Technique Indiscrète : “Impassioned Talent in Couture & Perfume” + Coming to America Reader’s Choice Draw

In comparison to Michelyn and Mark, I can’t rightly avow that I am as impassioned a follower of Haute Couture.

We all share a common love of beauty and quality, but I’ve never attended Fashion Week as press, nor have I ever attended a fashion show, period!

This youtube clip was too good to pass up, nonetheless-

As it gives one a sense of the talent which Libertin Louison, creator of Technique Indiscrète– possesses.

The recent Elements Showcase brought his fragrance line to my attention- and Miriam Driot, representative of the line- was extremely helpful and warm.

All of the fragrances I sampled [and I truly sampled them all, giving each one considerable attention!] were excellently composed.

I wish I had had the opportunity of meeting Monsieur Louison, because his background is equally intriguing.

Libertin Louison was born in Anvers, Belgium 36 years ago, to an Anversoise mother and a French father of Russian / Polish Jewish descent.

Both parents’ backgrounds colored his perceptions and sensibilities.

From his mother, he learned discipline, hard work, and love of country; from his father, a fanciful imagination; from his father’s mother, deep respect and tolerance for people from every walk of life.

He finished his studies at barely 22 years old and left for Paris, where he spent the next ten years.

And what ten years!

He studied fashion design at l’Académie des Beaux- Arts, after two years he then worked under Martin Margiela, all the while earning a pittance while dressing models for shows.

He lived in the Jewish textile quarter, where every evening, he observed Chinese neighbors rifling through the trash for scraps of fabric.

This inspired him to do the same, searching for pieces of jersey, which he sewed into patchwork T shirts- they soon sold like hotcakes.

Working day and night, Louison finally opened his own boutique/ atelier in 1996, which was frequented predominantly by very affluent Japanese clientele.

Louison realized a dream-creating truly unisex and women’s fashion!

When a press rep from Lolita Lempicka recommended Louison give a showing [he was broke at the time] , he staged a fashion show in the street, three times!

This led to his meeting Pierre Levy of YSL-

Who saw to it that Louison had a structured collection and showrooms in Milan and Paris within the year.

2003 was a pivotal year; Louison’s father passed away, and he felt the desire to return home to Belgium and regroup.

During this hiatus, he sold everything in Paris, and opened a boutique in Bruxelles.

He applied to in Paris and studied perfumery with a passion.

In 2008, he launched his line Technique Indiscrète, inspired by his parfum Indiscrète.

In March of 2011, Louison created a lavender-based cologne “For Them “-

From which 100% of the profits were to go to Japan‘s village of Minami Sanriku, post-tsunami devastation.

The use of the tag “Libertin Louison” is a nod to his fashion label.

His full name is Louison Grajcar.

So, perfume.

I was able to sniff all seven at Elements, under Miriam’s gentle direction.

Each has a story which accompanies the scent- just they way I like it 😉

Some of the notes listed sound fanciful- clearly, these fragrances combine both naturals and aromachemicals, as no botanical ‘apple cake’ exists.

Notes named soft wood, caramel vanilla, chypre accent, and blue lily of the valley make me scratch my head.

Never mind- the end result is tremendously satisfying, regardless of mysterious elements.

Indiscrète

Notes:

Bergamot, fruits from the orchard, mandarine

Rose, jasmine, tuberose

White musk, soft wood, caramel vanilla, chypre accent

My impressions are those of open spaces, clean, playful liveliness.

When the copy says”freshly washed linens”, they really mean it.

Airy, delicately fruity, with gently floral wisps and a peaceful drydown…

If this perfume were a tempo, it would be allegretto.

Veloutine

Notes:

Feuille de violette, fruits rouges

Fleur de violette, rose

Leather, musc, salicylates

Believe it or not, the late Dame Barbara Cartland was the inspiration for this heady rose / violet fragrance.

Velvety, éblouissant, over-the-top, larger than life.

This would be the Auntie Mame of Lipstick Rose, in a wonderful way.

