Daniel Craig as James Bond might wear Rogue Perfumery Bon Monsieur (Promo shot Spectre 2015)
“A gentleman is never rude—except on purpose.” — Christopher Hutchins
It is at once ironic and perfectly appropriate that one can respect the rules of classical perfumery by breaking them. The aptly-named Rogue Perfumery draws a sword to modern regulations to protect the integrity of olfactive heritage—and the result is wickedly spectacular.
Manuel Cross of Rogue Perfumery Image Courtesy Manuel Cross
Earlier this year, in the CaFleureBon Profiles in American Perfumery Series culinary chef-cum-perfumer Manuel Cross, founder of Rogue Perfumery, shared with readers that he draws inspiration from classical perfumery, the bubbling pots in his kitchen, his and his family’s cultural roots and his love of music. One need only experience his beautiful Chypre Siam—with its opening blast of Kaffir Lime and Basil orbiting a time-honored chypre base—to celebrate this glorious unification.
Rogue Perfumery Chypre Siam, Mousse Illuminee, Bon Monsieur and Vetifleur © Manuel Cross
Already a huge fan of Mr. Cross’ work, particularly Mousse Illuminee, Chypre Siam, and Fougere L’Aube, I was excited to learn of the 2020 release of Bon Monsieur. Described as “a fragrance of pure nostalgia,” this ode to the great fougeres of the 1980’s (à la Drakkar Noir, Tsar, Carlo Corinto and Duc de Vervins) is his greatest work to date. While Bon Monsieur playfully, yet respectfully, draws inspiration from bygone powerhouses (many of which have been reformulated to abide by IFRA regulations), the fearless “Cross-ness” of the composition separates Rogue Perfumery Bon Monsieur from the fragrances it emblematizes. As in the culinary world, a successful recipe is predicated on the quality of its ingredients and it’s clear that this rogue perfumer’s risks have paid off. It’s also clear that Mr. Cross must have been a hell of a chef.
James Bond relaxing on the set of Dr. No 1962 still
Bon Monsieur unfolds in distinct measure, respecting the perennial triumvirate of bergamot, lavender and oakmoss, modernized by deft and clever additions of geranium, fir balsam, carnation, lily of the valley, cedar, sandalwood, patchouli and musk. The bergamot is bright, blithe and distinct while the lavender is sumptuous, refined and expensive-smelling. In lesser hands, the composition might have come off as too starched or humorless, but Mr. Cross’ choice of ingredients, particularly a silky sandalwood accord that ribbons throughout, softens every edge. A gorgeous patchouli note forms a warm, approachable base. The affair is sophisticated, yet spirited. It’s adventurous and elegant, yet surprisingly relaxed—like James Bond on his day off. I’ll be the first to say that perfume is genderless, but Rogue Perfumery Bon Monsieur is unabashedly a gentleman’s fragrance. Moreover, it’s a fragrance that a gentleman would want others, perhaps his children, to associate with him. At a very reasonable $85.00 for a 30ml bottle or $156.00 for a 75ml bottle, it’s easy to make Bon Monsieur a signature fragrance while supporting small-batch, American-made artisanal perfume. Visit Rogue Perfumery to purchase.
Bon Monsieur is an Eau de Toilette with 10-12 hour longevity and moderate, tasteful projection.
Notes: Lavender, Bergamot, Fir Balsam, Geranium, Oakmoss, Carnation, Lily of the Valley, Cedar, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Musk
I own my own sample, and the opinions are my own
–Michael Devine, Contributor
Rogue Perfumery Bon Monsieur Courtesy Rogue Perfumery Instagram
Thanks to Manuel Cross of Rogue Perfumery, we have a draw for a 50 ml bottle of Rogue Perfumery Bon Soir. To be eligible you must be a registered reader (register here) in the USA and EU, you must be registered or your comment will not count. Please leave a comment with what you enjoyed about Michael’s review, where you live and your favorite James Bond/or Rogue Perfume. Draw closes 10/26/2021
All photos belong to Manuel Cross unless otherwise noted
Please read Sr. Editor Lauryn’ Beer’s reviews of Rogue Perfumery Tuberose and Moss, Jasmin Antique and Chypre-Siam
Deputy Editor Ida Meister reviewed Vetifleur here
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