Darren Alan Perfumes Chypre No. 1 (Darren Alan) + Neo-Vintage Giveaway

 Darren Alan Perfumes Chypre No. 1

Darren Alan Perfumes Chypre No. 1 bottle, Photo by Rachel K. Ng

 In a time of so much unease and disquiet, there can be an exquisite poise and reprieve found in the classical. Darren Alan’s Chypre No. 1 is exactly that perfect call to proportion, clarity of structure, and appeal to the intellect, as much as the senses. Created in 1998, Chypre No. 1 is a study in the genre of the “Chypre”. It is handmade from natural tinctured materials by the perfumer along with industry-sourced ingredients and essences.

Darren Alan of Darren Alan Perfumes

Darren Alan perfumer courtesy of the brand

Darren Alan is an American artisanal perfumer who has made a 7-year deep study of perfumery’s genres. Darren describes his Ne- Vintage style as a kind of search: “if I were living and creating fragrances back in the Golden Age of Perfumery, what would my fragrances have smelled like back then?” Indeed, his fragrances express the discipline and materials of the classics in an exuberant and vital form relevant today. When I want to know what my cherished bottles of vintage perfume might have smelled like in their prime, I often look to Darren Alan’s creations for an idea of that elite craftsmanship and disciplined production. Darren also leverages contemporary knowledge and know-how, “it’s not just a matter of recreating fragrances in a vintage style, but also bringing my modern experience to the formula as well. This process gives my fragrances a vintage throwback while still feeling relevant to the modern nose.”

chypre comes from Cyprus

Island of Cyprus, unsplash

The Chypre is perfumery’s most classical structure, much like the building blocks of Bach’s chorales or Mozart’s melodies are in music. It opens with a fresh citrus note or accord followed by the floral pairing of rose and jasmine. Oakmoss brings a mossy and woody facet to the fragrance while patchouli adds a camphoraceous aspect. Finally, some kind of musk (natural or synthetic) is used for its sweet, powdery, and animalic dimensions. The chypre classification is named after the island of Cyprus, known for making gloves scented with oakmoss as far back as 1588. Until the genre-defining release of Francois Coty’s Chypre in 1917, aristocratic fragrances were crafted in the chypre model exclusively for the elite (examples include Cyprus by Lubin in 1898 and Eau de Chypre by Guerlain in 1850).

 

art nouveau

Roses under the Tree by Gustave Klimt via wiki art

Darren Alan Perfumes Chypre No. 1 opens with an assured citrus accord of bergamot, Amalfi lemon, orange, and orange blossom absolute. There are no overexuberant aldehydes at the top, nor are there any especially astringent green notes, only a perfectly polished symmetry. Rose de mai absolute and jasmine grandiflora absolute unfold next. Darren’s latest batch of Chypre No. 1 features a handmade rose de mai (rose centifolia) absolute that he extracted himself. Carnation and ylang fold in with the rose and jasmine to create a beautifully layered tonal harmony in the heart. Herbaceous Clary sage and artemisia begin the subtle arch of camphoraceous undertone that meets so effortlessly with patchouli in the base. Nutmeg and clove carry the sweetness and spice of ylang and carnation into the dry down, another elegant olfactive bridge in the refined structure of Darren Alan Perfumes Chypre No. 1.

Labdanum, IFRA compliant low-atranol oakmoss and patchouli lay the foundation of Darren Alan Perfumes Chypre No. 1. When Darren first began making Chypre No. 1 in 1998, he used a real Siberian deer musk tincture in order to work with accurate period materials; however, he has since changed to a deer musk molecular recreation using a GCMS analysis of his original tincture. An important aspect of artistic judgment is understanding our contemporary ethical standards for animal treatment as well as modern takes on animalic notes. Civet absolute, a white ambergris tincture that Darren makes himself, and sandalwood add depth to the rich and luxurious base that is not overly animalic, even office appropriate. Frankincense and orris butter bring touches of luxury. A handmade tincture of vanilla bean and tonka add just the right amount of structural warmth. Darren Alan Perfumes Chypre No. 1 is beautiful neo-vintage modern chypre that one can(and should) wear with abandon!

Notes: Bergamot, Amalfi Lemon, Orange, Orange Blossom Absolute, Rose de Mai Absolute, Jasmine Grandiflorum Absolute, Carnation Absolute, Ylang-Ylang, Spices, Clary sage ,Herbs, Labdanum Absolute, Oakmoss Absolute, Deer Musk Accord, Clove, Ylang,  Nutmeg, Civet accord, White Ambergris, Sandalwood (S. album), Patchouli, Incense Resins, Vanilla, Orris Butter

Bottle my own, opinions my own.

~ Rachel K. Ng, Senior Contributor

Darren Alan Perfumes Chypr

Darren Alan Perfumes Chypre No. 1 bottle, courtesy of the brand

Thanks to Darren Alan we have a 50 ml bottle of Chypre No. 1 for a registered ÇaFleureBon reader USA ONLY, (if you are not sure if you are registered click here – you must register on our site or your entry will be invalid). To be eligible please leave a quality comment on this site with what strikes you about Chypre No. 1 and where you live. Draw Closes June 1, 2023

Senior Contributor’s note: Chypre No. 1 was was recently reformulated and to my nose it is even better.

