Le Galion Jasmin (Rodrigo Flores-Roux) 2020+ Behind the Bottle with Rodrigo Flores-Roux Draw

 

Le Galion JASMIN

Le Galion Jasmin 2020, photos by Le Galion

When it was offered me to try the updated Le Galion Jasmin I leapt at the opportunity, especially when I found out that the  perfumer involved was Monsieur Rodrigo Flores-Roux – and that this fragrance held a special place in his heart. He (like myself) possesses a carefully protected vintage flacon which was his compass as he went about the process of reinterpreting it. As we are well aware, times and tastes have changed, and the IFRA regulations are very clear regarding which materials and concentrations are permissible; this presents its own challenge. How to remain true to the initial concept while infusing new life and expansivity into a cherished perfume?

 

Vintage Le Galion Jasmin 1940

Ida’s Le Galion Jasmin 2020 and her Vintage flacon

Before we delve into the above topic I’d like to provide a little context, if I may. Those of you ‘of a certain age’ might view the house of Le Galion with a measure of nostalgia. Many mothers and grandmothers, great-aunts wafted the famed Sortilège (translated as spell or sorcery), the vintage of which reveals a sophisticated, sparkling aldehydic multifloral with a growling animalic undercarriage. It suited my filmstar-stunning mother to a T; I keep several bottles on hand so that I may summon her at will. There is, however – much more to Le Galion than initially meets the eye.

Paul Vacher Le Galion 1946

Paul Vacher composed Jasmin in 1937, via Le Galion

Renowned Master Perfumer Paul Vacher (of Lanvin and Dior fame. He created Arpège, Rumeur and Scandal; Diorling and Miss Dior!) took the helm of Prince Murat’s established house in 1930, and from 1930-1980 Le Galion’s successes were legion.

 

Nicolas Chabot of Le Galion

Nicolas Chabot (Photo: Sylvie Mafray)

Unfortunately, after Vacher’s passing the company was sold to an American concern and it collapsed – until 2014 when it was resurrected by Creative Director Nicolas Chabot (also of Aether and Corps Volatilis). Seventeen classic original fragrances were redeveloped; since then, nine others have been added to the roster. I have smelt a good many of them (both vintage and new) and can heartily attest to their quality. In addition to Rodrigo Flores-Roux, other perfumers called into play are Jean-Christophe Hérault, Vanina Muracciole, Quentin Bisch!!!(Tileul), Domitille Michalon-Bertier, David Maruitte and Thomas Fontaine.

 

Rodrigo Flores Roux of Givaudan

Rodrigo Flores-Roux smelling Jasminum officinale in Easter, also in Berlin in 2019  courtesy of the perfumer

I’ve searched for the notes for the original 1937 Jasmin and thanks to Master Perfumer Rodrigo Flores Roux, I now have them: “jasmine absolute overdose, ylang ylang, orange flower, lilac, tuberose, narcissus, musk, vetiver, sandalwood, moss, cedarwood and red fruit notes, orange essence Sweet Guinea. I would characterize it (vintage) as a no-holds-barred, full-bodied fruity jasmine with an animalic presence. It is by no means a lilting innocent aroma; the base is dark, rich, woody/mossy and very long lasting. The format I have is parfum, so it is more intense than the cologne, eau de toilette or parfum de toilette forms in which it is available (on websites selling vintage fragrances). It would be easily worn by any gender successfully.

Monsieur Flores-Roux’s rendition is a much brighter one with a self-assured personality: solar, saline, glowing full-sunshine-by-the-edge-of-the-sea. It’s ebulliently floral with nearly as much green as gold. The overdosed fruity jasmine sambac is amplified by eau de brouts, a petitgrain water absolute distilled from the leaves and green twigs of the bitter orange which is potent; it contributes a naturalness to jasmine and orange blossom notes. Ylang ylang, with its buttery banana-like indolic sweetness provides yet another layer of exoticism, and is joined by the beauty of the lily. Guinean orange adds an undeniable freshness to the composition, aided by the limpidity of cyclamen and a complementary sea spray accord, underscoring Jasmin with ozone. For frank animalic tones, cumin and narcissus work brilliantly; you can’t miss them. They get under your skin. As for verdancy, it abounds in the form of grassy vetiver, cool oakmoss and dry, hay-and-tobacco leather-kissed mate. A youthful worldliness is suggested by the touch of plum and an insinuated airy leather accord (the latter is a total mystery to me). The first scintillating spritz of Le Galion Jasmin sings of unbridled abandon: sunkissed skin, the wind ruffling through your hair, restless feet fairly itching to dance. It is an intoxicating debut that segues into an elegant, enigmatic phase which smells profoundly floral, both bright and dark simultaneously. A powerhouse floral chypre (as opposed to strict soliflore), Le Galion Jasmin 2020 is a force with remarkable tenacity and a pronounced contemporary feel. I’m thrilled with my flacon (chic, fluted columnar) and the gorgeous jus it encases. This is a fresher relative of Paul Vacher’s original fragrance: relevant, contemporized and simply beautiful.

