For as long as ÇaFleureBon has been giving end of year Best Fragrance awards (2010), (2011), (2012), (2013), (2014), (2015), (2016) (2017), (2018) and (2019) and 2020 there was always the question, “was this a good year for perfume”? 2021 began with the specter of the Pandemic and many launches were put off until mid-late year. As we end the year times are still unsettling, so as in 2020 there are no “worst ofs”. Ermano smelt 500+ perfumes this year, but almost all were European, whereas Michelyn was able to test around the same number with about 40 percent from the USA. Surprisingly, our choices are similar!!! It was a very good year, at least for perfume-Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief and Ermano Picco, Editor
2021 Best Trends: Globalized Perfumery, Mobile Marketing, Reconnecting with Nature, Eco-sustainability, Digital Events and Abstract Oud
Still in the midst of the pandemic, I attended Pitti Fragranze for the first time in two years where a major trend was taking inspiration from Human Emotion and having a more inclusive, Globalized Perfumery. Social distancing has affected us profoundly and so that is also reflected in fragrance. Creative directors focus on what’s missing the most: people and emotions. Moreover, the rising of brands from countries that love niche perfumery but aren’t yet represented in the global market. It’s the case of Eastern Europe with interesting brands like Russian perfumer Yanina Yakusheva, PURESENSE, and perfumer Yulia Vinogradova with her line Metaphysica- Ermano Picco, Editor
Oud has been one of the most ubiquitous in the perfumes of the last two decades. It was innovative in western fragrances, before becoming trendy. Later agarwood became a classic, shaping the taste of the public for typical Middle Eastern woody-ambery perfumes and fostering the success of many brands. Oud (real and synthetic, expensive and cheap) flooded the market from fine fragrance to detergents. 2021 saw as a steady trend fragrance using Abstract Oud as a way to enhance the perfumer’s palette and not as literal as in past years. Exquisite examples of this trend are Rubini Nuvolari, Laboratorio Olfattivo ExlpOud, UÈRMI UD IKAT and Cherigan Adhara Oud.
Amouage Silver Oud and OUD 7 by Matiere Premiere should also be applauded. REALOUD 2, composed by American Perfumer David Falsberg of Phoenicia Perfumes do not cut any corners, are small batch and bears mentioning although there is nothing abstract about it.-Michelyn Camen, Editor-In-Chief
Everything vegetal and fruity, for a juicy future. If Reconnecting with Nature is a trend, Eco-sustainability is here to last. The use of sustainable raw materials resulted in brilliant new specialties that gave way to incredible lively, tasty, juicy accords bringing new life to floral bouquets, chypres and fougères. The pandemic might have something to do with it: these notes smell cheerful and youthful, but they are a reminder of a greener, healthier lifestyle as well related to stamina and immune system. For example: Voskanian Pèche Chyprée and Pekji Purpl. Last but not least, the lockdown period forced brands to professionalize their tools. The category is Mobile Marketing. QR codes are popping up on business cards, brochures, and discovery kits. Also, next-gen perfume boxes feature QR codes, and even NFC sensors allowing not also the consumer to access extra contents, but also professionals to retrieve information about the distribution chain etc.-Ermano Picco, Editor
A BIG trend and hopefully one that will continue for years to come are Instalives, Zoom events, dedicated workshops and gatherings, held by perfumers, brands, Fragrance Institutions, content creators and retailers which although not new took hold and engaged fragrance lovers globally in 2021. One of the most fun of the 2021 Best trends is Sr. Contributor Olya Bar and Professor Dr. Daisy Bow (an Assistant Professor at the New School and FIT) @perfumeplaydate where participants can weigh in on everything from “scrubbers” to “perfume names that are a shame.”-Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
Best Fragrance Of The Year: Naomi Goodsir Corpus Equus and Parfum D’Empire Mal-Aime
Naomi Goodsir Corpus Equus (so beautifully reviewed by Sr. Contributor, Emmanuelle Varron). This deeply animalic, smoky leather inspired by Naomi Goodsir’s white horse named Tequila feels incredibly gorgeous. Smelling this total-black fragrance, you can sense the workmanship with its purple, green and indigo mirrored reflections and by the opaque, velvety tactile feeling it imparts, like running your fingers on fine suede and silky horse hair, smooth and incredibly supple for such an intense leather smell.-Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen
I have a tie: Corpus Equus for all the reasons you site and Parfum d’Empire Mal Aime which shows the true genius of Marc-Antoine Corticchiato as both a perfumer and alchemist. The idea that beauty is everywhere in nature even in weeds, was magically captured in one of the best perfumes of the year. -Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
Best Creative Director: Naomi Goodsir and Renaud Coutaudier and Renaud Salmon
photo 2014
Naomi Goodsir and Renaud Coutaudier -Ermano Picco
Renaud Salmon
Renaud Salmon, Chief Experience Officer of Amouage has succeeded in not only bridging the world of Arabic and Western perfumery but also in creating a sense of continuity between what was created in the past and what is yet to come. I am looking forward to what’s next-Michelyn Camen, Editor-in Chief
Best Fragrance you never heard of
Photographer and perfumer Christele Jaquemin ‘s Memory Lane is a bittersweet journey to her childhood home of Valliguières-Michelyn Camen, Editor-in Chief
Best 2021 Niche House: Rubini and Naomi Goodsir
If Slow Perfumery had a family name, that would be Rubini. Launching in 2021 the 3rd creation in 6 years and piling up a remarkable trio of unique fragrances, with the adrenaline inducing smoked woody Nuvolari created by Cristiano Canali that made one of the best highlights of the year, Rubini Profumi deserves for his consistency and vision the best niche house of 2021.-Ermano
My “hat” is off to Naomi Goodsir who came back strong after 2017’s Nuit de Bakelite, with one of my favorite perfumes of the year Corpus Equus-Michelyn
Best 2021 Artisan/independent house: Parfum d’Empire and Rogue Perfumery
Marc-Antoine Corticchiato amazing Mal Aimé wins for its original concept and unusual materials. This definitely makes Parfum d’Empire my best independent house for 2021.-Ermano Picco
Starting his career as a chef, Manuel Cross of Rogue has quickly established himself as a perfumer whose love for classic 60s and 70s fragrances color his work. This year, he composed Derviche 2 which was a brighter version of the original and Vetifleur, a lush floral ode to classic chypres that is sparklingly, elegant, timeless and stunning.- Michelyn Camen
Best 2021 Perfumer: Bertrand Duchaufour, Cecile Zarokian and Nathalie Feisthauer
2021 definitely marked The Return of Bertrand Duchaufour that with Corpus Equus, created for Naomi Goodsir, proved once more to be one of the Great Masters at bridging tradition and modernity, bringing back to life a contemporary take on the mythical Lanvin Scandal no less. –Ermano
Cecile Zarokian and Nathalie Feisthauer
Here I have a tie: Cecile Zarokian and Nathalie Feisthauer
Both created some of the best and memorable perfumes of 2021. Cecile returned to Amouage after 11 years with three stunning and very different fragrances: Material, which just might top her signature gourmands, Silver Oud, a perfect addition to the Omani brand’s “Epic” storytelling (pun intended) and Amouage 56, a deeper, richer, more potent and in my opinion even more beautiful version of the original epic Woman of 2009.
Nathalie Feisthauer has long been a favorite perfumer of mine, ever since Eau de Merveilles for Hermes. Her versatility and technical skill shone like the scent star she is with almost 30 launches of her perfumes including Naam Chaa for Parfumeurs du Monde, Lys Solaberg for Maison Crivelli, Puredistance #12, Sous Le Manteau Odisiaque 6 and from Indult, the addictive My Ju My Ju. -Michelyn
Best 2021 Natural Perfume House: Parfumeurs de Monde and Voyage Imaginaires
The universe of Parfumeurs du Monde was created in 2016 by perfumer Thierry Bernard and his partner Gwenaëlle Chauvin, the 100% natural high perfumery brand was love at first scent at Esxence 2017 for me and was voted our “2017 Best Natural Perfume House During 2021Parfumeurs du Monde officially launched six new perfumes, with new branding and bottles and perfumers including Bertrand Duchaufour, Nathalie Feisthauer, Ellen Dalgreen and Alexandre Isaïe Helwani (also our colleague, a perfumer and ÇaFleureBon Contributor). Each fragrance is unique, beautifully composed, uses the finest raw materials and tells very personal olfactive stories. Welcome back to our Best of Scent awards! -Michelyn Camen
Established by former Goutal’s creative duo Camille Goutal and Isabelle Doyen, Voyages Imaginaires officially launched five creations bridging classic perfumery and new sensibility. Haute-couture natural extractions used at best to satisfy both traditional perfumery and natural perfumery lovers. -Ermano Picco
Best Natural Perfumer: Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal, Thierry Bernard
Isabelle Doyen with Échappée Sauvage succeeded to create a stunning Mediterranean smellscape where fig is the yummy centerpiece. I am still astonished at how she succeeded to concoct such a flawless, mouthwatering natural fig accord without stemone (the key synthetic molecule Olivia Giacobetti used to invent her famous fig accord later become a basic in fruity notes).