This is as romantic as it gets, for rose-violet lovers- it’s gorgeous.

Paname Paname

Notes:

Bergamot, green mandarin, cumin

Jasmin, lotus, apple cake

Vetiver, moss, white musk, amber, chypre accent

Alas, this sample was missing in my little packet! [Apparently, it is very well-liked in Paris.]

It was one of my favorites, so I will have to go by my olfactory memory on this one.

I remember finding this parfum to be classically seductive, in the finest Gallic fashion –

Earthy smoky base, lush citrus topnotes seasoned liberally with cumin, and a vibrant floral heart, deftly spiced.

This scent is one to watch, and to own.

Plaisir d’ Amour

Notes:

Bergamot, kumquat

Jasmin, fleur d’oranger, rose, blue lily of the valley

Vetiver, patchouli, musc, oak moss, chypre accent

Plaisir d’amour ne dure qu’un moment;

Chagrin d’amour dure toute la vie…

So says the old song.

This parfum is modern, elegant, and enveloping, a very sensual floral chypre.

The base is like brocade, it is so textured and delightfully dense; the heart is unabashedly, unapologetically floral.

The piquancy of kumquat anoints the skin with effervescence.

I have no idea what is meant by “blue lily of the valley”- and I don’t care.

You won’t, either.

It doesn’t matter; this beauty is as lovely as any Crepe de Chine-type floral chypre.

Santa Subita

Notes:

Bergamot, lemon, orange

Cedar, patchouli, sandalwood

Benzoin, tree moss, vanilla, musk

The name suggests to me: suddenly sacred.

Inspired by icons and incense, this perfume bridges the voluptuous and spiritual, a very tenacious and rich woody oriental in character.

I can visualize Santa Subita being extremely comforting and strengthening, by turns.

It is pillowy and plush, never severe or astringent; one could swear that opoponax was lurking in there, unnamed.

If you adore Shalimar as I do, then I think this may be your next desire…

Oh my.

Safran Nobile

Notes:

Lemon, orange

Cardamom, anise, jasmine, saffron

Benzoin, patchouli, vanilla

Bollywood- ready beauties in wedding-worthy sari inspired Louison, and you can smell it immediately.

Copy tells us that “little by little, like a butterfly she leaves her cocoon to reveal a graceful and giving woman”..

I can’t top THAT!

What I can reveal is that the saffron never waxes medicinal, although its presence is felt throughout the alchemical interweaving of notes.

Jasmine and saffron are old friends; they adore one another, and are thrilled to welcome anise and cardamom into their charmed circle.

Benzoin, patchouli, vanilla- more seductive bedfellows for our late afternoon détente.

You might need a fan- perhaps several-

And some of those magnificent young men to go with them.

This is going to heat up some cold winter’s nights, I am certain of it.

Délivre Moi

Notes:

Anise, eucalyptus

Geranium, heliotrope, jasmine

Almond, cypress, honey, musk

Of all seven, this is the most potent- and I feel, polarizing.

If you are smitten with L’Heure Bleue in extrait form, then you will swoon over Délivre Moi, beyond a doubt.

One can be animalic without civet; honey is one puissant floral-scented animalic, and when coupled with cypress, you feel as if you’re drinking retsina, that resinous Hellenic marvel.

Almond and heliotrope feel like kissing cousins, with anise following closely on their heels.

The tonic addition of a touch of eucalyptus is an intuitive counterpoint to put you off center [which is what ‘eccentric’ was meant to be!]; geranium balances with its tart, rosy-floral edge, occasionally mint-tinted.

These notes accent the intense warmth and enveloping nature of this scent.

Louison’s conception was a woman who is so giving, so reassuring, that one finds it difficult to detach- but he feels that these qualities mask her secret, and the belief is that secrets are very alluring indeed.

Herein lies the issue: will you feel cosseted, or suffocated?

A magnificent, bold scented statement of grand stature is this.

Dosage is all-important, whether you adore it or disdain it.