Notes: eau de brouts absolute, wild cyclamen, sea spray accord, Orange Essence Sweet Guinea , cumin, overdose of jasmin sambac “Imperial’ and “Vintage” absolutes, ylang ylang, narcissus absolute, lily, patchouli, vetiver, oakmoss, mate absolute, plum, atmospheric leather accord

–Ida Meister, Deputy Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor

My cherished bottle was kindly provided by Nicolas Chabot – merci mille fois!  My nose is my own…

 

Rodrigo Flores Roux

Behind the Bottle With Rodrigo Flores-Roux (Irving Penn, Girl Behind Bottle New York 1949 and Rodrigo Flores-Roux collage) 

“Nicolas Chabot agreed with me that I ‘should try to give Le Galion Jasmin a second breath’. Since my teenage years, I was familiar with the original 1950’s version, as it was once popular in Mexico. My English grammar teacher wore it and I loved it on her. She gave me a small purse flacon of it, which I still keep! I always found an intriguing fruity but horselike quality in it, which I later deciphered as a “Jasmin absolue benzol” nuance. This specific quality of jasmine absolute, now defunct, boasts a really intense, unctuous fruity note, something like the aroma of red fruit jelly on steroids. 

I had very specific information about Paul Vacher’s original formula, but I wanted to give it an electric jolt. While I kept the enormous floral richness given by Egyptian jasmine, enriched by touches of narcissus (very ‘on trend’ now) and tuberose, I expanded the heart with a luscious lily note with more modern “muguet” aspects. The strawberry reference of benzol jasmine was also exacerbated. However, I was loathe on making a gourmand perfume (I am always suspicious of that family… sorry…) so the small woody chypre nucleus that Vacher had originally sneaked in gave me the opportunity of opposing this almost numbing floral heart to an elegant Parisian chypre chicness. The result could have been a bit uptight. It was then, almost by accident, that I added a marine accord, overdosing a floralozone-cetonal duo, that did the trick. The woody iris like qualities of cetonal, allowed it to replace the traditional role that methyl ionones play in elegant chypre floral structures. Its ambergris qualities also hinted at the opportunity of spotlighting more of the animalic character, so a healthy heap of indol and lactoscatone were added. Lastly, in order to maintain the lush, wet freshness on top, a rather bitter “gardenia leaf” note made its presence, with a touch of grapefruit peel tanginess. I’d call Le Galion Jasmin a bit overreaching and hyper present, “irresponsible” restoration at its BEST. For its fans, it’s like catnip to cats!“. –Rodrigo Flores-Roux

 

Our thanks to Rodrigo Flores Roux, Vice President, Perfumery Givaudan for his invaluable insights and  sharing his creative process.

Le Galion JASMIN 2020 review

Ida’s bottle of Jasmin Le Galion 2020 photo by Ida©

Thanks to the generosity of Nicolas Chabot, we have a 100 ml bottle of Le Galion Jasmin to give away to one registered reader in the U.S. or Europe. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what appeals to you about Le Galion Jasmin based on Ida’s review, what you learned from Rodrigo Flores-Roux’s “Behind the Bottle” and where you live. Have you had opportunity to try any Le Galion perfumes? Draw closes 3/13/2021

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53 comments

  • drjedi says:

    It was interesting to read Ida’s review of Le Galion Jasmin after the previous one by Lauryn Beer on Marie Jeanne Jasmin Patchouli. While the latter seemed like a simple, beautiful fragrance, per Lauryn’s review of Marie Jeanne Jasmin Patchouli, Le Galion Jasmin seems to me like a complex, deep perfume (and beautiful). They both have patchouli and jasmine notes, but Le Galion Jasmin seems more complex, with a number of other notes. Like Rodrigo Flores-Roux, I am not a big fan of gourmand fragrances – maybe I have not experienced a great one yet, or I prefer eating food-smelling things instead 🙂 I have not had a chance to try Le Galion perfumes, yet. From Ida’s review, Le Galion Jasmin seems a very bright, cheerful perfume, perfect for the upcoming spring weather. My catty nature would love to try this catnip for humans. Thanks for the review and a generous draw. Writing from USA.

