices. He presented a number of impressive sketches, but this one stood out. From then on, the evaluation and refining process was straightforward. Matthew and I traveled to Paris to meet with Yann and we would try different modifications on different days to assess the best one. The smokiest always won. The Mystikal™ and cumin nitrile notes were stand outs…they created something so real and direct. I loved its power and direct message…this was a smoky scent unlike anything I had tried or worked on. it was unique and sooooo confident. From then on, I would wear this fragrance every time I went out, and every -single -time, everyone near me commented on how much they loved it. People kept asking where they could find it. I knew we had something special.

Senior Perfumer Yann Vasnier of Givaudan

Givaudan Senior Perfumer Yann Vasnier, courtesy of the perfumer

Yann Vasnier: When Carlos asked me to collaborate with him again, I obviously said yes without question. It is always such a pleasure to work on his highly researched themes and sophisticated concepts. And this time did not disappoint! By Matthew Zink is a very different tale and very unique brand and approach in our perfume industry. I loved from the start working with such a sexy erotic brand and very interesting founder Matthew, definitely more than meet the eyes. I was immediately very inspired for names and concepts and olfactive directions. My perfumer trial root Braises/Burning Embers was perfectly fitting – burning literally and conceptually – around a very high dosage of pyrogenated notes. A key ingredient was this very little used molecule called cumin nitrile bringing this super high-octane masculinity edgy sweaty sexiness… perfectly hairy! Such a pleasure to work with Matthew and Carlos.

Matthew Zink: When I experienced Yann’s “Burning Embers” for the first time, it was very similar to falling in love. It was strong, and it almost scared me. That sense that your mind and heart are telling you to run, but it’s unclear if you should run away or toward.   However, I was instinctually drawn back to breathe it in again and again.  It did not smell like perfume to me.  It felt like a poem, or a first glance.  Like a memory that you had buried and now returned with all its vividness and power.  I was in love.

Matthew Zink: The fragrance has become a sort of invisible ribbon of smoke that guides my conscious and also always seems to carry at least a whisper from of a great love of mine. After the launch, I began to paint again, to draw again, to write.   began to return to art in a very private way again.

Yann and I have never talked privately about his process in creating by Matthew Zink, but I feel the depth and confidence of this very unique fragrance speaks volumes of his artistry, and the magic of allowing a painter to paint. These two gentlemen somehow thoughtfully and lovingly interpreted my desire to perfection.  The process was one of the most inspiring of my career.  And with my name on the bottle, I could not be prouder.

The fragrance can be purchased through the Charlie by Matthew Zink website or through the Arquiste website.

Notes: cade oil, styrax pyrogene, roasted sesame extract, Mystikal™, olibanum, cumin nitrile, fir balsam, benzoin, vanilla absolute and sylkolide

Bottle my own; I  wear by Charlie Zink as does my husband.

~ Rachel K. Ng, Editor

All Photos are courtesy of Matthew Zink except where credited otherwise and cannot be reproduced without permission.

by Matthew zink

courtesy of the brand

Thanks to the generosity of Matthew Zink we have a draw for a 100 ml bottle of by Matthew Zink for continental USA ONLY for one registered reader. You must register here. To be eligible please leave a comment on what you enjoyed about Rachel’s Behind the Bottle with the creators. Draw closes 7/2/204

Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebonofficial @rachel.k.ng @charliebymz @thematthewzink @yann_vasnier @arquistecarlos @arquiste

This is our Privacy and Draw Rules Policy

LIKE CaFleureBon Behind the Bottle on Facebook and your comment will also count twice. Please leave that in your comment.