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27 comments

  • FragranceIsMe says:

    I am a fan of Darren Alan Perfumes. I personally find his creations unique and of the highest quality. Some of my favorites from his offerings are Sweet Repose (an addictive violet/orris/amber), After The Rain (green, earthy, with a touch of sweet sunshine), and Devil’s Share (wonderful blend of tobacco, vanilla, bourbon, and woody accords).
    Chypre No 1 is such a complex creation with much love, care, and attention to all facets in the creation of the fragrance…a true labor of love by Darren. This is a fragrance that I look forward to adding to my collection.
    Pennsylvania, USA

  • rachel says:

    Rachel, what a fantastically detailed and educational review♥️!!! I love that Daren is giving us an opportunity to smell what the classics were like without the gamble of hunting for vintages which may be spoiled or changed! I’m also intrigued that he creates his own tinctures. I’m a sucker for a chypre and am glad to hear this isn’t strongly green or aldehydic. Also, thank you for including link with how to purchase directly from these artisanal houses as I know they need our support. Excited to try this. In Brooklyn USA

  • AromaDulce73 says:

    What strikes me about Chypre No. 1 is when he says that his fragrances are a vintage throwback while still feeling relevant to the modern nose.

    This seems like it would be a nice summer fragrance.

    Los Angeles, California

  • Germaine says:

    This article caught my eye because as I’ve gotten into fragrances more and more the last few years I really don’t have a classic style Chypre. Most my journey has been with modern fresh and aquatic scents while exploring some heavier accords that usually have something to do with tobacco, incense or oud (which can be very hard to wear in my climate).

    Phoenix AZ

  • castlemicro says:

    Hello from Florida and thanks to Rachel for the review! I love a perfume with vintage sensibilities, and it sounds like Chypre No. 1 really zones in on what can make the chypre a force to be reckoned with.

  • wormboy says:

    That was a wonderfully thorough review. I enjoyed reading the history of the chypre, I’d always thought Coty’s was the 1st. I had no idea about the earlier aristocratic versions. I have a small sample of Chypre No. 1 that I received in an order awhile back and you did a great job of breaking it down. I’m going to have to reread while smelling it. I do really love the sample though and would be overjoyed to add a bottle to my collection. I’d say my favorite I’ve tried so far from Darren is Fête de Noël. I live in Missouri, USA

  • Dubaiscents says:

    What a wonderful and educational post, Rachel! As a lover of vintage style scents, I can’t believe this is the first I’m learning Of Darren and his brand. Definitely need to check these out! Thank you! US

  • Arron_Q says:

    Darren is a modern master of neo-vintage. Chypre No. 1, Fetes de Noel, Hekate, Dorian’s Fougere, and his newest imited batch, Jonquil, are all but a few of his amazing creations. Discovering this house is what got me into vintage style scents, especially chypres. As Rachel mentioned, Chypre No. 1 has this camphrous touch to it that I cannot get enough of. It’s a bit animalic, but not too much so. The florals are beautiful and round, offering a soft bouquet that is perfectly unisex. For a long time, it was my favorite from his line. However, his Fetes de Noel from this past holiday season has proved to be it’s equal. I would be thrilled to win this as I only have around half of my 10ml of Chypre No. 1 left right now so I’ve been using it rather sparingly. I live in NC, USA.

  • John Michael Jones says:

    This sounds right up my alley! I love the note breakdown! Can’t wait to sample! I’m from Boston, Massachusetts!

  • chki says:

    Enjoyed learning that the fragrance is 25 years old. Things that stand the test of time is a good assurance on a lot of things for me. Rachel also listing ‘IFRA compliant low-atranol oakmoss’ as an ingredient intrigues me. Oakmoss is probably my favorite note in perfumery so using a real variant is exciting. Thank you for the opportunity, California US.

  • RonaldProkes17 says:

    I am a huge fan of Darren Alan, though I have tried only a small number of his creations. But his Bathory is one of the starkest and most gothic rose notes I have every tried and owned. He is master of the neo vintage genre. I find that his updates and interpretations on vintage perfumery often surpass many vintage masters. In this composition the jasmine note as well as the real dear musk sound absolutely heavenly and carnal. I would love to try this rich and luxurious scent as I know he truly makes special little creatures in the form of perfume. His perfumes always feel so vivid and alive.
    California, USA.

  • joshuabrian says:

    This sounds great. I don’t see too many new chypres being made. Will definitely be checking out the brand. Thanks for the opportunity. From USA.

  • Ken White says:

    I’m not familiar with this house, but the description here makes this chypre sound interesting. I definitely need to check this out! “it’s not just a matter of recreating fragrances in a vintage style, but also bringing my modern experience to the formula as well. This process gives my fragrances a vintage throwback while still feeling relevant to the modern nose.” New Jersey, USA

  • Torax says:

    Great review by Rachel here.
    I think that Darren Alan made a masterpiece in Chypre N1.
    The citrus opening, the vintage elements and the chypre accords as the main element is surely amazing. I also love that this is not an overly animalic fragrance and that you can even wear it in the office.
    USA here.

