All too often in fragrance when something disappears it is gone for good. The list of discontinued fragrances lamented by perfumistas as “ahead of their time” or “right fragrance wrong time” or “my favorite of which I own ten back-up bottles so I will never be without it” is far too long.

Those of you who read me regularly know of my love for all of the Jean Patou fragrances and my wish to see them returned to a place of glory….that dream is probably never going to happen. On the other hand another long lost fragrance I liked very much has found its way back from oblivion.

There are many fragrances, especially men’s fragrances, which take men’s clothing designers as their inspiration. Far too many men match the fragrance on their chest to the name on their jeans, or their underwear. When it comes to that kind of men’s fragrances the misses far outnumber the hits. One of my favorite men’s designers is George Zaharoff his designs are classic men’s style. Every collection is inspired by a place M Zaharoff has traveled to and he has traveled seemingly everywhere.

 

Five years ago I was having the “perfume conversation” with one of my friends. That conversation goes like this, usually.

“Mark I really don’t know much about fragrance, like you, but I really like the fragrance I’m wearing now.”

I warily reply; “Oh, what are you wearing?”

The response ranges anywhere from Axe to Zegna. Like the fragrances above there are usually more misses than hits and it leads to my polite reply; “Do you like wearing it? Because that’s really all that matters.”

But rarely, very rarely, am I surprised. On this day five years ago my friend brought out this unfamiliar bottle and handed it to me. I asked what it was and he said Zaharoff pour Homme. I had heard of Zaharoff but did not know of the fragrance. I was simultaneously intrigued and cautious. George Zaharoff has a great sense of style this could be good on the other hand if I’ve never heard of it how good can it be? I sniffed the atomizer and thought not bad. Then I sprayed a bit on my forearm and in fits and starts over the next hour of conversation I kept adding more to my body really enjoying this fragrance. I left saying to myself I have to go buy a bottle of that.

As I would come to find out by 2006 Zaharoff pour Homme had been off the market for about five years. It was released in 1999 and had moderate success but it would become a casualty of the economic downturn post 9/11. Another fragrance that I would never own; or would I get a second chance?

This past August at the Elements Showcase in New York City my second chance arrived. I walked up to the EM Distribution booth and was mainly interested in the Amouage fragrances on display but then I looked over and saw a fairly plain bottle with the words Zaharoff pour Homme on it. I asked if I could try it and as soon as I sniffed the strip I realized opportunity was knocking a second time. Marlena Miglin Egan would tell me that Zaharoff pour Homme was on the verge of being re-launched. First in Nordstrom stores, nationwide, in October 2011; and everywhere else in March of 2012. This time I wouldn’t let opportunity go wanting.

Now that I’ve had some time to fully wear and enjoy Zaharoff pour Homme I realized what I like about it so much is it is an easy-wearing fragrance without being boring. M Zaharoff, working with the perfumers at Givaudan, chose to use some excellent ingredients and keep it all on the sharp but casual side of things. Zaharoff pour Homme is a great choice for a man who only wants to own one bottle of fragrance because it is easily wearable in any season from home to office to gala. What I call a Swiss Army Knife fragrance, wearable for any occasion.

Zaharoff pour Homme starts off with lavender and it is a well-chosen lavender as it imparts the floral quality but also the slight sharpness that good lavender has. It is joined by bergamot and a hint of ylang ylang to keep the lavender more floral than sharp. The heart of Zaharoff pour Homme is where this fragrance shines; oud, sandalwood, and myrrh make an outstanding middle phase. All three of these notes are shown to their best ability. The oud stays exotic but not overbearing; the sandalwood exudes a woody sweetness which is accentuated by the sweet resinous myrrh. This reminds me of a more refined YSL M7. The base is patchouli with a twist of ginger and a bit of anise. The patchouli in particular does a nice job holding the foundation of Zaharoff pour Homme together.

Zaharoff pour Homme has excellent all-day longevity and above average sillage.

I am grateful for the second chance to own Zaharoff pour Homme. For most of you this will be the first time to experience this fragrance. I think if you like other men’s oriental fragrances Zaharoff pour Homme will be a discovery. For me it is like discovering a long lost friend but this time I’m going to keep in contact or at least friend him on Facebook.

Disclosure: This review was based on a sample provided by EM Distribution at the Elements Showcase.

Leave a comment naming the fragrance you would like to have a second chance with.

–Mark Behnke, Managing Editor