The Perfume Companion with the Authors Sarah McCartney and Samantha Scriven photos by Sarah, Samantha and Michelyn
Perfume guides, reviews and commentary abound everywhere one looks: nolo contendere. While there exists a multitude of reference materials regarding the nuts and bolts of perfumery, the first real guide to classification, description and examples can be traced to Michael Edwards’ Fragrances of the World which debuted in 1983. Since then we have read the opinions and prose of Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez, Barbara Herman and Neil Chapman. 2021 has brought us a different sort of aromatic vision provided by artisan perfumer Sarah McCartney (4160Tuesdays) in collaboration with perfume journalist Samantha Scriven of iscentyouaday.com perfume blog,( formerly Senior Contributor at ÇaFleureBon). In their newly-released The Perfume Companion: The Definitive Guide to Choosing Your Next Scent, they have reviewed nearly 500 fragrances from a perspective based upon perfume fact, cost, and a singular lack of bias: if there is a particular fragrance which is inexpensive and marvelous, it’s included as well. I consumed this entire volume cover-to-cover in one day; granted, I dedicated that day to nothing else – but The Perfume Companion held my interest. Does it include every possible perfume since the beginning of time? NO. That is not the goal; the fragrances were carefully chosen and winnowed out from Pandora’s Box, no doubt – and if the co-authors didn’t suffer a nervous breakdown during the process, it’s nothing short of miraculous.
Page 174 photo by MIchelyn
Several aspects distinguish Sarah McCartney and Samantha’ Scrivens guide from all the previous ones, primarily a complete lack of snobbery or pretension and) the desire to illuminate grey areas of understanding. Have I purchased, read and enjoyed all the other guides? You bet I have, and will continue to do so – but this one manages, without condescension – to provide useful information; brief, legible histories; explanations of definitions; answers to the unasked questions about which many beginning perfume amateurs (meaning “those who love”) may be hesitant. There are footnotes delineating specific note perceptions – such as what makes a floral ‘classic’, why citruses are so fleeting, what are ‘imagined aromas’, why and how gin smells the way it does, and other engrossing scented snippets which enrich the reader’s knowledge base. The glossary included helps dispel doubts about the vocabulary fragrance lovers and perfumers bandy about – sillage, niche vs. artisan, the “Big Five”, et al. The information is delivered succinctly, often tongue-in-cheek, but it’s good-humored and all in fun – although it helps if you are familiar with current day British English (as opposed to American English); otherwise, one might feel a wee bit out of place.
Page 180 photo by Michelyn
The Perfume Companion is the first fragrance guide to recommend Axe/Lynx body sprays, Avon, and multiple modern variants of 4711, Demeter and other bon marché scents which won’t break the bank; it’s a refreshing change of pace. Other points of departure are reviews of LUSH fragrances and suggestions for a less expensive perfume option when available. I appreciate (and I hope others will as well) that the cost of each fragrance is rated (in British pounds) – so that the reader may gauge the damage before they open their wallet. Overall, the fragrance descriptions are fairly brief, witty and enjoyable, and make for a pleasurable read.
Photo by Michelyn
Categorization includes concept scents, mossy, oud, musk, marine and soliflores – all of which makes perfect sense. It bears repeating that I can’t possibly fathom how the authors managed to cull the immense herd of fragrances available – all the while keeping an eye on availability, so that readers wouldn’t be forced to languish over The Unattainable, Discontinued or Vintage.
In the ongoing interests of transparency, I requested a copy for review and was very kindly sent one – for which I am thankful. We at ÇaFleureBon are so very proud of Sarah and Sam and the fruit of their hard-won labor, and wish them every success!
We hope you will support them and buy The Perfume Guide here
~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor
Editor’s Note: Special acknowledgment was given to the contributions of perfume enthusiast Brooke Belldon (also a former CaFleureBon contributor) which is graciously noted on the ABOUT THE AUTHORS PAGE.-Michelyn (who also received a copy from the publishers)
All photos via Michelyn, Sarah, Samantha and the publisher unless otherwise noted.
Frances Lincoln Publishing©
Thanks to the generosity of Sarah McCartney and Samantha Scriven, we may offer two volumes of The Perfume Companion: The Definitive Guide to Choosing Your Next Scent for two registered readers Worldwide. To be eligible, please share with us why this book appeals to you based on Ida’s review and where you live. Draw closes 11/15/202
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