  • rmsssss says:

    Ever since I tried and loved Sacred Smoke, Darren Alan has been on my radar. I love that Chypre No. 1 is his modern take on a classic genre – I am so interested to smell his perspective! Plus the handmade rose de mai tincture sounds divine. I’m in MN, USA.

  • Trinity33 says:

    Fascinating review Rachel! I love old school chypres and IFRA regulations have posed some challenges for a perfumer who wants to reference the vintage masterpieces. Darren Alan appears to have done his homework researching ways to make his modern take on the chypre work. The care with which he sources and creates his notes and accords is impressive. In particular, I would love to experience his civet accord. It takes a deft hand to use a civet note properly. Love to win a bottle! MD, USA.

  • roxhas1cat says:

    I am impressed that Darren hand extracted the rose de mai. Wow, that shows a passion for his work. Vintage with a modern feel is what I enjoy. Love the artwork to accompany this article. I don’t own many chypres it’s more new to my nose. I’d love to win this. Thanks for the chance. USA.

  • dLin says:

    What stands out to me about Chypre No. 1 by Darren Alan Perfumes is its focus on the idea of vintage fragrances in the peak of their popularity. The overall fragrance has an incredible mix of notes, and it was fun to learn about the different species of rose, or in this case Rose de mai. Being used to more modern fragrances, the concept behind Chypre No. 1 really opened my eye to the idea of how the trends of fragrances shift over time, similar to other medians of popular culture.
    USA, TX.

  • TravisO says:

    Amazing, how do you come up with this classical beauty with that list of notes.

    Hand extracted rose. Using animal friendly notes as well. I hope Alan does well with this and his future fragrance’s

    Thanks form the USA

  • JohnHenry says:

    Thanks for the insightful article Rachel, Chypre style of perfumery is still mysterious to me, since i am still processing and understanding what this style is all about. I think i own a bottle of vintage perfume that is considered Chypre. I would love to win the bottle of Darren Alan Chypre No. 1 to compare them and further experience this style of perfume!
    I’m in the US.

  • Maestro says:

    Being an enthusiast of Natural Perfumes, I haven’t come across this particular brand before. However, Rachel’s captivating review of Chypre No.1 has piqued my interest, making it an intriguing fragrance worth exploring. I absolutely must give it a try! According to Rachel, the brand’s approach goes beyond merely replicating vintage scents; it incorporates a contemporary touch, resulting in fragrances that evoke nostalgia while remaining appealing to today’s discerning scent connoisseurs. I’m excited to experience this unique blend of vintage and modern aromas. Florida, USA.

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thank you for the wonderful review Rachel. I’m hearing about this perfumer for the first time and it was really interesting to read about their process. I’m a huge fan of perfumers who go all out to make their own tinctures and absolutes. Perusing the website, I was quite stunned to see a Hyancinth enfleurage, something that I didn’t know was possible.

    The construction of this chypre is quite fascinating. Kudos to the perfumer for being period aware and also being ethically responsible.

    I would love to try this fragrance out.

    Cheers from WI, USA

  • mmerline says:

    I always like reading about new chypres here on Cafleurebon, since I’m still learning about the family, and all the ways it can be iterated on without abandoning its fundamental structure. Rachel’s description of how chypres are designed is very useful, and I’ll be sharing it with others. Darren Alan Perfumes Chypre No. 1 sounds like a particularly good example of how floral notes are incorporated into the chypre structure; the GCMS-recreated Siberian deer musk is also notable. I’m also intrigued by a perfume that incorporates a range of animalic notes while still reading as office-friendly. Chypre No. 1 sounds lovely.

    I’m in the USA.

  • Michael Prince says:

    What interests me about Darren Alan Perfumes No. 1 is that it’s a Chypre style fragrance which is a category I truly enjoy. I’ve heard so many great things about Darren Alan’s creations. No. 1 uses a features a rose centrefolia/rose de mai which was handmade and extracted by Darren Alan himself. A Civet absolute, a white ambergris tincture that Darren also makes himself also sounds interesting. I would love to try this unique, creative, and modern chypre styled fragrance. I am from the USA.

  • Caliwas says:

    I am amazed by Darren Alan’s ability to create his own tinctures materials and his ethical standards for the treatment of animals.
    Neo-Vintage really strikes me because I adore and cherish a classical time, golden age if you will of the arts and crafts. For a perfumer to bring the vintage to a modern day appeal is an art in of itself. Thanks for the giveaway! Greetings from the USA.

  • foreverscents says:

    It’s wonderful to read that Darren Alan is making fragrances that hark back to the Golden Age of Perfumery. I am not very fond of hunting for vintage perfumes, so perfumers like Darren Alan, who practice their craft with such integrity and thoughtfulness, are important to me. The notes in Chypre No. 1 are in perfect harmony. All the notes sound rich and luxurious.
    I live in the USA.