  • NiceVULady says:

    I’m so glad this is not a gourmand. That is not to say that I dislike them, but that there is a time and place for them. This sounds like a deliciously complex fragrance from a master perfumer. The use of lily is intriguing. Many thanks to Ida for another wonder review and many thanks to Nicolas Chabot for making this draw possible. I’ m in the USA.

  • zhiang0113 says:

    I really loved how the story of Le Galion’s Jasmin came full circle – starting from M. Flores-Roux’s olfactory encounter with the original composition as a child, and coming to the present where he reinterpreted Jasmin!

    From Ida’s review, the joyful, carefree opening giving way to something more deep and sensual sounds like a wonderful representation of jasmine – that is precisely what I enjoy about the flower, how you need to get to know it well before it reveals its true nature.

    I have tried several of Le Galion’s fragrances including Cologne and Vetyver, which I enjoyed, but have yet to sample the new launches yet due to the pandemic. I have been eagerly anticipating the end of the lockdown so that I could visit Liberty London to try them out, so I’m really thankful for having this opportunity to experience Jasmin! I live in the UK, and thank you to Cafleurebon and Le Galion for hosting the giveaway!

  • bagcd2 says:

    Appealing lead into that it is a power house version of Le Galion Jasmin.I have not been lucky enough to try this fragrance. It was interesting to learn that this is a beautiful take on the original from 1950.

    USA

  • Trinity33 says:

    Re-imagining vintage perfumes in this age of stricter regulations is always an interesting proposition. The original Le Galion Jasmine sounds like a femme fatale powerhouse and I love the ingredient, jasmine absolute overdose. The 2020 version sounds brighter and warmer with the addition of the solar, saline and green notes. Rodrigo description of adding an electric jolt to the original formula brings it into the modern era. I’ve never had the pleasure of trying any Le Galion perfumes but would love to try Le Galion Jasmin 2020. Commenting from MD, USA.

  • rphawks says:

    Wow- this reinterpretation (or resurrection) seems like one hell of a journey. As some commenters have pointed out, I am on board with doubting gourmands (smelling like food is tricky business). Jasmine I think is one of those universal smells that could be reinterpreted thousands of times. Jasmin seems like a serious and dedication-filled attempt, and I would certainly like to try it. I have not tried any Le Galion perfumes. USA based.

  • AleksCipri says:

    Very interesting! I appreciate the intro and a bit of history and context since unfortunately I didn’t really know about Le Galion before. I really like the description of Jasmin by Ida. I love the floral opening with really nice vetiver-tobacco-oakmoss-leather dry down. My kind of notes for sure. I’m from Illinois, US

  • Dubaiscents says:

    I love to hear about recreations of vintage scents that really work! And I would always trust Ida to let us know if they didn’t. I haven’t smelled either version of this Le Galion scent but I was fortunate enough to smell several of them in Dubai. They seem more difficult to get here in the US which is a shame because I enjoy so many of them, especially Sortilege. Thank you to Mr. Rodrigo Flores-Roux’s behind the scenes take on creating this scent. I really enjoyed understanding what he tweaked and why. I wish more houses would be open like this. Thank you for the draw. US

  • flosolentia says:

    Yes, this is often a sad reality, when a fragrance is reformulated beyond recognition and there is no trace of the former rfagrance, there are rare exceptions when a perfume is transformed into something beautiful and completely new. I think these words are about this jasmine. It was very interesting for me to read this article, because I am always curious about how the scent changes over time, what becomes the cornerstone in the formula, which changes the perception and projection of the scent.
    It is also very interesting to learn about the process of creation and the logic of the perfumer himself! Rodrigo Flores-Roux did a great job! Thank you, Ida for such an educative article.

    Germany

  • Mandys64 says:

    What appeals to me is that jasmin seems to be a fragrance that takes the best of two differents era. The incompromising vintage formula with touch of lightness for a more contemporary feeling.
    What I admire from the “behind the bottle” is the creative process of fragrance making. That for a short moment we have entered his thought. To be able to see how each notes, ingredients are used and can be balanced with others is a true gift.
    From France.