Thierry Bernard, the founder and perfumer for Parfumeurs du Monde chose to reproduce as faithfully as possible the Temple of Jerusalem Ketoret incense, rich in 11 ingredients, for some almost impossible to find. His dedication to the art of natural perfumery and this composition which is one of the best incense fragrances I have smelled in several years makes him my choice. -Michelyn Camen and Ermano Picco
Best 2021 Come Back: Aedes de Venustas Perfumes
Aedes Perfumery owner Karl Bradl and Robert Gerstner have brought the AEDES de VENUSTAS signature line and in 2021 have added 16a Orchard and Encens Japonais-Michelyn
Best bottle: Etat Libre d’Orange Ghost in a Shell and Paco Rabanne Phantom
Wrong name but for sure best bottle: Paco Rabanne Phantom-Ermano
Ghost in the Shell -Not only was the name my favorite, but the tactile bottle felt like human skin, when the sense of touch has become almost a forgotten sense.
Best limited edition
Molinard Habanita “100 Ans” red edition-Michelyn and Ermano
Best Fragrance Event: Pitti Fragranze 19 and Olfactory Art Keller New York New Fumes
Pitti Fragranze 19-Ermano
Olfactory Art Keller New York New Fumes: 21 olfactive artists, perfumers and musicians creatively engage with scents. Each contributed a single new scent many of them in unique containers designed by the artist. This exhibit gives me hope that originality is alive and well commercial appeal be damned. The exhibit is on Henry Street-Michelyn
Best Bang for the Buck
The 2021 Jo Loves for Zara perfume collection “Vibrant Cities”. As Jo Malone said, the collection takes inspiration from the return to the pioneering spirit of travel and the discovery of the vibrancy of life again. One of the best in the collection is Stunningly Venice, a smooth scent with myrrh, fruity notes and a sparkling bergamot opening. You can get a 40ml bottle for less than 20$. Ermano
Rising Star: Alexandre Issaie Helwani and Tsvovak Voskanian
28 years old Armenian self-taught perfumer Tsovak Voskanian was the revelation of 2021. With his brand Voskanian I was enthralled with his limited-edition perfumes featuring essences he personally cultivates and distills in the neighborhood of Yerevan. His sophisticated, creative and incredibly well-balanced eau de parfum line delighted me as well. So, keep an eye on the guy, for he’s going to do great things soon. –Ermano Picco
Alexandre Issaie Helwani wins this category hands down for me. It is a rare occurrence when you watch your colleague do more than write about perfume and creates one… using all naturals. Bravo for Makeda. –Michelyn
Best (fragrance) Book: “Atlante degli odori ritrovati: viaggio nella memoria delle emozioni and The Perfume Companion
My best fragrance books this year goes to Italian food stylist and perfume lover Roberta Deiana who wrote the amazing “Atlante degli odori ritrovati: viaggio nella memoria delle emozioni” (Atlas of the recovered smells: a journey through the memory of emotions). The book focuses on everyday smells that become meaningful for the emotions they bring. From the smell of bread to the smell of cities, emotional paths and perfumery mix in about 200 pages of pleasant reading. -Ermano
Kudos to co-authors Sarah McCartney and Samantha Scriven for writing a perfume book that not only includes niche and luxury brands but fragrances you can find in the drugstore. Whether you are a seasoned perfumista or a newbie you need this on your bookshelf. -Michelyn
Best Collaboration: KAWS x COMME des GARÇONS and Jovoy x CaFleureBon Make it Musk
KAWS x COMME des GARÇONS’ MIRROR fragrance. The artist collaborated with Comme des Garcons and perfumer Nicolas Beaulieu for an unusual musky floral with turmeric spiced and powdery hints-Ermano Picco.
Ermano, I normally recuse myself from CaFleureBon collaborations but there was nothing this year that was more profoundly on point with reconnecting to our humanity than Make it Musk, which was eight months in the making and involved Jovoy Paris, their team spearheaded by Francois Henin (see my MVP) and thirteen of our editors who curated 14 musk perfumes ranging from soft and subtle to bold and potent. Team work made the dream work. -Michelyn
2021 Hardest Working Person in Perfume: Alessandro Brun and Samantha Scriven
Alessandro Brun
Being a University Professor at Politecnico di Milano, and co-directing two perfume houses like Masque Milano and Milano Fragranze (that launched almost 12 successful perfumes in the last year Alessandro Brun already deserves an award. But thinking he also oversees Malbrum line, I still wonder how he finds the time for his family and for playing his famous guitar solos! Kudos!
