Exaltatum By Serpentine and Palm Trees (photos from the brand and Unsplash, edited by Rachel)
I have sampled thousands of perfumes over the past decade and yet I am still astounded by the variety of scents created by perfumers. I admit, there are days where I shake my head and sigh about yet another commercial fruity floral however, fortunately, it is never long before I am rejuvenated by something so unique and beautifully crafted that my faith in this art form is renewed.
Eglija Vaitkevice, owner and perfumer of Exaltatum (photo from the brand)
Most recently this revival occurred when I smelled the two newest releases from independent brand, Exaltatum. Perfumer Eglija Vaitkevice has been creating scents for her brand since 2016 and it was the series of reviews by Former Contributor Samantha Scriven of her earlier releases (Ruby Wood, St. Paul’s, Mimosa Gold and Osmanthus Noble) that tempted me into purchasing a sample set from Indigo Perfumery. There was not a bad one in the bunch and clearly all were made with the highest quality ingredients and masterful hand. When Indigo Perfumery included Exaltatum By Serpentine, one of the two 2021 Exaltatum releases (Riverwalk being the second) in the December Indigo Scented subscription pack, I couldn’t wait to get my nose on it.
By Serpentine with Curry (photos from the brand and Unsplash, edited by Rachel
Exaltatum By Serpentine is one of those fragrances where the listed notes are only a small part of the story. There is so much more going on with this scent than what meets the eye. When I first spray it, you get an initial burst of Sichuan and pink pepper that blends mysteriously with the citruses and dried fruits. It creates a gourmand note that almost makes my mouth water in anticipation of a curry dish laden with tamarind and spicy peppers. Across the Middle East, from the Levant to Iran, tamarind is used in savory dishes, notably meat-based stews, and often combined with dried fruits to achieve a sweet-sour tang. By Serpentine, perhaps in a happy coincidence, captures that deliciousness.
It was Ida’s thoughtful essay on fragrances that don’t smell like pastries that originally brought to mind how much I enjoy a non-sweet gourmand perfume. Don’t get me wrong, there is always a place for those cozy vanilla, caramel and marshmallow perfumes; I own many a bottle from this category. However, scents that are reminiscent of savory dishes of the “pre-dessert” variety are what tend to pique my interest. By Serpentine takes me back to my years in Dubai and Abu Dhabi where multi-cultural is the normal way of life. Within a one mile radius of the city center you can experience the main culinary dishes of much of the world. Due to large swaths of the UAE population originating from SE Asia, food from places such as India, Pakistan, Thailand and the Philippines was abundant and I quickly adopted a love of curries, especially those with a mix of fiery chilis tempered by sweet coconut and tart tamarind.
Exaltatum By Serpentine with Hookah (photos from the brand and Unsplash, edited by Rachel)
I am further drawn into this savory deliciousness that begins the story of By Serpentine, as wisps of tobacco mingle with the stewed fruits to create the hint of shisha (hookah) smoke wafting from the distance. The greenness of the frankincense and fir notes blend perfectly into the scene created in my mind of a picnic in a park, not in London’s Hyde Park where Serpentine Lake is located and from where Ms. Vaitkevice drew her inspiration for this fragrance but, to a park in the Middle East where groups of families and friends from all over the world gather together on a cool evening as the sun sets (the best time for a picnic in the Middle East). Tiffins of various curries and rice are shared amongst all as laughter and numerous dialects intermingle with the sun’s dying rays. Groups of older Arab men gather their folding chairs into a circle to enjoy some hubbly-bubbly while gently admonishing the children who chase their soccer ball in and out of the blankets laid out on the manicured lawn.
The Serpentine, Hyde Park James Francis Cropsey
The base of By Serpentine is silky, smooth and balsamic. With its lingering dusty patchouli and cedarwood, I can just make out the women in the park dressed in their colorful saris that hold the scent of incense burned earlier in the day, sipping cups of spiced black tea still steaming from the thermos that held it’s aroma and warmth. The scent is as comforting as the cool breeze rustling through the palm fronds that dot the landscape of the park.
As I spend more time with Exaltatum By Serpentine, I know I did not make a mistake by giving it a special mention in my Best of 2021 list. Eglija has twisted together a very unique scent that magically brings back a flood of fond memories of many an evening spent at the park.
Disclaimer: Review is based on a sample I purchased from Indigo Perfumery. My opinions are my own.
Rachel Watson, Senior Contributor
Exaltatum By Serpentine was created by Eglija Vaitkevice in 2021
Top: Bergamot, Orange Bigarade, Pink pepper, Sichuan pepper
Heart: Cherry, Dried fruits, Artemisia, Violet leaf absolute
Base: Fir balsam, Tobacco accord, Cedarwood, Patchouli, Olibanum
Exaltatum By Serpentine photo from the brand
Thanks to the generosity of Exaltatum we have a 30ml bottle of By Serpentine for one registered reader in the US or EU. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparks your interest about Rachel’s review, if you enjoy savory scents and where you live. Draw closes 2/21/22
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