  • Jos says:

    Loved the intro and the background information. Very interested in the Egyptian jasmine, enriched by touches of narcissus (very ‘on trend’ now) and tuberose. I haven’t yet had the opportunity to try any of Le Galion perfumes. Living in the EU

  • Amaziz89 says:

    Monsieur Flores-Roux’s rendition is a much brighter one with a self-assured personality: solar, saline, glowing full-sunshine-by-the-edge-of-the-sea. It’s ebulliently floral with nearly as much green as gold. The overdosed fruity jasmine sambac is amplified by eau de brouts, a petitgrain water absolute distilled from the leaves and green twigs of the bitter orange which is potent; it contributes a naturalness to jasmine and orange blossom notes. Ylang ylang, with its buttery banana-like indolic sweetness provides yet another layer of exoticism, and is joined by the beauty of the lily. Guinean orange – another name for bergamot orange – adds an undeniable freshness to the composition, aided by the limpidity of cyclamen and a complementary sea spray accord, underscoring Jasmin with ozone. For frank animalic tones, cumin and narcissus work brilliantly; you can’t miss them. They get under your skin. As for verdancy, it abounds in the form of grassy vetiver, cool oakmoss and dry, hay-and-tobacco leather-kissed mate. A youthful worldliness is suggested by the touch of plum and an insinuated airy leather accord (the latter is a total mystery to me). The first scintillating spritz of Le Galion Jasmin sings of unbridled abandon: sunkissed skin, the wind ruffling through your hair, restless feet fairly itching to dance. It is an intoxicating debut that segues into an elegant, enigmatic phase which smells profoundly floral, both bright and dark simultaneously. A powerhouse floral chypre (as opposed to strict soliflore), Le Galion Jasmin 2020 is a force with remarkable tenacity and a pronounced contemporary feel. I’m thrilled with my flacon (chic, fluted columnar) and the gorgeous jus it encases. This is a fresher relative of Paul Vacher’s original fragrance: relevant, contemporized and simply beautiful.

    Notes: eau de brouts absolute, wild cyclamen, sea spray accord, Guinean orange, cumin, overdose of jasmin sambac “Imperial’ and “Vintage” absolutes, ylang ylang, narcissus absolute, lily, patchouli, vetiver, oakmoss, mate absolute, plum, atmospheric leather accord. I am intrigued by the notes especially cumin, jasmine Sambac and Patchouli. A beautiful description by Ida this sounds like a fragrance for Spring. My favourite from this house is Vetyver. Thanks a million from the United Kingdom

  • Ozzyaziz says:

    Nicolas Chabot agreed with me that I ‘should try to give Le Galion Jasmin a second breath’. Since my teenage years, I was familiar with the original 1950’s version, as it was once popular in Mexico. My English grammar teacher wore it and I loved it on her. She gave me a small purse flacon of it, which I still keep! I always found an intriguing fruity but horselike quality in it, which I later deciphered as a “Jasmin absolue benzol” nuance. This specific quality of jasmine absolute, now defunct, boasts a really intense, unctuous fruity note, something like the aroma of red fruit jelly on steroids.

    I had very specific information about Paul Vacher’s original formula, but I wanted to give it an electric jolt. While I kept the enormous floral richness given by Egyptian jasmine, enriched by touches of narcissus (very ‘on trend’ now) and tuberose, I expanded the heart with a luscious lily note with more modern “muguet” aspects. The strawberry reference of benzol jasmine was also exacerbated. However, I was loathe on making a gourmand perfume (I am always suspicious of that family… sorry…) so the small woody chypre nucleus that Vacher had originally sneaked in gave me the opportunity of opposing this almost numbing floral heart to an elegant Parisian chypre chicness. The result could have been a bit uptight. It was then, almost by accident, that I added a marine accord, overdosing a floralozone-cetonal duo, that did the trick. The woody iris like qualities of cetonal, allowed it to replace the traditional role that methyl ionones play in elegant chypre floral structures. Its ambergris qualities also hinted at the opportunity of spotlighting more of the animalic character, so a healthy heap of indol and lactoscatone were added. Lastly, in order to maintain the lush, wet freshness on top, a rather bitter “gardenia leaf” note made its presence, with a touch of grapefruit peel tanginess. I’d call Le Galion Jasmin a bit overreaching and hyper present, “irresponsible” restoration at its BEST. For its fans, it’s like catnip to cats!“. –Rodrigo Flores-Roux. An excellent review by Ida and the perfumers take on this sounds like a magical concoction. I am fascinated by the notes especially Jasmine Sambac, Cumin and Patchouli. A house that I am not familiar with I am afraid. Thanks a lot from the UK

  • Constancesuze says:

    Ida’s review puts me in mind of Francoise Sagan’s Bonjour, Tristesse, which is in no way a bad thing. Sounds lovely. And I like RFR’s description of this as an “irresponsible restoration”, it’s a fun way to think of it. I think I tried the original years ago, because my Mom had a collection of vintage glass samples, and we went through testing them together, but they weren’t in great shape. I’m in the US.

