WienerBlut Klubwasser via the brand

 

Du junges Grün, du frisches Gras!

Wie manches Herz durch dich genas,

Das von des Winters Schnee erkrankt,

O wie mein Herz nach dir verlangt! ~ Justinius Kerner, from the poem Erstes Grün, set to music by Robert Schumann

Translation: You youthful green, you fresh grass, how many hearts have you healed that fell ill from winter’s snow. Oh, how my heart yearns for you! (my translation)

Mountain Forest Ernst Ludwig Kirschner via Wikiart

Synaesthesia strikes once more as I inhale my newly purchased flacon of WienerBlut Klubwasser: a particularly compelling olfactory work of art which I experienced on the last day of Esxence 2022. For me, Klubwasser is a classic example of the elegance of verdancy, an aromatic etude as engaging as the Schumann lied above. As I had previously mentioned, no samples were available for me to explore further at Esxence – but my husband and I were so smitten by it that we sought out WienerBlut Klubwasser upon returning home.

Alexander Lauber, founder, owner and Creative Director via @Wienerblut

There was a great deal I didn’t know about the brand – but I certainly know the perfumer, Mark Buxton. The name WienerBlut (Viennese Blood) is a nod to composer Johann Strauss’ famous waltz written in 1873, that same year when Vienna hosted the fifth World’s Fair. It coincides with the historical era characterized as the Belle Époque, a time of conflicts and wars which concomitantly witnessed great advances in science, technology and the arts. The Austro-Hungarian Empire was at its peak. Popular fragrances (also known as Taschentuch, or ‘handkerchief’ perfumes) provided inspiration for the formulae which the house was to develop. Originally launched in 2009, WienerBlut Klubwasser possessed a significantly different profile than it does today – which I suspect has much to do with IFRA restrictions, expense, and a desire to maintain relevancy in today’s fragrance market. Such materials as oakmoss, iris and ambrette speak for themselves; what was acceptable/affordable then is seen through an evolutionary lens. Klubwasser possessed a lavender heart and an abundance of coumarin (as well as cistus labdanum in the base), which makes me think that it leaned more distinctly on the fougère side; how I would love the opportunity to smell them side-by-side!

 

Mountain Landscape 1920 by Ernst Ludwig Kirschner via Wikiart

Klubwasser is described by WienerBlut thusly: “Celebrating the centuries old philosophical concept of the man that is unspoiled by civilization, this fragrance highlights the raw beauty of uncultivated nature.” I brook no argument with this copy, but I would go so far as to add that the sophistication of natural materials cannot be overestimated in this case. WienerBlut Klubwasser is one of the most soigné, suave eaux de parfums I have come across in many years. A goodly portion of its charm arises from the employment of various hues of magnificently green bitter elements: those of mordant galbanum, nettle and ivy (I adore ivy!), and the peppery muskiness of angelica. I am not personally acquainted with the aroma of banana leaf, but I’ve been told that it smells more straw- and hay-like than fruity. The neroli in Klubwasser adds a delightful luminosity and radiance overall, and especially in light of its deeply resinous, woody base, it is a welcome companion. Tendrils of precious smoke entwine with the verdant: the lemon pepper of elemi and guaiac wood accent the terpenic quality of lentisque (mastic) resin and the warm, patchouli-like balsamic nature of Gurjun balsam. Additionally, I find that Klubwasser fits master perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena’s avowal of his favored fragrances at 2019’s Pitti Fragranze: “I prefer to smell bitter, to smell intelligent.”

I can envision why this fragrance was named Klubwasser: there is a worldliness, a finesse about it which would speak to any member of a discreet, exclusive gentlemen’s club in London or anywhere else. James Bond would suit. However, from a current-day point of view it is as gorgeous as it gets for any given gender; that’s why both my husband and I are mad about it on one another. My skin always accentuates a floral/herbal aspect, whereas he pulls the more musky vein and it waxes more animalic on him. Either way, I view WienerBlut Klubwasser as a must try; nature and élan converge with a singular freshness and vitality which is irresistible.

Notes: neroli, angelica root, elemi, banana leaf, galbanum, nettle, ivy, smoked wood, guaiac wood, Gurgun balsam, lentisque (mastic)

Review based upon a bottle I purchased. My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

WienerBlut Klubwasser courtesy of the brand

Something this delicious needs to be shared. To that end, I’m offering a decant from my recently purchased flacon of WienerBlut Klubwasser for one registered reader in the EU, USA, UK. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what intrigued you about Ida’s review and where you live. Draw closes 7/16/2022

Wiener Klubwasser was composed in 2019 by Mark Buxton

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