Too much, and you will wish you hadn’t, so please, be judicious in application.

What can be heavenly might prove to be headache-inducing if you overdo.

I firmly feel that everyone ought to give this a sniff, just because.

Well, my friends, I think you can surmise which ones I prefer.

I feel that all seven in the line are very well- executed, and that there is certainly something for everyone.( Editors note: you may remember we were the first to write about Cologne for Them created for the Japanese people during the tsunami)

–Ida Meister, Senior Editor

Senior Editor’s Note:

Did I forget?

There are scented candles, scented teas, floral waters…

Many delights available online… http://www.techniqueindiscrete.com/

Art Direction: Michelyn Camen EIC- Art by Argentine Artist Raul Soldi (1905-1994)

As of September 2011, beautyhabit.com will be the first to carry Technique Indiscrète in the USA

There are two draw prizes

One commentor will receive the perfume of his or her choice.

One commentor will receive the sample pack.

To be eligible for reader’s choice: please leave a comment on the fragrance you would like to try and in your own words what couture and fine fragrance share in terms of beauty and quality.FOR YOUR COMMENT TO COUNT TWICE MATCH A COUTURE ENSEMBLE WITH THE FRAGRANCE OF YOUR CHOICE

For the sample pack, name the fragrance you might like and something that you found interesting in this article. Draw ends September 2, 2011 EST

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20 comments

  • Claudia says:

    Well if i have to choose one i would definitely choose Veloutine, i tried a sample and it smells beautiful on my skin. Fine Fragrance and Couture in my opinion share workmanship, originality of a unique design and superb materials of the finest quality used in the end products. Bird by Juicy Couture has a Leather Tie-Waist Dress that i would pair with the Veloutine fragrance.

  • Jules says:

    I think most women seldom feel completely dressed without that final spritz of perfume as the final touch to their couture. Hence the link between couture and fragrance really is undeniable, they go hand in hand. I also believe they add beauty to one another. Being more together than each alone. (Though a naked woman wearing just fragrance is no less beautiful ;o)
    As what I found most interesting about the article is actually the introduction to Louison Grajcar & “Libertin Louison”, who I’m embarrassed to say I’d never heard of before. (Let alone Technique Indiscrète ! ~ So thank you Ida !!) ~ I believe the fragrance I’d most like is probably “Santa Subita” , or perhaps “Safran Nobile”. (Though the name & notes of “Délivre Moi”, & the way that you’ve described it, have intrigued me.)

  • Jules says:

    … Ah, my couture ensemble would be : Alexander McQueen’s 2010 Spring Ready-to-Wear Collection, with CdG “Odeur 71”. (Though if on a different mood they’d beautifully match T.Ford’s “Black Orchid” too.)

  • Alica says:

    I would like to try the couture ensemble Delivre Moi – very challenging composition. Be it man or woman, elegant dress and high quality gets together like puzzle, I cannot imagine cheap perfume with elegant outfit and vice versa. I found Libertin’s roots and childhood very interesting, the gene mixture gave him that proper basis for being extraordinary and creative.

  • Isa says:

    Thanks for giving us to know these promising perfumes!

    For the sample pack I would choose Veloutine, Paname Paname, Santa Subita or Safran Nobile.
    And Santa Subita would be my pick if I won the bottle.

    I think that couture and fragrance are wonderful when done with passion and freedom, with free artists, good materials, great artistry and imagination.

  • Isa says:

    I forgot to say that one thing that I found really interesting in this article was that Ida doesn’t care a lot for fashion! Just like me! LOL

    And pictures have been a pleasure to see too.

  • Michelyn Camen says:

    we are so excited to review entire line. i was fascinated by m. louison’s determination in becoming both a haute couture designer and a perfumer. Fashion and fragrance share many things, here it is combined by the vision the artist. I loved the video and many of the ensembles exemplify that. My favorite perfume sounds like both plasirs d’amour and indescet. what better than to wear it with Libertin Louisin’s own fashion!!! Especially the black turtlenceck dress with chainmail belt or the back less black dress with the feathery collar

  • chayaruchama says:

    Oh, Isa – you tease !