  • Princess Anna says:

    I love jasmin. Last year, i bought a small jasmin tree that I keep in my apartment until all the flowers faded and than i planted it in my parents garden in the country side. I’m in a constant search for the perfect jasmin fragrance, one that is able to reproduce it without the plastic scent I found in most perfumes. from the description, Le Galion Jasmin seems quite perfect, considering all the interesting notes, mixed so ingenious. I currently live in Romania.

  • Sorohan Adriana says:

    The enormous floral richness given by Egyptian jasmine, enriched by touches of narcissus (very ‘on trend’ now) and tuberose, I expanded the heart with a luscious lily note with more modern “muguet” aspects touch my soul.
    I am from Eu Bucharest Romania Europe

  • INYA says:

    Jasmine in bloom is intoxicating. As a gardener, I’m amazed at how it’s small white flowers exude such a powerful scent. I’m glad to know that Le Galion has brought back a classic jasmine fragrance. Thanks for another great article and generous draw! Mich USA

  • JulietteC says:

    Le Galion Jasmin seems to be what I call the perfect floral
    Why? Because reading this review makes me realize why I prefer certain florals that rely on the warmth of ylang – like Bois 1920 Comme L’Amore.

    I would love to have the chance to see if here, too, the * , – *.

    Also, I am very, very intrigued by the nuance mentioned by Rodrigo Flores-Roux, respectively jasmin absolue benzol * … , * .

    Thank you for the chance, I live in Europe, Bucharest.

  • JulietteC says:

    Le Galion Jasmin seems to be what I call the perfect floral
    Why? Because reading this review makes me realize why I prefer certain florals that rely on the warmth of ylang – like Bois 1920 Comme L’Amore.

    I would love to have the chance to see if here, too, the “Ylang ylang, with its buttery banana-like indolic sweetness provides yet another layer of exoticism”.

    Also, I am very, very intrigued by the nuance mentioned by Rodrigo Flores-Roux, respectively jasmin absolue benzol “this specific quality of jasmine absolute, now defunct, boasts a really intense, unctuous fruity note”.

    Thank you for the chance, I live in Europe, Bucharest.

  • nathjo says:

    I would love to win Jasmin by Le Galion because I loved 2 Rodrigo’s fragrances for the Arquiste brand, Nanban and Ella. I think he’s undeniably one of the best perfumers in the world. Givaudan didn’t choose him by chance. I’m a guy but I love white flowers: tuberose, gardenia, ylang-ylang, lily, … for jasmine my favorite is Jasmin de Pays de Perris Monte Carlo by Jean-Claude Ellena he’s so photorealistic, sincere, frank and honest, it is a real jasmine without any false note. I would like to know if Rodrigo’s Jasmine is as good as Jasmin de Pays or better. I love when Ida says: “It’s ebulliently floral with nearly as much green as gold” because I love to feel a natural and intense flowering and I also love when she says “Le Galion Jasmin 2020 is a force with remarkable tenacity and a pronounced contemporary feel “because most of the white flower scents I’ve tried have no hold or trail; very low afterglow and no projection.
    I live in France, EU.

  • Shibics says:

    ” it was then, almost by accident, that I added a marine accord, overdosing a floralozone-cetonal duo, that did the trick.” – and that’s how you achieve greatness.
    Ida is lucky to have been able to compare both Jasmins, old and the “restored” one, and to appreciate both perfumers’ works.
    It is a trend now to resuscitate old perfume houses, I see, and try to, both, feed and build on their glory.
    I live in Europe.

  • Susan Smith says:

    What appeals to me with Le Galion Jasmin is I get to compare it to my vintage bottle. Im thrilled to read he tried to keep the same spirit of the vintage with a new twist of sorts. I love big florals and there just isnt many modern big florals on the market. I hope I can try this. Ive tried Jasmin and Snob in the vintage.

  • audesko1 says:

    Such an interesting story about Nicholas and his teacher’s fragrance that he still has. I also loved the way Ida describes the Le Galion Jasmin “The first scintillating spritz of Le Galion Jasmin sings of unbridled abandon: sunkissed skin, the wind ruffling through your hair, restless feet fairly itching to dance. It is an intoxicating debut that segues into an elegant, enigmatic phase which smells profoundly floral, both bright and dark simultaneously. A powerhouse floral chypre ” Beautiful. Thank you for the generous draw. I have not sampled any Le Galion fragrances. USA

  • vickalicious says:

    Great article by Ida! I’d never tried, nor heard of, the original. It was very interesting to learn about the house, and how it is being re-established. This sounds like a wonderful Jasmin-centric fragrance. I would love the opportunity to try Le Galion Jasmin. Located in the US.

