Les Exclusifs de Chanel No.18 image from chanel.com
We at ÇaFleureBon have reviewed many Chanel fragrances – and yet, until now – no one has touched upon Les Exclusifs de Chanel No.18. Why do you think that is?
collage Chanel no.18 via chanel.com
Chanel No.18 was composed in 2016 by maître parfumeur Jacques Polge; it is named for 18 Place Vendôme, across the street from The Ritz, where Mme. Chanel lived for many years – and home to Chanel’s current Fine Jewelry boutique. Along with several other fragrances known as Les Exclusifs – and unleashed upon an audience which didn’t quite know what to do with it. Each of the other fragrances was well-received: a tender vernal iris, the buoyant verdancy of a country getaway, a shimmering lipstick violet/rose, classic chypre and a neo-chypre, resinous patchouli opulence, the smokiest vetiver, delirious yet decorous florals, the leathery lovechild of Cuir de Russie and Shalimar, lavender with two visages. And that includes all the old classics revived which no true Chanel aficionado would do without: No.19, Bois des Îles, No. 22, and even an Eau de Cologne.
Chanel perfumes courtesy of the brand
Chanel No.18 was clearly the odd man out: several perfume bloggers proclaimed that “it smells like dill pickles. I just can’t get past that pickle note.” Peculiar as that may seem, there were a great many who felt similarly; others complained of being anosmic to its celebrated abundance of very costly ambrette; still more felt that No.18 resembled much ado about nothing – an emperor who was naked. And so it languished on the shelves, partly because it was misunderstood – and likely because Les Exclusifs have always been pricey, and most of us don’t want to take a chance on an expensive perfume we’re not sure we really like – especially an ephemeral one. And truth be told, those entrusted with selling it didn’t seem to care much for it, either – even in their selfsame boutiques.
Musk Mallow also known as ambrette via Freepik
Oh, I was seduced right away; I will man up to that. I couldn’t afford to buy it, so I had to satisfy my greedy nose by stopping by the Chanel corner in Saks Fifth Avenue on a regular basis, where I knew it lay in wait for me. I sniffed it stealthily – while the sales folk tried to lure me towards the likes of Coromandel or Bois des Îles (both of which I own and love). They weren’t successful. No.18’s oddly pétillant eau-de-vie quality had magnetized me. It smelt crystalline, pure, divinely nuanced and highly sophisticated. I lusted after it. I’m not too proud to say so.
Tilda Swinton in Only Lovers Left Alive screen shot from 2013 film IMDb
Chanel No.18 shares a certain aplomb which many have noted amongst that celebrated house’s fragrances: it is often remarked that they tend to keep one at arm’s length – even the warmer ones. “Come close, but not too close”, they seem to say. It’s as if they embody Catherine Deneuve or Tilda Swinton: eerily beautiful and somewhat remote. Admittedly, there are several perfumes which are well-known crowd pleasers and more appealing to the general public, but even these feel more aloof than, say – other florals and gourmands. Many classic Guerlains feel far more impassioned than they, even the ‘cooler’ Guerlains. There is no reason why one may not admire both houses – but it is revealing to contrast them.
Poire Williams via wikipedia
No.18 opens with a silvery blast of pear brandy (think Poire Williams) enwreathed in a rooty iris which smells as if it came from concrete. Ambrette is prominent from the get-go – that vegetal animalic which is both floral and delicately horsey, imparting the refined glamour of the equestrian. Ambrette itself may present a challenge to those who are musk-anosmic – in a manner similar to Annick Goutal Musc Nomade (which my husband cannot detect no matter how much I slather on). One experiences brief moments of berry, an exquisite fresh rose (which smells like rose de Mai to my nose), and the herbal/floral lilt of scented geranium. I smell sandalwood in the base, so smooth, buttery yet subtle. Fleeting as No.18 may be (and it is), it is a masterwork: ethereal, elegant and compellingly evanescent. In summer months it is simply marvelous when stored in a very cool place; application to the skin provides instant refreshment and heightening of the senses. There is a grappa-like tenor to the fragrance which is extremely appealing.
As an older individual, my skin has become much drier – so No.18 does not keep me conscious company for very long – but if I become warm it releases itself anew, to my delight. On oiler skins (such as my husband’s), it is a wonder; he pulls every bit of orris and sandalwood available and the scent endures far longer; it’s delicious and seductive. No.18 is soigné in the very finest Chanel tradition.
Due to expense, it isn’t reasonable to assume that everyone may afford a bottle, even the smallest – but I would highly recommend that you sample No.18 as part of your olfactory education. You may find that it speaks eloquently; and it certainly doesn’t resemble any other fragrance on the market.
Notes: ambrette seed, (? aldehydes), iris, rose, geranium, floral notes, pear, fruits, sandalwood
Flacon from my own collection. My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor
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