    I view fashion as art- sometimes wearable and affordable ;-0
    But I never enjoy being told that I “must wear” or ” must do ” .
    I like to apply what suits, and pass on what doesn’t…

    there are so many ways to be and feel beautiful; isn’t that wonderful ? !

  • Holly F. says:

    I find it interesting that Libertin Louison staged fashion shows in the street, and wish I had been there to see them. Délivre Moi would be my choice, I would love the softness of almond and heliotrope enveloping me, like the softness of Givenchy Fall Couture 2012 Collection.

  • sara says:

    I would love to try Delivre Moi. What a great article. I loved the peplumed skirts suits of Chanel F2011-2012. I would wear the raspberry and black one with Caron Tabac Blond.

  • Barbara says:

    I’d like to try Paname Paname. It’s got all my favorites-jasmin, white musk, vetviver..aahh! Couture and fragrance, it’s all about the sum of the total, who do you want to be, what do you want them to see. I love the high and low. I’ll never forget Sharon Stone at the Oscars when she wore an Oscar de la Renta skirt and a Gap white shirt. I hope she was wearing something like L’Etat Libre d’Orange’s Jasmin et Cigarettes.

    I’d like to try Plaisir d’Amour, just the sound, smell of it. I love that he not only created something for the village in Japan but gave them all of the profits. bien fait.

    Just a note “blue lily of the valley” I think is what the anglo world calls “bluebells”

  • Asali says:

    Oh, Ida, you made all of them sound absolutely gorgeous, I really have to test several, Paname Paname, Santa Subita, but since I love saffron, Safran Nobile is my perfume of choice from Technique Indiscrète. It also happens to be the only one I’ve tested, and it’s to die for. Love it <3
    The feeling a perfume can give you, that you can feel better than your self, closer to yourself, is something I think it has in common with couture. I'm sure, although this is untested, that the feeling of a couture piece, even just the thought of it hanging in the closet for you to wear whenever you like, can give you a feeling of extravaganza in you everyday life, the same way a loved perfume can. Besides, I'm sure it shares the quality of material, couture made of the best textiles and materials, surely is to compare with those high quality natural and synthetic raw materials used in haute parfumerie, as opposed to high street clothes and scents. Oh and I'll take that stunning Stephane Rolland saffron yellow knee-long dress, with the amazing draped back to go with the Safron Nobile 🙂
    Thanks for the dream… and for the dream draw.

  • Felicia G says:

    Ok this is a great question. Couture is an art and interpretation of wearable thought projestion that is materialized by fabric. Scent, much the same from a visionary and artistic point of veiw is an invisible art and a projestion of experience thought and passion. This makes me think of the emporers new clothes. The emporer was interested in the couture of the day and was selfish about it and his tailor taught him a lesson marching him nude through town. I see art fashiona dn scent as a family. Each one complimenting the other and no one hopefully being greater than the sum of all the parts. I am also a fashion hound. I am not limited by my imagination or desire but by my wallet as I am sure I am not alone there:) I feel that the best pairing for the Paname Paname would be a corset from Vivianne Westwood or a pair of silk undies from Dolce Gabbanna. A pair of my own a floral silk pair come to my mind little black bow on the behind to leave a signature only to be seen by the one you want to show it too. Because scent is so personal and so close to your skin, I caompare it mostly to couture lingerie I see the high fashion undergarments those of La Perla, with white Wolford thigh highs with the seem in the back. Am I off topic? I hope not I can get carried away easily.
    Couture and fragrence are also intertwined due to avialability. Not everyone can afford the opportunity in clothing or scent so when you have the chance to feel either on your body you need to relish and cherish that. For me, its a high like a drug. Been that way since the first time I saw my mother look like Jerry Hall ( Oscar D Luarenta silk emerald green one piece keyhole front showing just a tiny bit of cleavage no bra) and smell like heaven (shalimar actually) with platform shoes that looked like they were made from metal strappy and stories high (Yves St Laurant) .
    Thank u guys as always:) xo