We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like ÇaFleureBon and use our blog feed… or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *


19 comments

  • David Furman says:

    Dark, resinous, and mysterious. This looks good to me. When described as a poem rather than a perfume I thought that meant a lot about it composition and overall impressions. The notes seem somewhat dark and rich which I like a lot. Never heard of the composer or creation but glad to have now. I would love to embrace this and explore the journey within. From Jacksonville, NC

  • Ramses Perez says:

    It takes a special kind of talent to just create a perfumer based on a few words relayed to them. Not only that, but to take it to such a sensual, carnal and seductive facet it’s truly a masterpiece. The entire marketing of the fragrance revolves around a sexy and seductive encounter and I’m really enjoying what I read. Based on the reactions of people this one will be very popular and I can see Matthew and Carlos collaborating again very soon along with Yann. The notes of this perfume read very masculine to me but if Rachel can pull it off so can anyone that desires to. Cheers from USA.

  • AromaDulce73 says:

    I’m a big fan of smokey fragrances. I like how Matthew said that “It did not smell like perfume to me. It felt like a poem, or a first glance”. This sounds like a real head turner and stand out fragrance, right up my alley.

    Los Angeles Ca. USA

  • I’m not sure I’ve ever been as intrigued and enthralled in the story behind a fragrance’s creation. The brief was hilarious and oh so naughty. I love it! By Matthew Zink sounds like an unapologetically sexy scent that is raw and unbridled (or, perhaps bridled – I don’t kink shame). I love dark and deep resins, especially in combination with cade. I just know this is a beast of a fragrance in the best way possible. I’m very interested to see what this cumin nitrile is all about. I have loved just about everything Arquiste has had a hand in, and am also a fan of Vasnier’s work, so I am confident this will be expertly crafted. Best of luck to all. I live in NC, USA.

  • Rachel’s “Behind the Bottle” interview with the creators of “by Matthew Zink” is a captivating read that offers a deep dive into the creative process behind this unique fragrance. What stands out is the profound connection between the creators—Matthew Zink, Carlos Huber, and Yann Vasnier—and their shared passion for translating intimate moments and emotions into scent. Matthew’s poetic vision, combined with Carlos’s olfactive translation and Yann’s innovative perfumery, culminates in a fragrance that feels more like a sensory memory than a mere perfume.

    The detailed recounting of their collaborative journey, the inspiration behind the scent, and the personal anecdotes make this article not only informative but also deeply engaging. The fragrance itself is described as a passionate encounter captured in scent, featuring notes of cade oil, styrax pyrogene, roasted sesame extract, Mystika, olibanum, cumin nitrile, fir balsam, benzoin, vanilla absolute, and sylkolide. These elements blend to create a smoky, sensual, and confident fragrance that evokes the intimacy and allure of a Charlie man’s day.

    Matthew Zink’s “by Matthew Zink” is not just a fragrance; it’s a soft haunt, a lingering memory of a fire that once burned bright. This scent, with its smoky and spicy facets, feels like a poem or a vivid memory, making it a unique and powerful addition to the world of perfumery.

    I also appreciate the opportunity to participate in the giveaway, adding an interactive and exciting element for the readers. Well done, Rachel, for bringing this beautiful story to life!

  • ScentofAbsinthe says:

    Hi, I’m from USA, and was intrigued by the description of the eroticism captured by this fragrance.

    I’ve been interested in scents that prompt aphrodisiac reactions, and the description of cumin nitrile in this is absolutely riveting.

    I misspelled çaefleurebon when I would have won the drawing for the 15mL all natural perfume and am eager to have another chance at a win. As an avid new perfumier, I would be so excited to win this.

    -Jared Overbeck.

    (I liked CaFleureBon Behind The Bottle on Facebook, so my comment counts twice.)

    Thanks so much!

  • Brad Woolslayer says:

    I love the theme of skin, smoke, fire, smoke, and spices. It’s nice that I love that people love the fragrance and ask where they can buy it. I’d love to own a bottle. I live in Maryland USA.

  • Arquiste and Yann Vasnier on one fragrance. Amazing. “The fragrance has become one a sort of invisible ribbon that guides my conciusness, and always seems to carry at least a whisper from a great love of mine.” Inspiring words from Matthew Zink

  • Kelly Atwoood says:

    I honestly don’t think I’ve been more excited about a single release this year than this one! Arquiste is hands down my favorite house, thanks to Carlos Huber’s heart, soul and creativity and Yann Vasnier has been my favorite perfumer since the beginning of my fragrance journey! Plus, the story behind this fragrance and what it represents….I have goosebumps! I would LOVE to be entered into the giveaway!!