  • Isasi says:

    I loved Ida’s tale of the history of the brand, as someone quite young I had no idea of its long history. As for Rodrigo’s side, the idea of rethinking an old essential sounds great to me. It seems as a very rich and complex perfume, which I really appreciate too. I don’t really know if I ever tried one of Le Galion’s perfumes, I think my mother had it in her bathroom for the longest time, but she seems to have forgotten. I’m Itxaso from Spain, EU.

  • Dami C says:

    I enjoyed reading about the history of this fragrance along with Ida’s discovery of the notes in the original version. I haven’t had the chance to try any creations from the line, but comparing these two versions would be a real treat. I enjoyed this beautiful and insightful article, along with the description of the new version as being a sunny and saline chypre, with green and gold nuances. Flore-Roux’s touch really seems to have given this fragrance much spark and energy. I am in a USA.

  • FC says:

    I have the vintage Le Galion set including Jasmin. This modern rendition seems cleaner and also more modern. I always have high expectations when Mr. Flores is the perfumer. USA

  • mronhubbard says:

    I can tell from Ida’s reviews that I’d love both the vintage and new versions of Le Galion Jasmin. I’ve found many such “big” vintage frags very thrilling, and as for many other vintage lovers, it’s hard for me to love a lot of newer scents in the same way. Since Ida is so pleased by the new version, it gives me hope not just that I’d love this one, but also that it’s possible to do new fragrances or new versions of classics that can make vintage-lovers happy. And Rodrigo’s story of developing the new version was fascinating. Also, it’s good to see that he loves the original version and the world of perfumes generally; it’s not just a job for him. I have not tried any Le Galion scents. (USA)

  • patrick_348 says:

    I am struck by how a perfume called “Jasmine” can have so many other notes. I realize that jasmine is probably still the dominant note, but the presence of so many others gives me a sense of the perfumer’s craft. Flores-Roux sounds very thoughtful and painstaking when he talks about developing the fragrance. And I like the idea of a fragrance that can be “both bright and dark simutaneously.” The only other Le Galion fragrance I have smelled is Sortilege, whcih was on my mom’s dresser for years when I was a kid, although she didn’t wear it much (at least not when I was around) and this is going back some sixty plus years. I live in the US, in North Carolina.

  • Carboytony826 says:

    Ida, thank you for another magnificent review. M. CHABOT thank you for this resurrection. Sr. Flores-Roux, thank you for working the wonderful magic that you possess and bringing new life into this.

    As always, Ida’s absolutely delicious descriptions are the highpoint of the review, and knowing that the original was her mother’s and that she has several vintage flacons just makes it even more special. I’m so happy that thanks to Rodrigo you now know the original notes.

    I think it’s fantastic that Rodrigo still has that purse flacon and I do so enjoy hearing about the journey to get to the final mod of the perfume. It’s wonderful to follow along and watch you recraft this away from that gourmand-esque style into the chypre.

    Thank you to Nicolas pour son générosité.

    USA here

  • lilacdays says:

    I love the little detail of Flores Roux’s grammar teacher who has given him a purse flacon of her perfume. For sure this perfume was very dear to him.
    Being someone always on the lookout for new takes on Jasmine scents and simultaneously a fan of Flores Roux’s work, I can’t wait to try out this perfume.
    Beautifully written piece, bravo!
    Many thanks for this draw, I live in France, EU.

  • Giorgia295 says:

    Love the fact that this parfum is a rivisition of a classic one! At the moment i’m so in love with jasmin note. I already have fleurs d’oranger by lutens, portrayal by amouage and lust by lush. Totally different from each other but I love them equally, and I would for sure try this one with ylang, tuberose,musk and sandal wood! Also love the aesthetic and the bottle, if I could imagine a packaging for my parfum line I would be similar to this one: so chic, minimalist and beautiful to the eyes. Sending love from Milan, Italy

  • santi rc says:

    I have tried many fragrances by maestro Rodrigo and I have several compositions of him. I love his work and this interpretation of Le Galion sounds great. Greetings from Spain

  • Sonbahia says:

    Such a great article Ida! It is so good that old houses don´t die… so many thanks for being resurrected by Creative Director Nicolas Chabot . I have no memory of Le Galion perfumes…. I guess is so difficult to resurrect perfumes with the IFRA regulations, so they are reinterpretations, redevoloped as Ms. Meister says… I love Rodrigo Flores-Roux work: in designer´s fragrances such as John Varvatos or in niche´s ones such as Santi Burgas ( I am partial, becouse I am spanish). Le Galion Jasmin: saline, green and gold floral …what else we can ask to a perfume. It is so interesting the“Behind the Bottle” of Mr. Flores… you feel you are with him in the lab, injecting another life to jasmine… I don´t know how he manage to have time for creating perfumes and being vicepresident of Givaudan!! Kudos to him, Gracias Rodrigo. I live in Spain, EU.

