Karl’s three independent perfumes: Sous Le Manteau Paris Vapeurs Diablotines, Eris Parfums Belle De Jour and Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakelite Mashup with UnSplash by Karl.
What truly makes a fragrance special and how does it drive deep into our consciousness whilst others merely skirt around periphery? This is a question I have asked myself many times. My opinion is that there are three qualities which can be attributed to such scents. One, they hold mystery. Two, they create intrigue. Three, they are not sold everywhere. Independent perfumes or artistic perfumes (since the word niche is thrown about too often these days) are private invitations into the exclusive non-commercial world of perfumery where scent is art. In this article I present to you three independent perfumes which ‘feel’ truly special. Each is independently owned, has a distinct signature, and all are created by independent master perfumers.
Sous Le Manteau Paris Vapeurs Diablotines by Karl (Sous Le Manteau is a US Fragrance Foundation Finalist 2022 and the UK Best Newcomer in 2020
Sous Le Manteau Vapeurs Diablotines (Nathalie Feisthauer) 2016: this fiery, sultry juxtaposes sparkling notes atop a sultry amber glaze. Launched in 2016 under the creative direction of Olivia Bransbourg the nose behind this elegant and addictive fragrance is none other than independent master perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer. The beauty of this fragrance is that it blends spices, sweet tones, and an underlying latex accord to create a unique olfactory experience. In fact, Sous Le Manteau Vapeurs Diablotines was my first encounter with a truly independent perfumes, non-commercial with a back story of long-lost love potions from the 19th century. Intrigued by the brand which is shrouded in mystery the concept of wearing a fragrance which keeps its secrets ‘under the cloak’ made me curious. The sleek and colourful presentation of a tactile red flacon and intriguing motif beckoned me to explore further. Vapeurs Diablotines is stealthy and goes about its business in a low-key but daring way. It coaxes you closer with its contradictory facets of cleanliness versus animalic nuances. The welcome is an unrepentant combination of bergamot, yellow mandarin, clove, and bay, with a tinge of incense to set the mind swirling with a heart of herbaceous geranium. The depth of the perfume is a seductive and tempting affair where sweet tones of tonka, styrax, labdanum and vanilla dance with earthy, leathery ones and whisps of animalics come creeping in. Notes: bergamot oil, yellow mandarin oil, coriander oil, clove oil, bay oil, incense oil, geranium oil, cedarwood, patchouli oil, vetiver oil, musk, vanilla absolute, benzoin resin, tonka bean absolute, opoponax resin, styrax resin, cistus, Castoreum Synth (Firmenich), Animalis (Synarome)
Image of Eris Parfums Belle De Jour was an Art and Olfaction Finalist 2017 in the Independent perfumes category/photo by Karl©
Eris Parfums Belle De Jour (Antoine Lie) 2016: Barbara Herman, Author Of Scent and Subversion, Yesterday’s Perfume Blog and Creative Director for Eris Parfums enlisted master perfumer Antoine Lie to compose Eris Parfums Belle De Jour. What most intrigued me about this scent was its contrasting elements and backstory. The idea of a scent to portray the conflicting aspects of personality, congenial stay-at-home spouse by day and high-class wild escort by night is deftly interpreted here as the themes of seemingly innocent florals clash with stealthy musk and animalics. The subversive nature of this perfume ensures that is not for the faint of heart. However, for those who love surprise and their perfumes with an edge then Belle De Jour most definitely hits the spot. The orange blossom, coriander, jasmine, seaweed combination is so out there it creates a tumult of slightly bitter florals and rubbery aspects fused with an aquatic salty thrill bedded with a creamy and sensation akin to Tracy Emin’s slightly dishevelled ‘My Bed’ where the post coital aftereffects of a lascivious night’s pleasure are on display. To bring such a scent to market is courageous and risky but Belle De Jour is both tender and powerful in equal measure and a contradiction which truly reflects modern life and the conflict between public and private personas. Notes: Moroccan Coriander, Madagascan Pink Pepper, Tunisian Orange Flower, Spanish Cistus Labdanum, Egyptian Jasmine, Indian Pimento Berry, Atlas Cedarwood, Musk (synthetic), Seaweed Absolute.
photo by Karl©
Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakelite by Karl/ Nuit de Bakelite is the 2018 Winner of The Art and Olfaction Awards for independent perfumes and French Fifi Expert Award 2018 for an Independent brand
Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakelite (Isabelle Doyen) 2017: A collaboration between Australian designer Naomi Goodsir, Renaud Coutadier and master perfumer Isabelle Doyen, Nuit de Bakelite was inspired by Naomi Goodsir’s love of Bakelite jewelry and is an avant-garde expression of the tuberose flower in all its dimensions. Crunchy, vegetal, slightly bitter but creamy and voluptuous, Nuit de Bakelite harkens back to vintage perfumery but with a thoroughly modern twist. This is a head turning scent which has an otherworldly feel to it, exploding with tones of emerald heated plasticity, it turns rich and sensual with resinous notes and a soft tobacco base. This perfume redefines florals and creates a theme all of its own. Vividly green – it has been formulated around an array of raw materials with tuberose as the conductor. It is a tricky perfume to describe as it morphs chameleon-esque from slightly naïve Barbie to chain-smoking vixen. This is a perfume that purrs effortlessly then bites without warning. Notes: Angelica, Green notes, Tuberose, Artemesia, Leather, Styrax, Carrot seeds, Karo Karounde, Cardamom, Ylang-ylang.
Disclaimer: bottles of all the above perfumes kindly sent to me by the brands. My opinions however are my own.
Karl Topham, UK Ambassador and Senior Editor
Sous Le Manteau Paris Vapeurs Diablotines, Eris Parfums Belle De Jour, Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakelite
photo by Karl©
For our three independent perfumes you should be wearing giveaway
Thanks to the largess of Barbara Herman and Eris Parfums, we have a draw for 50 ml of Belle Du Jour Please register here or your comment will not count. USA ONLY
Mille Mercis to Olivia Bransbourg of 50 ml Sous Le Manteau Vapeurs DIablotines Please register here or your comment will not count. EU, UK and USA
With gratitude to Naomi Goodsir for 50 ml of Nuit de Bakelite in the USA, EU, UK. Please register here or your comment will not count.
To be eligible, please leave a comment with what intrigued you about Karl’s choices and reviews of the three independent perfumes every fragrance lover should try, what perfume(s) prize you wish to win and where you live. Have you tried Sous Le Manteau, Eris Parfums or Naomi Goodsir? Draw closes 8/28/22
Don’t know where to buy see a list of stockists for Sous Le Manteau here, Eris Parfums stockists here and Naomi Goodsir stockists aren’t listed but include among many Luckyscent, Indigo Perfumery, Perfumology in Philadelphia, Aedes Perfumery and 7scents in Hungary
Follow us on Instagram: @cafleurebonofficial @souslemanteauparis @erisparfums @naomigoodsir @nathaliefeisthauerparfumeur @antoinelieolfactiveexperience
Please read: Michelyn’s Creative Directors in Perfumery: Naomi Goodsir and Renee Coutadier
Ermano’s Modern Masterpieces Naomi Goodsir feature of Nuit de Bakelite here.
Pam Barr and Michelyn Camen’s overview of the inaugural trio of Eris Parfums here.
Ida Meister’s feature of Sous Le Manteau Vapeurs Diablotines here.
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