A special mention goes also to our EIC Michelyn Camen who literally makes miracles with her original concepts and collaborations (Profiles in American Perfumery, Creative Directors in Perfumery, Young Perfumer Series and Perfumer’s Workshop to mention a few), posting original contents every single day. Chapeau! -Ermano
Ermano, that means so much to me, because all of our writers and editors work so hard and they are the miracle. Alessandro Brun also wins this category for me. I don’t think the man sleeps. To launch a new brand Milano Fragranze in the middle of Pandemic took courage and a lot of caffeine.
Samantha Scriven
Samantha Scriven, co-author of The Perfumed Companion and former CaFleureBon Contributor writes almost daily for her blog I scent you a day, is the brand ambassador for Le Jardin Retrouve, a loving mother and wife. You do so much Sam, thank you on behalf of the fragrance community- Michelyn
Best Home Fragrance: Chiara Giulia Micoccio Signature Candle, Prosody London Carissima and Sanae Intoxicants Vetiver Rosewood
With so many of us working from home perfuming our personal space became as important as our bodies. We introduce this new category to our Best 2021 awards
Prosody London Carissima – Renaissance Art Diffuser
What differentiates the Prosody London diffusers are the thickness of the rattan sticks which holds more oils and allows scent to waft throughout the room without clogging, which means you never have to flip the reeds, which last for over four months. All raw materials used are sourced globally, sustainably harvested and all-natural. Perfumer Kershen Teo of Prosody London creates a scent inspired by the tenderness of Raphael’s Madonna and Child, captured in tones of honeyed lavender, sumptuous marine and bright summer fruit. A heavenly joy. -Michelyn
Sanae Intoxicants Vetiver Rosewood: To create an all-natural candle that burns clean takes a lot of skill., as the proportions of ingredients have to be just so for the longevity of the burn. In Vetiver Rosewood, Sanae Barber, an all-natural perfumer achieves this balance beautifully using Indonesian vetiver and organic rosewood an exquisite combination.
Chiara Giulia Micoccio Signature Candle by Antonio Alessandria. Its petalicious osmanthus based fragrance rills the room with its very chic plum-tinged supple leather, but this candle is amazing in many ways.100% made in Italy, it sums up the best craftsmanship, starting from the haute couture silk and linen bag that houses the handmade and handpainted ceramic made in Salento and styled by the fashion designer Chiara Giulia Micoccio. -Ermano Picco
Best Ad: Gucci Flora Gorgeous Gardenia and Axe
Gucci Flora Gorgeous Gardenia commercial is incredibly joyful and I love it. Directed by Petro Collins, the advertising featuring American singer Miley Cyrus under the creative direction of Alessandro Michele clearly inspired by early 1980s romantic perfume commercials and girl anime like Lulu, The Flower Angel is going to make gamification a trend in advertisement. -Ermano
Hang on, my best ad is “The Walk” from Axe (really): Fun, quirky and cheerful this ad doesn’t use famous models, celebrities nor sexy images and is just a delight. “Irresistible” by Australian rapper Jordan Dennis plays in the background. You need to watch it especially if you want to smile here -Michelyn
Best Designer Fragrance: Les Heures de Parfum L’Heure Osée
Cartier in-house perfumer Mathilde Laurent did it again! Les Heures de Parfum L’Heure Osée is a daring contemporary rose perfume that strikes for its chic yet provocative take where the most gorgeous shocking pink tinged rose exudes a pop aura mixing pulpy fruitiness and luminous green notes, along with leathery and bubblegum hints.-Michelyn and Ermano
Best Celebrity Fragrance
God is A woman be Ariane Grande. I like her fragrances in general. But kudos to Ariana Grande’s first perfume, (composed by Jerome Epinette) with 91% naturally derived ingredients, including all natural ambrette. The Ariana Grande Fragrance Brand will make a donation of $5 from each bottle sold (up to $55, 000) towards ocean clean up. My niece wore and it smelled great. Confession I haven’t smelled any others this year.-Michelyn
photo by Nicoleta
Best Perfume You Want to Eat
Milano Fragranze Panettone which bottles the delicious Italian Christmas Cake. -Ermano and Michelyn
Bringing Vintage Back
Celebrating the 110th anniversary, in 2021 Guerlain in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser reissued Kadine, a lesser-known opulent amber floral created in 1911 by Jacques Guerlain. Long before Shalimar, East met West with Kadine, which name in Turkish language refers to “the wife of the Sultan”. -Ermano
Changing the Olfactive Language
“Oriental” is not a term to describe the way a perfume smells. It is outdated, insulting and not acceptable. Ambery, resinous, vanilla are some alternatives. I hope by 2022 not to see the term on any website or used as a fragrance description.-Michelyn
Best Flanker: Mugler Alien Goddess eau de parfum
A good Mugler perfume (almost) never disappoints, and this Alien flanker is the case. Composed by Marie Salamagne and Nathalie Lorson, Mugler Alien Goddess eau de parfum takes the original theme of Alien to a brighter, up-to-date solar floral direction. The result is different but as gorgeous as the original. -Ermano
Best Fragrance Name: Synthetic Jungle and Etat Libre D’Orange Ghost in a Shell
Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle Synthetic Jungle. The fragrance composed by IFF Senior Perfumer Anne Flipo is a luscious green floral, but the name itself is even better for dignifying the word “synthetic”, a classic taboo in perfume communication.