  • Niinocka says:

    I love a comprehensive and multi-faceted approach to presenting fragrances that Ida deploys. An article review about Le Galion Jasmin is not an exception. Ranging from a volatile background story of this eminent fragrance house that succeded to revitalize itself to an in-depth decomposition of the rendition of the original flanker. As much I adored Ida’s marvelously elaborate description of the new composition, I was additionally smitten by Master Parfumer’s insights and sharing his creative process.

    Ida’s presentation of Le Galion Jasmin 2020 is awe-inspiring. Reading about the notes and development, I was transported to a seaside resort somewhere in the south of France in the early summer. An overdose of fruity jasmin amplified with an orange blossom note sounds magnificent combination. Other white flowers that joined the composition seem to provide another layer to the summery and vibrant feel. I was also intrigued by imagining how darker and heavier notes and accords shape the overall scent. According to Ida, they complement floral notes masterfully. And I believe her wholeheartedly. 🙂

    Rodrigo Flores-Roux’s mention of the teacher who wore the original version of the perfume amused me. A few Cafleurebon articles back, another perfumer was reminiscing the experience with a teacher and her perfume. Encountering great smelling fragrances in ‘perfumers-to- be’s formative years has a significant impact on the whole industry in their adulthood. 🙂 I very much enjoyed reading about the olfactive characteristic of ‘Jasmin abolute benzol’ nuance and about using bitter ‘gardenia leaf’ note to maintain lushness and freshness. Another interesting fact for me was that a marine accord was added almost by accident. ‘Behind the Bottle’ offers a rare insight into the reformulation process, which seems to be a tricky venture. Juggling remaining semi-faithful to the tradition and creating your own contemporary signature. However, it seems Rodrigo Flores-Roux was destined to renew the original Jasmin and mastered it stellarly.

    I have been an avid admirer of classic-leaning scents with a contemporary feel, so I am very much intrigued by Le Galion Jasmin. I have not had an opportunity to smell any of Le Galion’s perfumes yet.
    Thanks to Ida for a marvelous piece of writing and to Nicolas Chabot for his generosity.
    I reside in the EU.

  • Fanny_Furgang says:

    I bought Aesthete and Sang blue – it was a blind buy, but they are very good.
    And I’m glad that Le Galion did @jasmine power chypre@ – I love both jasmine and chypres.
    Russia

  • Salem says:

    I am a sucker for white florals, and therefore already the name of this perfume didn’t escape my eye.
    The fact Le Galion Jasmin originates from a stellar vintage perfume already promises a lot about it. Vintage florals simply had such a presence and poise, that they can easily be “sniffed out” of a bunch from a bunch of florals in general. Then again, the contemporary twist Rodrigo Flores -Roux managed to give it, with a “buttery ylang-ylang, fresh Guinean orange and animalic cumin” definitely trigger my interest.
    Something new I have heard from the behind the scenes he so generously shared was the existence of Jasmin absolue benzol. I have never heard about this compound and I will try to sniff and try to detect it in vintage scents from now on.
    I have never tried the Galion house before.
    Writing from Europe.
    Thanks!

  • macaroni023 says:

    How interesting it was to read Rodrigo Flores-Roux comment on how he wanted to create this perfume. The way he explains ingredients and the process of how he pairs and layers them is so interesting, please include more of this in reviews, because it is very exciting to learn about the main idea from the creator. It seems that new Le Galion Jasmin is very complex with very subtle nuances. I recently discovered how much I enjoy narcissus note, so to try this would be a blast. As always thank you, Ida, for good review and a draw. Greetings from Lithuania, EU

  • LindsayK says:

    Fruity, sunshine-y notes by the sea sounds quite lovely, especially for this time of year when so many of us are dreaming of summer days. Really enjoyed reading about the history of this house. Thanks from the US.

