istock and apped sandalwood statue of Saraswati
By now, you are very likely aware that prolific award-winning artisanal perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’ website is Pandora’s box: a perfumed pantheon which may appear daunting in its scope and abundance; labyrinthine, even. That said – if you can’t find a fragrance to suit, then you haven’t really tried. Throughout the pandemic it feels as if she has been particularly creative in her ongoing output – and it seems that I could write about her incessantly and still not quite keep up. I’ve smelt any number of her lovely perfumes lately; one which stood out was DSH Perfumes Vachi, an idyllic, contemplative aromatic ode to the Hindu goddess Saraswati – the nurturer of education, creativity and the arts. She is traditionally depicted playing the veena, a seven-stringed instrument which is notoriously difficult to master – often standing or seated upon a lotus to reinforce her personification of skilled knowledge.
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes
DSH Perfumes Vachi (vachi translates as nectar-like speech or mellifluous voice) resonates with me on myriad levels. I became obsessed with Indian culture in early childhood, thanks to my favorite neighbors: cuisine, music, love of color, grace, aromas; their sense of community, beautiful garden and affectionate demeanor. Indian tradition filled a hole I didn’t know existed, and that has followed me throughout adulthood. Given my extreme fondness for fine sandalwood, DSH Vachi was a soft sell.
DSH Perfumes Vachi photo perfumer and Sarasvati wiki
A perfume both sacred and profane: DSH Perfumes Vachi is a cornucopia of precious woods and resins, spiced to perfection – which is accompanied by fruits dripping with juice and decadent blossoms. A soupçon of butter CO2 amplifies buttery sandalwoods and creamy cedar, the oud’s kiss. Dawn has created a lush black plum accord and employs a succulent white peach; these are enamored of pink pepper, cinnamon and cardamom, unquestionably. Nectarous champaca (a relative of the magnolia) encounters rose and herbal/rosy geranium, winsome jasmine sambac and leathery/apricot osmanthus along with a murmur of tobacco. One of the delicious contrasts is an umami black sesame accord which the perfumer likens to sprinkling salt on fruit: how apt that is! All of this voluptuousness is seated upon the base of sanctity: vetiver (the oil of tranquility), the holy myrrh, frankincense and Gurjun balsam sweetened with benzoin. The combined effect breaks the heart wide open: receptive, welcoming, tantric. I find DSH Perfumes Vachi both soothing and arousing – and nothing suits me better than a nuptial of the two. While it clings dulcetly to the flesh, Vachi is tenacious in its own manner and invites one to lean in, in order to become more intimately acquainted.
Notes: pink peppercorn, black sesame accord, black plum accord, white peach, champaca leaf, champaca absolute, butter CO2, cinnamon bark, cardamom seed, osmanthus absolute, rosa centifolia absolute, Egyptian rose geranium, jasmine sambac, tobacco absolute, Indonesian vetiver, Gurjun balsam, myrrh gum, Atlas cedarwood, Australian sandalwood, Mysore sandalwood, oud, frankincense, Siam benzoin
Sample provided by the perfumer. Many thanks! It’s stellar. My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor
Vachi is a limited edition sandalwood perfume
Thanks to the largesse of perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, we are offering one 10ml EdT or VdT perfume pen of Vachi for one registered reader anywhere in the world. You must be registered or your comment will not count. Please share with us what appeals to you about Ida’s review of DSH Perfumes Vachi and where you live. Draw closes 7/25/2022
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