  • Lyubov says:

    Ida is a Master! Thank you a great deal!
    I have only glimpsed some of the Libertin’s fashion creations on FTV but didn’t expected there is much more to them. The reviews sound so precise and abundant that I wish I could test all the aromas! At once! But there is one I wil inevitably like – Veloutine (I love both roses and violets), and one I crave to sample – Delivre Moi (bizarre combination of notes – hard to resist!!!)!
    Not all fashion is Haute Couture, and not all Haoute Couture is fashionable. Neither is good, nor bad, because I treat Haute Couture as art. And art is beyond time and every-day desire. So is perfume. The connection between Haute Couture and Perfume is a must. McQueen, Westwood, Lagerfeld, Valentino and Gaultier proved it, and the bond should be strengthened by the newcomers like Louison!
    I was pleased to learn that For Them helped the post-tsunami sufferers this year! Good initiative! Well done, Libertin! Good for the presentation in CaFleureBon, too!
    The last but not the least I would spray Indescrete all over this summer’s collection of Ralph Lauren – white, cotton lace, indian leather belts and jackets, silver buckles and jewels, air-light dresses and flouncy skirts!
    Thanks for the generous draw!

  • brigitte says:

    Couture and fine fragrances go hand in hand! A woman is not”fully dressed” until she is enveloped in a fine fragrance! I would love the sample pack or the intriguing Deilvre Moi, as I am a big fan of L’Heure Bleue.

  • Warum says:

    I’d love to win a sample pack, and no doubt that if I were a lucky winner, I will tear into the envelope to get into Plaisir d’Amour first and foremost! This one sounds right up my alley.

    The entire article was very interesting, since it introduced to me perfumes I haven’t heard of, but what I found especially helpful is the comparisons with the old classics.

  • Kathryn says:

    Oh my, Ida and Michelyn, the places this blog takes me. The description of Libertin Louison scavenging patchwork fabrics early in his career piqued my curiosity to find out more about his work. This took me on a web journey to the late 19th and early 20th century couturier Jeanne Pacquin, a genius at combining materials and textures. Louison is now engaged in reviving and reinventing the House of Pacquin, not only showing his respect for the past but also making a daring promise to the future.

    On myfashionbank.com/articles/article32.html I saw a strikingly cut, extraordinarily intricate, multi-textured, off-white dresses by Jeanne Pacquin that could easily be worn today, a century later, if one were so lucky to be able do so. For this dress, I would choose Paname Paname since both dress and perfume are “classically seductive, in the finest Gallic fashion.”

    What do couture and perfume have in common? They are both wearable forms of art that allow the wearer to be a participant in the art form rather than a mere observer. But beyond that, at the highest levels, both perfume and couture rely on respect and curious inquiry into many things, including the nature of materials, quality of craftsmanship, and the resonance of culture and history. In this light, I would choose Santa Subita as an entry for the samples, in the impossible hope that wearing such art might suddenly introduce one to the sacred.

  • Sibirinka says:

    I would love to try Veloutine. I was obsessed with Paris lately and roses + violets sound heavenly ti me.

    couture and fine fragrance share everything in terms of beauty and quality, if you ask me, they both only make sense if they’re both excuisitely beautiful and well made… and wonderful to wear. otherwise their existance is questionable 🙂 and if done well, you reach the unimaginable when hey touch your skin…

    patchwork t-shirts sound definitely like something i would wear. how creative!

  • Cynthia says:

    They all sound lovely as you describe them, Ida, so I would love to win the sample pack. But I think the Safran Nobile sounds the most interesting to me.

    I was most impressed with the description of Louison’s 10 year “apprenticeship”. I guess what amazes me about creative types is their fearlessness. They just do, and create, seemingly with no fear of failure. He sounds like an interesting young man.