Xerjoff Tempest photo by Michael Devine©
“And, like the baseless fabric of this vision,
The cloud-capp’d towers, the gorgeous palaces,
The solemn temples, the great globe itself,
Yea, all which it inherit, shall dissolve
And, like this insubstantial pageant faded,
Leave not a rack behind. We are such stuff
As dreams are made on, and our little life
Is rounded with a sleep.” ― William Shakespeare, The Tempest
Photo: Xerjoff Tempest, Kemi courtesy of Xerjoff
In Shakespeare’s The Tempest, the character of Prospero uses the interwoven powers of magic and alchemy to conjure a storm, both real and symbolic. Alchemy, a predecessor to chemistry (and in turn, perfumery) serves as the inspiration to Xerjoff’s Kemi collection. According to the brand, “Kemi straddles the line between the tangible and the intangible, the earthly and the ethereal, the real and the magical.” With Xerjoff’s Empiryan in my Top Ten Fragrances of 2023, the others in the collection piqued my interest. Thanks to the team at Twisted Lily, I was graciously afforded the opportunity to further explore Kemi’s alchemy, starting with Tempest, inspired by the Shakespearean play of the same name.
According to Xerjoff, Kemi is a “collection of unique perfumes created from pure natural raw elements through cryptic distillation techniques.” The sub-line was first introduced in 2014 with a distinct bottle design which stood alone from the standard Xerjoff aesthetic. In 2023, the line was reintroduced and repackaged as the “K Collection” within the Xerjoff Universe, congruent to the brand’s standard presentation, which is anything but standard. Anyone who’s opened a Xerjoff fragrance knows the pageantry of their box-within-a-box-within-a-box presentation is almost a Shakespearean journey unto itself.
Unlike the chaotic opening scene of the play, with a ship sinking amid the crash of thunder and lightning, Xerjoff Tempest opens with pure sunshine. Xerjoff’s signature blend of bergamot, lemon, and orange is invigorating, energetic and optimistic. Notes of Bulgarian lavender introduce a calming and sophisticated dimension to the composition, balancing the initial citrusy burst with a staying tranquility. The clever use of ginger furthers the energetic kick while adding a touch of spice. The addition of petitgrain introduces the first element of greenness, later bolstered by Haitian vetiver in the mid.
via unsplash
The heart of Xerjoff Tempest can be considered Act II of the olfactive narrative as the energetic and sunny brightness of the opening is countered by a balsamic shadow; we have entered the majestic forests of Prospero’s Island. Atlas Cedar, bold and commanding, takes center stage. As Shakespeare has shown, it’s almost impossible to tell a story without conflict, but as a fragrance, Tempest has no antagonist. Indian Jasmine Sambac and Bulgarian rose provide a softness to the cedar which enhances rather than contrasts. The floral notes may have been inspired by the enchanted flora and fauna of Prospero’s Island and the intoxicating magic that pervades the landscape.
Prospero commanding Ariel John Massey Wright
Act III, which introduces patchouli from Singapore, Australian sandalwood, musk, amber and oud from Loas, conjures a sense of the exotic amid the warmth of the familiar. At first spray, I thought Tempest would be an invigorating spring/summer tonic, but as the composition unfolded, it became clear that it’s an all-weather, all-occasion troubadour. Like a Shakespeare play, there’s a complexity to Xerjoff Tempest that benefits from multiple wearings, each revealing a new facet. While elements are instantly pleasing—like the sound of iambic pentameter—the breadth of the context becomes clearer through examination and understanding. With each wearing (itself a daylong journey) I grew more familiar with the characters, or rather, accords, increasing my appreciation for this gorgeous work of olfactive alchemy.
Notes per Xerjoff: Top Notes: Bergamot Reggio Calabria, Lemon, Brazilian Orange, Petitgrain from Paraguay, Bulgarian Lavender, Elemi, Ginger; Heart Notes: Cedar From Atlas, Cypriol From India, Gurjum Balsam From Malaysia, Amberwood, Indian Jasmine Sambac, Bulgarian Rose; Base Notes: Patchouli From Singapore, Australian Sandalwood, Haitian Vetiver, Musk, Amber, Oud Buaya From Laos
Disclosure: Based on a bottle of Tempest sent to the author for review from Twisted Lily. Check out all of Xerjoff’s offerings at Twisted Lily here.
—Michael Devine, Senior Contributor
Xerjoff Tempest presentation, courtesy of Xerjoff
Thanks to the generosity of Twisted Lily we have a 50 ml bottle tester of Xerjoff Tempest one registered reader in the contiguous U.S. only. To be eligible, please leave a comment indicating what intrigues you about Xerjoff Tempest and note if you live in the contiguous U.S. Draw closes 1/11//2024.
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