Love the fragrance, not so much the name.so my choice is Etat Libre D’Orange Ghost in A Shell-Michelyn
Francois Henin
MVPP (Most Valuable Perfume Person) Francois Henin of Jovoy Paris and Olivier Pierre David
Where do I begin. Eleven years ago, just around the time I started CaFleureBon, I met Francois Henin, the owner, founder (creative director for Jovoy Paris and Jeroboam). So many small lesser-known brands got their start in the shoppe on 4 Rue Castiglione. Francois is hands-on; behind the scenes he packs boxes, hand delivers perfumes to his clients, hosts events and is so passionate about fragrance he is nicknamed “the ambassador of niche perfume”. Today there are six Jovoy boutiques and Francois with his team continues to search the globe for the best artistic perfumes in the world. Did I mention he is the most charming man in perfume land, which maybe should have its own award next year
Chemistry Professor and researcher at Institut Lavoisier in Versailles, Olivier Pierre David also happens to be one of the most knowledgeable guys in Perfumeland about history and chemistry and a valuable contributor for Nez la review olfactive, aside being a vintage collector. In 2021 he became part of the technical team at the Osmothèque Versailles, and yet he keeps sharing fragrant knowledge and culture every day on social networks. Definitely this makes him one of the Most Valuable Perfume Person of 2021. – Ermano
Best Buzz
François Demachy retirement and Françis Kurkdjian hired as the new in-house perfumer chez Christian Dior. We are VERY excited -Michelyn and Ermano
Hall Of Fame: Carlos J. Powell, Christophe Laudamiel and Mandy Aftel
photo from Steven of Carlos Powell aka The Brooklyn Fragrance Lover
We have a special award post humously to Carlos J. Powell, who tragically passed February 7. 2021. Known for his YouTube channel The Brooklyn Fragrance Lover, he won the hearts of so many perfume lovers for his warm personality and dedication to the #fragcomm. You are missed.
Mandy Aftel and Christophe Laudamiel
Mandy Aftel: Mandy is undisputedly the Queen of Green, the godmother of natural perfumery, a multi-award winning author who continues to be a pioneer with Aftelier Perfumes. Her Archive of Curious Scents” is next door to her home where visitors( (thankfully reopened)will be able to smell more than three hundred natural essences derived from fruits, flowers, trees, grasses, and other natural sources. She has written 5 books on natural essences & perfume and although she is American, her appeal is worldwide.
Christophe Laudamiel: Outspoken, passionate about perfumery, an activist and fearless, Christophe is one of the best perfumers in the world. With fragrances for Tom Ford, Strangelove, Grandiflora and so many more including his own brand The Zoo NYC. He recently opened Juices by CL on 66 Greenwich Street in New York. His achievements are too numerous to list but include representing the Osmotheque and curating events. Christophe is one of a kind, and perfumery needs more people like him. -Michelyn Camen
My Hall of Fame goes to Tanja Bochnig of April Aromatics, who silently yet steadily worked in the last 10 years growing her brand April Aromatics from a pioneer of German 100% natural niche perfumery to a renowned natural perfumer also composing fragrances for other perfume and skincare brands. Nonetheless she stayed true to her values both ethical and aesthetics. In 2021 she crowned this milestone launching the joyful Wild Summer Crush inspired by the memory of a hot, sultry summer night in the orchards of southern Italy. This youthful memory smelling of lively citrus, refreshing iced teas and fresh fruits as well as coconut, sunscreens and tanned skin makes the birthday party go on and on at every spray. Best wishes for more to come Tanja!-Ermano
What did you think of Ermano’s and Michelyn’s ÇaFleureBon Best Fragrances of 2021?
We will be back with our top ten tomorrow, as well as over the next few days, Ida, Lauryn, Despina, Emmanuelle, Nicoleta, Rachel, Steven and Olya will award their favorites form 2021. There will be MANY DRAWS
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