  • Michael Prince says:

    What appeals to me about Le Galion Jasmin based on Idas review. Is how this was vintage fragrance recreated along with all their other fragrances after the history of the brand that was temporarily lost and reaurrected. I loved learning about the history of the brand and it’s perfumers. I am glad this brand is back and on top of re-releasing their original fragrances they also have 9 new releases. Master Perfumer Rodrigo Flores Roux was brilliant in recreating the original 1937 Jasmin fragrance. Unfortunately, I haven’t had the opportunity to try any fragrances from Le Galion Perfumes. I am from Ohio, USA.

  • juhah says:

    I don’t know this brand from before, although I might have heard the name somewhere as it’s an old brand. An interesting look behind the scenes on how perfumers navigate constraints set on modern perfumes! Thanks to also Rodrigo Flores Roux for sharing his creative process. I know many perfumes from him, his artistry always comes through. Thank you for the draw, I live in Finland.

  • Lilian says:

    What an amusing presentation (fruity but horselike jasmine! never heard that before)…Ida, you peaked my interest with your description of full sunshine by the edge if the sea. What could be lovelier than that? I have not tried any Le Galion perfumes yet, but Snob, Brumes and L’ Ame Perdue are on my wish list. Now that I know that Mr. Flores-Roux’s skillful hand is involved, I’ll ensure I try out Jasmine as well. How wonderful that this classy house has made a comeback, and how…Many greetings from sunny Greece!

  • wandering_nose says:

    The awe with which Ida talks about the perfume is an unmistakable sign it deserves to be called a masterpiece. Timeless beauty and elegance with some hyper-presence and a breath of youthfulness – this mix sounds simply irresistible. It takes a lot to give a new life and new relevance to an old time classic and it seems like Rodrigo Flores – Roux has executed that masterfully: avoiding the overdose of floral aspects by adding woody chypre nuances and marine accord was the right way to go when tasked with rejuvenating a 1950s perfume. I have not tried any Le Galion perfumes so far. Based in the Republic of Ireland, EU

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thanks for the detailed review Ida. It’s quite interesting to see your review bring out the nuances between the new and old versions. I really enjoyed reading the brief from the perfumer as well because it gives so much insight into the creative process that went into the reserrection of this fragrance.

    I have not had an opportunity to try out Le Galion fragrances before.

    Cheers from WI, USA

  • Jannick85 says:

    It was really interesting to read about the different nuances between the new and old version, and the process of bringing new life to an old creation. And no I have not been lucky eneogh to try anything from the brand yet.
    greetings from Denmark

  • doveskylark says:

    I enjoyed reading about the old house of Le Galion and its resurrection. I would love to try the original. I am sure the modern interpretation, with its narcissus note and marine accord, are a fine match to the original. I look forward to learning more about the offerings from the old house and how they compare to the reworked formulas.
    I live in the USA.

  • Claumarchini says:

    It is always very interesting to read reviews like this, that talk about the history of perfumery in addition to describing a new fragrance. I was not familiar with the Le Galion and it would be wonderful to be able to try Jasmin, that looks like a complex and beautifully crafted creation. Ida’s description made me dream of being outside, in the fresh air but with a lovely warm sun on my face. It felt like finally being free from this very long and difficult winter. Greetings from Italy

  • KateD says:

    I truly enjoyed this article. I usually shiver in dread when I read about reformulation, but I think that when it is done with respect for the history of the fragrance and a love and understanding of the spirit of the ingredients then it can be done well. Thank you for the photos, the interviews, and the history! I’m in the US.

  • Anna Egeria says:

    I wore the vintage LeGalion Jasmin years ago which I found in a Toronto perfume shop. I also wore Tuberose. My mother and aunt wore Sortilege. I look forward to discovering the new rendition of one of my most loved fragrances. I’m in the US and am so sorry I still couldn’t login but didn’t want to miss this draw. Thank you.

  • Brian says:

    I’ve never heard of Le Galion before I read this review. I think that it’s very interesting that this fragrance, which was first made a long time ago, is being brought back. I’m interested in trying it. I thought that it’s interesting how perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux became familiar with this fragrance and how he eventually learned what must’ve caused that fragrance to smell the way that it did. I live in MD., U.S.A.

  • smm13 says:

    I’m always fascinated by how today’s perfumers try to recreate vintage perfumes. The story of Le Galion Jasmin is a fascinating example and I appreciated Ida’s sharing her personal experience. I haven’t tried any from this line, but I’m very intrigued. I live in the USA.

  • Sonia Vargas says:

    Jasmin was given to me by my dejar neighbor on my 15th birthday.I can not forget it’s aroma.Looking forward to a bottle.It will make me feel like 15 again.