  • The ad copy for by Matthew Zink is very evocative. I love the imagery of the ribbon of smoke, thinning and dissolving, left by the ghost of a flame. It’s somewhat melancholy but I can see how it relates to the dark, smoky and resinous notes of the styrax, fir balsam and benzoin. I’m a big fan of Carlos Hubert’s oeuvre. MD, USA.

  • chrisskins says:

    If this doesn’t get me a man, I give up. Yes, cumin can be a bit scary but this has cumin nitile – it sounds like it’s a better friend than straight cumin. Love the smoke molecule. And if there inclusion of the roasted sesame extract didn’t push this into another sphere, don’t know. Fab sounding. Rachel has written a review that creates so much longing to try this. I live in NY.

  • With the following quote I could not want another scent more “ When I experienced Yann’s “Burning Embers” for the first time, it was very similar to falling in love. It was strong, and it almost scared me. That sense that your mind and heart are telling you to run, but it’s unclear if you should run away or toward. However, I was instinctually drawn back to breathe it in again and again. It did not smell like perfume to me. It felt like a poem, or a first glance. Like a memory that you had buried and now returned with all its vividness and power. I was in love.” in maryland

  • Oof nothing as sexy as a musk perfume. In fact many a time I eagerly awaited the dry down just to get to that musk! Will it lean masc or lean femme? Lean animale or lean salty? Ambrette warm or Iris touched cold? What spice will it accentuate? What wood will it round out? Will olibanum give it a smokiness or maybe an indolic narcisse absolue joins forces to knock my socks clear off. So much a musk can do! I’m convinced a house could simply just be a series of musk blends if done right. I can’t even pick favorites as there is a musk for all occasions. Truly the most important note we have for perfumery.
    I’ve heard such great things about this one and here it is?!! Will the Musk Goddex bless me with a winning bottle? Let me pray over my Koublai Khan and Ravageur, my Poupre d’Automne and Inner Glow (w/a dose of vintage Afghani Muskroot)…. I would be so grateful to win!!! Thank you for your generosity, I am located in US.

  • Part 2 I forgot to mention I liked the Facebook Behind the Bottle and have been a long time follower of Cafleurebon et al there, Simone Samba. Please count me in twice!

  • Rachel’s interview gave me the a goo impression about the perfume, and what I enjoyed about it is the scent profile.Dark, and mysterious? The sounds like around my alley of fragrances. And the Burning Ember’s references sounds intriguing as well. Im from California USA

  • Sherin Thomas says:

    Amazing review ! I’m a big fan of smokey fragrances. I like how Matthew said that “It did not smell like perfume to me. It felt like a poem, or a first glance”. This sounds like a real head turner and stand out fragrance, right up my alley . From PA,USA

  • Interesting interview. While Huber interpreted the sensual theme with bold aspects like the smell of smoke and skin, it doesn’t sound like it veers too far into carnal, and remains very wearable. That “edgy sweaty sexiness” can be challenging to balance. It sounds particularly well suited for a date night.

    I’m in the USA. I like CaFleureBon Behind the Bottle on Facebook. Thanks for the giveway.

  • foreverscents says:

    This sounds like a very hot, sweaty, and burning fragrance. I enjoyed reading the conversation between the three gentleman. I liked what Matthew Zinc said about the Burning Embers prototype: “It was strong and it almost scared me. That sense that your mind and heart are telling you to run, but it’s unclear if you should run away or toward.” I am all for the sweaty cumin note in this fragrance.
    I follow the Behind the Bottle Facebook page.
    I live in the USA.

  • Sherin Thomas says:

    Lovely review! I’m a big fan of smokey fragrances. I like how Matthew said that “It did not smell like perfume to me. It felt like a poem, or a first glance”. This sounds like a real head turner and stand out fragrance, right up my alley.

    PA,USA